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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/09/2023 in all areas

  1. Sad to hear that, many, many years ago when I was self employed I had a very large tax bill to pay one January and my only path was to sell one of my cars to instantly sort out the tax bill. It happens in life, what was amazing that I sold my beloved Isuzu Vehicle-Cross to a very nice guy who looked after it very well and as fate would have it I bought it back after about 8 years. So as I said to my girlfriend/wife at the time, small sacrifice now for better things in the future
    3 points
  2. Hi chaps, sorry for not updating sooner! So yes, the service centre confirmed that the service history was correct and that the mileage was 75k+. They couldn't actually confirm the exact mileage from the ECU, however there were some historical data capture points with mileage (such as the 12v battery replacement) which match up with the service history. They suspected it could be a replacement speedo, however they couldn't confirm that without taking the whole dashboard apart. They gave me detailed print outs of the service history and the hybrid health check certificates. I've been in contact with the dealer to understand what my options are. I have more than enough evidence to just get a full refund, however I'm considering just taking a partial refund based on the higher mileage. The car itself is in great condition, which the service centre technician also commented, so I'm reluctant to have to hand it back. That said though, if I do take a partial refund it will need to be a significant one. As of now I'm still waiting to hear back from them, although they have acknowledged and accepted they have farked up on this.
    2 points
  3. Exactly why I don't like Apple - too locked down. If you want to do something that Apple haven't anticipated, or even do something in a different way to the "Apple way", you typically can't. Having said that, Microsoft Teams is the bane of my life and I would happily consign its designers to the nether regions of hell!
    2 points
  4. Welcome Tish, Obviously I cannot give an authoritative opinion, but I share your concern. To buy a quality car, and then not bother to have it serviced regularly, suggests that it hasn't been 'loved' or shown the care that a piece of well-engineered machinery deserves. There's probably been some 'penny-pinching' going on, and that doesn't auger well. If you've not yet seen the vehicle, and are easily able to do so - I'd go and have a look just to see the general state of the body and interior - but I can't help thinking that will only confirm your concerns.
    2 points
  5. That's fine at the moment, where the ratio of chargers to EV's allows it. But the indications are that provision of chargers is not keeping up with sales of EV's so at some point in the future there will be big queues at all the charge points....... As we saw over Xmas with the Tesla charge points.
    2 points
  6. i met up with Toby last year when I had problems with my muffler delete and saw all the mods he has done to his. Really nice chap and lives very near me. i hope to catch up with him again this year when the weather gets better.
    2 points
  7. Ah! Cars are becoming more complicated! I can remember if the Mini driver's door didn't open from inside, it was most likely that the string had broken!
    2 points
  8. If you do decide to go for it, please log project progress with lots of pics on here. Plenty will follow and make up the cheerleading section.
    2 points
  9. You and Steve (WIL44) seem to be the only ones who have really upped the mods on your cars in the UK. I think the general age demographic of owners and their numbers in the UK determine the extent of mods carried out. That plus the cost compared to the value of the car. I myself have spent about £5500 on mods but £3500 of that was on the wheels and tyres alone.
    2 points
  10. Hello to one and all my heads saying sell. Things change we no longer travel to Europe by car. at the moment I am doing 100 miles a week down to my partners and back, she is in Bahrain for 5 weeks so the cars not moving very far at all.looking on the drive I am seeing a £40k plus car going no we're . The car is on Auto-trader the link is on the forum page "lexus cars for sale) My plan is to down size to a RAV4 up to 12 months old and have a little cash over. I will keep the this page updated . I've had 2 calls in the first 20 mins so it's looking good thank you
    1 point
  11. It's especially cheeky knowing that the Lexus navigation is horrible, clunky, outdated and outmoded. To the OP - either use Google Maps, Waze, Sygic or something else on your phone, or if the infotainment system will take Android Auto or Apple Carplay, install that and use Google/Waze/Sygic through that. I'm not sure about Sygic but certainly Google Maps and Waze are freely and frequently updated at no cost. Waze is my personal favourite and not only are the maps updated very frequently, other 'Wazers' can, and do, upload live updates about roadworks, traffic jams, and other problems or hazards. For example, if someone sees a roadworks site just being set up, they can have that information uploaded and live on the map within a couple of minutes.
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. A quieter tyre may be easier to get than a different suspension. Continental UltraContact has low noise and lower fuel consume than most sports tyres and still have good braking class A in wet. They are summer tyres, so no good in really cold, frosty or snow, but with the global warming everybody keeps speaking about, that should not be a problem. Most of the year summer tyres and if going to Norway in Winter you need different.
