Yesterday was good weather wise for car washing (i.e. above freezing) so I thought I'd share my cleaning routine that I follow every 2 or 3 weeks depending on weather. I do about 250 miles a week so this is a clean every 500-750 miles across mixed roads in southern Scotland.
The aim of this isn't a super detail but something to keep the worst of the grim and road salt at bay and that can be completed in under an hour when the outside temperature isn't conducive to spending too long on the job! I prefer to do it with my own equipment as the stuff at the supermarket jet wash is rather harsh and can strip wax.
A couple of pictures first to show the built up of winter grime.
First up a good layer of snow foam to drag off the worst without risking scratching.
After giving it 5 minutes to dwell and a light rinse with the pressure washer (nothing too fierce at this stage) about 90% of the dirt has been removed.
Next up are the wheels. I give each a spray of cleaner, give it a couple of minutes and then wash off at about 80% pressure.
Next up with the main wash. Speed is of the essence so I go with spraying on the wash/wax solution. I then wipe this over using 2 buckets and 2 wash mitts (one for the top and the other the lower parts).
Finally the suds are rinsed off at 80% pressure and the windows cleaned. Results:
Pressure washer - Karcher K4 Bog standard buckets, one with a Grit Guard Wash Mitts - Meguiar's Lambs Wool Foam lance - Elite Car Care Foam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam Wheels - Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel Cleaner Wash - Autoglym Pressure Wash Windscreen - Autoglym Fast Glass Other windows and mirrors - Rain X 2 in 1 I do a good clean in autumn including wax with Armour All Shield that lasts well into winter so the dirt doesn't stick too bad. Inside I apply Gtechniq I1 to rain/snow coming in doesn't soak the seats or carpet. Come late spring the clay bar will come out to remove the ingrained stuff like tar sports that have accumulated over winter and I'll spend a full day pouring over it.
For a long time I’ve been puzzled by the Which? magazine review of the IS 300h. In their initial report they made it a Best Buy but a few months later downgraded it. Its website version of the review currently says: “Best Buy award removed. It's a very good car, but we found the Lexus IS emits so much CO (carbon monoxide) in our tests, that it would fail to meet any EU emissions limits set this century. As such, we cannot possibly recommend it.”
Despite this negative review, there were lots of things I liked about the car, plus some ratings that sounded impressive:
Best in class for 2013 NCAP safety World’s most efficient production petrol engine when launched, at 38.5%. (It was overtaken by a Honda six months later.) Routinely at top of reliability ratings. I was also doubtful about the Which? mpg figures. Their claim of 97 mpg around town was obviously nonsense and the motorway figure of 34 mpg looked doubtful too. They say their tests are performed in a laboratory but they don’t give enough detail to tell how they get to these extreme figures. I thought if the carbon monoxide figures are based on the same testing, they’re just as likely to be wrong. So I went ahead and bought an IS300h.
I’ve searched in the past for some other independent CO test reports and couldn’t find any. Until today.
But first, what is Which? claiming? They say it wouldn’t meet EU carbon monoxide emission limits set this century. I take this to mean Euro 4 in January 2005. (There was Euro 3 in January 2000 but that was the last year of last century.) The limit for petrol cars under Euro 4 is 1 gram per kilometre (g/km) of CO. So they’re saying the IS300h emits more than 1 g/km.
For a long time I had no way of knowing if that was true or not. But at last I’ve found a website that shows real-world emissions test results. It’s called EQUA Index and they test cars by driving them around real roads monitoring the emissions from the exhaust pipe on a three and a half hour run. They give the IS300h their top rating of A++. This represents a band from zero to 0.125 g/km of carbon monoxide. (Their result is for the 2017 model but I don’t think there are any significant differences to the engine from the 2013 model. Please correct me if I’m wrong.)
By contrast, Which? says CO emissions are more than eight times this figure.
I know nothing about EQUA; I’ve only just come across it. But I’m more inclined to believe that real-world testing on roads will give a more accurate figure than a short test in a laboratory.
I'm new to the forum and also the Lexus brand.
I've just recently bought a 2010 IS250 F Sport with 34k (now 35k) miles. It's a commuter car for work as I drive on the M25 and A2 everyday in Kent, so needed a nice auto for the daily 64 mile round trip. It's Argento Silver with a lot of options on it as I wanted one with the nav and memory seats, saw plenty without them too.
Only took pics this morning, needs a good wash, clay bar and wax:
Loved it so far, very smooth and comfortable. The suspension seems a bit stiffer now I'm living with it daily, but it's still very compliant. It's more the potholes or nasty ridges in the road that vibrate through the cabin. Just sorted the door unlocking last night as it wouldn't open the passenger door when I stopped or opened my door. Now the doors lock when starting the engine and shifting out of park and lock when shifting into park on stopping the engine, perfect! MPG was good on the way back from Stockport, sitting at around 40-43 mpg over 250 miles of mostly motorway. On a new tank of more realistic town and motorway, it's around 32-33 mpg which I think is very good considering the engine size and being an auto.
Things I love about the car - the looks, the seats, the 18 inch alloys, rear camera, Bluetooth streaming, electric seats and steering column, memory function, keyless entry and start.
A quick query while I have some attention, do people use the ECT power mode switch or leave it as standard? Only just read about it last night on this forum, elsewhere and also in the Lexus manual.
Any more hints and tips would be greatly appreciated!
I have just joined the club as I am interested in buying IS300h luxury trim 64 plate with 125k miles on it. I like German cars and had BMW 320d and C220 Merc in last few years. Both I bought with 100k+ miles on the board and I never had any issue with them all the time I had them apart from regular services and tyres change. They proved to be economical as well.
I have read a lot about other Lexus models with high mileage’s but I haven’t read anything about IS300H crossing 100+ and yet keeping inact which German diesels do quite often and quite decently.
I am still confused as if I should go ahead with it or stick to old school - long lasting diesels?
I have been following threads in here for quite a few days and found them very interesting and helping. I hope I would also be listened to :))
By Shyamal IS300H-FSPORT
I have recently bought a Lexus IS300h F port and I was told to get a tracker fitted by one of my colleages. I have bought the tracker that was suggested to me but I have no idea where or how to fit it.
The instruction manual says to attach it to a 12-36V charger (I'm assuming the 12V Battery in the boot). I have never done anything of this sort before so I just wanted to ask
a) is it safe for me to try and fit the two leads myself?
b) would me attaching a tracker to the 12V Battery drain it & cause problems??
Hope to hear from someone soon..
Ps: the picture below shows the two leads that I'm supposed to connect to the Battery if it makes sense to anyone