normski2

You sure about that? Mine is 2010 facelift SEL and has memory seats. Crucially too, it has a USB port in the armrest ... not just a phono jack as on pre facelift vehicles. Also, on the facelift version you get a HDD if you have sat nav ... and can store lots of music as mp3 files in the HDD (Hard Disk Drive)

+1 to that

+1 for the Goodyear Eagle F1.

If Lexus have ever done any work regarding the creaking dash problem there will be packers visible when the windscreen is removed. Make sure the fitter knows to leave them be.... do not remove. I think it is normal that a new gel pad should be fitted where the wiper sensor attaches to the windscreen. Check the auto wiper function after with a jug of water dribbled over the sensor.

I have the Osram Cool Blue d4s in mine. Fitted them about 2-3 years back and jolly good they were too. I kept the old ones in my spares box that goes in the boot on continental trips. Oh .... and they’re still going strong.

Sounds to me like someone at the dealership is a bit out of kilter!! Assuming you have HDD system, you should have, as its a 2010 model. You get updated via a usb drive. That can only be done at the dealership...find another!! The port is behind the dash cover. Takes about an hour, and last time I did it .... it was £160. Doubt very much the data would be updated every 6 months...that's bonkers. Map data does not change that much so go for it every 4-5 years or so. If it's got a DVD drive then you can do that yourself with a newer DVD from the likes of Ebay.

Yup ... it's loaded via USB stick. It should update the Gracenote files for your music on HDD as well.

Last time I had mine done it was £160. I would not do it every year as the updates an be negligible. I’m going with 4-5 year periods.

My rear was so bad I had to lever it with a short crow-bar to get it to move!!!

I'd hazard a guess and suspect the lower pin on the rear calipers. They can be quite a toad to free up. If it is the bottom pin that's seized, get the top pin out and try to rotate the caliper back and forth until it frees up enough to be removed. If you're lucky you may be able to clean up the pin and the socket (emery cloth is good, or plain old sandpaper) it goes into, re-grease and re-assemble. Don't forget to use Red Rubber Grease for the slide pins. This guide by Noobie will give some pointers.

Yep ... it’s just prised up left and right ... gently does it!

If you want to know how to remove the door card look here This may give you some pointers if you are looking at removing the mirror itself... from the US forum Link

Bonnet was closed. I used the blade on all sides of the cap.

Yep. Did mine last spring. Prising up that plastic cap is a little tricky...but it eventually releases. A really thin bladed flathead screwdriver was what I used. Once they are off. Rub down really well and use etching primer before the finish coat. Hung mine up from a screw driven into a garage joist.

I have Mintex discs and Pagid pads all around and all is good. Still get some brake dust on front wheels but not as bad as it was.

Given that you are a new owner and you may want to do a few bits yourself. Please take a few minutes to read this before you attempt changing the cabin filter behind the golvebox. This may be useful as well Incidentally, I have 6 CD's full of Mp3's loaded in my player and they work fine. As you found ... DVD's full of Mp3's do not. Enjoy getting to know your car. I think they are quite excellent cars.

If I was going to hazard a guess.... I'd be thinking the previous owner or the garage broke this when changing the cabin filter. It's most important to put the air into Recirculate mode before attempting to change the cabin filter. When in Recirculate mode the lid covering the filter is raised. This enables easy removal of the old filter. If the lid is forced up to get at the filter then that plastic lug can be broken. Have you taken out the cover piece at the rear of the glovebox? This is where you can inspect that lid to see if it is stuck open or shut. This post will give you a guide If the lug is indeed broken you can do a repair. There is a good walk-through for a DIY repair on the US forum...it's here. All photos were lost a while back (after the photobucket fiasco), but they are re-instated now. Link Hope that helps and good luck.

Not my cup of tea at all ... sorry.

I don't have any first hand experience of Yuasa batteries myself. But a fair amount of people on the MX5 forum rate them as being very good. If all the specs for the Yuasa are the same or pretty close..including its physical size and most importantly ... the terminal positions then it should be fine. I changed my battery last year but opted for the Bosch S4 which was pretty much identical money.

Is that your new battery in that photo? If so... It does not look the right one to my eyes. I'd expect to see something like a Bosch S4 026 068. The Halfords one looks quite a lot smaller.

This link may help you. Take a look at the photos a fair way into the post. There are some showing a blown fusible link. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/692433-diy-fusible-link-removal.html and here https://www.my.is/forums/f221/anyone-had-problem-starting-is250-after-new-battery-replacement-564050/

Do you keep the old original EGR valve? If you did have a play with it and get to understand how it works and how easy it is to clean. There are quite a few good videos on Youtube. It will benefit you to do that. That piston inside needs to seat well when in closed position. When I had a 220d, way back when, I used to remove and clean the EGR every 8000 mls or so. Whilst the EGR is out of the car clean the main port into the manifold with a screwdriver and suck out all the old crud with an old hoover, if you have one. Opinion is divided on additives. But I will say from my own experiences, I used Archoil (AR6200) diesel additive at about 5-6 ml to a tank of fuel and found the amount of soot in the EGR was much reduced. Seemed reasonable to assume that the amount of soot going into the DPF will be reduced too.

Quite likely. Had that happen on a IS200 many years ago, when a friend connected his jump leads wrong way round. A right PITA to get the offending (bolted in) fuse out (think it was something like 30 or 60amp??) it was a large 20mm square or so with a clear view window on the top, from where I could see it was fried.. Bit like this I've cadged from t' web The snag was it was bolted through from underneath with a base fixing much like you can see in the background of the pic. If I remember correctly had to virtually remove the fuse box in the engine compartment to get at the fixings for the fuse. The fuse could only be sourced from Lexus back then. I was spitting feathers for many days after!!!

+1 for the Dodo juice kit. I have cream coloured leather too. A stiffish nail brush bets the best results as it gets right in and removes the dirt. You can also use the wool detergent method as that works well too. As has been said the final finish should look matt and not feel slippery (as shiny tends to) Do it on a nice warm day in the summer. Pull the seat belts right out and anchor/tie it back somewhere and give them a right good scrub too. They can come up a treat. Do them first and they'll be virtually dry by the time you've done the seats.

Sounds to me.... and this is just conjecture based on a bit of experience of working on the rear brakes/drums. My guess would be the rear parking brake shoes were binding...possibly not releasing correctly or adjusted up too tightly. This can produce a heck of a lot of friction which then causes high temperatures at the hub. The bearing grease gets cooked and before long the bearing is shot. Had you ever noticed any hot metal smells at the rear of the car or been aware of the wheels being hotter than normal? Thats bad luck that it was pulled by an MOT tester, hope you get it sorted soon.