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I am 31 with coming up for 7 years NCB and I have just renewed at £560ish, 8k miles per year, garaged.

I would be inclined to blanket loads of comparison websites, tweak your excess, mileage and most importantly start date. Further in advance (think the sweet spot is like 20-25 days in the future) the better to have a reduction in price and also try the start date being end of month. I would say I generate about 20 quotes and test the variables for best outcome.

I delayed insuring my LS as immediate insurance was £400, end of the month was £179. Bargain! Obvs I know they are totally different cars, but just an example 🙂

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On 7/19/2022 at 5:12 PM, ashyk36 said:

Hey. Can I ask your thoughts on insuring a GS F. I am 34 years old, 12 years no claims, no accidents or points, parked on driveway overnight, 5k mileage over a course of the year, lowest cost on money supermarket from a reputable insurer is £1100 ( lowest cost overall is £850).

Anyone got any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks 

I pay £250 pa with Churchill. 10000 miles pa, parked on private driveway. I’m 55 with full NCB. 

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On 7/19/2022 at 5:12 PM, ashyk36 said:

Anyone got any thoughts or suggestions?

Definitely try one of the Direct Line group of companies (Direct Line, Churchill, Privilege) - they historically have good prices for the GS F, although excess can be high.

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On 7/24/2022 at 10:19 PM, ColinBarber said:

Definitely try one of the Direct Line group of companies (Direct Line, Churchill, Privilege) - they historically have good prices for the GS F, although excess can be high.

Agreed, try Direct Line because they are not on comparison websites and you can only get quotes directly from them. I've never really liked comparison websites tbh, you can often get cheaper quotes directly from the companies.

@ashyk36

I own an RCF. My insurance is around £400 per year with Admiral, I'm mid 30's. Do search around, although in my experience it's always one out of the same few companies which seem to give me the best quote (off the top of my head, Elephant, Admiral, Direct Line, Churchill). Of course it might be different for you, but personally I've never had a good quote from the obscure or specialist ones, in fact they are usually multiple times more expensive.

A lot of things affect insurance. I used to think it was mostly down to age and the car's insurance group, but I've found the area you live, home ownership and such can make a huge difference. Adding your partner on can make it cheaper, even if they don't plan to drive it. And as @hockeyedwards says, set your start date to something other than "tomorrow", ideally around 3-4 weeks into the future, that can make it cheaper too.

Probably obvious, but don't bother with the add-ons like breakdown cover, legal cover, etc. All you want from them is fully comp insurance.

One more bonus tip for you. When it comes to renewal they will often increase your quote. Tell them you find the new quote a bit expensive and ask if there's anything they can do. Might not always work, but I was really surprised last renewal when I got a £90 discount almost without trying.

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Or you could pass your Institute of Advanced Motorists test and then insure through them (Cornmarket Insurance). They guarantee to beat any like for like quote you get, from comparison sites or otherwise. 😁

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On 7/19/2022 at 5:12 PM, ashyk36 said:

Hey. Can I ask your thoughts on insuring a GS F. I am 34 years old, 12 years no claims, no accidents or points, parked on driveway overnight, 5k mileage over a course of the year, lowest cost on money supermarket from a reputable insurer is £1100 ( lowest cost overall is £850).

Anyone got any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks 

Hi.

If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.

Regards,

Dan. 

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If you have more than one car in the family, I can vouch for Admiral multicar. The premiums have been surprisingly low and the UK call-centre staff have been knowledgeable and helpful during many calls.

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Just 240 odd quid for my last renewal...couldn't believe it! My Wife is a named driver which tends to lower the premium ( she never drives tbe gsf so I tried removing her for a quote and it was more).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey everyone. I purchased a blue GS F three weeks ago and I absolutely love it. 

I know reading through the threads there is a lot of posts on detailing however I wanted to get someone's opinion on keeping the blue looking good. On a blue 350z I owned a few years ago, I would wash it, iron remover, Autoglym super resin polish, dodo juice purple haze wax finished finished off with Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical.

Anyone got any thoughts on these products with the Lexus or any alternatives?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

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1 minute ago, ashyk36 said:

Hey everyone. I purchased a blue GS F three weeks ago and I absolutely love it. 

I know reading through the threads there is a lot of posts on detailing however I wanted to get someone's opinion on keeping the blue looking good. On a blue 350z I owned a few years ago, I would wash it, iron remover, autoglym super resin polish, dodo juice purple haze wax finished finished off with Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical.

Anyone got any thoughts on these products with the Lexus or any alternatives?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

It’s just paint mate, no specific products required - use what you like.  Scratches are inflicted during the contact phase of any wash, so just take it easy.

