LS400 - Ebay

[Alexander-Lexus]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353530244263?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D998cc2eddfa04bb199000d684a89cc13%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D153871840286%26itm%3D353530244263%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa1dee7e4-cb59-11eb-93bd-1e751bd83cb9|parentrq%3Aff5fcddc1790a4d709915628fff50803|iid%3A1
 

just seen this up with only 15,000 miles. Hasn’t moved for 6 years. I’m always put off my cars that don’t move, be interested to get others perspective. 
 

what would likely need replaced? - all four tyres, Battery, front and rears breaks and full oil change and filter would likely set one back by around £1,500 just to get it back on the road

[BigBoomer]

Lots of bids on that already. 22 bids , £2500, and still 8 days to go. 😀

[rich1068]

MOT ran out in 2015. Could be totally rotten.

[Razor61]

16 minutes ago, rich1068 said:

MOT ran out in 2015. Could be totally rotten.

Could be rotten but could also be in excellent condition if it’s been stored well. Only one way to find out which one is true, if it was nearer I’d be having a look. If it’s in excellent condition and only done 15k it must be worth at least £2500, especially if you can do any needed mechanical work yourself. Timing belt and water pump etc being one of the first jobs I would think, £500 at a friendly Lexus Dealer or tackle it yourself. If you maybe spend £1k - £2k in parts and do the work yourself then you could potentially have a near brand new LS400 for less than £5k, I say ‘potentially’ because it may not turn out that way of course. Worth a go in my opinion, if you have spare cash and can do the work yourself otherwise it would be expensive paying garages to do any work.

[Razor61]

After talking to the seller, I don’t think it’s going to be sold for less than £9k - £10k. My bid of £2500 isn’t going to cut the mustard😢 so I’ll forget it. I would have gone to £4K for it as I think it’s worth it.

[Malc]

summat ain't right with it ...  it's advertised " ON THE NET " whatever that may be AND also with factory fitted DHP and Sports Wheels  ......  you reckon ??

I don't see that ........... 

Malc

[hockeyedwards]

Half glass full - wow low miles, dried stored on trickle charge, no cost spared to keep it pristine, low owners, that's worth some £££ maybe I can grab a bargain?!

Half glass empty - sat under or not under a cover outside or in less than ideal conditions, quick whip round to make look tidy but underneath probs riddled like swiss cheese and mouldy to its core on the interior, scam!

I would want an in person check over, I'd be looking at subframe, sills, rear arches, perishing or corroded pipes - Happy hunting! 😆

P.S - A higher mileage (50k), older car which had been fully inspected before buying and was literally perfect went for about £8k, might give some precedent for that 9-10k expectation 🙂 

[Razor61]

8 minutes ago, Malc said:

summat ain't right with it ...  it's advertised " ON THE NET " whatever that may be AND also with factory fitted DHP and Sports Wheels  ......  you reckon ??

Yep, the DHP and sports wheels isn’t right but not everyone knows about the differences on these cars. I’ve bid on the car and would be happy to go to £4K, I won’t get it for that because the item will be taken off sale. Right or wrong, that is what will happen if it doesn’t reach the price wanted. But, for arguments sake, imagine I won it for £4K and travelled down to pick it up and pay for it. I find it’s nowhere near as good as described or it wouldn’t start or whatever, I would not buy it and walk away. Yes I’ve wasted a journey and I would not feel guilty about winning the auction and then not buying it after seeing it in the flesh.

[Spacewagon52]

Reading your comments it makes me feel very privileged to be owning my LS 400 - even after a hefty MOT bill.

 

[Malc]

57 minutes ago, Spacewagon52 said:

even after a hefty MOT bill.

how hefty ?

Malc

[Spacewagon52]

Approx. £800 - Parking brake kit - rear discs and pads. Hopefully no more wear & tear items for a while yet I hope. Most of the cost was labour.

[Razor61]

1 hour ago, Spacewagon52 said:

Most of the cost was labour.

That’s the key to keeping an expensive car on the road whether it’s a LS400 or something else like a BMW M3. Parts are not cheap but if you can fit them yourself it makes a huge difference. For what you have had done it would be approx £300 for rear discs/pads and brake shoes, genuine Lexus parts as well and that’s not expensive at all in my opinion. The time fitting them, and I can speak from experience, would be around 4 hours if done properly. Removing everything, cleaning everything, fitting the parts correctly, adjusting the parking brake if needed (it will probably need adjusting). All that is assuming everything else is working ok, calipers are not seized etc.

