Battery Meter

[Niraj]

I'm a little concerned with what the Battery meter is reading...

this is where my needle sits at idle after 3 minutes of light reving.

Please let me know if this is correct

(PS: before i start the engine and have the ignition 'ON', the voltmeter reads a little bit above 9v )

[Fidgits]

yep, thats right...

[Bazza]

whilst the Battery is being charged ie: with engine running it should read 13.8v

with no load it should read 12v

as you have to turn the ignition on to read the dial: thus applying a load, it should show just below 12v with engine not running

:D

[postie]

I'm a little concerned with what the battery meter is reading...

this is where my needle sits at idle after 3 minutes of light reving.

Please let me know if this is correct 

(PS: before i start the engine and have the ignition 'ON', the voltmeter reads a little bit above 9v  )

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supposed to be 12v? which is what it reads

[Niraj]

i thought that the charging rate was 14.4v ? I dont know where i've got that figure from, its just always been in my head at that number.

Anyhow, when i flick the ignition to ON but not turn the engine over, its just a tad bit above the 9v mark... and can sometimes struggle to fire up the engine, sometimes 4 full cranks of the starter.

i'm really thinking my Battery is knackered, cos even after long drives, the 12v charge doesn't stay in the cell for too long...

do you lot think the same?

[Bazza]

i thought that the charging rate was 14.4v ? I dont know where i've got that figure from, its just always been in my head at that number.

Anyhow, when i flick the ignition to ON but not turn the engine over, its just a tad bit above the 9v mark... and can sometimes struggle to fire up the engine, sometimes 4 full cranks of the starter.

i'm really thinking my battery is knackered, cos even after long drives, the 12v charge doesn't stay in the cell for too long...

do you lot think the same?

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the alternator puts out a 14.4v charge

a Battery is a 6 cell with 2.3v/cell

not sure where the meter actually reads from ! cant believe it would be that acurate though

as long as you can start your car, why worry :D

[andrewxsi]

Are you pushing the accelerator down when starting? If you are dont. just turn the key and it should fire up 1st turn every time. If you are concerned, buy a new Battery as in the winter as you know your lights, heated seats, heater, rear demister will all be on more.

Andrew.

[eXOBeX]

Sounds like your battery's got two dead cells. Go buy a new one before it leaves you stranded.

[Niraj]

Sounds like your battery's got two dead cells.  Go buy a new one before it leaves you stranded.

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I really do think so too :(

[MrADeveci]

Mine is the same ............

[squarehead]

Mine's always read at the same position as yours!!! Even from new!

This is right isn't it? Garage have never mentioned it.

[eXOBeX]

Love the avatar, squarehead!

Put a meter across your Battery terminals (set it to VOLTS not AMPS, otherwise you'll nuke the meter and burn your hands on its cables), you should be getting at least 12 volts without the engine running. For every 2 volts you're down, that's probably a knackered cell (pop off the cell caps and look for buckled plates).

Dead cells are likely to be doubly bad because if, for example, you've got two cells that are effectively short-circuited, you're charging an 8 volt Battery from a charging circuit meant for 12 volts, and the cells won't like that at all. If the Battery explodes, you won't like it either.

[Brettster]

My car doesnt even have a volt meter :(

but in my last IS I had the same problems , taking a few turns to start, then it died when i had the dome light on for around an hour and i was stuck

new Battery made a huge difference to starting and lights not dimming as much when using things in the car such as windows or heated seats.

for what a new Battery costs. its well worth it.

[BernardTamHK]

get a new Battery dude .... it always fails at a time when u need ur car the most (or extremely late for work).... u can hear the pain in my voice ... ;)

[Niraj]

While we're on the subject of a new batter then, how about a few recommendations for an OEM size but deep cycle uprated Battery, to fit in the tray and inside the black plastic casing??

is Fargo's deep cycle exide Battery the same size as the original?

[Colin P]

pretty much, I have the Exide (although branded as a Deta) you just have to stick something under it to make it higher so you can clamp it down

[smyggy]

I'm a little concerned with what the battery meter is reading...

this is where my needle sits at idle after 3 minutes of light reving.

Please let me know if this is correct 

(PS: before i start the engine and have the ignition 'ON', the voltmeter reads a little bit above 9v  )

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That meter is reading approximately 13.5 volts at idle (halfway between 12 and 15), which the previous poster said it should do (13.8v). It is fine.

[jasestu]

That meter is reading approximately 13.5 volts at idle (halfway between 12 and 15), which the previous poster said it should do (13.8v). It is fine.

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I've always thought that those 1.5/3 volt divisions were a dumb idea. Great way to confuse some people...

[Niraj]

That meter is reading approximately 13.5 volts at idle (halfway between 12 and 15), which the previous poster said it should do (13.8v). It is fine.

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I've always thought that those 1.5/3 volt divisions were a dumb idea. Great way to confuse some people...

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if you think the division on the Battery gauge is bad, have you seen the petrol gauge, lol :D

the design is brilliant, but the mathematics is mayhem

[Parthiban]

Seems ok, but the car should start easily. Only times mine struggles a bit is if its very cold and I haven't used it for a few days

if you think the division on the battery gauge is bad, have you seen the petrol gauge, lol  :D

the design is brilliant, but the mathematics is mayhem 

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I always thought the petrol gauge was quite accurate!! :winky:

[Mr Morse]

I doubt that either of the gauges have been designed to show an absolute value, more to warn the driver of any problems. Nevertheless the scales are terrible!

[jasestu]

I doubt that either of the gauges have been designed to show an absolute value, more to warn the driver of any problems. Nevertheless the scales are terrible!

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You're correct there. The oil pressre gauge too - it takes ages to get up to pressure, if it's reflecting reality then my engine is poked!

[Niraj]

I doubt that either of the gauges have been designed to show an absolute value, more to warn the driver of any problems. Nevertheless the scales are terrible!

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You're correct there. The oil pressre gauge too - it takes ages to get up to pressure, if it's reflecting reality then my engine is poked!

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do you think the speedometer might be "out" too?

[aido]

The speedo reads approx + 5/10% Niraj, never minus so they can't get in trouble.... You see it illustrated when you compare the speedo to a GPS device...

As for the oil pressure I don't have one of those - you don't mean the temperature do you? Maybe that's why it takes a while to get up there.....

[Niraj]

The speedo reads approx + 5/10% Niraj, never minus so they can't get in trouble.... You see it illustrated when you compare the speedo to a GPS device...

As for the oil pressure I don't have one of those - you don't mean the temperature do you? Maybe that's why it takes a while to get up there.....

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:D cheers dude...

btw: i think he was probably referring to the temperature gauge, cos mine doesn't have pressure either.