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Last week I didn't use the IS250 at all and it was parked up for 10 days.Usually I do 400 miles a week.

When I tried to start it on Monday it cranked over reasonably fast a couple of times but wouldn't start.

I know its still on the original Battery (2007) which hasn't caused any problems as such but I suspect it'll be getting weak with age so I tried a jump start and it spluttered into life and after a quick rev it ran perfectly on my 40 mile motorway commute to work. It started OK on my way home but about 10 miles into the journey home the VSC light and the EML lights came on along with the warning triangle and a "check VSC" message in the display.

A friend popped over with his OBD scanner (Bluetooth to phone app) and read ad cleared the codes. One of the codes was RH oxygen sensor i think We took it for a short spin and no codes re-appeared. 

This morning the car started fine and was OK all the way to work. Again, coming home at about 10 miles into the journey the same lights came on.

Is this likely to be the Battery on the way out or is there some known issue?

Any advice gratefully received.

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Batteries chuck loads of different fault codes. Just replaced my original Battery, 12 years old . My car started, moved a short distance and did not start again.

I would get it checked, Halfords and the likes will check it for you.

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I would also check the alternator to make sure that it is charging OK.

 

Dec.

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10 hours ago, Tyre Tread said:

I know its still on the original battery (2007)

That's your problem.

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Thanks for the replies.

I'm pretty sure it's not the alternator as its reading 14+ volts when running and around 12 when engine off. 

I'll get the Battery checked and hope it's that.

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I'm trying to find a replacement Panasonic type 068 with CCA>600Ah but am failing miserably.

I know the Bosch or Yuasa batteries are a good alternative but would like to stay Panasonic if possible.

Anyone else managed to source one?

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Alternator seems good.

Yuasa bought out the Panasonic lead acid Battery business some years ago so I'm not sure if Panasonic branded automotive batteries are still available.

Yuasa specify a choice of two batteries for the IS250,  Models YBX3030 and YBX7030. 

As far as I can tell the 7030 model is virtually identical to the original fit Panasonic Battery but comes at a price  --  recommended retail in the UK of circa £250.

Have a look here:  www.yuasa.co.uk

Dec.

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Wow 250 beer tokens for a non-stop/start Battery no way....

+1 on getting a new Battery before trying to fault find any codes,

your 2007 Battery will not last many more days and is telling you in advance before you get proper stuck at the most inoperative time.

I have got and recommend ( along with others on here) getting the Bosch S4 for about £85, check this thread here:

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/107731-best-12v-battery-for-is250/

Note the bit about on-line retailer sites search boxes not coming back with this Bosch but I and others can assure it does fit, snug, but it does fit!

paul m.

ps you will not be able to get a Panasonic Battery anymore :(

 

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Got a Yuasa one to replace my Panasonic,cost was around a hundred quid or thereabouts 😊

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5 minutes ago, scudney said:

Got a Yuasa one to replace my Panasonic,cost was around a hundred quid or thereabouts 😊

Thanks everyone.

Sidney, may I ask where you sourced your Battery please?

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The standard Yuasa YBX3030 is a 70ah, ( CCA570)  Battery and has a recommended retail of £128 though I'm sure it can be purchased for much less.

I believe that Halfords now sell Yuasa instead of Bosch.

Dec.

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If you are looking for a Battery the one you want that's a reasonable price if you shop around is the Bosch S4 type 068

It fits correctly and the Battery poles are the correct way round for the car. A lot of members here will recommend this Battery. You can find them between £85 to £104 if you shop around.

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Mine is the Yuasa Hsb 030 - 5 year Guarantee. From Holfords i have a trade card so 20% off so not so bad.

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On 5/2/2019 at 1:30 AM, madasahatter said:

Mine is the Yuasa Hsb 030 - 5 year Guarantee. From Holfords i have a trade card so 20% off so not so bad.

Thought I'd post an update.

Firstly thanks for all of the helpful information to you all, much appreciated.

I noticed GSF were having a 60% off sale so I ordered the Yuasa Hsb 030 as above and it fits wee if a wee bit taller and  couple of millimetres narrower than the original. Ended up paying £75.19 inc VAT so not too bad.

Once fitted i took the car for a short run and checked for fault codes (and pending) but all clear so fingers crossed for next week when I do my daily commute.

 

 

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On 5/1/2019 at 8:42 AM, Herbie said:

That's your problem.

No it wasn't apparently.

New Battery fitted on Sunday and on my journey to work this morning the lights are back on 😭

Wasted £75 on a Battery.

