Front Track Rod End Ball Joint

[RichieRrich]

Hi all... just registered. Recently bought a mark 3 LS400 1995.

as the topic title.... is there another name for this part? this was given as an advisory on the recent

MOT .... wondered if it is the same as front upper wishbones also known as control arms?

yours, rather confused........

Rich.

[JellyBean]

Hi all... just registered. Recently bought a mark 3 LS400 1995.

as the topic title.... is there another name for this part? this was given as an advisory on the recent

MOT .... wondered if it is the same as front upper wishbones also known as control arms?

yours, rather confused........

Rich.

Welcome! Track rod is on end of steering, whereas wishbone is on the suspension. Someone more cleverer than I will no doubt put up some pics for you.

[TigerFish]

They are sometimes called tie-rod ends, but not wishbones or control arms as far as I have heard. In the picture below, it is the balljoint you can see by the axle stand with the castlellated nut on it. basically, it is how the steering rack connects to the hub. Much, much cheaper to replace than the wishbones etc. :)

[RichieRrich]

... many thanks! :)

Rich.

[Mike Floutier]

They are sometimes called tie-rod ends, but not wishbones or control arms as far as I have heard. In the picture below, it is the balljoint you can see by the axle stand with the castlellated nut on it. basically, it is how the steering rack connects to the hub. Much, much cheaper to replace than the wishbones etc. :)

Sorry to butt in on this thread but I'm trying to adjust my tracking and I can't loosen the locknut on my track rod ends (using wd40 and a pair of spanners); I've tried so hard I've got bruises in my palms today.

Any ideas? Would heat help?

THanks

Mike

[M.IQBAL]

mike i might be wrong but the last time i had mine done the guy used a blow torch to heat something and then loosen it???

[madasafish]

I use a stilson wrench and a heavy (3kg) lump hammer. The shock impact of the hammer makes all the difference.

Hammers are also great for loosening very tight nuts (150ftlbs+) and avoid the use of pipewrenches.. You do need very good fitting sockets/ spanners or stilsons though.

Heating will help but there is a LOT of metal to heat.

[NEV72]

I use a stilson wrench and a heavy (3kg) lump hammer. The shock impact of the hammer makes all the difference.

Hammers are also great for loosening very tight nuts (150ftlbs+) and avoid the use of pipewrenches.. You do need very good fitting sockets/ spanners or stilsons though.

Heating will help but there is a LOT of metal to heat.

Try regular dousing of the nut with coca-cola. beleieve it or not can loosen a rusty, heat treated nut and bolt, a trick I learned working on power stations when we couldn't find ant realease oil, also using longish tubes over the spanners therefore extending leverage, might just crack it (lol) hope this helps Nev :winky:

[steve2006]

They are sometimes called tie-rod ends, but not wishbones or control arms as far as I have heard. In the picture below, it is the balljoint you can see by the axle stand with the castlellated nut on it. basically, it is how the steering rack connects to the hub. Much, much cheaper to replace than the wishbones etc. :)

Sorry to butt in on this thread but I'm trying to adjust my tracking and I can't loosen the locknut on my track rod ends (using wd40 and a pair of spanners); I've tried so hard I've got bruises in my palms today.

Any ideas? Would heat help?

THanks

Mike

This may or may not sound like a funny question but you say you are adjusting your tracking?

I take it you have the necessary alignment equipment to do so as it normally needs such to accurately set the tracking.

Applied Oxy/Acet heating normally does the job of loosening the trackrod adjustment

[chunkz]

just take it to crap fit and let them do it. let them have all the trouble.

[Mike Floutier]

Thanks Guys,

Chunkz, the last time I took a car (my old Scorpio) to have it done "properly" they set it by the right amount but "toe-out" instead of "toe-in" - wore the tyres out in no time but on the inside so harder to spot. That was when I decided to learn how to do it myself and was amazed at how accurately and effectively I could do it with just a long straight piece of wood and a ruler. Tell me, do the experts take measurements with the wheels in different rotational postions to get an average - I think not.

NEV72, I too was concerned about extension bars doing damage, in any case my 19mm was starting to open so I guess I need to invest in some "professional" spanners.

Madasafish, I'd like to try the Hammer technique BUT I'm a bit puzzled about what to hit against. I didn't want the ball joint taking strain AND couldn't see how else to brace the track rod end OR the inner track rod against the hammer blow. ADVICE needed here please.

Thanks again.

Mike

[NEV72]

Thanks Guys,

Chunkz, the last time I took a car (my old Scorpio) to have it done "properly" they set it by the right amount but "toe-out" instead of "toe-in" - wore the tyres out in no time but on the inside so harder to spot. That was when I decided to learn how to do it myself and was amazed at how accurately and effectively I could do it with just a long straight piece of wood and a ruler. Tell me, do the experts take measurements with the wheels in different rotational postions to get an average - I think not.

NEV72, I too was concerned about extension bars doing damage, in any case my 19mm was starting to open so I guess I need to invest in some "professional" spanners.

Madasafish, I'd like to try the Hammer technique BUT I'm a bit puzzled about what to hit against. I didn't want the ball joint taking strain AND couldn't see how else to brace the track rod end OR the inner track rod against the hammer blow. ADVICE needed here please.

Thanks again.

