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Best Oil For Is200 Sport


IZZZY
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Guys,

i want to change the oil on my is200 this weekend.. as i want to avoid the tappets tapping...some mornings it takes a few seconds for the car to start...possibly the oil getting to the engine..

mechanic said an oil change will be good to avoid any tappet issues..is this correct?

finally what is the best oil to use...

- firstly best for the longevity of the engine?

- secondly to avoid tappet issues?

thanks in advance gents..

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nope no tappets it has buckets and they are self adjusting and on start up most cars will be slightly noisyer as it takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure,as for the oil i use 5/30 fully synthetic and change my oil and filter every 3,500miles the reason coz it's free!!!! B) B)

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My recommendation would be Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 5W - 30.

Changed mine recently to the Silkolene took it for a good hard drive a couple of weeks later and the engine performance was the best it has ever been.

I also notice the car starts so quick when the temp is low but then again so did the last oil.

My last oil was Amsoil 5W - 30 which was a very good oil also.

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My recommendation would be Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 5W - 30.

Changed mine recently to the Silkolene took it for a good hard drive a couple of weeks later and the engine performance was the best it has ever been.

I also notice the car starts so quick when the temp is low but then again so did the last oil.

My last oil was Amsoil 5W - 30 which was a very good oil also.

you noticed an actual difference after the oil change?? really?? :question:

i didnt think an oil change would make a considerable difference in the performance of the engine :-S

where and how much did yours cost Abbas?

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My recommendation would be Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 5W - 30.

Changed mine recently to the Silkolene took it for a good hard drive a couple of weeks later and the engine performance was the best it has ever been.

I also notice the car starts so quick when the temp is low but then again so did the last oil.

My last oil was Amsoil 5W - 30 which was a very good oil also.

you noticed an actual difference after the oil change?? really?? :question:

i didnt think an oil change would make a considerable difference in the performance of the engine :-S

where and how much did yours cost Abbas?

I noticed a difference when I first switched to fully synthetic 5w - 30 before that i let the garage put in the recommended oil. I put a stop to this when I found out they used cheap 10w - 40 mineral oil.

The main reason for using these oils was for better engine protection.

The Silkolene for me made a difference, it is a very good oil. The engine was smoother and sounded so nice, I had an enjoyable drive exploring the cars limits.

Personally I would expect a difference after renewing old dirty oil for new especially if its of a very high quality like the Silkolene ester synthetic.

I bought mine from Opie Oils for £44.99 inc delivery.

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Thanks Abbas

do you happen to know.. or anyone else for that matter...how this compares to for e.g. Castrol GTX Magnetic fully synthetic??

i will be buying oil in the next couple of days so would appreciate your tips..

i know the Fuchs cost a lot more... Castrol is around £25 from Halfords.

ta

You get what you pay for Izzy, for the sake of £20 I would rather go for the Fuchs. I am no oil expert, only know from my own experiences and research.

I have used the magnatec on my second car this year and cant complain.

The Lexus just gets the best I can afford!

TBH any good oil, correct viscosity and if it meets the engine requirements stated in the manual will do the job. If your like me and notice the slightest difference in your car and want the very best protection & perfomance then go for the Silkolene.

Hopefully you will have some more opinions on the way, hope this helps...

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If you're looking at Castrol then you'll want the Edge 5w30. It's the same price as Fuchs though. Should be good for 10K+. The Magnatec should still be changed every 6K I would say.

Have you guys seen this oil test done in Australia?

&
Interesting results...

I use Edge in mine as I get it cheap through work & will continue to use it after seeing this.

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If you're looking at Castrol then you'll want the Edge 5w30. It's the same price as Fuchs though. Should be good for 10K+. The Magnatec should still be changed every 6K I would say.

Have you guys seen this oil test done in Australia?

Interesting results...

I use Edge in mine as I get it cheap through work & will continue to use it after seeing this.

interesting... im in 2 minds..cant decide between the fuchs or the Castrol edge :-S

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I wouldnt pay too much attention to the test, of course and Aussie oil will win an Aussie test :) The Castrol used in that test is called the Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30, we dont get that here in the UK but it could well be the same as the Castrol Edge 5w-30 we currently have.

Cheers

Guy

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I wouldnt pay too much attention to the test, of course and Aussie oil will win an Aussie test :) The Castrol used in that test is called the Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30, we dont get that here in the UK but it could well be the same as the Castrol Edge 5w-30 we currently have.

Cheers

Guy

Hi Guy,

i called your earlier (i think it was you i spoke with) re my lexus is200 and the Fuchs top of the range oil...

I will be placing an order on your site very soon..

can you possibly send me the linkl to the Fuchs Silikon S 5w 30 oil.. ? i could not find it anywhere on the site :-(

ta

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just come off the phone to lexus - they advise that the car be run on a 5w 30semi synthetic oil.. as the climate in this country suits it fine.. we dont have extreme hot or cold weather..

also mentioned if the car has had semi synthetic all its life then switching to a fully synthetic can be damaging to the engine !?!?! would u guys agree?

