To Wax Oil Or Not ?

[Woody123]

Just had MOT, Passed OK

£25 at Kwik Fit Chesterfield, Excellent service and very helpful technician.

Technician advised to have underneath Wax Oiled.

Is it worth doing and anyone got an idea of cost ???

[ColinBarber]

personally I wouldn't have thought it necessary on that age of vehicle unless something has damaged the factory coatings. All Toyota/Lexus vehicles have very good anti rust protection on them.

[ROYT]

Plenty of snow and salt in Derbyshire!

My 1990 Merc is corrosion free, Waxoyled !

Worth the cost or DIY

[Tyrosman]

A fair proportion of the chassis underside appears to be protected by (plastic/fibre?) underbody shields. Whether it is worth removing these shields to spray underneath is debateable. Many years ago I used to spray the undersides of my cars with waxoil using a pump up garden sprayer, a messy job but quite effective. At least it will do no harm and waxoil is not bad stuff to handle. I don't think it contains harmfull chemicals but I would recommend using a facemask & goggles when spraying.

Hi Roy, those older Mercs seem to go on forever. I friend of mine has a P reg. C series which he is still clocking up the miles. It has been just about fault free all the time he has had it. According to reports the modern versions are not so reliable. Same appears to go for BMWs, I kept a 1990 5 series model that was fault free for 16 years and only really let it go as I was bored with it. Again the modern equivalents appear not to be so reliable. I part exchanged the BMW for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, I liked the vehicle, except for the sloppy steering, but the reliability was a disaster.

[lurch]

Just done my cars again this year with waxoyl and would recommend doing it. £21.00 5 ltrs from wilco and used a electric sprayer from eBay like this 130925012152 (item number ) just leave tin in sun or warm slightly and spray away. No need to thin. Tip remainder back into tin and spray a little white spirit through it and ready for next time.

[CJHYBRID]

Quite surprised to find quite a few red rust areas underneath the car and the amount of rust on the casts on the brake calipers. The car has been stood for a while prior to purchase and am sure over the winter so perhaps expected.Its the first car I have ever owned that I have been able to get underneath without a ramp.Have done quite a lot with Hammerite rust converter and its made a big difference.

Sure this is already a well Oiled subject on here but does anyone have any experience of rustmaster.I am seriously considering spending £500 to have the proffesional waxoil treatment. Anyone used these guys they are supposedly the best in the country with one operation in the south and one in the North.

My thinking is that I want to keep Lexi for a least five years all things being equal (anyone reading my previous posts will know that mileage and age does not concern me) Thats me and the car! To protect now is probably the right time to do it.

Any views and particularly experience of Rustmaster would be much appreciated.

Chris

[DanD]

£500 is a lot of money!

Are you confident you will get that back one way or other?

[Duncan Roberts]

Are you really expecting it to corrode - we never read of problems with even the oldest Mark 1s..........

[ColinBarber]

Are you really expecting it to corrode - we never read of problems with even the oldest Mark 1s..........

I agree. Inspect the underside once or twice a year in case any protection has been damaged otherwise leave alone. Japanese cars from the last 20 years, especially Toyotas, don't rust unless the factory protection has been damaged.

For internal rust going to the outside you have the 12 year warranty provided you have a service history.

[CJHYBRID]

Thanks Gents food for thought .

Will ponder.

Chris

[Cymro]

Sure this is already a well Oiled subject on here but does anyone have any experience of rustmaster.I am seriously considering spending £500 to have the proffesional waxoil treatment. Anyone used these guys they are supposedly the best in the country with one operation in the south and one in the North.

Have had Merc and Motorhome treated by Rustmaster at Knutsford within the last year. For underside they use a black Waxoyl which is only available to trade; used on oil rigs etc. Rustmaster hot wash the underside to start - and I was given a demo whereby a patch on the side of their out-doors spraying ramp, which had been painted some time ago with black Waxoyl, was blasted at close range with the lance jet - to no effect. Good stuff. Depot is on a farm. They'll run you into Knutsford for the day.

Send me a PM if you need any more info.

Cymro

[CJHYBRID]

Thanks Cymro for long term peace of mind with subframe and also body panels I am seriously thinking this to be a good long term move..

Chris

[Cymro]

Thanks Cymro for long term peace of mind with subframe and also body panels I am seriously thinking this to be a good long term move..

