Texas

Basically been averaging about 5k a year which is way below norm. But the only thing that would need a real close inspection for me would be the front shock advisories ( have they been replaced or not just picked up on since?) and the oil leak. Otherwise seems a lot of car for the money ( still haggle down a bit though) and should last a good few years/miles if nurtured. paul m.

You don't really want one that doesn't need anything doing to it do you? you want to get up close and personal and have an input on it's wellbeing? From the faults you highlighted then these seem like 'leisurely' fixes ie not as stressful as a head gasket for example. Did/do you intend actually doing the work yourself or 'Subbing' it out as this could add up ££££'s wise? Reason I ask is I will do almost all jobs myself even if it means getting (special) tools. I (usually!) have a great feeling of self satisfaction afterwards especially if you intend keeping a car until it rots this helps a great deal. Did you feel there was any room for manoeuvre on the asking price when you highlighted the faults? As you may have got closer to a grand than you think! paul m. just re-read your post and gotta agree that 'bubbling on edge of windscreen' would irk me somewhat, about the only thing I don't take on is paint!.

Can't get much better than a LOC member with a personal experience endorsement! Gonna bookmark that seller for future! paul m.

Good feeling knowing it has been done correctly and bonus getting the ECP discounts when they come along! Having said that there is always a discount available ( just depends on the amount) so never pay full price, just sign up for email newsletters and wait a day or two for a bargain to come along. Personally just got a Duracell battery (5 yr Gtee) for daughters car for £43 instead of £86 in a 50% off 2 hour window offer! paul m.

*don't ' belive' be sure to check the small print!

20 ft/lbs ? How so when the spec is equivalent to 29 ft/lbs. If one was to not fit a new washer then I could understand the slightly reduced torque setting as the old washer will have no 'give', but with a new washer being fitted then it may need the full 29 ft/lbs to bed in. paul m.

At the end of the day it has only got to hold 'itself' there, not like a head bolt for example. paul m.

Info you are looking for is here http://workshop-manuals.com/lexus/ls_430/v8-4.3l_(3uz-fe)/maintenance/fluids/engine_oil/component_information/specifications/page_1242/ so Torque: 39 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.) Paul m.

Onge!!!!!! Welcome to the club, come on in...😀😀 you havin' problems with your DERV 250!!! paul m. (TEXas)

Agreed on the photos ( shame it's a perfectly serviceable relay though!) and dare I say it looking forward the the same high quality when Swann55 produces a 'How To' after he has removed his starter and swapped out the solenoid contacts 😀😀 only joking ( would be nice though) as I understand it to be a pita job and to capture on camera at the same time is a bit much. paul m.

+1, that is why the ignition switch is spring loaded at the "Start" position of the key turning action.this is so the starter motor is only energised when you hold the key against the spring tension and ( most people hopefully then) let it return to the "Ignition" posistion once the car is running! Like I said it appears that this is a known problem ( aftermarket kit available indicates this as there must be a market for it!) and quite an easy and inexpensive ( there I said it again!) fix once the starter is on the bench. I have watched a couple of YouToob vids of starter removals on the LS400 series and Even though I don't envy you it looks like a 'doable' job with no special tools required and done from above ( so no raising of vehicle required). it appears that the biggest problem is a pipe at the rear that hinders the fixing bolts to the motor/solenoid unit, but one Vid I watched done the solenoid contact change with the starter/solenoid still fixed to the engine by taking the solenoid cover off. Paul m.

What it so far as the ECU doesn't monitor itself! And any faults in the ECU fault finding section can't be read? sort of makes sense but a bit of a stab in the dark to think about replacing the ECU, is it just a straight swap out with another suitable ( matching part numbers exactly) ECU or do you have to get involved with ignition / door locks and keys not to mention immobiliser? paul m.

Looks to be a lot of car for not a lot of money, obviously have to stand in front of it as photos are always flattering! As for the coolant 'concern' then like I mentioned here Post #10 It's new owner ( It could be you!) will prob give it a 'shot in the arm' and get everything tickety boo so to speak and that seems quite low miles for its age and therefore no reasonable reason why it shouldn't do another 160k paul m.