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just come off the phone to lexus - they advise that the car be run on a 5w 30semi synthetic oil.. as the climate in this country suits it fine.. we dont have extreme hot or cold weather..

also mentioned if the car has had semi synthetic all its life then switching to a fully synthetic can be damaging to the engine !?!?! would u guys agree?

I would agree on the grade of oil, but not with the bit about changing to the synthetic. That's pretty much nonsense. Most garages will only use a mineral or semi synthetic oil for servicing, to keep costs down, so that would mean that all cars that have been serviced by a garage and followed the schedule to keep their warranty couldn't use a synthetic oil, even though it's a better lubricant. When you say you have just got of the phone to Lexus, was that a dealership, or Lexus UK? A dealership would tell you that as they want you to keep coming back to them and if they don't have the synthetic oil, they can't really help you out. Also they advise to use lower quality oils so things wear out more often and you come back for repairs or a new car when you are out of warranty. If it was Lexus UK you spoke to, I have no idea where they would have got that from. Did whoever it was give a reason?

Here is the Silkolene Pro S 5w-30 you asked about

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60169-silkolen...ce-engines.aspx

And here are the rest of the 5w-30's we have

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx

The Redline and Motul 300V are in the same league as the Silkolene. The Motul X-Max is a really good alternative that's a bit cheaper.

Cheers

Tim

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hi mate,

it was the Reading dealership that i spoke with... and i just cross referenced the info these guys provided with the Oxford Lexus... they both said the same thing..

its not advisable at all to move from a car that always had semi synthetic to fully synthetic as this will damage certain components within the engine... (apologies...as im not techniocal enough to remember what it will actually affect)

so there we have it.,.. im more confused than before... lol

although i spoke of whether if the engine was flushed and then the fully synthetic put in... he said this would take most of the old oil out so would be better...

thoughts?

Abbas - earlier in this thread you mentioned moving to fully synthetic silkolene (which is what i want to do) - can i ask.. was your car running on semi synthetic before you started with the fully synthetic stuff...did you have to flush the engine out? do anything extra before the oil change? the last thing i want is to change the oil with the intention of improving engine and ending up with more damage... thats a no no..

REALLY appreciate your advice..oilman and Abbas and everyone else..

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Hi IZZY,

I switched straight from mineral oil to fully synthetic, all we did is oil and filter (inc sump washer) changed.

The best bit is, like I have mentioned before I could feel the difference after.

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Hi IZZY,

I switched straight from mineral oil to fully synthetic, all we did is oil and filter (inc sump washer) changed.

The best bit is, like I have mentioned before I could feel the difference after.

thanks Abbas - great to hear.

quick one and forgive me for my lack of knowledge...so mineral oil.. was that like semi synthetic??

based on your advice and oil mans advice.. i will go ahead and move on to silkoline 5w 30 :-)

i guess a engine flush will be a good idea...ofcourse will change the oil filter.

ta

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also mentioned if the car has had semi synthetic all its life then switching to a fully synthetic can be damaging to the engine !?!?! would u guys agree?

I found the answer to this in popular mechanics

Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print — a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.

Hey.. I'm also looking to change my oil n ii also lacked knowledge & dont know much on this topic... but I'm looking to go 10w-40 semi synthetic living in London... is that ok :question:
That will be fine but a fully synthetic oil will be better, especially if you do a lot of short trips.
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Hi IZZY,

I switched straight from mineral oil to fully synthetic, all we did is oil and filter (inc sump washer) changed.

The best bit is, like I have mentioned before I could feel the difference after.

thanks Abbas - great to hear.

quick one and forgive me for my lack of knowledge...so mineral oil.. was that like semi synthetic??

based on your advice and oil mans advice.. i will go ahead and move on to silkoline 5w 30 :-)

i guess a engine flush will be a good idea...ofcourse will change the oil filter.

ta

Good choice you wont regret it!

Mineral oil is not semi synthetic it is what I like to call standard oil.

I am not too keen on engine flush and would not reccommend it, i guess it depends how your engine has been maintained in the past. A regular oil and filter change is good enough in my opinion.

the

Oh and dont forget to change sump washer gasket.

Let us know how you get on...

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also mentioned if the car has had semi synthetic all its life then switching to a fully synthetic can be damaging to the engine !?!?! would u guys agree?

I found the answer to this in popular mechanics

Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print — a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.

Hey.. I'm also looking to change my oil n ii also lacked knowledge & dont know much on this topic... but I'm looking to go 10w-40 semi synthetic living in London... is that ok :question:
That will be fine but a fully synthetic oil will be better, especially if you do a lot of short trips.

ok fully synthetic is betta.. buh wa if i stayd with semi synthetic it wnt do ne damage will it?? coz its cheaper n 2 b honest i onli drive d car lik twice a week...

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