Chris

That was my thinking, as we intend to keep both vehicles for the long term. Merc was new when treated, and has taken over from the RX as the daily runabout family car (because it's twice as economical as the RX). Motorhome already 14 years old, but on VW chassis and with excellent 2.5tdi engine. Had it from new, and want to keep it at least another 5 years.

Peveresely, however, I havene't had the RX treated, mainly because it's 11 years old; only does 2Kpa; and lives in our garage. Thus far it shows little sign of rust - and I can't really justify £500 on a car which can't be worth very much. And Knutsford's a long way from Cardiff - albeit a nice place for a day out!

[ColinBarber]

here is some info on the factory treatment

m_bo_0008.pdf

[CJHYBRID]

Thanks Colin that's pretty extensive treatment.

As said though quite surprised at the amount of rust on the metal areas under mine the subframes brackets etc at 8 years old a professional clean and retreat will surely stand it in good stead for another 5 or more.

The castings on the brake calipers and dishes behind are pretty rusty.Have started to do these with Hammerite rust converter.

Chris

[billygarrett]

I had a Saab 9000i for 17 years from new. I Waxoyld it after a couple of years and never had a spot of rust underneath. The bottom of some parts of the doors went a bit rusty, as I hadn't treated all parts of them.I even treated parts of the exhaust and it lasted 11 years!.

Wunderfull stoooof!!

The garage told me that Saab needed new brake disks after 2 years. I said no thanks!!!

I finally changed them after 16 years 'cos they were getting a bit thin by then after several skims!!!! Not to be recommended unless you are an engineering machinist with a micrometer!!

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

[ColinBarber]

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

not really sure I understand the issue here, can you clarify please?

[billygarrett]

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

not really sure I understand the issue here, can you clarify please?

Probably off topic, but I was talking about the lack of rust on the body of my RX400h but how badly and quickly the brake calipers get rusted up. Sorry for the confusion!

[ColinBarber]

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

not really sure I understand the issue here, can you clarify please?

Probably off topic, but I was talking about the lack of rust on the body of my RX400h but how badly and quickly the brake calipers get rusted up. Sorry for the confusion!

What I didn't understand was the need to replace the discs - a bit of surface rust on the callipers doesn't stop them operating, and rust on the braking surface will quickly be removed once the vehicle is used. Rust will form on the non braking part of the discs but those areas can be painted to stop that happening.

[billygarrett]

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

not really sure I understand the issue here, can you clarify please?

Probably off topic, but I was talking about the lack of rust on the body of my RX400h but how badly and quickly the brake calipers get rusted up. Sorry for the confusion!

What I didn't understand was the need to replace the discs - a bit of surface rust on the callipers doesn't stop them operating, and rust on the braking surface will quickly be removed once the vehicle is used. Rust will form on the non braking part of the discs but those areas can be painted to stop that happening.

But mine are very BAD!!!!! Deep grooves due to stickuing pads... Oh dear!!!!

[billygarrett]

I have gone through 3 pairs of rear disks on my RX400h, 'cos they kept rusting up due to calipers seizing andme not having a lathe any more...but I have just bought one now :)

not really sure I understand the issue here, can you clarify please?

Probably off topic, but I was talking about the lack of rust on the body of my RX400h but how badly and quickly the brake calipers get rusted up. Sorry for the confusion!

What I didn't understand was the need to replace the discs - a bit of surface rust on the callipers doesn't stop them operating, and rust on the braking surface will quickly be removed once the vehicle is used. Rust will form on the non braking part of the discs but those areas can be painted to stop that happening.

But mine are very BAD!!!!! Deep grooves due to stickuing pads... Oh dear!!!!

PS, I should explain that the calipers (mainly rear) seize up regularly leaving one side of each disk to rust severly and the other to operate to a small extent. And, no, I don't live in a harsh envrironment but in North Yorkshire, where I can drive carefully without having to use my brakes a great deal while allowing the regeneration to do most of the braking!!!

[ColinBarber]

ah ok, I understand. It's really a side effect of the regenerative braking unfortunately. If you are careful on your brakes then the rear mechanical brakes get very little use indeed, most of the braking being performed by the electric motors, and therefore you can get the situation that you are experiencing. With no use they corrode up :(

[CJHYBRID]

Colin can this be avoided by applying a different driving technique or is it just something we have to live with?

Chris

[ColinBarber]

preventative maintenance - once a year check that the sliding pins actually slide and are not seized. Re-grease if required.

[CJHYBRID]

Thanks Colin

Chris