Shahpor

Well, I can't help you with the post facelift cars (assuming there is any difference), but here are what I have on the wiring of the headlights and AFS system on the older cars: AFS.pdf HL.pdf

Nice looking car you got there. Don't see many in black. Sorry, I should have mentioned that I posted the video only to show you how to change the light, not the purchase it from them. I assume if you get OEM lights then you won't have a problem with AFS, although I would think that the satellite function won't work. Might be worth looking for someone who is breaking a facelift car.

Welcome Matthew This video shows you how to swap the lights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnwjS5aN_QI Strange that the pre facelift light is so much more expensive. Oh, and we always encourage people to post pictures of their car, so feel free.

It is quite normal It tends to happen when you run the air con compressor shortly after start up, although not always. Mine will idle at either 1200rpm or 800rpm and has always done so.

So no fault codes stored? Do you have a multi meter? What I suggest is checking the voltage output of the battery and alternator. Before starting the car, put the leads on the battery and check the voltage, it should read above 12v. Then start the car and put the multi meter leads on the connectors that attach to the battery. It should read over 13v but less than 15v. While the car is still running, turn on as many electrical items as you can eg. lights, air con, rear demister, wipers, etc.. and check the voltage again. It needs to read over 13v but have dropped slightly. This indicates whether the alternator is providing enough voltage to power the car and charge the battery. Checking the voltage on the battery before starting it should also tell you whether the battery is holding a correct charge or not. Failing any of this, your best bet would be an automotive electrician.

Welcome Ouch, that looks nasty. What happened? Is there a reason you aren't going through insurance? From the picture you posted, it looks like at least a front bumper, wing and headlight are required. What about the rest of the panels and doors? Also, did the wheel take a knock? Anyway, there seem to be plenty of silver IS250/220d's being broken on Ebay. Here are a few: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-LEXUS-IS220-D-ALL-PARTS-AVAILABLE-FOR-BREAKING/182382138006?hash=item2a76d29296:g:5PgAAOSw4GVYSXIj The bumper and headlight would be no good on this one because it has Xenon's fitted, but the rest should be ok: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-is-220d-breaking-2006-manual-silver-FOG-LIGT/271715704742?hash=item3f43849fa6:g:nqEAAOSw9r1V-UV0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS220d-IS250-FUEL-TANK-SILVER-BREAKING-2007/232550011960?hash=item36250f9438:g:V94AAOSwE0JZALgs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS220-IS250-FUEL-TANK-2008-SILVER/232315496283?hash=item361715275b:g:lygAAOSww9xZAfE3 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS250-FUEL-TANK-SILVER-COLOR-CODE-1G1-BREAKING-2008/232550004406?hash=item36250f76b6:g:tNcAAOSwdc5Zd1Lp These are the ones from the front page. If you do a search for 'IS250 IS220d breaking' you should find more.

Excellent result £315.50 isn't a bad price from the dealer. When I had my clutch replaced (in my case, DMF replaced under extended warranty), they charged me £500 for it, but that was including the release bearing. £500 is a lot for a clutch but I was very glad I did it when I had problems after the install since they replaced it anyway to make sure it wasn't faulty. I can imagine that if I had supplied the part myself they would have told me that - if the part was indeed faulty - I would have been liable for the labour. I hate to think how much that would have been!

Hey, Strange if it only happens after removing the battery. Is it the same the rest of the time? It sounds like the servo motor may have failed. Unfortunately, the only way to diagnose this (other than replacement) is to hook up the TechStream software and check the Pulse value.

Welcome Roger Do tell about this Rotary car that you have.

Cool, good result. It is not something I have come across before, so I agree this might be useful information in the future.

So the error code has been cleared?

Well, the obvious one is the DPF Thermal Deteriorated. I am not actually sure what that means. If you want to compare some figures, you can have a look at this thread: You're pressures are low, but then surely they should be considering there isn't a DPF in there. In fact, this is one of the reasons why I thought the car would have difficulty if you removed it, so the fact that you say it has worked fine for a few years is odd.

Actually, scratch that. I just checked the manual again and it says the pressure at 3000rpm indicates the pipes are wrong, which is obviously not the case here.

Have you taken the hoses off the sensor recently? The reason I ask is that the manual states that a negative pressure reading suggests the pipes have been fitted backwards.

Mine is going back for a second time because of a dash rattle that has appeared since my airbag was done. The first time it went back they said it was the instrument cluster that was causing the noise and added some padding. Strange thing is, the noise went away for a couple of weeks, but it is now back. Lexus Reading have been good about it though and booked it back in without question.

Not the most miles on here by any means, but mine has just ticked over 133,000 miles yesterday.

Well, I can't speak for anyone else, but there was copper grease applied to mine and it didn't help. That is when it was suggested that the pad retaining springs were weak and allowed the pads to move. Although, in this instance, the reason for adding more copper grease was squealing brakes, not any clicking noise. It was only after the squeal was (more of less) taken care of that I heard the noise.

This is the test to determine if the sensor is working properly or not: Although, as you can see, it is tricky because you need to apply air pressure to test the values.

I have a similar issue, but I would describe mine as more of a 'click' then a clunk. I never noticed whether it was only when the car was warm or not, although if it is brakes then the engine temperature should be irrelevant? Anyway, as you say, my local dealer also suggested that it is my pads moving. In my case, the brakes are relatively new, and it only started happening after I had my calipers replaced. Lexus wanted £120 to replace them, but I found the springs cheaper here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS-IS200d-IS220d-IS250-2006-2013-FRONT-Brake-Pad-Disc-Fitting-Hardware-Kit-/302477580911? It should also be simple to fit, and if I hadn't recently had back surgery I would have fitted them myself by now.

This is what the manual has to say about the differential pressure: I hope this sheds some light on the problem for you.

Sorry, I don't mean not to include it, but it is just that the wording suggests it is news, not a query. Linas really should have put a question mark at the end of the title. I agree he should be quite chuffed though.

It seems you have made the club newsletter Linas A bit cheeky of whoever decided to include it though.

I had juddering on mine when moving off. Turns out it was my flywheel that was worn. I obviously had the clutch changed at the same time. I think it is worth doing both if you plan to keep the car for a while considering the labour involved with replacing it. £550 is a very good price. I couldn't find one for less than £900 when I was looking. Luckily Lexus paid for it in the end Having said that, it depends on how many miles your car has? Mine was on 109k, so the flywheel was pretty worn. If the person doing the job is willing to wait, you could always get the old flywheel out and have a look before deciding to get a replacement?

Doesn't the GS of that model year come with the Gen05 sat nav? It should be the same one fitted to mine.

Some people really need a good beating! I know I can't speak for your situation, but my missus car was hit while parked so she had to make a claim for roughly £800. Come renewal time, there was no increase in premium, which was surprising. I don't get how people do this kind of thing? There is no way someone didn't realise they hadn't done this (and if they did, then they shouldn't be driving!). I have been in a similar situation before when I hit a parked car and did significant damage. No one saw me, and I admit I initially drove away without doing anything, but half way down the road I just couldn't bring myself to let it go, so I went back and left a note. I even felt ashamed for driving off in the first place even though I went back. So, someone has hit your car and just drove off without caring that they have cost you a significant amount of money? I really hope you get the footage and find out who done this.