normski2

If you don't know much about the 250 it would be worth taking a read through this. Forewarned is forearmed. I think they're super cars, but, I'll admit I am a bit biased.

This is as good a place to start as any I know of

Yep. I agree with all of that Dave. Wifey has the NC 3.5 PRHT version...and its automatic too! I love it as it has control paddles in a similar fashion to the Lexus. Best thing I've fitted to it so far is the Smart Top controller....brilliant piece of kit. I do the MX5 brakes every year. You're quite right about the screw in rear pistons. I have one of my dear old Dad's giant screwdrivers (used in the aircraft industry) which fits the rear piston bang on, cold chisel blade works a treat too! One of the front pins was seized completely. Used a Creme Brulee scorcher to heat up the area and it slid out easy! I took the opportunity to re-paint the calipers on the MX5 as well whilst I was there. Hers are red, as the car is silver. Cheers

It's that time again! Slide Pin Service Having used a lot of furlough time doing much needed jobs around the house. I now need to do my annual brake overhaul. Main objective here is to carefully check the slide pin movement. Clean and re-grease (with Red Rubber grease) the slide pins and get them working nicely. Naturally, while there, I checked on pad condition and pipes, etc. Out of the 8 slide pins only 2 were a little bit 'sticky'. Both sticky ones were the rear bottom slide pins. One was close to seizing. But in truth they all were needing a bit of TLC. Gave them all a thorough clean and wire-wooling and also cleaned out the bores then regreased and refitted. Cleaned all the pad spring clips, springs and the rear pad fixing pins. Gave the pads themselves a good clean and brushed the pad faces with a stiffish bristle brush. While I was doing this job I noted a few chips to the caliper paint so I took the opportunity to repaint them too. With the weather being fairly warm the paint was ok to handle in about an hour or so. Then it was simply a case of re-assemble and have a short test run after all 4 corners were finished.. Good job to have done and satisfying knowing that it's been done correctly. Next in line is the slide pins on wife's MX5!

Tank Average changes/ resets every time you top up/fill up You may see it say 46mpg briefly. Real world it be anywhere from 29 - 34mpg...... dependent on how you drive of course. On long motorway runs I've seen it steady at 38mpg. As soon as you are back in town/short runs it will drop right back.

This has happened to a few unlucky owners on here before. Yes, one of them was when it as snowing!! I think Steve is correct about the keyfob. If you had not set it then you would have no idea that it could happen. Take a read through these Personalized Settings in the attached pdf. This should give you the answer .... at Power Window Settings at numbers 8 and 9. This I think, can only be manipulated by Lexus Garage. It might be accessible via a Techstream device too if you know anybody that has one. You could put up a shout in the IS250 section and see if there is anyone near you with one who may be willing to help. Just to explain, your post is currently in the IS300 and newer 250 section. Look at the section above in the running order. Hope that helps. Or maybe a Mod could move it? IS250_LexusPersonalisedSettings.pdf

Welcome aboard! These two posts are a good place to start. It would be worth your time to take a good read through. They are, from my experience, very reliable and altogether rather splendid motors.

Take a scroll down though this comprehensive post. You'll see ( a fair way down) some boot struts itemised...a bit further on a link and another bit further on you will see a picture. I dare say your struts have become a little tired over the years.

May be wildly wrong..... is that one of the decals from the back of the runner end under the front seat?

Intriguing...be interesting to see how this goes. Looking forward to more posts.

Yep, as said above, that's the removable shelf. Probably just got knocked out of position.

or take a look here

There is also this in the 'How To' section. Hope it helps.

Here is a write up I did when replacing my discs and pads on a 2010 model. It's honestly not that awkward. At the end of the day...it's up to you of course... but this will give you an idea of the work involved. If it can wait a bit, hang on until Spring when it's all a bit warmer. Or, see what a good local independent fitter quotes you. Best of luck

I'm guessing you mean this?

+1...... He's spot on again.

A little oil...light machine oil or something like WD40 wouldn't be a bad idea to try. A little at a time though!! If you can, try and have a look at the mechanism to see if anything is stuck in there...leaf debris perhaps? or similar. Having oiled the area give it a few pulls back and forth to work the oil into the moving parts. Hopefully, the handle will then return to its stop position.

I have auto folding mirrors on my model. They have frozen solid several times over the years.Nothing has burnt out on mine. If they are frozen up they just do not open out. I can normally pull the window out by hand to the open position and drive to work. I get to work and push them to the folded position when I lock the car. When it has warmed sufficiently they operate perfectly. Never had anything go wrong with mine

Take a look through here. Should help you. I did get my sensors from USA though.

Yep it's what I use all the time. This may help for other bits n bobs

Nice one Ahmed I imagine there will be quite a few interested in this. Particularly now that Ashpoint does not appear to be offering the kit any more. Look forward to your write up. It may encourage me to try and do this on my son's Nissan X Trail. Nice to see you back here again. Your mod's are of great interest and always show excellent craft and attention to detail.

Do you have both keys and are they the originals? From a quick Google search:- B2799 is a fault that appears when the engine immobilizer doesn't read the transponder key. This means the key used is not programmed or the key has lost the code in it thus not being recognized by the system(Most time these are keys that are cut after loss of the original key)

Or it could have been the SE i variant that you drove. Most garages, from what I have observed, seem to wrongly (or the cynic in me thinks it might be deliberate) label the SE i as a SEL in their sales descriptions.

Here is Newbie's guide I've updated the link in the 'How To' section as well, as that had gone awry.

Yep, memory seat buttons are on the door card. A pic from a post of mine last year regarding door card removal