ROYT

In the bags are new castle nuts and split pins for the new ball joints

I replaced my front discs with 'Blueprint' [Japanese] supplied by uk supplier. The new pads were OEM....... although I don't do a lot of mileage, this combination has been perfectly OK.

Triumph Herald......948cc....with twin carbs...wow! How sad [and old] is that!!?? :yack:

Have no knowledge of the GS, but if the plugs and plug leads are Ok,based on other fuel injected cars(is it?) I would have the fuel line pressure checked. It may be worth checking the distributor cap for tracking also. Worth a try if stuck!! cheers

I found my printout for this problem taken from the USA site. 3 capacitors need replacing with better quality ones on the two boards behind the instrument panel.The types and values are given along with their location numbers. The writer Cole Carter claims he completed the whole job within two hours at a cost of a dollars worth of parts. [probably a fivers' worth in the UK!] A post well worth looking for.... :)

Haven't done this job,the bearing is pressed in,then the speed sensor rotor fits next, then the locking nut, followed by the grease cap on the end. You could check if the nut is at the correct torque. This is 2030 kg cm,or 147 ft-lb or 199 N.m May be no use but worth a try,remember the nut is on the inside of the hub. cheers ;)

There is an answer to this problem on the USA LOC web site. search for post by Cole Carter November 17 2003. The problem is apparently caused by failing capacitors on the circuit board behind instument panel. Cheers. ;)

Rip-off Britain strikes again....!! :yack:

hi! I would start with a new set of plugs if little or no recent service history is known. If no cure, next .....new HT leads, both positive jobs to do. OEM plugs are Iridium I beleive and expensive but standard plugs are available. On my'94 LS you can stand an old style threepenny piece on the engine when it's running and it won't fall over....yours should be the same! cheers ;)

I think it's more the fault of the greedy goverment taxation,they are the ones who rake in massive amounts of revenue. If they can afford a war and twenty thousad asylum seekers,they can afford to reduce the tax on fuel .

Sorry to hear about work problems, you should find another job without any problem.Keep in touch with everybody on LOC, something will turn up from somewhere. Everyone appreciates your input. As my old dad used to say.'as one door shuts another closes'! What the hell use that was I don't know! ;) Good luck...RoyT

If you want to remove the alternator yourself ....... 1 disconnect battery negative cable 2 remove the drive belt[loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner anticlockwise] do a drawing how the belt fits first! 3 remove the engine undercover 4 remove the nut and B terminal wire and disconnect the connector [alternator] 5 remove the bolt that goes right through the alternator and the nut and then the alternator. Reinstall in reverse order,remember to turn the tensioner when refitting belt. All based on info in the workshop manual.....hope this helps ;)

Try Chris Shipley, he got me three manuals. One is electrical wiring, allow up to £150, you will save this first job you do!

If the alternator is still charging, try a different known good battery before buying alternator......how old is the battery?

got mine from Chris, 3 books,one is electrical wiring diagrams, allow up to £150 ......pays for itself on the first job

You need to test drive the LS to see if you like it. If you do, worrying about servicing costs will soon fade away! There is bags of info on this site [and the USA site] and someone will know a local mobile mechanic for servicing jobs. If you are not into doing any of it yourself make sure you get one with FSH and some sort of warranty. This is not a car for being stuck in traffic jams or rush hour commuting if fuel consumption is an issue. [in my opinion!!] cheers......

Never had mine out '94 LS....try this site for info. http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalLexusLS400str1.htm ;)

If you are 'inching ' down a slope with the brakes partly applied they will make a groaning noise, every car I've had with disc brakes did this. If they pull up smoothly with no noise, judder or pulling to one side at low speeds when driving normally,say approaching traffic lights, and they are powerfull, based on your inspection of the pads and rotors I would ignore it!

I have Lexus 17" on my'94.LS Info with the wheels says 8Jx17 offset 40/ tyres 235/45 I was told this applies to MK 1..,2..and 3 If this helps... ;)

MY '94 LS does the same it's normal,I just unscrew the filler cap slowly. My old Merc. and Honda did the same!

not sure about this, do they mean public liability insurance?

For Henrik in Sweden,the aircon has a self diagnosis system. I'll try to describe this ,it is better with the pictures to follow but I am not that good on the computer to send them With the ignition off, whilst pushing both the buttons marked 'auto ' and the one with the picture of an arrow curling to the right, turn on the ignition. All the little green indicators will flash. After a few seconds the system goes to sensor check and a code appears in the display. These are the codes 00=normal-11=inside temp. sensor-12=outside t/s. 13=After evap. sensor-14=water temp.heater radiator - 21=solar sensor-22=compressor lock detected[short of refrigerant does this one]-23=coolant pressure- 31=air-mix servo potentiometer- 32=IN/OUT change damper servo potentiometer -33=Mode damper S/p - 41=air-mix damper S/p.- 42=IN/OUT change damper S/p - 43 mode damper s/p To cancel push the 'off' button phew! hope this is some use

Switch in left side of boot is air suspension height control on/off switch :winky:

I have been asked by an aquaintance with a '91 LS if the CD changer magazine on my LS has ever jammed, as his is firmly stuck. This has'nt happened to me and before we start tinkering I wondered if any member has had this problem. [and did you fix it!!] cheers

When I got my'94 Ls I found both front springs were broken. I replaced them myself,cannot remember how much 'cos I bought new front rotors at the same time. You can do this job with any one who has removed a front suspension leg before,say a macpherson strut. The complete leg is easily removed and then you can carefully hold it in a vice [i put some old lead flashing in the jaws so it was'nt damaged] while you remove/ replace the broken spring, What you ABSOLUTELY MUST DO is get the most substantial spring compressors you can get.[hire]? I use two on each spring, these are strong springs, but are easy to control with good compressors. When the leg is in the vice,check before dismantling and reassembling how the spring sits in place. Don't try to rush the job,make sure the spring is captured securely before removing the end. Looks scary but BIG BUTCH COMPRESSORS are the key!!