[Spacewagon52]

5 hours ago, Razor61 said:

That’s the key to keeping an expensive car on the road whether it’s a LS400 or something else like a BMW M3. Parts are not cheap but if you can fit them yourself it makes a huge difference. For what you have had done it would be approx £300 for rear discs/pads and brake shoes, genuine Lexus parts as well and that’s not expensive at all in my opinion. The time fitting them, and I can speak from experience, would be around 4 hours if done properly. Removing everything, cleaning everything, fitting the parts correctly, adjusting the parking brake if needed (it will probably need adjusting). All that is assuming everything else is working ok, calipers are not seized etc.

I agree Paul. I thought it was expensive until I saw the breakdown. Repairs can appear expensive but compared with depreciation can be quite reasonable. Newer cars should not need major maintenance and that is what you pay for when buying newish. The longer you keep a car, the depreciation is spread over a period to the point where the car effectively no longer depreciates in value - but on going maintenance will increase. I am sure there is graph somewhere which shows the optimum ownership length.

[MotorDevil]

Does anyone else think that car has done more than 15K miles? The steering wheel looks very worn, and the center armrest / seats don't look great either. 

[JamesIS220]

41 minutes ago, MotorDevil said:

Does anyone else think that car has done more than 15K miles? The steering wheel looks very worn, and the center armrest / seats don't look great either. 

I agree with you on the drivers seat. Really needs a good clean, feed and possibly re-colouring. Wear looks bad for 15k and certainly doesn't look like a brand new car! Mould, cracked drivers seat, worn steering wheel. Glovebox dented or more mould. Carpets need a good clean. Slight corrosion mentioned on MOT in 2012. Tyres perished etc. No mention of why it was taken off the road! Why not MOT it now if it's like a new car!!

Interior on Lexus looks not great for a 15k mile car. 

 

[rich1068]

44 minutes ago, MotorDevil said:

The steering wheel looks very worn

Without getting too much into this, I have to agree. That right hand seam is split either due to use or damp.

[Malc]

the steering wheel, the gear knob top and the driver's seat are reminiscent of 115k miles methinks 

the piccys of this car with the absence of DHP and it's wheels and the amazing 15k miles tells me, along with the MOT colour of grey ......  that this car maybe covered more miles at the first MOT shown at 2006 where a replacement dash might have been inserted ..... BEWARE I would think

a good polished example can look very good indeed with the original unblemished super paintwork undamaged

I'd be wanting some sound proof of such excellence from date of birth to present

Malc

[JamesIS220]

2 hours ago, Spacewagon52 said:

I agree Paul. I thought it was expensive until I saw the breakdown. Repairs can appear expensive but compared with depreciation can be quite reasonable. Newer cars should not need major maintenance and that is what you pay for when buying newish. The longer you keep a car, the depreciation is spread over a period to the point where the car effectively no longer depreciates in value - but on going maintenance will increase. I am sure there is graph somewhere which shows the optimum ownership length.

10 years I would say for a modern car. Or just buy something old that's worthwhile like a Lexus or for me a Volvo 240, 740, 940. 1989 240GLT auto was my daily and only car until 2018. Had 10 years reliable and trouble free miles. Bought at 159,410 for £350 and sold 10 years later with 234,000 and £500.

James. 

[Spacewagon52]

12 minutes ago, JamesIS220 said:

10 years I would say for a modern car. Or just buy something old that's worthwhile like a Lexus or for me a Volvo 240, 740, 940. 1989 240GLT auto was my daily and only car until 2018. Had 10 years reliable and trouble free miles. Bought at 159,410 for £350 and sold 10 years later with 234,000 and £500.

James. 

How reliable was the Volvo? Did you spend much on it repair wise?  Was it durable?

I had a 240 GLE and it was very disappointing to be honest.

[JamesIS220]

1 hour ago, Spacewagon52 said:

How reliable was the Volvo? Did you spend much on it repair wise?  Was it durable?

I had a 240 GLE and it was very disappointing to be honest.

Sorry to hear that. Mine was ultra reliable. 1989 240 GLT Auto estate. B230E.

Bought late 2009 with 160k and sold 10 years later with 234,000 miles. I tend to once bought budget 1k to bring it up to a standard of service items like new brakes all round, tyres, cambelt, water pump, oil/filter. cooling hoses, ignition components.