 

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8 hours ago, madasahatter said:

Have you cleared the codes, since replacing the battery.

Yep. I cleared them again leaving work tonight and I'll be they're back tomorrow.

The codes its throwing up are P2197 and P0158 which point to the left bank O2 sensors BUT the dash is also saying "Check VSC" and I can't see the two being connected.  

 

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If you read the VSC error code you will probably find it is C1201/51 which means there is an ECU malfunction/error which puts the VSC system into a failsafe non-operating mode.

Fix the engine issue and the VSC error will clear.

 

If the issue is power/battery related then check your earth straps are in good condition. Test for 12v on an engine sensor and use the block as a ground to make sure the engine sensors are getting a good supply.

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5 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

If you read the VSC error code you will probably find it is C1201/51 which means there is an ECU malfunction/error which puts the VSC system into a failsafe non-operating mode.

Fix the engine issue and the VSC error will clear.

Thanks Colin, good to know.

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Do a bit of digging on this forum - i am pretty sure all of the lights are all connected but don't specifically interpret the issue all that well - from what I can remember when my sensors went, although they were the bank 2 ones, traction control / check VSC and engine light came on. I read the codes and it did point to the bank 2 sensors. Bank 2 are in the engine bay and there are two of them. Bank 1 are downstream on the actual exhaust, again two of them which you can see if you look at the exhaust towards the two cats. I have not had any experience in replacing these, generally owners have had no issue with these (haven't seen anyone post anything regarding their failure) but I guess as they are open to the elements and the fault being thrown up is directing you to them, it would be an easy check to see if they are not damaged by something that hit them just to rule damage out (if you can get under the car to inspect them?)

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48 minutes ago, is200 Newbie said:

I read the codes and it did point to the bank 2 sensors. Bank 2 are in the engine bay and there are two of them. Bank 1 are downstream on the actual exhaust,

Bank 1 and bank 2 refer to the different sides of the engine V. Bank x Sensor 1 is upstream and Bank x Sensor 2 is downstream.

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6 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Bank 1 and bank 2 refer to the different sides of the engine V. Bank x Sensor 1 is upstream and Bank x Sensor 2 is downstream.

Colins right .... Its my age, and that's my excuse !!

Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 are located in the engine bay

Bank 1 Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 are located on the exhaust

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Cheers for the additional info.

There are 2 codes coming up from memory P0158 & P2157 which indicate the two sensors in bank 2. 

A friend who builds F1 engines suggested the sensors may be fouling up as I do lots of motorway cruising and a good Italian tune up may clear them. Couldn't try it yesterday due to bad weather but might give it a go tonight.

If that fails I'm reluctant to change both sensors in case the upstream one is affecting the fuelling which may be showing as a problem in the downstream sensor. 

Anyone know if that is s likely scenario?

Also, best place to get a sensor(s) if I need them?

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Bank 2 Sensor 1 is a bit fiddly to replace but its is totally doable - I replaced one on my old IS that failed. Occasional fault codes coming on and off then staying on permanently. You wont burn off any fouling on it as you will see when its removed. A failed one looks like a shiny black film on the sensor body. Cant see how that can be burnt off to be honest.

I have not done the downstream one (sensor 2, but I suspect it is sending a fail message back to the ECU as the Sensor 1 is failing and the sensor 2 is trying to compensate for this. Not sure but you could be lining yourself up for cat damage if its not looked at.

I have, along with other owners, purchased sensors from the states (Rockauto) as you can get the correct spec ones - only use the genuine Denso ones - dont ebay it as they could be fake and wont last or give you issues fitting or removing.

What mileage has your car done as they generally start to fail at around 70k. If you do suspect the sensors then you are looking at around 2 weeks delivery so it is not a quick process in purchasing these for immediate replacement.

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Hi Alan,

Is it P2157 as in today's post or code P2197 as in a previous post?

P2157 is fuel injector related and opens a new can of worms.

If it is P2197 then I would check very carefully around the inlet manifold to ensure that there is no air leak.

Both the upstream sensors  (Sensor 1) on bank one and bank two are the same so it may be possible for you to switch them over and see if the fault code changes bank. If it does this would indicate that the upstream sensor is at fault. I imagine that the downstream sensor is throwing a code as a result of your primary problem.

Lexuspartsdirect.co.uk list the air/fuel ratio sensor at £170 but I'm sure Rockauto would come in with a Denso sensor at a much more reasonable price.

Dec.

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