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Front wheels have been getting gradually worse for several years and I have been looking at a full refurb. Around here you are looking at around £80 per wheel for a decent job (as opposed to a short lived tidy up) and the chances are that there are going to be flaws if the wheel was badly corroded I had previously discounted new Lexus wheels at £338 apiece......but on rechecking the Lexus site I found that they are 'on sale' now at £99 each - inc delivery Mmm. refurb @ £80 v brand new @ £99....no brainer really They arrived today all boxed and sealed in OE packaging. Well pleased . Well worth consideration by anyone with tatty wheels

I've also used Rock Auto a few times. By stabiliser bar bushes they mean Anti-roll bar bushes. Very easy and cheap job on an LS400. Had mine done a couple of years ago. Not the same as Strut bar bushes though; they are towards the front end of the car and the bar joins back to the lower control arm. Only Lexus supply them.

Just quick update - I have been driving with PWR-ON on the last 3 tanks (~1000 miles) and have not seen any difference in fuel consumption. Car is more responsive, but in other hand the mode is not as polished as standard one. I would highlight few situations where you DON'T want to be in PWR mode and I suggest switching it off: When doing 90MPH on motorway and using Auto pilot - Keeps changing to 5th gear and that obviously hurts fuel economy(whenever it is legal or not that is another question , just something I have noticed). Especially, true in heavy rain or after heavy rain in "Very Wet" conditions even in speeds 70-80MPH. Not good for rolling "without power/acceleration" e.g. what I usually do before traffic lights.. slow down in advance and then just roll to the lights and if lucky don't need to do full stop/start. Which is great for fuel economy. With PWR on that doesn't work as it automatically changes to the lower gears and stops you quicker than usual. Not good in heavy traffic when jumping the lanes. Quite obviously the fuel consumption is already high in such conditions, but PWR just kills it e.g. you jump into the free lane and accelerate, PWR drops the gear and keeps it in low for very long without any reason and then if you need to brake it drops it even further to assist braking.. something you don't want. Sometimes it seems like PWR logic just crashes and it keeps far too low gear without any reason when cruising. Switching to "S" and back to "D" usually helps in decision making (I guess for face-lifted models clicking "+" would do the trick as well). Generally, it is great for average driving conditions in city without excessive speeds as it makes car more responsive and hardly ever increases fuel consumption.

here is a link for carista http://www.caristaapp.com/ it will give you an insight into what it can do and how to use the app one great feature of the app is that the adapter is so small you can carry it with you anywhere and it will work on all obd2 compliant cars (on board diagnostics version 2) so it isn't a lexus only tool.

Well was contacted yesterday by Ray at UKTechnics as to the history of the fault and is now on the case. Standby for a good outcome. Mike.

I saw that article as well funnily enough! I plan to print that off for H&S to look at as and when they do my header install for me. Given a few owners in the States have actually tackled the header install themselves in their domestic garages, and successfully installed them, I don't see any reason why H&S or other reputable tuning garages shouldn't be able to do the job. Where we suffer is the amount of time it will take for a shop to do this as a 'one-off'. If they do a few, they will get to know the process better, and therefore take less time to do the work. You will note the garage in the article suggest 6hrs to do the complete install. It will take most garages over here double, triple, or even longer to do this in my opinion. Hopefully H&S are willing to invest some time and R&D into the IS-F as a platform for future work. Having a shop that knows how to install headers would be really useful for owners looking to gain a significant amount of extra HP. Even with tuning options slowly developing over in the States from the likes of RR-Racing, no single modification available today will generate more power than a set of exhaust headers. Given the reputation and work H&S have done over the years on some truly unique and exotic race cars, I honestly believe Ian and his team are capable of doing this for us. The issue will be whether there will be enough return in it for them to do so. I may well try and grab a set of LHD headers from one of the guys in the States for Ian to look at as well. Would give them a much larger target market if they could offer both RHD and LHD options like PPE currently do. I'm also getting Ian to look at adding an X pipe for development purposes to see if that generates any extra HP, and what impact it has on the noise level. Know a few folks have been commenting on this recently, so hopefully that will be enough for H&S to take on some work getting a better product sorted out for a wider audience.

I would imagine Paul at Whifbitz would be able to supply these for people if needed as well? Just another vendor option to consider. Paul already has a few IS-F specific products available via the shop on their website. Just thought I should point it out for the newer F owners. Here's the link: http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/lexus/is-f.html

@CharlieC Got it from Japan, http://www.nengun.com/ - Takes a little while but great service from these guys! Thanks @DT_Racing

Indeed, those look damn good and the fitment looks spot-on. Good job. I must admit when I seen the wheels earlier in the thread minus tyres and stuff I was a bit unsure about them as I thought they were all gonna be quite "flat"-looking, but now that they're on the car I can see that the rears are nice and concave. Excellent. What are the widths and offsets you have there? Would be good to know as I foresee a set of 19's in my own future, although probably not for a while...

