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My old 2002 needs a bit of life put back in to the paint work. It's a plain flat blue not metalic but some paint nowadays have a clear coat over a flat colour. If this is the case then I would need to use the T-Cut in the silver bottle for metalics, right?

If there is no clear coat then original T-Cut in the red bottle is the one.

Does anyone know if Lexus put clear coat on the solid blue colour cars?

Thanks,

Bod

 

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Hi there 

Use a compound first, then use a Polish and then wax your car, you'll see then the colour come up real nice and it will have a lovely gloss. Personally I wouldn't use no t cut or turtle wax products, there's better stuff out there

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1 hour ago, Verbout said:

I believe Clay bars are preferred over t cut by people that do detailing.

As Mr. Fix does in this video, couldn't be ***** myself but it's impressive :thumbup:

clay bars dont polish lol!

Id be using something like Autoglym super resin polish first to check its not just oxidation (which should be removed easily). Its suitable on all paint types. Dont worry if you see blue colour on the pad being used, if its a colour without clear coat then it will leave the oxidised blue paint on the pad.

If its not touching it, you'll need something like Meguiars ultimate compound.

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Hi

You can use a polisher but can also use a foam applicator and do it by hand. The compound will remove swirl marks and minor marks or scratches, then use a good polish and a good wax. Autoglym is good, but there's better stuff out there. I don't use Autoglym.

I first pressure wash the car to get some dirt off, then use a good snowfoam, leave the snowfoam for about 10 mins, then wash off what ever is left, then use a good shampoo, don't use a wash and wax shampoo, but before all that wash the alloys with a separate mitt, anyway wash the shampoo off and then dry with a drying towel, I don't use a leather chamois as it leaves streaks and some marks, I use poorboys drying towel, once dry, use the compound, really rub it in but softly, wipe off with micro fibre cloth them polish and wax the car.

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14 hours ago, rayaans said:

Clay bars dont polish lol!

Id be using something like Autoglym super resin polish first to check its not just oxidation (which should be removed easily). Its suitable on all paint types. Dont worry if you see blue colour on the pad being used, if its a colour without clear coat then it will leave the oxidised blue paint on the pad.

If its not touching it, you'll need something like Meguiars ultimate compound.

Didn't think the OP asked about polishing his car :lol::thumbup:

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18 hours ago, Boddney said:

My old 2002 needs a bit of life put back in to the paint work.

 

1 hour ago, Quantum said:

Didn't think the OP asked about polishing his car :lol::thumbup:

I think the OP does want to polish up dull/lifeless paintwork

 

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verb: polish; 3rd person present: polishes; past tense: polished; past participle: polished; gerund or present participle: polishing
  1. 1.
    make the surface of (something) smooth and shiny by rubbing it.
    "behind the bar the steward polished glasses busily"
    synonyms: shine, wax, buff, rub up, rub down; More
    archaicfurbish
    "I polished his shoes"
noun
noun: polish
  1. 1.
    a substance used to give something a smooth and shiny surface when rubbed in.
    "a tin of shoe polish"
    synonyms: wax, varnish, glaze, lacquer, enamel, japan, shellac
    "shoe polish"
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I'm a fan of claying

"Does Your Car's Paint Look Dull & Feel Rough? Detailing clay bars quickly and easily remove Insects, Tar, Stubborn Road Grime, Brake Dust, Exhaust Soot, Oxidation, Surface Rust, Paint Overspray, Factory Fallout and more. 

Don't allow paint contamination to ruin the clearcoat finish on your car.  detailing clay removes harmful surface contamination and restores a smooth finish that feels and looks great!. Then capitalise on the smooth finish with a good quality wax or polish."

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Oh Rayaan erm you do need the wax to help with giving the car a nice shine and to protect the paintwork when it rains etc. So thats compound, then polish which helps to get the paint work ready for the final stage which is the wax. 

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10 minutes ago, messi said:

Oh Rayaan erm you do need the wax to help with giving the car a nice shine and to protect the paintwork when it rains etc. So thats compound, then polish which helps to get the paint work ready for the final stage which is the wax. 

No you don't. Wax is protection, it doesn't add anything to the paint apart from a slick feeling surface and protection. That's unless the wax is loaded with gloss enhancers and fillers

A polished car will look shinier than before. If you stick a wax on a banger the paint wont look any better

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1 hour ago, Quantum said:

I will try and find a forum with a more welcoming membership.

Mods, you can delete this account, thank you. :(

Dont leave. Members like Rayaan & Messi are very knowledgable and helpful. Learn from them and be grateful they posted the answer.

  Constructive discussion is what makes forums interesting.

To be fair you did put your foot in it. Take it on the chin.  

 

  I was on a forum for my previous car and everyone agreed and it was dull and boring!!

 

Ed:yes:

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On 19/08/2016 at 11:41 PM, messi said:

I did write the word protect. Polish is the 2nd to last step before waxing a vehicle. I know I do detailing part time for myself just to earn abit of extra money.

You said "to help give the car a nice shine and protect". The protection is true definitely,  the shine or lack of added shine depends on the wax.  Something like collinite is pure wax designed not to add anything to the paint in terms of shine, whereas your show waxes etc are often loaded with gloss enhancers and fillers to help with that

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To answer the T cut question first: Both will work, the  Red is  very aggressive and  best avoided unless your car is single stage paint and very faded. Both will leave marring (micro scratches) of their own which in days gone by were removed by the likes of Auroglym SRP or at least masked as its a filler polish.  These days there are diminishing polishes or compounds which means they break down as you polish and avoid the marring I mentioned. Megs Scratch X or Swirl X  would be the one I would use instead of T Cut if looking through Halfords. By hand you need a lot of time and ibuprofen! Try a coat of Autoglym SRP first as that is still one of the best all in one products around and see how that looks then you can top with  sealant or wax, which is a whole new subject.  

 

 

 

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Get your car to a detailer (NOT a valeter) and get them to do a stage 1 (or2, or 3 depending on how bad) and the car will look better than when it left the factory!

Here's some shots of mine today, after machine polishing and a good clean up using good quality products (it has 3 coats of HD wax, and 1 of Collinite 476S):

28507280274_13175bdabd_b.jpg

29128508905_bfde7a01a9_b.jpg

29129140395_574b41b207_b.jpg

 

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On 21/08/2016 at 3:02 AM, PWOOD said:

To answer the T cut question first: Both will work, the  Red is  very aggressive and  best avoided unless your car is single stage paint and very faded. Both will leave marring (micro scratches) of their own which in days gone by were removed by the likes of Auroglym SRP or at least masked as its a filler polish.  These days there are diminishing polishes or compounds which means they break down as you polish and avoid the marring I mentioned. Megs Scratch X or Swirl X  would be the one I would use instead of T Cut if looking through Halfords. By hand you need a lot of time and ibuprofen! Try a coat of Autoglym SRP first as that is still one of the best all in one products around and see how that looks then you can top with  sealant or wax, which is a whole new subject.  

 

 

 

Thanks. That was most helpful PWOOD.

BRIAN, how much would that cost if you don't mind me asking. That looks great.

Bod

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