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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/10/2016 in all areas

  1. I've ran winter tyres for about the last 10 winters or so - all on rear drive cars, the last one being an m5. When the temp drops, and if the white stuff doesn't arrive they still make a big difference. Grip, ride and braking feel is greatly improved over summer performance tyres. my last 2 cars, the m5 and an e350 merc ran michelin super sports and conti sport contacts respectively - great tyres for spirited driving in the spring and summer, but in the very limited experience I had in both in the snow were pathetic. Looking at the tread pattern the grooves in the tyre primarily run radially, great for shifting water, but offer no purchase in snow or slush. the winters on both were conti winter contacts - lots of tread blocks, radial and lateral tread, and little chines on each tread block that are supposed to grip the snow. Whatever they transformed each car - the merc I ran through the winter of 2011-12 travelling daily into the middle of Northumberland for work, and it never once felt as if the car was out of control. I used the tyres on the car for 3 winters, and they still have enough tread (5mm+)to be used again - probably did 18-20k miles on them changing back to summers in late march. So for me they are a absolute no brainer - I've already got my wheels 10 x19 linea corse lc818 rims and 265/30 Bridgestone blizzaks all round to go on. Should not only be able to handle anything the winter throws our way, but should look good too.
    2 points
  2. Hi. Please forgive me if I'm wrong as I'm new to the Lexus group. Just bought my is250 a week ago lol For my previous vehicles, I normally use www.camskill.co.uk to order tyres and ask a local garage to fit it. Personally, the price on camskill is quite reasonable. hope this help :)
    1 point
  3. Special tool needed again ?
    1 point
  4. Guess it makes more sense for you to take the car to your local dealership, so they can sit in with you and work through the problem. Better than trying to talk you through it over the phone? Agree though, they could have told you what ID195 means!
    1 point
  5. I always find oil a bit confusing in terms of will one manufacturer over another do more harm or more good. Found this link interesting, and written in a style I could get my head around. http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html What I find interesting is the the LS temp gauge never budges once the engine is warm, no matter in a queue on a hot day or pottle-ing about the country lanes, so I assume the LS being well engineered does not suffer as much from extremes you get in a Ford Focus RS on a night out in some car park. Also as the LS has turbo no components there is none of that high RPM stuff going on (and subsequent lubrication stress) so the oil just gets a nicer life in (I assume) the lazy LS. My LS at 170,000+ barely uses oil between it's service intervals (and about 10,000 miles) and, but I have been know to top up with half a litre of Halford semi-synthetic (10/40 I recall). I also never buy oil or such like from eBay, just in case, I am sure most sellers are fine, but (to quote keybasher2) I have a 30 bob head, so a 25 bob ebay helmet is a step not worth trying.
    1 point
  6. Nah, don't get it at all. If I did get it I would probably invest in a cheap 4x4.
    1 point
  7. Thanks! It worked on mine too. I have been working through the manuals, but with a combined total of over 1300 pages I think one is perhaps forgiven for occasionally despairing and longing for a simpler life!
    1 point
  8. Hi Sathax - I'm in Cricklewood so very close to Edgware. Can you let me have the name of the workshop please? Many thanks!
    1 point
  9. Back to the original posters topic, I'll be rotating my tyres at the weekend as it appears the inner shoulders of the front tyres can wear unduly without rotating to the rears - I'll measure the tread depth across the tyre and post up the results although will probably only be valid for RX300 SE-L owners! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. Yes, thank you. All sorted with minimum fuss. The only hardship is that I had to drive a new RX450h Premier for two days. :-)
    1 point
  11. Fingers crossed it's the fuse.......that would be peachy
    1 point
  12. I would be the same, I am just useless at anything like that. The other day I sprayed some lube onto a squeaky kitchen cupboard door but then could not shut the door again properly, I took ages trying to find out why, then my wife showed me I had left the spray can of lube in front of a bottle and so it blocked it. Soooo embarrassing. Wire a dash cam... you must be joking. :(
    1 point
  13. Hi Guys - I have to say I am completely ambivalent on this debate. I've read and heard a lot about the tyre change for the winter period (something that has become 'trendy' in the last 5-6 years as no doubt tyre firms and fitters see a new sales op) and for the one in every 6-8 years we have a prolonged snowy period always think I will do it, we then have a run of mild winters and it seems unnecessary. I always balk at the thought of spending best part of a grand on tyres only needed for four months, having my old ones changed, storing the summer ones and reversing the whole painful process in the spring and repeating it the following year. Outside of a layer of snow/ice on the roads, I really don't see the point. I know in many countries like Germany it is the law you do this, but then their winters make it common sense to do this anyway, whereas in most of the UK it's about 3-4 weeks per year in bad winters you really need this. Am I missing something?
    1 point
  14. Opie oil quote C3 and not A5 for Magnatec
    1 point
  15. Haven't got the same problem. It's just that mines the same year as yours. Interested to know the result for future reference. Just hoping it's a fuse(s). Mouse,steering wheel controls but screen is ok. Possible same circuit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  16. I doubt it is going to work, if you ask them to price match before buying maybe... normal price for this oil is ~£36-37, ASDA's £29 is real bargain aka "nobrainer - grab it while it lasts" - it would be fair if they give you £10 off each bottle, as that woudl be standard selling price, but they won't match £29. Bought myself 6L (4+2) of Magnatec, dated 08/2016 for just £35. It was possibly better deal to buy 4+4, but because I do oil every ~5-6k and car doesn't really drink I guess I won't have much added value from 2 liter top-up. As well it seems that every time I need to change oil I manage to wait until discounts starts in local super markets, it is discounted either in Tesco or ASDA. In worst case I go to Opie oils: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.aspx?vehicleid=8971&variantlist=98363:0,98470:0,98491:0,98794:0,98861:0,99116:0,99124:0&yearFilter=2008
    1 point
  17. Good luck with that, post their reply for all to see please.
    1 point
  18. I've got a NextBase 402G and it's excellent. I hard-wired it in myself, took about 20-25 minutes at most, quite possibly less as it's a very easy job. As Bob mentioned above, some insurance companies give a discount on premiums (approx 10-12%) if you have a camera installed. However I didn't ask my insurers about that because Sod's Law indicates that if I'm ever involved in an accident then that will be the day that I forgot to put the camera in the car and no doubt they'll use that as an excuse to reduce or refuse the claim. Not that I'm cynical about insurance companies, of course
    1 point
  19. HI Michael, Where are you based? I can recommend a good workshop but it is based in North West London, up near Edgware.
    1 point
  20. I can open the boot on my MkIV with the engine running.
    1 point
  21. Yes it is immobilised. What you do is the ignition switch must be left in the 'on' position for 6 minutes and then turned off before attempting to start. Same procedure in a flat battery or battery disconnection. thats the info from my manual...
    1 point
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