. the simple economic fix is often used by car body shop repairers to make the whole car look shinier after sorting out a repair .... nothing like crisp bright headlamps Prior to the Mk4 they were of course simply old fashioned GLASS Malc

They look pukka mate, alloys look very nice with colour.

I do mine pretty much every 12 months or so. You can pick them up at reasonable prices too. Ebay have had them for as little as £6.

Managed to get the tyres fitted this evening and get the wheels on, these photos really don't do them justice as I was in a massive rush, the tyres are covered in goop and don't look nice, but should give you an idea of how they are going to look once the car is clean and the wheels have been prepped. 1 thing that has become very much present with the larger wheels is that I need to buy myself some Meister R's and lower it an inch or 2 further, being an F-Sport it is already an inch lower than standard but think it needs a touch more to look right. Please do excuse the awful photos the light was getting a bit dark and I was walking whilst taking them so half of them are blurred but you get the idea. Will get some proper photos soon, may not be for a couple of weeks though as any spare time now will be going on getting the diffuser sorted ready for primer and paint!

Fitted my HPS intake Tube with a Toms filter - Does seem a little more Responsive and louder! Need an exhaust now though...

So many people damage the filter cover by not knowing the correct procedure, and as you say it will be a real pain to fix, making this a great post. I've saved the diagram and will print off a copy to put in the glove box if/when I ever sell my IS250.

"Uhm" the poster is talking about a CT200. The CT 200 makes a little whirring noise as you approach the car and unlock it. It makes the same noise as you just walk up to the unlocked car and open the door.This is the brake servo activating itself.This is the mistake which people make which results in high reset/ recovery costs. Before working on the brakes this system has to be disabled. Switching the engine off has little to do with it. Because the brake servo it designed to work with or without the engine running, it really makes no difference at all whether the engine is running as to whether the servo will work. Some other hybrids do not have this system but CT200 and Prius models do. The message is still the same. Make sure that the people who are working on your car know what they are doing with CT200 models. Having worked on another type of car braking system does not automatically mean that they know what they are doing with the CT200 system. There is an article on youtube from america which details one of the solutions to this issue , however, I believe that Lexus have another technique which involves plugging the car into an expensive piece of equipment in their workshop.

Be careful about getting a non lexus/toyota source try to replace the brakes. If they don't know what they're doing the hybrid brake system will effectively lock out the system and result in a hefty recovery and reset charge by Lexus/Toyota. This is because the hybrid system accounts for the fact that the brakes need a servo even though the engine might not be running. changing the brakes whilst not totally disabling the system results in the lock out/ lock up. A surprising number of "experts" don't know about this and need those in the know to reset the system for them.

I like to get the Lexus routine service stamps in the book. However, I'll always go to a reputable independent for discs, pads, tyres etc. I'm certain the Lexus stamps aid selling on, but don't think the other stuff matters as long as it's done professionally.

This may be of interest .... this was my thoughts back in 2014 or so, I had Turanzas and Potenzas in my time on 220d and 250. Have to say ...I found them hopeless. They grip fine but boy were they noisy and the tram-lining was horrendous at times. I'm on 18" too by the way. Don't know that you can make the ride softer with 18's and 40. If you went down to a 17" or 16" with a fatter tyre then it may get softer. I must say...I don't find my ride 'hard' to the point of annoyance at all. Anyway, I now have Goodyears ...Assymetric 2's on the rear.....very pleased after some 4 months or so. On the front I went for Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2......why? Well, I read a few reviews that praised their price, grip, fuel economy, quietness and lack of tram lining. Found it to be very true. Ride is much quieter and have no tram lining whatsoever. All those regular spots on my journey to work and around town that tram-lined before have all been eradicated. Very pleased. Still very pleased with ride, grip and road noise suppression. No tram lining.

While you await try drivers.lexus.com you should find the manuals there

Mine is now 5 years old and just passed its MOT with no issues at all. They don't even have an emission test as hybrids are exempt! I'm sure the next 5 years will be the same.

Steering has developed the knock at 52.000 miles. I checked the intermediate shaft as suggested by Adam and the problem seems to be that the splined connection between the steering column and the intermediate shaft UJ has worked loose. The reason for this appears to be that during assembly they used something similar to a low tensile body bolt as a pinch bolt on the steering shaft assembly. The low tensile bolt has stretched slightly with use allowing the spline to float slightly. I simply replaced the low tensile bolt with a high tensile bolt, torqued it up to 20ftpnds and the problem was solved. No more knocking and a solid, non floating connection next to the UJ. The intermediate shaft UJ joint and the steering column shaft show no wear whatsoever.

CT 200h Premier's have full LED beam headlights not Xenon and do not have auto leveling. Level of the headlight is controlled via adjustments behind the headlamp units as with Halogen. Hope this helps!