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blackcts

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  1. aye its just starting to be slightly lazy when starting, mainly from cold. I left the radio and the blower running when i went into a garage for 5 minutes and it took the second try to start it. Got the battery tested at halfords and the guy said that the alternator and starter were ok, but the reader advised to replace the battery. Take it this is the same way everyone elses started going? Cheers!
  2. Anyone had to replace the battery on their mk2 IS? What sort of age and mileage? Think mine is starting to die after 6 years. I take it an exide battery will do the job? Cheers
  3. I agree, give it a good clean - are you all using a good quality 0w30/5w30 c2 low ash motor oil?
  4. Yep DMF - mine did the same, replaced with clutch under warrantt
  5. the toyota stamp wouldnt bother me in the slightest, neither would a decent indy - only if it had premium oil and genuine parts receipts in the handbook.
  6. Absolutely!!! I'd say apart from the HG issue they aren't an unreliable car by modern diesel standards.
  7. I think 10w40 can be used, but 5w30 is the recommendation visosity. You may notice a difference in fuel efficiency with 5w30, but remember the 2.5 is a big engine and the current cold weather will have an effect on mpg.
  8. The head gasket issues would be fixed on a 10 plate 2.2 AD engine, so as long as its serviced on time with good quality diesel - it should be as reliable as any modern diesel on the road.
  9. To be fair, apart from the head gasket issue which Toyota have stood by their customers and replaced engines up to 7yrs 112k - the 2.2 engine isn't any more unreliable than any other similarly aged diesel with dpf IMO - that said id be wary about buying any AD engined car without an engine replacement that falls between the extended warranty years. There is no such thing as the totally reliable modern diesel IMO regardless of manufacturer - just look at the horror stories from every manufacturer out there. VAG and Mazda to name 2 examples. If you want bullet proof reliability buy an old diesel or a petrol engine.
  10. Possible EGR Valve clogged? Are you using low ash motor oil - 5w30 or 0w30 C2 spec?
  11. You have risk with any used car, does the clutch have a high biting point or judder when you pull off? If not there should be plenty of life left in it. As far as I know the gearboxes can be notchy, but I havent heard of any major problems. Lexus parts are expensive, but there are options on the aftermarket like blueprint, koni shocks etc, if not the same range of aftermarket parts you would get for a 3 series / A4 etc and they are generally more expensive than both. But on the upside, there is no timing belt to change. Use good quality low ash oil, keep an eye on the oil and coolant, give the car a good run up the motorway once a week and it shouldnt give any bother.
  12. Switching the air con on and off can affect RPM, but in your case the first thing id do is clean your EGR valve! Its likely to be coked up There are guides on youtube - its not a big job for a mechanic if you dont fancy it yourself! Re the gearbox when cold, they are all the same..mine isnt particularly pleasant when cold...mine had its gearbox oil changed by lexus a few months ago and it helped, so id recommend trying that. Hopefully a gearbox oil and EGR clean will solve/help with your problems!
  13. That's terrible, as long as the oil was between the markers, that wasn't the cause of the failure. Wonder what oil was used at last service?
  14. To be fair you read about all the bad 220ds on here - I'm not saying for a second they don't have their problems, but I think it's fair to say that most haven't had HG failure after 25-30k and even then, Toyota have been more than generous with this acknowledged design flaw, extending the warranty to 7yrs/112k (full service history permitting). Other than that fairly major fault they are pretty reliable as far as a modern diesels go IMO. Ref the S40, they are a lovely car - we had one for 5 years (petrol) and it was pretty reliable apart from the Abs control unit fault @ £1500 which is extremely common in pre 08 cars afaik. Reference the diesel (2.0d) - I haven't driven it in an S40 but have driven the Focus 2.0d which has the same engine. I agree, it's not as laggy as the 220d but it's certainly not any faster, but no doubt it's more economical the 2.2 D-CAT system kills mpg around town. Regarding reliability, the mates 2.0d has 110k and now is getting hard to start at times and mechanic reckons it needs injectors (big money). My point is modern cars (especially diesels) have the potential for big bills, there's no such thing as the totally reliable car unfortunately and there's a degree of luck.
  15. Think the exhaust must have been unlucky, they are normally quite long lasting on Japanese cars - good to know that there are aftermarket alternatives
  16. Think the exhaust must have been unlucky, they are normally quite long lasting on Japanese cars - good to know that there are aftermarket alternatives
  17. I'd still say Lexus are still one of the most reliable makes, have a look at some of the Audi forums...nothing is perfect
  18. Bloody hell, it seems not even IS250s are safe http://my.is/forums/f122/is250-carbon-build-up-out-warranty-service-447593/ Cars of all makes are scary, geez you would buy nothing if you looked too much into anything.
  19. I'm nearly sure the manual suggests 5w30 as the best all rounder no??? The IS250 needs a 5w30 A1/B1 oil which can be picked up anywhere for buttons. Toyota 5w30 fuel efficient oil can be got for around £15 for 5 litres from dealers. Magnetec A1/B1 5w30 is perfectly fine also, Comma, Millers - anything that meets that spec will be perfect for your car. Lucky you my IS220d needs the more expensive low ash oil 0w30 or 5w30 C2 spec! Which it drinks! I think you need about 6.3 litres for a change on a 250 (Comma state 6.3L). If I were you I'd choose the cheapest well known brand that meets that 5w30 A1/B1. It's Ford spec oil, so can be got anywhere. http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/5w30-engine-oil/?521772231&0&cc5_247 That's a bargain Shell Helix 5w30 A1/B1 - £20 for 5 litres, can't go wrong with Shell oil! Even if you bought 10 litres for £40, you would have enough for topups and you probably would only need to buy 1 5 litre for the next oil change! That's much better value than the Magnetec!
  20. £1200 and you would be laughing with genuine luk parts as well. Surely even to change a dmf and flywheel on a focus at a Ford dealer would be more than that.
  21. £2k at lexus for replacement clutch and flywheel, mine was done about 3k ago. But worry not http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS220-D-2-2-D-LUK-CLUTCH-DUAL-MASS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-175-150-BHP-2-2D-IS-220D-/130972357253?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e7e8f9285 £1045 for a clutch and flywheel delivered and £150-200 for a local garage/mechanic to fit. Expensive yes, but surely that's not much more than what you would pay to replace a dmf and clutch on an Avensis?
  22. My car is under lexus approved used warranty and they replaced the clutch and flywheel with no quibbles, I was pleasantly surprised with the clutch being replaced, but then again you wouldn't expect to have a car 4 months needing a clutch. I had been concerned about the dpf and had been considering extending the warranty when it runs out. I don't think ill bother because I noticed previously that it doesn't list the dpf as a covered part. I sincerely hope you get sorted out, but shouldn't be the end of the world - you can buy new dpfs on ebay for £500 or just get it removed.
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