    1 point
  14. The ride isnt massively better on the different trim levels to be honest. It's one of the smoother cars in its class so if you're troubled by it you'll need to step up to something like a GS or E class size
    1 point
  15. I have had two Volvo's previous to my getting IS300h comfort & my wife tells me the IS is quiter & smoother than both. I must say it rides potholes a lot quiter without the clanks. Mine has standard suspension & 17" tyres.
    1 point
  16. White has more bhp 😉
    1 point
  17. You are very lucky its not blue (or maybe I am) as I would have bought it before you put it up for sale. Hopefully still see you around buddy. Good luck
    1 point
  18. Update: Called my broker again to discuss possible new policy. Spoke to a different advisor who wanted to check with my underwriter herself that they wont "upgrade" my current policy. They agreed to upgrade and not only that, totally free of charge! (Highway/Liverpool Victoria - Modified Car Policy)
    1 point
  19. I think its worth seeing the vehicle and seeing how it drives. If the price is good i.e. £3-4k less than an equivalent car with Full lexus service history at a Lexus dealer it might be worth a punt. You won't get any serious long term damage with an oil change at 16k miles and also over 2 years if its only travelled 8k in that time. For piece of mind you could get a Lexus service which would then give it 1 years Relax warranty
    1 point
  20. You're a star mate!
    1 point
  21. Haha ... and there I was thinking it was just me that had nothing better to do 😂 .
    1 point
  22. The keys with the latest CT, slide apart. Almost broke the key trying to prise it apart following the videos.
    1 point
  23. Rather than buy another SC part of me wants to swap the RX for a GSF but the price they sell for is above what I want to spend. They may be rare but around £40,000 for a 7 year old car I think is overpriced compared to other Marques. If it was £30,000 I would be tempted. They also seem to hang around for bit before they sell which may mean it is not on many peoples wish list. I bought a four year old BMW X5 M50d from a BMW dealer that was £75.000 new for £29.000 with 60,000ml on the clock. When I sold it to buy the RX it was 9 years old and I struggled to get £17,000 at 84,000ml. The first LC500's which I love also go for around £50,000 now but again there doesn't seem much of a market for them.
    1 point
  24. My Dad bought a new S-Type 4.2 V8 and kept it for about 10 years (130k Km). The dust covers on the ball joints are a common issue with those. They were replaced at least twice in his ownership. Apparently even the Jag dealer admitted it was a common problem but that Jag remedied it in later models with a different type of rubber. Despite how much money he spent maintaining the S-Type, he then went and bought an XF 3.0 Diesel and that had zero problems until 90k Km when both turbos died (bearings failed). Dad never got those fixed as he didn't live much longer himself. We gave the car to a good friend of his (it's otherwise immaculate), and he spent €5000 getting it back to running order. It should last him at least another 60k Km but neither of these experiences would persuade me to ever buy a Jag. The only reliable Jag I have ever heard of was the X-Type, but then that was a rebodied Ford Mondeo. The corrosion sounds about right for a 24 year old Jag. Since it's only surface, some work with a wire brush and some Kurust will soon deal with that. The rest of it smacks of someone too lazy to do the pre-MOT checks himself, items like the headlight, number plate light and the tyres.
    1 point
  25. I would like to be able to change some of the lock settings etc on my car, and techstream seems to be the way to go
    1 point
  26. Any views here would be very subjective without a lot more detail on car / previous ownership / dealership / cost / warranty etc. etc However I would be very suspicious and nervous about this car. why wait 18 months and 16k miles before 1st service, and also it is almost 5 years since a Lexus service with the included hybrid check ( did the independent garage perform this?) and the extended warranty this check provides. So state of batteries would be of concern mot from last year - assume dealership will provide full Mot if purchased. what warrenty on car and does it include batteries
    1 point
  27. My first Lexus would have been V704 TAV had I not put a personalised plate on it!
    1 point
  28. Hi guys, I have had a response from them, see below.
    1 point
  29. I really would stick with Techstream unless any of the others also show the sub-codes, because they help to narrow down the possibilities even further. Look at this example below: OBD codes are not guaranteed to show you the fault and that's it, it's more of a guidance tool or starting point for further diagnostics. In the example above you can see that code P0AA6 covers six different scenarios, with only the sub-codes to differentiate between them and to help guide you.
    1 point
  30. There is no mention of owner's, if it's just the one, it might worth finding out more information but if it's had 4 or more especially more changes of hands in the last few years I would be concerned.
    1 point
  31. I missed a bit in my first sentence. The Apple products work very well together, as long as you are willing to live in the Apple walled garden. Try anything outside their "box" and yes I agree it's very frustrating. Where I work we have a mix of Apple and Lenovo (WIN) products, for us they are a much of a muchness in comparison.