Gotta be there somewhere and when manufactures make car wiring looms they do not normally leave 'ends' unnecessarily any longer than absolutely required so it shouldn't be far away! paul m.

Have a read of this ( in case you haven't already!) https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/lexus/is-2005/ learned a lot ( apart from this forum of course😀) Before I decided I was going to go for a (good as I could get with my budget) SE-L, was a bonus when after travelling a fair few hundred miles looking at 250's one turned up on my doorstep with 38k miles and a Sunroof option ( Lexus call it a Moonroof! For some reason) and when I went and viewed it, it turned out to have the only other option of Active Cruise Control (ACC), so it was sold to the man in the 17 year old Mondeo ( Me) before I even drove it. Only thing is the colour was/ is my least favourite choice - Argento Silver they call it...but matched with the black leather interior ( only choice for me) I can live with it....Don't tell the missus but I'm looking at ISF's but with only one eye at the moment!!! Best of luck hunting and it seems that for some reason there are lots of really good SE-L coming up all the time at the moment. paul m. PS got mine at BMC!

It's Just been 'reduced' by £700......

I am not au fait with the exact location of the starter and therefore solenoid on your car but in years gone by one remedy for a 'sticky' starter motor solenoid was to tap it with a hammer to free up the internal slider to make the contacts energise the starter motor. But in your case I feel that when dismantled you will find the contacts and slider contact have if fact fused together to some degree, like I said if accessible then a slight tap may free up the contacts as they have been sticking on and off in the past But they well may be stuck proper this time! fraid to say you gonna have to go in and get starter motor out ( somehow) but if not doing it yourself then you can show the mechanic trusted to do job the 'How To' details and supply the parts yourself, all the best with this fix and please report back afterwards... just found this might help once out!!! paul m.

'How to' posted on their website, http://www.repairkitsuk.com/3.html paul m.

Great vid on how to change O2 sensor!!!!!!!! Showed more of taking the battery on and off than the sensor remove/refit 😀😀

+1 on checking out the starter solenoid as above, this is a heavy duty switch that is perminantly connected between the battery and the starter motor. The solenoid is operated by a low current circuit ( ignition key switch or push button on dash) so you do not have to have a whacking great big switch inside the car. The fact that the starter continues to spin after the key is off indicates that the contacts inside the solenoid are still made, as above this can be due to the fact the contacts have arced and welded themselves together so it is no longer a switch more of a link! Should be a easy inexpensive ( did I really say inexpensive when referring to fixing a Lexus!!!) fix as years ago it was a common failure on cars and designers will/should allow for this part to be accessible and reparable paul m. Note: I might be right with my 'Inexpensive' comment as I just found this on that site beginning with an E, not saying this is the correct one for your car but I would get in touch with the seller/shop and explain your symptoms and go from there... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-LS400-4-0-V8-UCF10-UCF20-STARTER-MOTOR-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT/251277305501?hash=item3a814b669d:m:mfxbIAKAgUkc35A4Ho6X1PQ A phone number can be found under "Buisness Seller Information " at bottom of page and click on 'Complete Information '

Please Note that this was posted 2 months ago and I'd like to think the OP has got to the bottom of this problem, if they did then it would be nice to report back to allow others to benefit in the future if same problem arises. But that said...... ECU what? ECU needs a soft reset? ECU Broken ? ( for some inexplicable reason) ECU might be the problem? please expand..

Here's a read on 350 brakes onto 250 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/405811-is350-brake-upgrade-on-is250.html seems he got bits at a breakers! Like I said rare beast over here so chances of that here, hens teeth, unicorn poo, etc paul m.

Yes auto 'lectrics are a law unto themselves, switching neutrals ( or negatives!) and back feeding lives! Not to mention the new fangled CanBus stuff! Proper smoke 'n mirrors magic stuff that is! paul m.

Have you done any reading/searching on the US based Lexus Owners forum https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013-163/ More likely to have been done ( if poss) over there as the 350 is a rare beast over here! paul m.

Had this local corrosion of heat shield around fixing points on my Mondeo, I reckon it due to the reaction of dissimilar metals ( Aluminium & Steel) accelerated by the damp location. You can get a product called Isolation Paste to try and combat this but prob need to remove exhaust to do a proper job! paul m.