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HELP needed, oil filter impossible to remove.


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Hi.

Firstly, the cat was stolen, now the damn oil filter will not budge.

Took it to Lexus in Stockport last year for a service, decided this year to do it myself.

Took the front under shield off (easy as it had only 4 bolts in it, all tight and rusted in), used chain filter removal tool, nothing and started to collapse the filter. Tried Stillsons, nothing, resorted to screwdriver through the canister method, absolutely solid.

I have complete hundreds of oil filter changes and have never encountered such a stubborn/tight oil filter, I'm wondering how long it's been on or why it was torqued so tight?

Now have a holed squashed and welded in oil filter, any ideas?

 

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Blimey it looks like you need my gas flange grips, it may be worth trying to warm the filter up with a hair dryer..this should soften the rubber seal and allow it to release.

Probably didn’t smear the seal with fresh oil and more than hand tightened when fitted!

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The problem with using any conventional type of filter removal tool (or the heavy screwdriver through the filter which I admit to using in desperation on one occasion), is that you are attempting to twist on the thin weak part of the filter. 

Faced with this situation and due to what is almost certainly an alloy housing, I would be careful about using a drift to start the filter turning at it's stronger threaded end, although this could be tried  by careful tapping.

What you do it down to you but this is what I would look at.  Firstly, I would look at the replacement filter you bought which is presumably the same at the one installed.  I have not yet had the (dubious pleasure ?), of removing a Lexus oil filter but if it is the usual screw in kind found on most cars, the thread in plate is surrounded by holes through which oil passes.  This plate is the strongest part of the filter.  If it is possible to access this plate by drilling, dremelling, miniature saw or chiselling, away the filter body and taking care to avoid threaded projection, it might be possible to turn this plate by having  a couple of bolts secured into a bar.  This would work like a bigger version of an angle grinder key to turn the plate which only needs a slight amount of movement to free off.  If using this method, care would also have to be taken to avoid any other projections from the alloy housing.  Clearly, after removal, all debris should be sucked out and the area well cleaned.  I would not attempt this method where the filter is mounted at an angle where swarf would fall in the engine.

Using a three pronged tool as has been linked to is better if the prongs can get purchase at the top and there is room to twist.  However, sometimes the filter it too long to enable this so it might be necessary to make the filter shorter by cutting in some way to enable reach to that critical high point of the filter.

Good luck and let us know what works for you.

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Hi.

Thank you for the comments, will attempt cutting back the outer casing to gain access to the tapping base plate that has the oil flow holes.

Will update regarding progress, ie, rolled car into the canal, in A and E with deep cuts to hands or to throat, filter came off or gave up and wandered off into the distance.

Regards.

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26 minutes ago, P Wright said:

Hi.

Thank you for the comments, will attempt cutting back the outer casing to gain access to the tapping base plate that has the oil flow holes.

Will update regarding progress, ie, rolled car into the canal, in A and E with deep cuts to hands or to throat, filter came off or gave up and wandered off into the distance.

Regards.

Possibly penetrating spray over the seal edge. Could be bone dry rubber seal like Steve2006 says heat welded on. I have had a few ‘crushed can’ run ins. Getting as close to the base plate for rotation is the key. Don’t attempt one of my out of frustration hammering a screwdriver through the body to end up making a can opener. Lol

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Drill a hole at the bottom of the filter so the oil is drained.

Heat the filter well enough with a propelene flame and then use a chisel to tap it free. Repeat the process until it breaks free.

 Chris

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too late now but you can buy the proper filter wrench with the correct amount of flats for very little money . I have one for each of the cars I own ........... SC filter is 73mm 14 flats OEM 

1 hour ago, Mihanicos said:

Drill a hole at the bottom of the filter so the oil is drained.

Heat the filter well enough with a propelene flame and then use a chisel to tap it free. Repeat the process until it breaks free

This is probably your best course of action !

SC 7314.png

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Hi.

All done!

Had to take of the oil catcher off to gain access to the filter proper, only 3 bolts, tried WD40 on the seal, hammer and screwdriver at the base of the filter then chain wrench and job done (so am I).

Thanks to everyone that offered suggestions and support, it’s appreciated.

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Well done! rubber seals tends to swell over time so filters should only be done up fairly lightly hand tight. If you use removal tool to install the chances are you will overtighten making the filter difficult to remove in due course.  It is also important to lightly oil the seal to stop it binding up as the filter is screwed on.

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19 hours ago, rich1068 said:

I ended up getting one of these for a particularly tricky filter. As you know by now it's idiots over tightening.

I started using the same removal tool, then I found K&N oil filters that have a hex on the end. Hallelujah!

 

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