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Hi

Having had the lower arm bushes and ball joints replaced I've experienced much improvement.

The light knock over bumps has not gone - although this was not my reason for replacing said bushes and ball joints - they were at or beyond serviceable operation.

I've bought a pair of front roll bar drop links as these are likely to, either be the culprits, or require replacement anyway. (Rock Auto - Premium choice: Proforged at £63 all in for the pair).

Question is:

What are the exact replacement steps? Doesn't look the same as earlier cars...

My 400 is Year 2000 (at 93,000 miles). Bar above bits all original.

Any help and guidance would be much appreciated.

 

 

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While you are in the area check the roll bar bushes. Mine were worn on my GS450H. As a temporary repair I cut the slot "where they go over the bar" to have more clearance then put a piece of plastic about 1/8 th thick under the flat area of the "D" shape. This removed all the play until new bushes could be obtained.

John.

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Iv'e just replaced the drop links on my Celsior and I can't image the process is any different. When you remove the wheel the nuts on the links can be loosened, there may be an allen socket on the end to prevent the ball joint turning as you loosen them, or they could have flat sides for a spanner. When you loosen the nuts you then have to use a jack to raise the lower control arm until there's no pressure on the link, then simply remove it.  

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Thanks to you both...I do have the roll bar bushes...yep and the Allen key have a key and impact version sockets...will use axle stands and my jack...

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Good luck! Have a rumble on my Celsior and am replacing front and rear ARB links and bushes with OEM. Only 43k miles so I suspect the noise may be something else...

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Given the milder weather today here in the tropic of Thames Valley, I set about changing the drop links.

I can get a 17mm socket on the lower nut but even with my electric torque gun and WD40 it won't move. I thought if I could get it moving at all, I would then use a spanner and allen key or bit to hold it. There is very little room for the spanner.

To me it looks like the bottom ball joint etc. has to be dismantled to get proper access

It seemed a bit pointless pondering and fiddling so I drew a halt.

What are the Lexus manual steps for this job?  🥺

 

   

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4 hours ago, Tinonline said:

Given the milder weather today here in the tropic of Thames Valley, I set about changing the drop links.

I can get a 17mm socket on the lower nut but even with my electric torque gun and WD40 it won't move. I thought if I could get it moving at all, I would then use a spanner and allen key or bit to hold it. There is very little room for the spanner.

To me it looks like the bottom ball joint etc. has to be dismantled to get proper access

It seemed a bit pointless pondering and fiddling so I drew a halt.

What are the Lexus manual steps for this job?  🥺

 

   

Can you get some heat to it and penetrating fluid rather than WD-40?  Heat from a small gas torch.  I'm not familiar with the 400 setup, I assumed it would be very similar to the 430 which is easy.

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Invest in a nut splitter, grind it off with an angle grinder, or cut with a hacksaw if you can get  one in there. The links come with new nuts so the old ones are not needed.

John.

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I second the angle grinder suggestion. I did mine a few months ago and getting them off without an angle grinder would've been a nightmare.

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On 12/7/2019 at 7:57 PM, Mo- said:

I second the angle grinder suggestion. I did mine a few months ago and getting them off without an angle grinder would've been a nightmare.

I've recently replaced the front and rear drop links on my LS400 Mk3, the front/rear drop links were not coming off using a spanner and Allen key to remove them properly. I quickly decided that a grinder was the best option but a nut splitter may have worked. From memory there is enough room at the front to get a grinder in safely but I had already removed the wheel arch liners and a lot of other front suspension stuff so with everything still on the car maybe space is more limited.

Just in case you are thinking about doing the rears.The rears were more of a challenge and was awkward to get the grinder in, I finished up cutting through the drop link bar/rod and removing the rear arb to work on off the car (I was replacing the rear arb bushes anyway) piece of cake then to remove that half of the drop link. Plus I removed the rear caliper out of the way because the flexible hose is very very close to where you need to use the grinder on the lower suspension arm to remove the other half of the drop link.

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Thanks for your replies...I might try a nut splitter if it’ll go on...I’d have to remove stuff for a grinder and buy a grinder...I’ll investigate further.👍🙂

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