New rad and auto gearbox pipes around 180k. Corroded to rad and pipes holed as allu pipe/steel clips corrosion. Nissens rad £65 and genuine Volvo ATF pipes £100 the pair. Fitting around £100

Gearbox pipes went again, as numpty garage cable tied them to sharp remains of pipe bracket and shafed through at our holiday Cottage on the West Coast of Ireland! Saw lots of fluid on drive! Fitted new set on drive and bought through Volvo's classic parts again! Car less for a few days and no cable ties! £100 again, labour by me and top up of ATF

New alternator at 191k Still got me home 20 miles with dash lit up. Next day started fine and made it to garage 8 miles away. £191 supplied and fitted.

Worst repair was rear tail output bearing on AW 70 auto gearbox went at 198k. Cost me £500 to fix as fitted a used tail output part of the gearbox and fitted a used gearbox crossmember as bent and new gearbox mount, plus used prop centre mount and new engine mounts. All started when going home and heard a massive banging noise on transmission tunnel. Turned out gearbox was hitting the tunnel. Was leaking gearbox ATF for a while, around a year, but finally needed attention. First and only breakdown in 10 years. Had it recovered to Volvo specialist.

Always passed it's MOT with no advisories and always started first time. Liked the B230E mechanical K jet Bosch Injection and AW70 auto gearbox.

General service or wear related repairs. Nothing out the ordinary. Basic service, tyres, discs/pads, exhaust, fluids. Biggest issue, rust on outriggers/jacking points. Had nearside welded twice in my ownership. £100.

Tailgate wiring looms shortly after buying as splitting and rear items not working. Looms about £30 the pair from Volvo and fitted myself. Fiddly job! Surprising how many parts are available from Sweden under the classic parts ordering.

Engine, no issues bar basic servicing and cambelt/tensioner and one water pump. Still all ran great when sold with 234,000 miles. Needed a heater fan, as totally dead, and dash out job! rear arches getting rusty and I used it as my work van for 5 years so needed a good clean! Used to do a few jobs like brakes, cooling hoses, thermostat, waterpump but got Volvo specialist to do the cambelt. Volvo cambelt was £10 and tensioner £37.00. Labour of 2 hours £60

Bought a 1996 Volvo 940 SE LPT auto estate a few years before selling the 240 for £250 5 years ago now, as 940 has ABS, drivers airbag, Electric sunroof and AC fitted but not working. I was concerned going from a basic 240 GLT to a turbo 940 more to go wrong. Thankfully only needed recovering once, for a failed in tank fuel pump which I replaced myself end of last year. The next day it failed it's MOT on lower steering UJ play and track rod end/ball joint. Not bad for a 24 year old car and 204,000 miles No advisories. So I like older Volvo's,  not newer.

Also have a Toyota Auris Hybrid estate and the 940. In 15 months of owning Auris has had new AC condenser and 12 volt Battery. Thankfully AC rad was replaced under warranty. Car now has 34,000miles.

James.👍

 

[steve2006]

13 hours ago, MotorDevil said:

Does anyone else think that car has done more than 15K miles? The steering wheel looks very worn, and the center armrest / seats don't look great either. 

I thought exactly the same, looking at the rear bumper I immediately thought “ only one previous careless driver”.

The steering wheel and interior don’t look “15k” but the last MOT appears to validate the claimed mileage.

There are some gaps in MOTs perhaps on a private plate but why would a “one owner” change plates twice over 3 years? I’d be looking very carefully at that “Service history”.

After being stood for over 5 years it will certainly need some parts and money put into it.

[runsgrateasanut]

Could have ECU issues? For the car of that age it would be diffouclt to replace if the tracing is bad.

I looked at the sellers four negatives - makes me wonder!

[Spacewagon52]

11 hours ago, JamesIS220 said:

Sorry to hear that. Mine was ultra reliable. 1989 240 GLT Auto estate. B230E.

Bought late 2009 with 160k and sold 10 years later with 234,000 miles. I tend to once bought budget 1k to bring it up to a standard of service items like new brakes all round, tyres, cambelt, water pump, oil/filter. cooling hoses, ignition components.