You shouldn’t use polish every wash, polish once or twice a year as required as it’s abrasive.  I wash as normal (wheels first then paint - rinse, foam, rinse, foam and contact wash with two bucket method, rinse, dry) then just use a good wax or sealant every 3 months or so and then top with detailing spray to finish every wash.

I had mine professionally polished then had the front end ppf’d.  Still looks like glass as I’m careful.

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9 hours ago, ashyk36 said:

Hey everyone. I purchased a blue GS F three weeks ago and I absolutely love it. 

I know reading through the threads there is a lot of posts on detailing however I wanted to get someone's opinion on keeping the blue looking good. On a blue 350z I owned a few years ago, I would wash it, iron remover, autoglym super resin polish, dodo juice purple haze wax finished finished off with Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical.

Anyone got any thoughts on these products with the Lexus or any alternatives?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Had my blue gsf ceramic coated with gtechnic over 2 years ago. The finish was stunning.  It goes long periods without washing ending up covered in dust etc (I know..I know thats naughty but finding time do a wash that doesnt inflict swirls is difficult). When it does get washed and valeted, it emerges from under the dust it as it was straight after the coating was applied.

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11 hours ago, ashyk36 said:

Hey everyone. I purchased a blue GS F three weeks ago and I absolutely love it. 

I know reading through the threads there is a lot of posts on detailing however I wanted to get someone's opinion on keeping the blue looking good. On a blue 350z I owned a few years ago, I would wash it, iron remover, autoglym super resin polish, dodo juice purple haze wax finished finished off with Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical.

Anyone got any thoughts on these products with the Lexus or any alternatives?

First off, congrats on the car and I'm a bit envious, that blue Lexus paint really is lovely, especially when you see it in person and in different lighting conditions.

It's a pretty big topic and everyone will have their own preferences and way of doing things. I can give you a brief-ish overview of what I've learned "detailing" my cars about every 2 weeks for the last few years.

  1. Your washing technique is arguably much more important than the products you use, so keep that in mind. Having said that I really like Bilt Hamber products and especially their snow foams (they make two, they are both very good just with slightly different use cases). I would recommend using a pressure washer too.
     
  2. You should do the wheels and arches first although I won't cover the technique here as you asked specifically about the paint. But it's important to do them first as it's the dirtiest area and you don't want to fling dirt back onto your clean paint. Make sense?
     
  3. Snow foam pre-wash with a good foam, leave to dwell for 5 minutes, then a thorough pressure rinse is important as it loosens and pulls 90% of the dirt off the car before you even touch it with a sponge.
     
  4. Brush out your trims. If this hasn't been done in a while I like to do this just before the contact wash although you can do it during. Basically get a detailing brush and dip it in your wash bucket or spray it with some APC and brush the grime out of the little gaps around badges, edges of the rubber trim around the windows, panel gaps, petrol filler cap, exhaust tips, etc etc. If you don't do this you will get a buildup of dirt and grime in all these places, and the longer it builds up, the more difficult it is to remove. I really like Surfex HD for this (another BH product).
     
  5. Contact wash. Use a good microfiber wash sponge or mitt as they are much "safer" inflicting far less swirls than a traditional sponge. Be gentle on the contact wash and don't use excessive pressure or scrubbing. Personally I don't bother with the 2 bucket method any more as I don't really see the need assuming you do a good pre-wash soak and rinse. Rinse down afterwards. Ideally you can do this before the paint dries, but if you do notice some dried-on soap marks just go over those panels quickly with some more soapy water and then rinse. It doesn't really matter what shampoo you use as long as it's not a combined wash & wax type. I use BH Auto-Wash, but the Autoglym Ultra HD Shampoo is also really good.
     
  6. (Optional) Contamination removal. If your paint's contaminated you would do this step now. Give the paint a feel when it's clean, contamination feels like little rough specs. You want to spray it onto dry panels so dry the car first and then cover with your iron & fallout remover of choice. I like Bilt Hamber Korrosol (surprise surprise) as it's one of the more concentrated, faster acting ones. If this hasn't been done for a while the car can be covered, so be thorough and give the product time to work (there should be dark purple streaks everywhere). Pressure rinse thoroughly and then feel the paint. If it's smooth then you're all good. If not you might have to do a second application or think about using a clay cloth or clay bars, although be aware clay is very aggressive on the paint and best done prior to machine polishing.
     
  7. Protection. I like Gyeon Wet Coat or Turtle Wax Dry & Shine, but there are lots of good spray-on sealants. 2-4 sprays per panel is all you need and then pressure-rinse off. You will notice the paint surface change almost instantly and start beading really nicely. It still impresses me every time. The reason I like Wet Coat in particular is it makes the paint feel very slick the car seems to stay clean for longer after using it. I reapply the sealant every couple of months or so, you don't need to do it every wash. It's good stuff.
     
