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None of my three C class (W202 ) Mercs had illuminated light switches, but my (W210) E class has. In Stuart`s case I suppose that Lexus is still " in pursuit of perfection?"

LS400 early '93 Why didn't Lexus add lighting to the upper Air vent control wheels? Or did they? At night when you are concentrating on the road and oncoming headlights, to have to feel your way blindly to the vent controls is a pain. Not sure why they put a condom over the Hazard warning bulb either. So dim its barely visible. Just small things but Merc had lights on their Wheels or centre part from memory.

Been out in mine and they don't light up, piece of junk! Although it does have a light around the rear view mirror area that just gives a faint, almost orange glow to gently light up the cabin which I like, so its never completely dark.

the cost on the lexus website is £235. So don't accept the quote and ask them why it's £100 more? It was £185 on the website last year when I had mine done. I was quoted £235 (coincidently) and got them to price match the lexus web site. I went to Lexus Sheffield.

Ah..yes - diff oil changes do feature in the Lexus service specs - oddly, not on the Service Data Sheet within the Workshop manual. I used Redline 75W85 - the 75W85 is the name of the product as well as the viscosity spec. It meets GL5 spec. I notice that Febi Bilstein also do a 75W85 GL5 oil, slightly cheaper than the Redline. See the Opie oils web site. (other sellers have one or both - eg Demon Tweaks) Changing diff oil is a task which is somewhat poo-pooed in the motor trade (as is changing brake fluid). It's often not done and indeed, diff oil usually comes out looking pretty pristine when you do change it. The workshop manual doesn't actually cover changing it - just 'adjustment' of it. Incidentally, you really need a manual pump to do the change - it is very difficult to get even a squeezy bottle into position to inject the new oil. Always remove the fill plug before the drain (to make sure that you can) and use new washers.

Although I'd get the premium ones @ £25 ish if it was me! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I'd try and get a free check. If l'm right, and l'm 99% certain I am, you'll need a full geometry check and reset anyway once the job is done. I'm staggered to see that RockAuto list the inner tie rods for £5.06 each (plus carriage etc) Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

+1 on all the above info ( especially not turning without moving!) but for sure your next course in logically solving this abnormal behaviour definitely should be to get the cars steering geometry checked/adjusted, this should be done periodically anyway even if no symptoms are apparent to prolong the life of the tyres for a start as these will be one of the first to show abnormal conditions. note: a full alinement should include the rear wheels also, so don't let a centre just 'Track the Front end'' paul m.

Good shout @Peter P18 but these recommendations are starting to cost me ££££ and I haven't even picked up the ISF yet (collect it tomorrow). I noticed the guys at BCS are close to where I live so got a quote for wheel refurb on Monday at £330. On Tuesday I was interested and on Wednesday a 30% off email arrived in my in box. On Saturday I rang and Im booked in at £231 for all 4 wheels. Result. The deal (supposedly ends today) is pay now for the work to be done in January when they are not expecting to be busy and suited me fine. Of course I asked if they would offer similar discount if any forum members were interested and got in touch in the near future and YES They would but don't hang around as he suggested they may have been too generous with the 30%. (30% Applies to Calliper and wheel refurbs). Give them a ring and talk to Marc and mention Owners club forum if you are interested. Full calliper refurb in any colour was £550 before discount by the way. ?? maybe next January for me ??

In my experience, this sort of feeling etc is due to wear in the joints in the tie rods at the inner end. See the drawing which is, hopefully, attached. People have heard of track rod ends - that's the short bit that screws on to the tie rod. It has a ball joint which often wears, but if bushes etc have been checked these may be OK. But see the inner end - there's a joint where the tie rod screws onto the steering rack, covered by a gaiter. (NB - tie rod, track rod - same thing) I am not sure just how easily accessible the gaiter is on our cars - you may need to remove the under tray. But if you grip the gaiter with your hand and get someone to turn the steering wheel slightly, you may be able to feel obvious movement within the joint. The tie rods are easily replaced and shouldn't cost too much. (Relatively - no Lexus parts are actually cheap!) This wear is caused, IMHO, by turning the steering wheel when the car is stationary. In the days before we had power steering you almost never did this because it was too hard to turn the wheel. But power steering is very powerful so the wheel is easy to turn. Go to any high street or car park and you see people doing it all the time. It puts enormous stresses on the tie rod joints , both inner and outer ends. Don't do it, folks - make sure the car is moving, even if only slightly, when turning the steering wheel.

Yes - I too think it's torque steer, and when you first experience it, it's VERY disconcerting bordering on dangerous. When it happens during a critical overtake your first reaction is to back off - not only is this at exactly the wrong point in the overtake, but the reduction of power/torque to the front end makes it sway alarmingly in the opposite direction. I am surprised no-one has rolled their cars doing this. Mike

And so are the bums!

Yep been running for years as well. Alignment they did for £65 too.

@Herbie lol cancelled my ebay relay purchase as was going to take nearly 3wks to arrive so bought off amazon at over double the price but be here monday morning....to impatience thats me lol

Loving the transformation! Those DRL switchback LEDs you've got are expensive, more than twice the price I paid on eBay when I got them for my RX300. Anyway, if you want the wiring diagram for the switching relays just let me know. Oh, and make sure that you bolt those resistors to a good metal base to act as a heatsink because they do run hot. I used some MX2 thermal paste on the bottom of them so that there's a very good thermal transfer. Alternatively, you could buy a flasher unit specifically for LEDs like this one and do away with those resistors completely.

Ps car finish has been delayed as was expecting to pick up yesterday, but a supplier and a disgruntled ex worker (who hide some trim parts that never got colour coded and only found after rest of parts had been fitted ) so these parts still need painted up (rear headrest trim) but everything in hand now so fingers crossed for pick up a week today (only because i work away from home and not back till friday)

Sorry for all photos but am amazed at transformation from full beige interior to black and red, only parts being renewed are the leather seats and seatbelts everything else is orginal parts but been flexi plasti spray painted black popped in by yesterday to take of mrear view mirror for it to be colour coded as no one could figure out how to get it off windscreen but with a little help from neil E, ive got it off (dead simple when you know how lol) think once ive picked it up next friday (hopefully) i run it for a week or two before i park it up in my garage and start putting my parts i have in garage onto it new headlights steering wheel also get wood trim wrapped (humming n Harrington on colour to wrap yet) either going carbon effect black/silver or piano black or match it with the wine red on seats, will wait till ive got car and get some tester sheets to see what merges in with rest of interior was thinking of tint wrapping headlights but wow they look awesome as is so for time being no tint also got some DRL combined indicator bulbs to fit but will need to get a relay fitted so i can switch drls off at night time as think they will be far to bright and dazzle at night, then again maybe i wont lol

How long have you had the car? If it's a change that you've noticed then it needs further investigation. What's the tyre pressure recommendation on your car? Mine is 32psi and the front tyres look virtually flat at that, but that's what it should be. So do double check on that, might make enough of a difference. Some torque steer will always be there - everyone expects that and, occasionally, it will still surprise everyone.

The torque steer is a well known effect, you just have to learn to handle it. Don't just jab your foot down (or if you do, just be ready for it happening) but use a lighter right foot instead. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-tech/100190/what-is-torque-steer

6 wheels of American muscle.