Geoffers

Mine was the maf sensor. It seemed like it was only when it was cold as it was quite intermittent, but I think because the engine holds back until it is warm, it was a lot more noticeable, throwing me off the trail. Anyway, cleaned mine and it went better so I just had it replaced.

I just want to say thanks to people who've donated anonymously. Thanks again peeps, walk next week.

I don't know what to say. People have been so very generous. I honestly didn't expect donations of that much! Thank you all so very much. Some have donated without replying here so thank you too. It really does mean a lot to me and of course, it will help so many people. Thank you

Hi folks, Many of the longer term residents here will know me quite well and the help I've given on the electronics side. Now its my turn for a small favour. I never blather on about charities normally but this one is close to my heart. I'm not that active on the boards now as most of you know I've had trouble with my Cancer for many years now. My mother and more recently my sister have died from it. A lot of money goes towards cancer research which is great, but the reality is we are still very far away and help is needed for those terminally ill patients in Hospices, or under the hospice help but at home. My gratitude to the hospice is un-ending. They arrange equipment to your home and any sort of support you can imagine. They show so much dedication. I remember one old guy who was ill and went blind before he died. The staff would just sit there talking to him, holding his hand. There's loads of examples I could give that's just part of their commitment to what they do. They help so much with pain control, taking away so much of the agony and bad affects of the stage people are at. Nothing is too much trouble - even a meal in the middle of the night. They even support families and arrange pretty much anything that is related. They organise days out and all sorts of activities. Unfortunately they have to rely on fundraising and donations. I'm just doing a little midnight walk of 6 miles in memory of my sister and mother in order to raise money for the Woodlands Hospice. Could those I've helped (and not asked for a penny) donate something to the hospice? I'm only asking for a couple of quid, less than it probably cost me to help at the time (I used to spend a fortune on postage let alone components, phone calls, etc. for people!) Maybe just skip a coffee or a pint and donate instead? I'm really asking everyone - even those that don't know me just in case you can help. It is the end of life for people. It has be be as nice and comfortable as possible. You can donate -HERE- by credit card or paypal. The picture on there is in memory of Janine, my sister who has recently died. I would be ever so grateful and it will help so many people. Thank you, Geoff

You are right, 43mA is nothing. Congratulations on your new one! How often has it been dead since the battery and alternator replacement? How far are your journeys? The starter does take a lot out of a battery and in cold weather they aren't as efficient at charging and lose charge quite quickly. You would have to be making quite a few small journeys for that to have such an impact though, and so frequently too. It does seem like something is draining the battery. Do you know anyone with a peak flow meter? Leave one on for a hour or so and see what it peaks at. It may be something sticking that is switching in when you've left the car for a while. (Like when the vents close a few minutes after you've switched off). If you've not got a peak meter, the only option is the watch a normal ammeter for a little while. (not troo bad if you can park near a window - lay it on the sill so you can see it and go inside) Make sure you tape down the bonnet switch so you can set the alarm to properly test a locked up condition. The alarm doesn't activate until you've left the car for a while. If there is something taking a lot of current, the easiest way to identify it is to remove the fuses one by one and it will at least help you identify the circuit involved.

On the Is250, the satnav audio control is internal to the headunit itself, unlike the 200 that used a relay to switch in the audio to the front right speaker. As the bluetooth uses the same internal switching (It actually overrides the SATNAV audio) then my guess is the headunit itself is faulty, especially as you say the receiver can't hear you either. You may be lucky and its simply connector LP2 not in properly but I assume you/Lexus have checked it. If you pop off the cover of the cab lights, you should see the mic inside. (There are also two alarm sensors so ignore those) I'm really surprised at it being a retro-fit too as that is one big job involving security and all sorts.

Its 5 posts up! I posted it here 19th Nov.

Here you go. Due to ill health I don't offer support on this anymore. It is a tried and tested circuit and performs fine prividing you follow the instructions carefully. Enjoy Mirror closure full circuit and install

The problem you have with doing that is that when the circuit side of the relay becomes powered by the circuit, the relay will act as a resistor and there will be a potential difference to the ecu. This is because the ECU's negative is "floating" and not in respect to the body earth (which is why you don't get continuity to earth when you tested it) and could cause an issue. You wouldn't like to let the magic smoke out of your ecu in 3 weeks time. You would be better wiring straight across the device but have a diode in series with the relay. This will make sure all the points stay at the correct levels, and only allow current to pass one way. You can actually buy polarised relays, but they are a bit more expensive and not as well stocked. Absolutely put a fuse inline with all equipment you are adding. Here the diode is inline, and I've drawn it with pos/neg flowing in that direction, so the relay will actuate. Putting the voltage the opposite way, nothing will happen and no current will flow across the relay.

Rubbish. Its an active head unit. The AMP controls the volume, fader, bass, treble, etc. through the TX+/- multiplex from the front controls of the HU. The HU is the audio source and controller only. Nothing to do with the L/R bass, volume, etc. at that level - the level and equalisation is constant at this point. Try it. That also how the third party aux units work. Jemforts, your best bet is to either break into the lines, or get a GROM if you aren't too happy with doing this.

