MacRS200

No problem glad to help out when I can :D

Been following this one and the other problem you have, probably as big as the postcode lottery, is no driving history. You don't have any NCB to your name. The down side of the "get the insurance in someone else's name and be a named driver", admittedly some insurers now take this into account. My step son (19 with 3 years NCB including a scooter @ 16) has a little Corsa. Our postcode area rates low risk, he has no mods and pays about the same sort of amount in insurance as you are being quoted for the Lex. Balance it out and I think that you will find it hard to get a lot lower on the quotes

Go for one of those pot scourer things, sponge on one side and plastic scourer on the other, with soapy water. Then some Autosol to polish up once its dried. Works a treat :D

The Tezza is fitted with a TOAD Thatcham CAT1 (alarm and immobiliser). I don't know the model or who fitted it. I just tell the insurer that it was installed when I bought the car and I have not had a problem, so far, in having them accept a declaration.

You have the 1G-FE in the IS200

Could not agree more, quality single hex sockets usually have a slight inward curve on the faces so they bear on the "flats" of the hex and not the corners. I went for the medium length bar for general purpose use, I suppose it also depends on the individual. I'm about 15 stone and an ex prop so hanging off the end of that gives me a fair amount of leverage. If I needed a longer one for a specific job I would go out and buy one. Over the years my tool kit has built up from basic stuff by getting tools as I needed them.

That makes 3 of us then. My logic WAS going this way: - 1/ The theft deterrent ECU can pull the horn relay coil to ground if the alarm was triggered, setting the horn off. If the ECU saw a false alarm it would lock the horn on (my inital problem). 2/ If you pulled the horn fuse or relay the ECU would know that the circuit had been tampered with because it no longer "saw" 12V on it's input and presumably activates the immobiliser. I can see no other reasons for the connection. Where I am now is at a dead end as I can't see a wiring fault to ground causing the problem as the horn would be on all the time so it must be the ECU. So why does 12V on the ECU cause all the other faults?

Update - Now tried all combinations of horn fuse and relay in/out, as I suspected the faults that I have are only present when the fuse and relay are both in place. I am also now down to the following list not working with the relay and fuse in: - Fuel Gauge Temp Gauge Charging light Manual gear indication Heated rear window And horn U/S Conclusion so far is that the problem is only there when 12V is on the theft deterrent ECU input from the horn circuit, as taking either the fuse or the relay coil out of the circuit clears the faults. So have to go find the theft deterrent ECU and the right connector to have a check on that. Problem is it's bloody raining now so don't want to get anything wetter than it already could be! Anyone with the same (or similar) problems tried taking out the horn fuse just out of interest?

Problem is if get the longest one you can't get into a lot of places, I got the 16" (400mm) one and even that is too long for some jobs. Generally I can get most things undone with though. Also worth buying decent sockets as well because with the extra leverage you can easily knacker the hex on a bolt if you use badly fitting sockets.

Right I'm like a "dog with a bone now" and probably boring the pants off everyone OK just tested the relay and it's OK, also tested that horn switch direct from the relay base in the engine bay fuse box. As expected constant 12V in one side of the coil and pressing the horn gives a short to ground that goes when you release the horn push so the switch is OK. From the diagram posted above the only way the coil can be energised with the horn switch open is if the theft deterrent ECU is pulling the feed to ground. Or am I missing something here?

Lovely motor mate and a real sleeper. Top job :D

Interesting but why do you say the N/S footwell for the horn problem? in this DIAGRAM the horn circuit shows only the switch (on the steering wheel) and the theft deterrent ECU being connected, they are both on the O/S.

As above from all, Firefox. Also IrfanView, a free image editing package that allows easy cropping and resizing etc of your pics. And of course AVG (Free), Zone Alarm (Free) and CCleaner!

A breaker bar is one of THESE. This is the one that I have. Have always rated the Halfords Professional range good for the price, also if you break it they will replace it free.

Just watched a programme on National Geographic about a drive over the Khardung Pass. What a road, it goes up to over 18,000 feet, if the mad drivers, landslides or avalanches don't get you altitude sickness will. Anyone else watch it?

As far as you know

Noticed this morning that the door open indication on the dash is now started working as well (added to list on my post above), the door switches connect into the Body ECU. And the Body ECU connects into the Theft Deterrent ECU controlling alarm and auto headlights.

Welcome to the LOC :D

From what I can make out the theft ECT and body ECUs are all behind the dash near the drivers A pillar, also one of the connectors for the horn circuit that splits the feed from the horn relay coil between the horn switch and the theft ECU. So I am betting on water in that area ATM.

No dry as a bone.

Finding them or losing them mate? :D Too many people to phone anyway, go for plan Bar.

Yup headlights are fine, they are manual so I don't have the sensor wired into the "theft deterrent ECU". ok,have you disconnected the theft deterrant ecu to see if all the faults are still there All the faults are gone for now with the horn relay out, was going to put it back in tonight but it's snowing round here. Target at the moment is the "theft deterrent ECU" as it seems to be the common link with all the faults. when you were asking about removing the fuse board and stuff did you have the faults then? Yes, thought it was water in the drivers foot well fusebox as it pointed that way till the horn thing this morning.

Yup headlights are fine, they are manual so I don't have the sensor wired into the "theft deterrent ECU". ok,have you disconnected the theft deterrant ecu to see if all the faults are still there All the faults are gone for now with the horn relay out, was going to put it back in tonight but it's snowing round here. Target at the moment is the "theft deterrent ECU" as it seems to be the common link with all the faults.

Oh life without mobile phones. What happened to the "meet in the bar when you get there" plan. Go for a SSS and meet in the bar at 8. After that meet in the bar when we get back in. If we get split up meet in the bar. It's easy, you youngsters have not a clue

Yup headlights are fine, they are manual so I don't have the sensor wired into the "theft deterrent ECU".