ROYT

Known fault on early models, especially when cold. There is a step by step fix on the USA LOC. The original post was by Cole Carter. You have to replace three capacitors on the circuit boards behind the instrument panel. I have done this fix on my'94 LS. If you can solder tiny parts you can do it, I got the caps. from Maplin. :)

All the above while going up a steep hill.........

On my '94 Ls the adjusting screws are three on top, one on the side. They are behind the lens in the plastic surround nearest to the glass. Might be worth a look......

Whoops, I knew I should have got them new glasses............ :duh:

We are a bit far away for you!! Try the USA LOC lots more info on there...........!! cheers :winky:

I thought he had a spare unit with master key from another car? If thats right why can he not just change the barrel for the donor? He only needs a new master to unlock the boot and petrol panel, he has an ignition key. Or am I missing something........ :duh:

According to the w/shop manual, if you remove the lower panel to gain access to the switches, the lock barrel is only held from the rear by two screws and can be removed seperately. If you were just replacing the switch you still have to remove the lock barrel Hope this helps......

As above........any water in the fuel?

If you have a complete spare lock and switch unit with key from a donor car, why not just change the lot? Once it's done and you can pop the switch out, you will hardly ever use that facility and you can just carry the master key in your wallet, in case someone accidentally locks it. Go for it!! :winky:

If you lose refrigerant from the aircon it won't click on. The front fan or fans depending on your model rarely run unless the aircon is on which if you are in AUS is probably often. The main cooling fan is behind the radiator if thats OK, think aircon problem B)

Same for me'94 model ...half way only, look behind the radiator, have you seen the size of that fan.........

Have you tried the ' CLEAR CMOS' jumper? Tells you in the m/board handbook which it is.

Good helpful info....will keep and hope I never need it!!

As above! but it is a fair dismantling job to get to the motor. It is between the inlet manifolds, which have to be removed. Not sure if I read somewhere that someone managed to get it out without removing the manifold, well worth checking the USA LOC web site. cheers B)

Have you had a new timing belt or checked the one on the car?

Try this for pics. of the job. http://apaqdigital.com/ls400/instrument_circuit.jpg Print it . There was a step by step tutorial on how to get the instrument panel out on www.lexls.com, but when I just tried it, it would not come up. Worth a few tries, makes the job easier. I answered your last post ....mine went wrong the following day! Did you put a 'hex' on me........ I did this job myself, if you can neatly solder small parts you can do it. Don't try and rush it and take care not to pull the printed track up from the board! Ps....it works fine, I got the caps. from Maplin B) B)

If you have changed other cambelts you can do it. Not a model to learn on! It takes a long time [i did anyway!]........get the info before you start ;)

As above!!!!! :winky:

I'd like to see them try this in the USA! Here, any gimmick will do to screw you for more tax, lets face it they have to come up with something to justify the fat salary and pension. We should ask the politians to look at a map of the UK and explain to us why a country this size, taxed to death and after death does not have the highest standard of living in the world. If we kept our noses out of other peoples busines for a while, and only imported genuine workers, maybe the slide to a third world standard would at least slow down. Common Market........gravy train for failed politians, if it's so great why don't the Swiss join.

have you got your computer next to it?!"!

Great.....good to hear a result.....much more interesting than fixing it and saying nothing..........!!

Check out the USA LOC forums for LS 400, I'm sure the full intsructions are downloadable from there.......there's bags of info on there, 'cos there are many more owners in the USA! :winky:

W/shop manual says 'align the installation mark on the belt with the drilled mark on the crankshaft timing pulley. Pic. shows bottom pulley with dot, arrow on belt in line with dot and the letters CR . There are about 30 steps to follow in the order of assembly Here is a bit of it, regarding just fitting the belt. Next install the RH c/shaft timing pulley [80ft-lb]RH mark forward Next the LH -------"----------------------------------LH---------- Set # 1 cylinder to TDC on compression[crankshaft pulley position] Turn pulley and align its groove with the 0 [degree] timing mark of the # 1 timing belt cover Turn the camshaft pulley and align marks on the pulley and the belt back plate. Install the belt to to the LH c/shaft timing pulley.The mark on the belt matches with the end of the fan bracket.slightly turn the LH c/shaft pulley clockwise. Align the mark on the belt with the mark c/shaft pulley. Align the marks of the Lh c/shaft and the timing belt rear plate. Repeat with the RH side Best if you get proper instructions........disaster if you get it wrong!!!!!!!

This problem is well covered on the USA LOC site along with the cure, which is the replacement of a few capacitors on the instrument panel circuit board

Navman recommend the optional plug in aerial for cars with heated or heat reflective windscreens. Says in my 520 user manual..... :duh: