Oops! Snapped Off ..

[Ruud]

Snapped one of the front wheel studs off today :(

Does anyone know if this is a 'normal' bolt that can be replaced, or is this stud magically married to the hub?

If normal bolt, anyone know the size?

[cruisermark]

hi

don't quote me on this - IIRC I read steve telling a member who was in the same position to remove the brake disc and to tap out whats left of the broken stud and just replace.

lets what other replies you get

[Rupert Dubreaux]

Hi Rudy ,you need something like this to replace your broken stud any old bolt will not do .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WHEEL-STUD-BOLT-HAIRPIN-LEXUS-IS-GS-RX-LS-TOYOTA-SUPRA-SOARER-RAV4-REIZ-PICNIC-/261502866793?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3ce2c91569

Marks instruction for removal of whats left is right .

You didn't go to quickfit by chance .

[Ruud]

No kwikfit :)

I have only myself to blame.

Maybe I should stop lifting weights :)

[mr2lad]

As above removal is correct.... I had to replace 1 after having porridge and snapping 1 on mine off a few years back

[Adam Evans]

90942-02070 is the part number of the stud you need

Looks like they are about £3 each from Lexus

[aly-g]

torque wrench should always be used for tightening wheel nuts, saves cracking your alloys or stretching the wheel studs !

Allan

[Ruud]

And it was a torque wrench that snapped it right off.

[steve2006]

76 ft/lb ?

Dumped my scrapper now or you could have had one, at £3.00 better buying new perhaps.

Yes disc off, insert new one in from rear of hub,thread the wheel nut on and tighten to recommended torque to locate in the splines then remove nut,stud should remain in place then reassemble.

You weren't using one of those expensive Snap-Off torque wrenches was you :)

Metal fatigue, at least it wasn't a Boeing 737 maingear brace securing bolt!

[aly-g]

After having my car serviced I had to remove the wheels to check rear caliper pins, I knackered my wheel brace trying to undo the wheel nuts , bloody wheel air guns are a pain in the wrong hands, your stud does look like fatigue ....

Allan

[Adam Evans]

do you think you can knock them out and then back in again without physically taking the hub off the car

Reason I ask is because I still have a TERRIBLE brake wobble and I have a feeling I didn't wire brush the hubs down good enough therefore making my discs not sit square (or round!!!) so what my plans are are to knock all the bolts off so I have a flat surface and get a wire wheel on the go

[TigerFish]

Hub shouldn't need to come off, just the disc.

Sent from my Iphone using Lexus OC

[Titch LS]

Adam, your terrible brake wobble could be due to a sticking front brake caliper, or, your discs have patches of hardened brake dust 'welded' to them due to heat which causes the pads to 'grab' on and off. Discs don't warp as is usually thought. Try some REALLY heavy braking and see if there is a difference. It reduced my 'wobble' a lot. Got this info and tip from a brake specialist.

[Titch LS]

Ruud, did you have your torque wrench set at 103 Nm?

[aly-g]

If you didn't have a wheel wobble before the stud snapped then it's probable out of balance, did you take the disc off the hub then replace disc 180 degrees out on the hub ? This could make a differance , if it's only when you brake then it could be sticky caliper, did you check the slide pins when you removed the caliper ?...... You should be able to knock the studs out without taking hub off , when replacing them you push them through the hub as far as you can , then put a wheel nut on to pull the stud all the way through, the stud has splines on it to stop it turning in the hub..hope this helps...

Allan

[Adam Evans]

Adam, your terrible brake wobble could be due to a sticking front brake caliper, or, your discs have patches of hardened brake dust 'welded' to them due to heat which causes the pads to 'grab' on and off. Discs don't warp as is usually thought. Try some REALLY heavy braking and see if there is a difference. It reduced my 'wobble' a lot. Got this info and tip from a brake specialist.

Tried this and it didn't really help too much

I have spoken to the local lexus specialist and he said in the 15 years he has been independant and the numerous years before that when he worked at lexus he has NEVER had to replace the bush in the lower suspension arm. Only ever the FRONT lower suspension arm which goes.

I then explained that my discs were new and were fine for the first 1000 miles and then the brake wobble came back and he said it will be to do with the disc not sitting flat on the hub and rubbing against a caliper because of this and its basically cockeyed

To test this I jacked my car up and spun the wheel and the caliper sticks on a certain part of the disc and then frees off. When I say stick I mean ever so slightly so I feel that this specialist may be talking sense.

The discs are under warranty anyway so I will get them swapped over and really clean up the hubs so I can see my face in them

[Maduggo]

I had a similar problem on a motorcyle with 1 or both front discs.

Spin the wheel and the disc rubs the pads in only a certain spot. You could hear and see the difference in the disc after using brake disc cleaner from the non rubbed area.

I completely removed both discs from the wheel and cleaned the mating surfaces, i replaced both cleaned discs, torqued up and spun the wheel, no rubbing.

Conclusion i made was that the discs 1 or both were not sitting exact as they should creating a very slight wobble.

I did replace the discs and pads after as they did look worn, did the same cleaning again and no brake rub.

[Adam Evans]

Just found a cracking link for you

It's off a Celsior in Japan looking at putting spacers on the wheels therefore needing longer bolts put in

Just keep pressing next to see the process

http://celsiorup.com/custom20/LongHubBolt/page_thumb1.htm