ROYT

Look on top behind the disc.......you should see the sensor wires going to a plug and socket. Thats whats on my series two anyway!

Me too,any oil in diff.? Usually HP High pressure gear oil 80 or 90 , smells like cat pee!.....is the right stiuff in ?

I looked in the w/shop manual and there is about 100 pages of info on the auto box, most of it technically hair raising. This one point might be worth a look.. Neutral start switch The neutral start switch detects the shift lever position and sends signals to the ECU. The ECU receives signals - R, NSW,2 and L- from the neutral start switch. When the signal is NOT sent to the ECU from the neutral start switch, the ECU judges that the shift lever is in the D range. Is this why it drives forward in N ?? Clutching at straws here......I have series two.......

If you start in L and change gear manually do they operate correctly? Is the overdrive on/off light flashing?

If it drives forward in neutral, has the gear lever itself slipped or something and you have lost a position in the 'gate'?

From the w/shop manual :winky:

The wipers have ECU control . Its high up under the cover under the instrument panel near or on the brake pedal bracket. It looks like removing the wiper motor and testing it with 12 volts to see if it operates, to eliminate it or blame it.. There are two motors one is called the wiper angle motor If you can get at the wiper motor plug and disconnect it you can test the motor with 12volts. Round plug for wiper motor shaped [square-ish] for angle motor Hope this of some use!! :duh:

Are the wipers faulty in every position of the switch e.g. no intermittent, no wash /wipe etc.?

Pad wear indicators are the 'wear through' type to create an open circuit. If any of these are worn through or broken......light on! :winky:

If not brake fluid level, check for a break in the pad wear sensor wires

Have you checked all door courtesy are not stuck? Just a guess :duh:

The cruise has self diagnosis system, the whole thing is extremely complex,ecu control etc. 30 pages of info. Just try these fuses for a start 'Dome fuse' under bonnet, junction box2 [is big fuse and relaybox] 'ecu-ig fuse' junction box 1 [on the right near your feet] 'ecu-b fuse' '' '' '' '' '' If no joy email me and I will photograph the wiring diagram post results on LOC if you fix it :)

have a look on www.lexls.com/tutorials

Think this is 'time to clean the throttle body' symptons........

What is the problem with the lights?

Even though I think it's a rip off price, I still think once a year is best. If the government want to save us a few quid, make all MOT stations just that. No repairs, no lies, no robbing old ladies, no bulls**t tales of woe to the non mechanically minded. Well I can dream can't I?

Try swapping 'em round, might be a duff bulb.... :winky:

Glad you said that about no engine braking, When I first got the car I thought it was a fault. Does yours drive itself with the air con on? :o

As all the above..... B)

Thought you might like it.......... :winky:

Check out the price of Blueprint non OEM discs, I have had no problem with these.........

There are a couple of pages of codes. Basic conditions of check. Battery 11volts or more Throttle closed[throttle position sensor points closed] Trans in neutral air con off Test There is a test mode[ignition off] to prove the light flashes, this can also be used to diagnose, but checks other items and might confuse. connect teminals between TE1 and E1 of TDCL or connector. When the engine is not cranked codes 43[ starter signal] and 17 and 18 [No 1 and No2 cam position signal are output but this is not a fault If the trans is in D/2/L or R or when the air con is on or the accelerator pressed code 51 is output but this is not a fault. Continuous steady flashing is 'normal' when no other codes are identified You can clear the codes by removing the EFI fuse from j/box No 2 for 10 seconds with the ignition off. After this, retest for a 'normal ' code Hope this is some use!!

Often called the serpentine belt, usually behind the radiator and driving other devices ie p/steering ,air con, alternator etc. Not familiar with yor model it may have more than one belt..... check for fraying, cracking and general ragged looks or just too slack, making it screech when it tries to drive the alternator after a cold start.

Give more details of what you were doing and I'll look in the manual for you.......

Is the belt that drives the alternator and power steering pump OK and tight?