  8. Dry. I like a big plush microfibre drying towel for this, but if you have a blower that also helps. I dry the top panels first (roof, windows, bonnet and then go around the sides). If you used a spray sealant in the previous step this whole process is much easier as your towel will glide over the paint. Then use a blower to blow out any water stuck in gaps in the wheels, around the headlights and trims, etc. Or take the car for a quick spin, that also works.
     
  9. When you're done, walk around the car one last time just to check for any drips of water from opening and closing the doors etc, or bug splats if you went for a drive. You can use your damp drying towel to wipe them up or a quick detailer if you have one. The idea is to not let drips of water sit on the paint and then dry as that will create water spots, often in the same place like under the mirrors, doors, bootlid where it drips down. The longer stuff sits dry on the paint the harder it tends to be to remove, and it can also etch the paint, so it's best to clean up well before it can get to that point.

I guess that's about it for the paint, although it can easily get way more in-depth than this! I didn't even mention the door and bootlid shuts, sometimes they stay pretty clean and you can just give them a quick wipe with the drying towel at the end. Otherwise get in there with a brush and rinse carefully and wipe dry. A lot of it is knowing the best order to do things in and managing how you work your way around the car to minimise issues with panels drying up. For example when it's sunny the "hot" side of the car can start to dry within like 2 minutes, but in winter you can often go 15+ mins without issues. I try to avoid washing my car when it's hot, but sometimes you don't have much choice so try to adjust the way you work around the car, doing smaller sections at a time and stuff like that. Or get up early and wash the car when it's cool.

A note on ceramic coatings, if you do decide to go down that route I would suggest not doing it straight away. Wash the car a few times yourself and get used to the condition of the paint and how to do safe washing techniques. That way when you come to get it ceramic coated you will be giving them a clean, well maintained car and already know what you're doing when it comes to safe maintenance washes (which will help the coating last a long time). And you will have a better idea of what correction the paint will need before the coating goes on.

Well, this ended up being quite a bit longer than I envisioned! Anyway, hope it helps.

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5 hours ago, BillNick said:

Looks amazing! Have you also had the grill surround darkened or are they darker on the GSF (vs RCF)?

THANKS... Previous owner had it done. GSF has chrome grill similar to RCF.

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Hi all hope your well, unfortunately i might end up having to sell my GSF due to family issues, if you know anyone in the market for a black on black GSF please send them my way, i know what the cars worth but i’m not going to be asking stupid money like many others do, its got all the 3 options and is low miles (32,000) car is immaculate inside and out, i am honestly gutted to have to sell it but needs must, i want it to go too a good home its too good to be neglected and also i want to stay in contact so i can maybe by it back in the next few years once these family issues have been dealt with

thanks jacob

 

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18 hours ago, GSF_REG said:

Hi all hope your well, unfortunately i might end up having to sell my GSF due to family issues, if you know anyone in the market for a black on black GSF please send them my way, i know what the cars worth but i’m not going to be asking stupid money like many others do, its got all the 3 options and is low miles (32,000) car is immaculate inside and out, i am honestly gutted to have to sell it but needs must, i want it to go too a good home its too good to be neglected and also i want to stay in contact so i can maybe by it back in the next few years once these family issues have been dealt with

thanks jacob

Sorry to hear you're having to sell already.

I can vouch for this car being in great condition from what I saw at Japfest this year. Excellent paint, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a scratch or swirl on it.

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1 hour ago, pope111 said:

bought a car that cant afford 🤔

Can you not read? Its due to family issues and i need the money for court costs, also don’t come at me when you drive a 2017 is300 pal👍🏻

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1 hour ago, Duggie B said:

Not long left on MOT I see, might be favourable to put up for sale with fresh ticket.

Hi duggie, yeah it is due for an MOT soon! It will be done, not really in any rush to sell as i adore the car! I haven’t even posted it for sale officially just seeing if i get any intrest, can’t be arsed with wollys on eBay! honestly i don’t need the money but i certainly wouldn’t mind it being in my bank😂

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On 8/10/2022 at 10:35 AM, ironrose said:

Is this the same one that was on sale recently when Jay em reviewed it, well it boomeranged and back at lexus Swindon with a "Premium"

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202208098624123?atmobcid=soc3

Do GSFs hold a premium relative to similar RCFs?  Seems a tad rich.  Bought my 2018 RCF with 10k miles well spec’d from them for £2k less than that asking price.

Not sure they will have much haggling in them either, was a real battle to get anything off mine and it had been with them a few months!

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