Farqui

Getting sufficient access to use the tool maybe a problem tho, especially on the upper bolt(s). Pullers and presses are often to big and bulky to get into a decent position. I've spent several hours trying to free bolts that eventually had to be cut up but it's worth a try to see if you can free the bolt(s).

Good question, my bolt was locked solid into the arm so as you can see I ended up sacrificing the old arm.

I just watched a Harry's Garage video about storing vehicles and he shows a Ctek battery indicator that you can leave permanently hooked up that uses a simple traffic light system to show the state of the battery at a glance. I didn't know about these but they seem like a neat way to have a quick hook up to the charger should your battery indicate it needs a boost. They aren't expensive either 😉 https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/indicator-eyelet-m8 Has anyone use one?

Hey Sami, your issue sounds the same as I found on my rear toe link and the bolt just would not budge. I ended up chopping the arm and bolt out, then sourcing replacements. In a confined space it was not easy, it probably took a couple of hours to cut everything free. Reference thread; Replacing the control arms off could prove expensive, check RoackAuto for prices 😉 as that's where I sourced my tie rods. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

David, might the change in economy that you are noticing be due to the on-board computer being reset from the disconnected battery? Previously I expect you were seeing accumulated average mpg over many miles/days. Although when the battery is disconnected the ECU goes through a relearn process, so maybe you are actually seeing an improvement. With my inconclusive and contradictory reply, I'll duck out and go for a lie down!

Ah okay, those clips are easy to find with plenty of suppliers online to choose from. If needed, then use the 7Zap link to find the part number.

Well done sorting this out. For screws, take a look here; https://lexus.7zap.com/en/eu/lexus+rx/524210/mhu38r-awxgkw/4/8101/813211i/ The screws seem to come with other parts/covers but I suspect any small self tapper will suffice, do you have any spare kicking around?

Crumbs Andy, you've been giving that disk some beating! The disk appears to be slightly rotated and catching on the studs but even so, it shouldn't need too much 'persuasion' to release. Is the bell broken around one of the alignment screws? - can you drive a chisel between the bell and the hub to pop it off? If you have an angle grinder, then try cutting slots or wedges out on either side of the hub, to help pry it free. Good luck and let us know how you get on 🤞

Those fittings are usually tapered with broad mating surfaces, so provided they are clean then the usually nip up and seal nicely. Maybe yours has some dirt/grit trapped in there that's preventing a good seal?

The concern with driving is that if you are likely to need fuel and may come into contact with folks or touch the pump/credit card scanner/etc that might be infected. You might also have an accident that then involves the police and if it's serious the fire brigade or hospital, all of these resources are likely to be or become stretched...so why make it worse? There are many unknowns, maybe's and what if's but the concensus is it's safer to restrict your movements, so reduce the risk to yourself and others. I don't pretend to be an expert or know how this is all going to pan out but I do hope that we all get out of this fit and well.

😆

Update: our building supplies are still being delivered, a few days earlier than expected too. So I guess the building trade are still operating...

Good call John, this seems like an ideal time to catch-up on pending jobs. We have started ripping our garden apart for a fairly substantial overhaul, I ordered building supplies yesterday but I doubt they'll be delivered now. i still have plenty of prep work to crack on with tho. Swinging a pick axle has loosened up my back no end, hopefully it doesn't break me tho 😆 If I get time I intend to under seal GS and the wife's V-dub, both are 12 years old and looking crusty underneath at the moment. Thankfully I have most of the supplies for this. Keep us posted on your progress and 🤞 you can get your parts.

Well done, it looks much better now. I bet you couldn't wait to loose that nasty exhaust.

Oh yes, that's a tricky one. Keep at it and you'll eventually get the coil out. I recall unbolting the harness helped. Good luck, you can do it!

Yes it's sensible to play it safe during these odd times. How did you find replacing your trans pump bearings? So you didn't drain all of your transmission fluid, just topped it back up? I've read various ways of changing the trans fluid, via the cooler hoses or drain plug. Also doing it in stages rather than in one hit. So it gets confusing to choose which works best. Do you have any pearls of wisdom?

We are all good here thanks, how are you getting on? From the service bulletin, you filled it in the correct hole [emoji106]

I covered a few miles yesterday and the long term fuel trim is coming back to baseline, so the new resonance chamber gasket has definitely helped correct the air/fuel mixture. Hardly surprising really if it was the original 12 year old gasket. I wish I had a new throttle body gasket as that looks tired, will add one to my next RockAuto order.

The passenger side filter, is clean too Hare are all the OCV's, 3 of them are the same part number with the NS exhaust being different (see the plug location) Here are the key tools, the long 17mm wrench for the OCV filters and the long allen for the air resonator are essential

Ganesh, the OCV filters will only need replacing of they cannot be cleaned and are clogged. Regular oil changes should ensure that they remain clean.

Hia, doesn't the fill plug have WS stamoed on it?i vaguely recall this as i intend to flush mine soon. Check this handy TSB https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hybrid-technology/613725-hybrid-transmission-and-rear-diff-90k-fluid-change-2.html#post8449339

Ganesh @LexIS200Sport, the OCV filters sit within oil unions at the front of each head. These filters clean the oil going to the OCV's that control each cam timing. The 4 OCV's sit on top of the cam covers. I picked up a super long wrench so should now be able to release the NS filter. I aim to get all OVC's out/tested this afternoon so will get some pic's online later.

Hi Howard, This LS does look in a sorry state but should scrub up nicely and all credit to you for taking it on. Sounds like a great project and at that price, how could you possibly refuse. Good luck, Lee

Hey Paul, £700 😮 Bushes are <£16 each here; https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2014,rx450h,3.5l+v6+electric/gas,3306989,suspension Although knowing dealerships, they'll replace the entire lower control arms... ...which are still only £62 each here, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2014,rx450h,3.5l+v6+electric/gas,3306989,suspension,control+arm,10401 + P&P (not much). If you had someone fit them then you'd still have mucho change vs the dealer estimate.