New rad and auto gearbox pipes around 180k. Corroded to rad and pipes holed as allu pipe/steel clips corrosion. Nissens rad £65 and genuine Volvo ATF pipes £100 the pair. Fitting around £100

Gearbox pipes went again, as numpty garage cable tied them to sharp remains of pipe bracket and shafed through at our holiday Cottage on the West Coast of Ireland! Saw lots of fluid on drive! Fitted new set on drive and bought through Volvo's classic parts again! Car less for a few days and no cable ties! £100 again, labour by me and top up of ATF

New alternator at 191k Still got me home 20 miles with dash lit up. Next day started fine and made it to garage 8 miles away. £191 supplied and fitted.

Worst repair was rear tail output bearing on AW 70 auto gearbox went at 198k. Cost me £500 to fix as fitted a used tail output part of the gearbox and fitted a used gearbox crossmember as bent and new gearbox mount, plus used prop centre mount and new engine mounts. All started when going home and heard a massive banging noise on transmission tunnel. Turned out gearbox was hitting the tunnel. Was leaking gearbox ATF for a while, around a year, but finally needed attention. First and only breakdown in 10 years. Had it recovered to Volvo specialist.

Always passed it's MOT with no advisories and always started first time. Liked the B230E mechanical K jet Bosch Injection and AW70 auto gearbox.

General service or wear related repairs. Nothing out the ordinary. Basic service, tyres, discs/pads, exhaust, fluids. Biggest issue, rust on outriggers/jacking points. Had nearside welded twice in my ownership. £100.

Tailgate wiring looms shortly after buying as splitting and rear items not working. Looms about £30 the pair from Volvo and fitted myself. Fiddly job! Surprising how many parts are available from Sweden under the classic parts ordering.

Engine, no issues bar basic servicing and cambelt/tensioner and one water pump. Still all ran great when sold with 234,000 miles. Needed a heater fan, as totally dead, and dash out job! rear arches getting rusty and I used it as my work van for 5 years so needed a good clean! Used to do a few jobs like brakes, cooling hoses, thermostat, waterpump but got Volvo specialist to do the cambelt. Volvo cambelt was £10 and tensioner £37.00. Labour of 2 hours £60

Bought a 1996 Volvo 940 SE LPT auto estate a few years before selling the 240 for £250 5 years ago now, as 940 has ABS, drivers airbag, Electric sunroof and AC fitted but not working. I was concerned going from a basic 240 GLT to a turbo 940 more to go wrong. Thankfully only needed recovering once, for a failed in tank fuel pump which I replaced myself end of last year. The next day it failed it's MOT on lower steering UJ play and track rod end/ball joint. Not bad for a 24 year old car and 204,000 miles No advisories. So I like older Volvo's,  not newer.

Also have a Toyota Auris Hybrid estate and the 940. In 15 months of owning Auris has had new AC condenser and 12 volt battery. Thankfully AC rad was replaced under warranty. Car now has 34,000miles.

James.👍

 

Thank you James for such a comprehensive post! I love these owning experience tales. Being able to do things yourself really makes a big difference to the cost of ownership - hence why my main concern is reliability above all - and the fact of the inconvenience of having the car off the road for repairs.

A cracking story thank you. IF ........IF I was to go away from Lexus an Auris or Corolla hybrid estate would be my choice.

[Malc]

over the 20+ years of my 3 x Ls400s ownership I've always found a competent and diligent indy at indy prices and OEM but less expensive than full normal Retail Price parts generally, to keep my cars going without too much hassle or overawing expense or loss of use of the car at the time.

My largest expense ever was a couple of years ago when I replaced in short measure all 4 UCAs and 4 new tyres at the same time almost ........ oh, and cambelt, waterpump etc and then the alternator too  .........  it gets less painful the older one gets and the greater the power to spend what little one has on the things one wants to in life rather than absolute necessities, like gas and electric, council tax etc 

Knowing she's well set-up for another 10 years / 100k miles probably ......  might see me out from a 4ltr V8 to a mobility scooter ......... can one get a bespoke V8 do you think !

29 minutes ago, Spacewagon52 said:

Being able to do things yourself really makes a big difference to the cost of ownership - hence why my main concern is reliability above all - and the fact of the inconvenience of having the car off the road for repairs.

Malc

[steve2006]

That V8 will still be going strong Malc even if it eventually falls out of the shell......a mobility scooter, a couple of custom engine mounts and a V8.....can’t see any problems with that.

My name is already down for the Tesla Mobility Scooter, there’s no way I’m getting halfway across the road and the green man goes back to red.