Shahpor

Welcome Iain. Well, that is certainly, ahem, interesting looking. So, what engine swap you doing then?

That is a good point Paul, well spotted. I would certainly get it checked out if my tyre looked like that. According to this site: "No matter how expensive your tyre is, the day you notice those damaging cracks on the sidewall, you should start contemplating about purchasing new tyres. Cracks on the sidewall occur because over time the oils and chemicals in the rubber compound, that so long kept the tyre intact, gradually evaporate or break down due to over exposure to UV rays of the sun. Also over time, the rubber loses its tightness and cracks begin to appear. Cracks on the sidewall indicate that the tread is now drying out and giving way. Driving with cracks on the sidewall could also result in the tread separating mid way or it might result in a possible blowout while on the move."

Shaun, I don't mean to be rude, but I really wish you didn't feel the need to bash the 220d so often. I know you had some very bad luck with yours, and I sympathize, but the 220d is not a total ball ache for everyone. It would be nice if you didn't scare away the new diesel members before they have had a chance to feel welcome.

If it was in limp home mode, you would know it The dash would light up with the engine management light and it would say 'Check VSC' on the information display. Although, what you describe sounds very similar to what limp home mode is like.

Ebay would be your best bet: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16pin-Mini-VCI-Toyota-Lexus-TIS-TechStream-OBD2-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-/112063076459?epid=714481939&hash=item1a177ad86b:g:Vw0AAOSwqfNXj555 This one claims to be the new version which removes the 32-bit operating system requirement.

Welcome John. As Steve has mentioned, it is rare for a turbo to spontaneous fail. If you put your hand into the front of the turbo and spun something cone shaped with fins on then that is the compressor, which seems to be fine. No warning lights on the dash? No smoke out the back? Does to car pick up any power over 2000rpm at all? Another thing to check would be the waste gate on the back of the turbo to see if it is stuck open. Unfortunately, that is not as simple as checking the compressor. The ideal test would be to temporarily plumb in a boost gauge. I can't remember if the TechStream software's live data feed shows boost pressure. Also, although it should throw up an error, have the checked the throttle body to see if the flap is opening all the way? It is probably fine, but it is easy enough to investigate to make sure.

Welcome. Firstly, your image is not working. Second, I was wondering if you could tell us why you need a new caliper? The reason I ask is that most problems with them are the result of seized slide pins that can be fixed without need a replacement.

Welcome Tim That is a late one, and barely run in at only 2500 miles a year average. What spec is it? Also, any photos?

That is ridiculous! I bought a couple of guibo's over the years for various BMW's and they were cheap and easy to install. The fact that Lexus won't supply just that part is scandalous. If it turns out the be the guibo, I would just find someone breaking a 250 and get a second hand one from them. Not ideal, but it is not the most difficult thing to change if you need to do it more than once. I am obviously curious to hear the results, so keep us posted please.

Ok, so the propshaft takes the drive from the engine and transfers it to the rear differential. The differential splits the motion into two and send it to each rear wheel. The drive shafts transmit this drive from the differential to the wheels. The reason the drive shafts have two CV joints is because the wheels have to move up and down while the differential stays still. This diagram shows what's inside one: So, as you can see in the following picture, inside the rubber boot is a set of ball bearings in a cage: What usually happens is that, when the boot splits and the grease is lost, the ball bearings will wear and develop play against the cage. This will eventually lead to failure if the joint isn't replaced. On the whole though, they are very strong joints and rarely fail. Removing the shaft isn't the most difficult of jobs, and can be done with regular tools. Once out, it can be checked for wear. So, because the IS is rear wheel drive, there are no drive shafts on the front axle. Only front and four wheel drive cars have drive shafts on the front. I get what you are saying regarding the shuddering, although I have probably missed what you said, but what happens to the car below 60mph? I had a bad shudder on mine that turned out to be engine mounts, but mine only happened during initial acceleration. Worst comes to worst, you can always book it into a dealer to see if they can figure it out? It would cost you a bit, but I would expect a definitive answer for my money. It would probably be better than just randomly changing parts.

Hmm, it is a tricky one to diagnose. Where did you get the digitizer from? Does it have a warranty? It might be worth trying to send it back to see if they replace it? I assume when it freezes, it is only the touchscreen that doesn't work and the buttons on the left and right still change the screen?

Yep, it is something that most people overlook. It is top level cover with the AA, which as you know isn't that cheap, so definitely something worth considering when thinking about purchasing the warranty.

Ok, for the sake of clarity, I am referring to the parts in red: Hmm, strange one. Although I would have through that some of the items you described would make it shudder when accelerating, not decelerating. You say it does it over 60mph, so is that all the time (i.e. regardless of acceleration or not)? Have you checked the wheel bearing? When decelerating, does it go away as the speed comes down or does it do it until you have stopped?

Hi Matt, I can't say I have heard of any particular problems with the touchscreen with regards to temperature. Mine certainly hasn't shown any signs of issues with the current weather. Are you sure that all the cables/connectors were securely attached when you fitted the digitizer? It wouldn't be difficult to develop a loose connection by going over bumps, etc..

You mean the CV joint? It is rare for them to fail unless the boot surrounding them splits and all the grease leaks out. Also, no CV joints on the front since there aren't any driveshafts, only hubs. Can you describe the vibration?

Yep, from what I have heard, the M5 especially requires very deep pockets to run. Pistonheads did a used car guide recently, and some of the costs were scary.

I can't actually remember where the menu is and I don't have my copy to hand to check. However, this post should give you an idea what to do: So it seems you need to go to the Active Test Menu, and it should be available from there. Let me know if you get stuck and I investigate further.

Good to be back huh? Be thankful we have some bearable temperatures today.

Ahh, ok, the previous owner said you part ex'd a 535d. My mistake. Interesting to hear a comparison between the ISF and the M3. If you don't mind me asking, how was your M3 during your ownership and what made you decide to change?

Welcome. Looks familiar How does it compare to your old 535d?

Actually, that is a good point and quite logical too. I suppose one thing I never considered properly is that they want to maximise their profit from you and not just offer you insurance at any cost.

@normski2 is right. The manual says the following: P2002 is quite common and relates to the DPF:

I get what you are saying Russell, but how can statistics explain the same insurer charging more for an additional years No Claims when all the other factors are the same? The whole point of having a No Claims Bonus scheme is to reward drivers who don't make claims, so surely some logic should apply?

You need to read the fault codes to see what the problem is. Do you have a reader to access them?

My policy is also up for renewal, and of course my current insurer thinks that another year of claim free driving means an increase in my premium Anyway, not a problem since I have found cheaper insurance elsewhere, but while doing so, I came across another strange 'quirk'. I initially put my No Claims at 10 years, but then thought I had made a mistake and put it down to 9 years; the result? The premium went down by £4. I can understand if the price didn't change at all, but going down for having less No Claims? This isn't the first time something strange has happened either. My missus had her renewal a few months back and she had a claim in the last 3 years. What happened was that someone hit her car while it was parked overnight. So when it came to inputting the claim on a comparison site, we initially put it as 3rd party at fault. However, since we never identified the guilty party, we decided it would be safer to put it down as a claim from her insurers. What happened this time? £50 cheaper for a fault claim against a non fault one! Can someone please explain how these companies determine their prices? I wouldn't be surprised if someone suggested a random number generator was involved! Sorry about the rant, but I didn't want to create a new thread just to bitch and this was the closest one I could find to the topic at hand.