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Stripped the rear brakes today, and I am happy to say all was good. The slide pins were free, and all that was required was regreasing with the correct grease, the parking brake drums cleared of dust, and after refitting the parking brake adjusted. Before fitting the pads they were cleaned, and treated to some copper slip on the anti rattle shims, and piston mating surfaces. Some copper slip was also applied to the parking brake cable where it exited the backplate. The only thing I found was the ball joints on the headlamp leveling system were getting very stiff. These were cleaned and lubricated so that the likelihood of the operating rod snapping is somewhat reduced. John.

Hi, This is my experience over the years.....I own 3 classic cars, and when it comes to detailing them, this is what I have learnt and can say with confidence, the right (my opinion of course) course to follow. If you want to clean leather interior in your car then spend £0.99p on Pears transparent soap. Get a soft shoe polish brush and lather the soap and apply, rinse off with a wet colth. Then get a leather feeder balm and cure it. Secondly Halfords car polish is rated the top polish in the "best polish guide on line website" cheap and very easy to use, and Mcguires Ultimate car wax is very , very easy to apply and shine. Lastly seal with a good quality sealant, I forgot the name of the one I use...too dark to go to the garage.

My guess is that it's had a crash and some fool has stuck the numbers on in the wrong order during the repair! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

As I said in a different topic: I'm not trying to come over as a 'know-it-all' because obviously, I don't, but I'm a time-served electrician by trade. When the factory closed down I became a telephone engineer on BT, and after a back injury led to medical retirement I'm now self-employed doing computer repairs. I'm also a licenced radio ham and dabble in electronics as a hobby. I mention that, not to blow my own trumpet, but just to explain that I've been in and around the electrical/electronics fields for more than 40 years. In my humble opinion (and this goes for both jump starting and charging), 12V is 12V. It just doesn't matter whether it's at the front or the back, it's still 12V and all you're doing is piggybacking one 12V source onto another 12V source. The only thing to worry about is to make sure you connect with the correct polarity. Having said all that, you can't blame me if something does go awry

The Bentley is superbly appointed inside but HUGE. I just couldn't live with the size when trying to find a parking space. The LC is bad enough with the long doors.

VHT real orange, drying on the line, then 1 hour in oven at 93c. 2 days to strip all original black powder coat and a thin coat of red I put on 2 years ago.

Amazing! Stunning colour, mate! You don’t see many RCF’s in this colour

Thank you herbs, I will give it a go tomorrow morning and will report back.

Just as Gliderpilot (post #2) is doing - I've now placed a solar panel on my dashboard, and have it plugged in (to the OBD2 port (beneath the steering wheel)) when parked up for long periods. My battery went flat in just 10 days prior to doing this!

I'm that bored, I've decided to clean my engine bay.

Just need to make a correction to this mo the parking brake release is actually fastened to the top section of the dash board ,it is the bonnet release that I think is fastened to the lower part ,it also helps access the foot pedal area if you remove the steering wheel column shroud around the stalks it is only four screws and takes a few seconds.

They will last me a lifetime the way things are going at the moment.☹️

You beat me to it Roger !

Colour is popping today 😎

With regard to removing the bottom dash panel it is a series of screws within the panel mainly at the corners and the parking brake release handle as to be unscrewed as it forms part of the fastening . I can remember this when I replaced the ignition switch which also requires dropping this panel. You will also need to lie upside down to see what you are doing it as been suggested that removing the drivers seat makes this job a lot easier .

you can get the bracket from lexus , fits with 4off 6mm bolts tapped holes already in the boot ,stops the wheel rattling about

The difficult part of your guide at the moment is finding a shop selling soap🔜😂

Crap. I mean, bird crap. It's coming YOUR way!!! 😄

That's a very open ended question. Depends on how its applied and what your trying to achieve. As mentioned what protection are you going to use after? Will you clay the car prior? Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk

They are all standard on an GS-F 😁

I wanted an NX300h but the test drive was so uncomfortable I tried a 2015 RX450h and subsequently bought a 2015 Advance. Great car which I drove for great 30,000 miles before buying my current gen 4.

I've not driven the NX so can't comment on that model. However, although I've only owned my 2015 RX450h F sport since January and covered just about 700 miles, I can say that the RX is a very impressive and seemingly capable vehicle. The RX is comfortable, quiet, has plenty of space and loads of equipment. It's a lovely place to be too .... I'd driven a Range Rover sport supercharged for the last 10 years so probably it would be an unfair direct comparison to that vehicle but I've gotten used to the RX very quickly and can definitely say that I'm very happy with my own RX experience so far and would happily recommend it. Carl

Our RX is an Advance and is very comfortable. The grunt is there if you want or need it, especially in Sport mode, but I'm more than happy to just leave it in 'normal' mode and waft about in complete luxury.

I'm on my second NX and had two different RX models over a three month period in 2018. I'm very happy with the NX, but fully accept that those who prefer to drive faster or more aggressively may not appreciate it quite so much... Personally - and I wrote this at the time - I didn't really 'get' the RX the first time I had one. I found it quite noisy, with a harsh ride and hard seats. I don't drive fast at all, preferring to waft about, so the claimed additional performance was irrelevant (I never tried it out so can't comment). That was an F-Sport. I then had a 'normal' RX Sport. Suddenly I did get it. Quieter, softer, far more comfortable - much more in line with what I expected in the first place. Tyres may have had an impact on the road noise to be fair. However, the RX doesn't suit my circumstances. The extra size meant I couldn't use some of the single track lanes around here comfortably, but more importantly my disability made it unsuitable longer term as the relationship between steering wheel, seats and pedals is just too large regardless of adjustment. Having spoken with my specialist, he says that most of the very large SUVs are often like that for those with lower limb and hip issues, the exception being the (old model) Volvo XC90. Anyway, as with most things when spending a large amount of money - do your research, take a long test drive, understand whether the additional cost is really worth it (always think about what else you could do with the money) and only then make your choice. Based on my experience I'd recommend long test drives in both an F-Sport and a 'normal' RX such as the Luxury or Sport. Have fun!

That`s why I am with LV. Glad you are covered.