Exdee

No issue. The tyre wall will protrude out slightly more on the rear. If anything it will protect your alloy wheel.

On cold starts the engine is turned on as soon as you switch the car on. :)

You can buy a lot of fuel for the amount of money it will cost you to find a car which has comparable spec and refinement. :) But It shouldn't feel heavy. Check your handbrake too. If it's too tight, it will hold you back.

Grey ISF - Took the 7:50 ferry from Calais to Dover today. It was parked in front of me inside the ferry. I noticed it but didn't really take much interest. That is until we hit the M20 and started messing around.. :) 5 digit number plate - I think it either started with E8 or K8.

Recent thread below whereby gentlemen had same issue. He's driving on! I would be very surprised if the car needs to be scrapped just because the hybrid element is not working properly. Link

Just thought I would share; Took both calipers off today to re grease the slider pins as it has been a year. One caliper was fit by Lexus Croydon and greased by them. I had re-greased the other calliper with ceratec myself. The caliper that was fit by Lexus was sticking and the grease was bone dry. It was difficult to remove what was left of the grease. I did not take the pads out. Just removed the top bolt and moved the caliper to a side to inspect. I used ceratec in moderation so that i could slide the caliper back on without having to recess the piston. Using excessive grease creates a vacuum inside the rubber seal. The caliper that had been greased with ceratec was free like it had been greased yesterday. I did remove it to regrease it but thinking about it now it probably wasn't necessary. So yeah as i found out, the caliper may not be a bad design after all. You just need to use the right grease. I also noticed that the new caliper had a slightly different design. The rubber seal that covers the slider pin was shorter than the other one but of much better quality. It was also 'loose' than the other one so could probably take a lot more grease than the other one.

Sure if you insist. Although he specifically mentions turning the engine off, returning and then finding that the mirrors are not in the correct position... Press and hold the memory position on the door card and then press lock or unlock on the remote. You should hear a beep and it should be good to go.

I think this is probably the case of the memory function. Your mirrors are set on one of the presets and locking/unlocking the car resets your manual adjustments. Next time you adjust your mirrors to the position you want them to be press 'set' and then press '1' on the door card. That should hopefully fix it. You can disable this feature too. The procedure is somewhere in the manual.

Web Hosting is cheap as chips these days. It's not a good excuse. :)

Self explanatory really. The MOT testers put this on now to cover themselves. It's not an advisory per se.

Yeah, I used it on the sliding pins, the clips that the pads slide on, on the inside of the shims and a slight dab around the piston inside the caliper. You will spend most of your time jacking the car up, removing the caliper and carrier, trying to break free any seized components and removing rust (hope not!!). The lubing only take a minute so I would say it's probably a 1. :)

I think the OEM grease from Lexus is not up for the job either based on how the calipers still keep seizing even after alleged improvements in design. I would recommend using something like the Pagid/Mintex Ceratec which, if you read up on it is an entirely different approach to lubricant for brakes. It's more of a gel than a grease. I used it when I serviced my brakes last year and no problems so far.

Good stuff, it is very elaborate. Torque specs are as follows for those who are anal about these: - Carrier to Hub - 79 Nm - Caliper to Carrier - 34 Nm Installing a new caliper is also a good opportunity to paint it. Otherwise, it won't be long before it starts to look like the previous one.

I found the horizontal adjustment. It is there next to the vertical one, deeper towards the wing and very difficult to photograph. I think the adjustment is connected to what can be best described as 'the AFS mechanism' so if ones car does not have AFS then I suspect it won't have horizontal adjustment either.

I only did vertical. I was under the impression horizontal was not possible. I don't fancy taking the engine covers off but I am tempted to have a look to see if I can find it!

Very easy to do. I've done it various times. Link Bear in mind, the more you increase the height, the more foreground lighting you will loose so don't go crazy otherwise you won't be able to see the potholes and blind oncoming traffic too!

He must have hit his head on the bonnet. That damage is probably from his helmet. Very scary indeed. I hope everything is resolved to your satisfaction.

LFA!!! Here I come.. Thanks Neil for letting us know.

If it's seized in the position it is in when your foot is off the brake pedal, then you probably won't notice while driving unless you brake hard in which case the car should nose dive as it's just the fronts that are working. It it's seized in the position is it in when your foot is on the brake pedal, then there should be a burning smell/excessive heat/smoke. If it's sticking then you may hear a noise when you lift your foot off the brake pedal, as the specific caliper will not be released immediately like the rest.

The prices are not that bad in the US to be honest. I think in UK they are trying to recover the cost of all the free engine rebuilds they have done the IS220's... :D

This is like the 5th thread you've created for the same issue. I've lost the plot now. lol Clips will not make the pedal soft. If there is an issue with the clips, they will only warp you discs as braking won't be even. They are only available from the dealer and cost about £75!! Soft pedal is usually air in the system. Did you bleed the brakes?

Agree with the post above. You need hubcentric spacers with a PCD of 114.3 and a center bore of 60.1mm. If you google around, the use of spacers has a lot of hate on most forums. If upgrading to 18" just go for a more aggressive offset and get rid of the spacer.

If there is a dealer nearby just pop in and ask for a quote. They will give you a printed sheet with the part number on it.

A starting point would be to ask the dealer for part number and then search for it online.

This was mine at 15mm Front and 20mm Rear. I think 10mm Front and 15mm Rear would have done the trick too. H&R and Eibach have a good reputation but you don't really need to get them if it's just for a short period of time.