Steve's answered your questions and thrown the diodes in to boot - you can't get better than that! If you are putting it in a small waterproof project box, that's ideal. You could take it a stage further and fill the box with potting compound (a resin that sets solid) but that's going a bit far. You'll probably not need the heat shrink tubing as you would form a 'V' shape with the diodes coming off so the wires at the ends on the diodes won't touch but you can never be too safe so its always a good idea. <Boring bit.> Yes you are right, the diodes don't need to be of high current at all. 1n4007 are very common, cheap and reliable. The 1n4001-4007 range are all quite similar but the 4007 has the highest spec for reverse voltages, etc. (ideal in a car were there is the odd spike). They handle up to 1A which your relay coil obviously is nowhere near. The 1n4007g is the same in operation. The G ratings are becoming more mainstream due to mass production. The G mean it is glass passivated meaning the semiconductor surfaces are protected against mechanical and chemical penetration by melted-on glass layers. <End boring bit>

As that stands, it look you are just powering each relay coil from the supply. As that's the case for each relay, they are isolated so no need - you won't be backfeeding anywhere. This circuit will work fine. You could remove a relay though and make it a little smaller. Are these lighting circuit negative different from the cars other grounds? Some ECU switched lighting is. If not, you can do the same circuit with two diodes and a single relay. If they are normal earths, you will just be using the positive from each circuit to trigger. Check continuity to earth from the negatives. If they are the same, you can build the circuit below. It allows current to pass through the relay but not return to the other circuit as it hits the other side of the relay. The same goes for the other side. 1n4007 diodes are coppers to but. Steve - yes, 1n4007.

Hello mate, I've not been in a position to do much but will look into it and dig out my diagrams. Do you just want it switched, say from a relay or something from another system or are you looking to disable it altogether? If you are needing it controlled immediately you could bodge together a relay that just presses the keyfob within the car to do you for now. I'm assuming you have one in anyway for the remote start?

Stav, Add this to a relay/transistor output on your digi rev counter towards a higher led output for autolock.... you could connect the same circuit to the speed sensor pulse then trigger at a point. It was something I was looking at using the speed sensor but haven't got around to it yet.

The neatest, most secure and reliable way is to Cut, slide heatshrink tubing on, bare the copper and join your second wire on. Slide the heatshrink back and seal. OR You could cut the cable, use bullet connector plugs and get a four way receiver: OR Use push connectors: You can get these from CPC. HERE They are only 18p each and support up to 24A OR Use a twist on wire connector like these: Again from CPC, HERE this is the 8.6mm version so just get smaller if you need to There is much debate over soldering wires within cars when joining rather than just "bare jointing". Because of the mechanical movement of the vehicle the wires can become brittle at the point where the solder is. Jointed wires aren't soldered in am aircraft for this reason. I've done both and not had a problem but I can see the reasoning.

Its a little vague regarding the origins of your different circuits so you will need to make sure either circuit doesn't end up back feeding the other circuit if you see what I mean. This could be a hazard or even damaging to the switching circuit if it comes from an ECU. I would put a diode inline of both circuits just to prevent this.

Nah mate, SECA was hacked a long time before that :winky: SKY *has* been hacked but the people responsible are wisely keeping it to themselves for their own use. BskyB has a long arm and a big legal team. you could even end up dead. There's a lot at stake and is really is quite dangerous. Any gains could be more than offset by the consequences which would follow. There will probably be card change towards APR/MAY. They really need to change as soon as possible.

I doubt it too. The labour costs will be horrendous even if they did, let alone the parts cost at standalone rates. It would work out cheaper to trade your car in and get another.

Happy Birthday Parthiban. :yahoo: :yahoo:

Had some good laughs today - cheers guys.

For puddle lights, I think they should be hidden and only shine in a set area. TBH mate, they do look chavvy. You might as well go the whole hog and stick these to your doors. They even with passive sensors for other people too:

Manually run WAB, highlight then drag all the vcf's across. The only issue is that it wants you to say OK but you can keep your finger on the enter key and it will fly through them. Then you can then export as a csv and then import wherever you want. Other than that, you could script it in VB.

I think the only option now is to physically trace were the cable goes and its actual connection points in between. This has to be something silly. Because the relay only needs a few mA to activate, damp could still be doing this if it is pooled. If I get to the Midlands meet and the weather is ok we should take a good look. (And a million photo's of possibles for other people with slightly different causes, but the same fault)

There is obviously something putting a negative trigger on that line. If you unplug the ECU do the lights stay on?

It depends entirely on the tracker and the contract with it. What type tracker and what contract? If the finance company own the tracker contract in their name, and it is of the type you log onto their website and see where the vehicle is at any time then yes. Even if they don't own the contract but had the details, if they are a bit naughty they could be watching anyway. Some track mileage using this method too.