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Yes, I think that's all correct and thanks it does look good with the gold badges. The chrome trim really stands out as well being a dark colour. When the car's paintwork has been sorted out and nice and shiny I'll post some pictures. Struggling at the moment to get it done with the weather and dark nights. The link below gives you the information on the model history and there is a buyers guide plus lots of other information as well on the site. http://ls400data.com/history.html

Yes it is, what a shame. Still, nothing lasts forever.

Ok, an update on my original post. Before I removed my cheapy ebay 5k bulbs I used a photographic light meter to measure the light output. First I measured the light output about 10ft away and then decided to measure directly in front of the light lens to save setting up the distance again when I installed the new Osram bulbs. So to cut a long story short... The ebay lights gave me the highest reading of 20.1 eV and the Osram Night Breaker Laser D4S bulbs gave me 21.5 eV. This is a good result as the Osram bulbs are over 5x times the price. I have noticed a good light output and I am satisfied with the result. I took close up pictures of both the cheap bulbs and the Osram bulbs and you can clearly see a difference in the discharge chamber shape and general quality of the bulb construction. I can certainly recommend the Osram bulbs although they are expensive, compared to cheap ebay ones you do get what you pay for in the end. In terms of comparison with the old standard oem bulbs the Laser bulb is night and day.... Now people did ask for a wright up but the bulbs are very easy to change. This time around I only removed the front radiator plastic cover where you need to push down on the plastic rivets to release them. I also removed the kneck of the windscreen washer bottle which gave access to the righthand side light. For the lefthand side you can get access to the light without removing the air filter box. A couple of tips when rotating the outside light cover which contains the light ballast built in. Just before you remove it make a mark on the housing and cover to aid easy lining up. Also the rubber gasket was very dry which makes rotation difficult. I used some o ring grease on the o ring and this made it so much easier to put back. The rest is straight forward, you have a bulb cap which rotates off with the shielded wire, the whole ballast / cover can be removed, exposing the bulb which is held in by a spring clip, push down and pull in towards the bulb on each side will release the clip which is captivated. The bulb can then be removed from the housing. Note the bulb has an insulated wire going from the base to the top of the bulb, this points to the back of the light housing when fitting. Installation is the reverse. Do not touch the glass bulb with your fingers as the grease/acid will attack the glass. Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

to adjust the tilt position put the car into reverse using the mirror pad adjust the mirror position you will know if it has worked as the mirror will return to normal position once out of reverse position i'm not 100% sure if the auto fold has to be on aswell

Been sprayed with something like waxoyl I think. Had the car since new, but did get "pit" manovoured by a truck, so maybe left over from the body shop...?

I wonder if it's because the tilted and non-tilted setting are the same? You have control (how, I cannot recall) over the position of the tilt when in reverse. Not just up and down, but left and right too. If the tilted and non-tilted are the same, no visibile change will take place. Perhaps that is it.

Thanks, I purchased a couple of rear shocks from Lexus Parts Direct, my usual garage will fit them on Tuesday for £55, total cost about £160. Here's hoping for a smoother ride.

I've had a whine for months now and it got worse in the cold weather until the charge light came on...bad alternator which my local garage has replaced. Just been for a trip to Manchester airport having got the car back on Tuesday...no whine. Will post again when I've paid the bill. She was booked in for a service and MoT anyway, she passed with no advisories. Hope that's an end to big bills!! Mark.

A quick update on my NX - and the best sort of update. It gets better the more miles I do. Now with 15k miles in 18 months, I appreciate the car more every single day. Quality is supreme, the ride compliant, and it's quiet and comfortable. No rattles, no squeaks. Economical. Practical. Great service from the dealer. I had thought I'd downsize next year, but that now seems highly unlikely. This is a car that does everything I want and more, certainly the best I've owned (and I've owned a few!). I can see this staying with me for the duration - up to 10 years or more. Why would I change something that works so perfectly? Superb. 👍

It is MG1 that starts the engine, but since this is connected to the sun wheel directly it is possible for it to assist in driving the wheels. When the ICE is running MG1 can be powered, and even made to change direction altering the effective gear ratio. In the Prius gen2 "othere Toyota variants differ slightly" MG1 can run from plus 10,000 rpm to minus 10,000 rpm with the car moving only forwards, depending on road speed and ICE rpm. I know there are two motor generators in the standard system, but I was trying to explain the basic system to "no disrespect intended here" a novice. The RX, and some GS 4 wheel drive have a third motor generator. For the RX in the rear diff there being no mechanical drive from the transmission to the rear wheels, and with the GS the front wheels are driven by a similar system. John.

Not quite true, there are in fact two motor generators at the front of the car, a larger one drives the wheels and is permanently engaged and a smaller one which is used to start he Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) and mix the power between the ICE and the Motor connected to the front wheels. So when the "Brain" calls for the ICE to start the second motor turns to start the ICE and the reaction of the ICE starting is transferred to the wheels but because it is in Park they can not turn so play in the transmission is taken up and this feels like a jerk. Even our Yaris HSD does this.

The anti squeal, and rattle shims should already be fitted. You only need to replace them if they are missing or rusted through. A smear of copper slip is recommended on re assembly. If you are doing the rears check the slide pins are free "they very common to seize", and are worth checking even if you are working the front pads. Use the correct soap based grease on the slide pins not copper slip. John.

This prompted me to look at the IS 300h fuel consumption quoted figures - the change to WLTP figures is significant. The old NEDC for my IS 300h with 17" wheel was 65.7 mpg and the new WLTP figure is 47 mpg. That is quite interesting as I have had my car 3 years and put 42K miles on it with a good mix of motorway and town driving (I purchased it at two years old at 40K miles) and my overall average mpg for that 42K miles according to the trip computer is pretty much bang on the new WLTP figure of 47 mpg. I had a NX 300h as a courtesy car a couple of months back whilst mine was in for a service as I did have an interest in getting an SUV, and although only having it for a day, I did find that to maintain the same driving style as the IS 300h required quite a bit more throttle (perhaps not surprising but the NX did feel quite a bit more sluggish to respond) and the mpg for that day was certainly lower than the IS 300h and so based on my experience of my IS 300h mpg being pretty bang on with the new WLTP, my experience with the NX 300h for a day did bear out that the WLTP of 37 mpg would be what I would achieve for the same sort of driving.

We found that 4 up with luggage drops the mileage by 3 to 4 mpg. The cold weather also drops it by 2 to 3 mpg.

The PCS you mention was an added option - on the earlier cars it will be very very rare to find. Most obvious way to see if it installed is if the front badge is made of a acrylic - the sensor lives behind it. Head unit - putting a sat nav unit in a non sat nav fitted car - dont even contemplate it, you would be better buying an SE-L with the ML system already fitted. Engines clogging up?? Some experience carbon build up - more so experienced and reported on in the USA. Maintain the car and it will look after you. Best look for the spec with the sat nav installed. SE-L has the best spec of this age.

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