ColinBarber

HIDs need to be self leveling. Bulbs need to be E marked which most non standard ones are not. Clear lens are fine, although again the lens should have the E mark on it. MOT wouldn't check any of this and the chances of getting caught are very slim and even then you would probably just be asked to remove them. The time these things are closely checked is on an SVA test.

how did I know that was coming :D

I meant what everyday driver goes around the corner with the clutch in? I guess he means everyday American drivers?

did they delete the key from the immobiliser and reprogram it?

Who does this? Go around a corner with the clutch in? You press the clutch and change gear straight away and with the electronic throttle on the IS the revs don't drop away too quickly. As for powertrain wear, transmission these days can go well over 100k without having to heel and toe. and what this that rubbish about safety? Safety is about being in the correct gear not how you get there by blipping the throttle.

here's the link: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=22370

yes did they check the runout on the wheels or just keep checking the balancing? You could always just replace the wheels one at a time with the spare - as long as you don't have more than one wheel out you should notice an improvement if it is a wheel. Otherwise you need to check driveshaft, wheel hubs, suspension bushes.

Agreed! Apart from the lack of performance, the only other part of my IS200 i dislike, is the manual box. I wish i'd of gone for an auto. ← I don't find the IS200 auto very refined. The engine is very noisy, seems the stall speed of the torque convertor is just at the wrong rpm range for the engine. The main reason the stall speed is high is because the engine lacks torque and the transmission is only 4 speed. It does has a nice fast kick down though. IS300 is much nicer.

if you have a laser unit on the way out you may run into playing problems with CD-Rs first as you only get around 70-80% signal level compared to pre-recorded CDs. CD-Rs have nothing to do with causing an ERR3. It's usage and poor mech. design. that causes that.

surely all oils are the same or similar viscocity when very hot anyway?? Bought some Magnatec 5w30 today - gonna use that Thanks for the advice guys ← There are a few reasons why this happens - number 2 being the main problem when switching on a worn engine. 1/ When fully synthetic oil were first introduced some made oil seals shrink and therefore produced leaks - these oils therefore got a bad name and although additives are now used and it doesn't happen anymore, people incorrectly believe it's still a problem. 2/ Normal petroleum based oils don't keep the engine fully clean. You end up with sludge and varnish around the engine. This can be useful because it tends to fill any little holes that appear due to engine wear. If you then introduce a fully synthetic oil this cleans away the sludge and the holes are uncovered and you get a leak. To stop this, use fully synthetic from the start and you won't get as much engine wear. 3/ Fully synthetic oils are more slipperry and have better pour capabilities at low temperatures and therefore can escape more easilly.

yes your local dealer is the best option.

If you have been using a full synth oil then stick with that otherwise a semi like GTX magnetec would be fine. If you have been changing the oil on time I wouldn't bother with a flush, or if you really want to then every other oil change.

Springs are different on the RS but that may just be on the front due to less weight so I would think IS shocks would be fine on the rear.

Not many people in the UK mod there GS let alone go for 19" wheels. Try posting on the US site, it's more common over there.

Hi I would recommend you post on the US forums rather than the UK, hopefully there is somebody in your area that can recommend somewhere. I would also post in the general forum rather than the GS forum. More people will read your post. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/

£290 although expensive is quite cheap for Lexus. I would have thought it would be at least £500. Possibly the laser signal has reduced a bit over time or the lens is dirty (lens cleaners don't always work that well). You could try and get it repaired, may be possible to up the gain slightly on the laser and clean the lens properly. Otherwise try some scrapyards. Should be able to get a unit cheaper than at Lexus.

jump starting is bad news for the electrics in the car. Should be avoided. You should check all the fuses. I remember one person has the same issue, it turned out to be the 100A fuse in the engine bay fuse box. If you need to remove that fuse there are screws holding it in place so it won't just pull out.

Very difficult to get 5w/30 in this country as it wasn't a Mobil UK product. The normal UK thing, give us less choice and charge us more! They do now do Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30. Just need to find somebody that stocks it. I would be interested to find out how you rate the oil. I've always found the 0w-40 makes the engine noisy.

Several people have had hydraulic pump failure after the vehicle hasn't been used for several weeks. It's a £2000 repair, although nobody has actually confirmed it's the pump because the dealer will only swap out the whole brake booster.

Yes you do still get partner cover. It's basically the highest RAC policy for a very good price. Cheaper than RAC even with their highest no claims discount.

What is the company name? Others may wish to consider them.

Very sad. R.I.P Ronnie.

yes you can always do better than standard fit tyres.

you said you left the key in for 6 minutes. Was that with the ignition on?

have you tried another key?