Mike

Thinking about it further Mike, if and when you do loosen the castillated nut, you'll probably need a ball joint splitter, which if I remember rightly is a wedge shaped chisel with a slot running down the middle of it. Heating it up is something I'd try and leave as a last resort, as any exccessive heat on the joint would have a tendancy for it to become tempered,making it more brittle and I'd rather something bend on any harsh impact than snap. Anyway Tony from W.I.M may just read this thread and put us right, I'll bet he's done thousands.Nev

[chunkz]

never said kwik fit were good,hence calling them crap fit.

[Haylands]

That was when I decided to learn how to do it myself and was amazed at how accurately and effectively I could do it with just a long straight piece of wood and a ruler. Tell me, do the experts take measurements with the wheels in different rotational postions to get an average - I think not.

Mike

Mike

Good on you and well done for bothering to learn it, I used to do it myself and I'll agree it is easy when you know how, I don't do it anymore simply for the reason you are asking on here.... nuts too tight (very painfull )

For your info the latest 4 wheel laser alignment systems do now measure the castor/camber and toe with the wheels in different positions and give a before and after print out so you know they have set it correctly

Had mine done at WIM and I can recommend them if you get totally stuck with yours (it's always much easier to get it undone when it's on a lift as well)

Good luck

(Do you want to buy mine and have a matching pair!!!!!)

Pete

[Steviewevie]

I second the recommendation to get WIM to do it. They have all the latest equipment to do your tracking and full geometry if you want it, and they will be able to set it a lot more accurately than you can with a piece of wood and a ruler (e.g. when they were doing mine, you could see the readings on the computer varying slightly with no-one touching the wheels - Tony said this was the effect of the wind blowing on the sensors ).

I have no idea on the technicalities but I'm sure Tony will be able to tell you why there's no need to take readings with the wheels in different rotational positions.

WIM also look like they're a pretty short trip for you - Chesham !

[Nitmoi]

My local garage recommended a spray on called "Cracker" or something like it.

[Mike Floutier]

Thanks Guys,

Yes WIM are just around the corner from me, in fact we moved here from Chesham a few years ago and our old house is literally a stone's throw away. I have spoken with WIM recently and will be getting the whole geometry/bushing thing looked at probably around 250,000 miles which should be in 2010 as I'm only on 155k at the moment.

I think I'll buy some long, strong spanners and have another go the next time I have the car up in the air; BTW, speaking of jobs while car is in the air, can anyone tell me how to change the diff. fluid? Is there an easily accessible drain plug or does it need to be syphoned out?

REgards,

Mike

[Nitmoi]

http://swiftmtc.com/products/penetrating-o...-nutcracker.asp

Maybe this is it.

[Haylands]

Thanks Guys,

Yes WIM are just around the corner from me, in fact we moved here from Chesham a few years ago and our old house is literally a stone's throw away. I have spoken with WIM recently and will be getting the whole geometry/bushing thing looked at probably around 250,000 miles which should be in 2010 as I'm only on 155k at the moment.

I think I'll buy some long, strong spanners and have another go the next time I have the car up in the air; BTW, speaking of jobs while car is in the air, can anyone tell me how to change the diff. fluid? Is there an easily accessible drain plug or does it need to be syphoned out?

REgards,

Mike

Mike

Pete

[Mike Floutier]

Thanks Guys,

Yes WIM are just around the corner from me, in fact we moved here from Chesham a few years ago and our old house is literally a stone's throw away. I have spoken with WIM recently and will be getting the whole geometry/bushing thing looked at probably around 250,000 miles which should be in 2010 as I'm only on 155k at the moment.

I think I'll buy some long, strong spanners and have another go the next time I have the car up in the air; BTW, speaking of jobs while car is in the air, can anyone tell me how to change the diff. fluid? Is there an easily accessible drain plug or does it need to be syphoned out?

REgards,

Mike

Mike

Pete

Thanks Pete, you're a star!

[madasafish]

ADVICE ..free!

To brace against the hammer impact. Take another stilson. Connect to rod but so it reists twisting action.. place end on top of a jack/axle stand.

So what you end up doing is using a hammer to move the nut and another stilson to prevent the tie rod bar from rotating. (stilson or moel wrnech --- very vry tight).

Cocal cola is expensive. I find a bath in VINEGAR works better.

A 24 jhour soaking is best or more... Use a plastic bag wrapped round a small sponge full of vinegar wrapped round joint).

Sponges : 30p from Morrisons Supermarkets for a car washing sponge....

Vinegar: best recycled from empty pickled onion jars. Also good to mix with washing water in bucket when washing car: leaves windows and paint smear free.. Alos washing household windows...

I was not brought up in Aberdeen for nothing... :-)

[madasafish]

ADVICE ..free!

To brace against the hammer impact. Take another stilson. Connect to rod but so it reists twisting action.. place end on top of a jack/axle stand.

So what you end up doing is using a hammer to move the nut and another stilson to prevent the tie rod bar from rotating. (stilson or moel wrnech --- very vry tight).

Cocal cola is expensive. I find a bath in VINEGAR works better.

A 24 jhour soaking is best or more... Use a plastic bag wrapped round a small sponge full of vinegar wrapped round joint).

Sponges : 30p from Morrisons Supermarkets for a car washing sponge....

Vinegar: best recycled from empty pickled onion jars. Also good to mix with washing water in bucket when washing car: leaves windows and paint smear free.. Alos washing household windows...

I was not brought up in Aberdeen for nothing... :-)

[simontaylor]

And here too.......

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/diffchange.html

different generation, but normally very similair.

[Mike Floutier]

Thanks guys, that's also very useful.

Much appreciated,

Mike