    1 point
  32. Sorry to hear that Kieran. Hope it works out for you.
    1 point
  33. I’m similar numbers, tonight’s full charge is estimating 47.5/40.4 in the app my charge point says it added 12.66 kWh with an estimated 27miles, given the 2.1 m/kWh which the car is reporting. Therefore actual estimated range (given the 3 miles left when put on charge) should be 30 miles. I’ll see what my actual mileage is but I feel that 30 is far more accurate than 40 so I don’t know what algorithm is being used by the car for the estimate. We’ll see tomorrow 😁
    1 point
  34. Have you checked the child lock switch on the door edge?
    1 point
  35. I’ll pencil you in then, James, as definitely not a fan. 🫤
    1 point
  36. I think the icon in the very top right of the screen let's you configure the layout of the individual frames on the screen. I can see it matches your current layout. Paul
    1 point
  37. Tonight's charge indicating 48.5/43.1. Car is 11 months old with 8800 miles on the clock.
    1 point
  38. Good news ,took it on a track abd the isf doesn't have a limiter.It went past 180km. Well chuffed.
    1 point
  39. My approach has always been to try and help now, and you never know in the future who else might benefit.
    1 point
  40. Just an update on this. So I got hold of the workshop manual and its very clear that toyota dont use any special blend of chemicals or magic portion from the factory that must not be tampered with. The workshop manual clearly details the procedure to drain and refill the hybrid transaxle and specifies using ATF WS. So i have booked it in with Lexus Hayes for tomorrow to get it done. They've quoted £130. Will update once ive got it done if I notice any improvement in smoothness etc. I guess it probably wont make any difference but at least I'll know theres good fluid in there.
    1 point
  41. I was tempted, just I’m north west and getting to the start point involves a drive through Wales 😂 plus a while back during a previous trip through wales….
    1 point
  42. Thanks for offering to organise this & would have loved to join, but unfortunately busy that weekend.
    1 point
  43. Hi Glyn, I think all kits need a bit of fettling, even the really expensive, well known brands from Japan. It's fun to do but you would probably need some dry space/rent a garage/lock up. I modified the kit, filled in the marker lights, had a challenge with rear lights and headlamp washers but it wasn't too bad. When I bought the SC as a project I knew it was going to be an expensive journey, I just didn't realise how long I was going to keep it or how far I was prepared to go with it. I doubt any other SC in the UK could match it for 'entertainment' but if I reveal that it has cost around £22k in mods so far then I think that confirms Perry's take on it.🤣 For examples of owners with class, subtle mods, see Lex legends Texsexlex in the US and WIL44 in the UK.
    1 point
  44. So I have now replaced the front dash speakers - a significant improvement. I suspect that this would be a good upgrade for anyone even keeping to the stock amp. The space is very limited on the drivers dash speaker, the passenger side has a little more and the centre is frankly huge - very deep. I spent quite a bit of time looking at various products and went with 4" Audison APX4 - I can safely say that these fit and without any modifications to the car, only the speakers themselves - you need to remove 2 of the opposing lugs on 2 speakers and partially increase mounting lug holes. I also put the centre speaker into a slightly crude adapter purely to keep the logo oriented correctly - not that you would notice when the cover is on! The APX has a very slim flange where as a lot of other products have a sizeable flange - the Audisons look to be about 1-2mm. I found that anything bigger would foul the speaker cover - things are pretty tight between the top of the speaker and the cover + the drivers side needed a 4-5mm shim/spacers to clear the vents underneath. It would be nice if these aftermarket speakers featured a better connection as spade connections feel a bit crap to be honest. I retained the original Lexus connector as I wanted everything to stay OEM on the car. Ideally I would have found some connectors and may order some from China - the only place I could find them. For now I modified some Toyota audio connector pins to push into the Lexus connector. Not very pic heavy as unfortunately lost track of taking them but some below. You can see the old 2 side and centre speakers against the Audison. I got these for 160£ for 4 - which means I have a spare if anyone is interested in doing this upgrade! The Audisons are a really lovely looking speaker and the fact the tweeter isnt raised is another great help. They sound fantastic!
    1 point
  45. This looks like good value for money. If I didn’t need to keep mine from being taken back to stock to retain it’s value easily I would be tempted. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403922825980?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0c2XQ1bCR3S&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=fgLYK3NFS2u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
    1 point
  46. You're nearly there. I've reeled you in so now it's time to let you off the hook. Perhaps I was expecting too much but it was a bit of fun to see if anyone has a honed eye for tyre treads. It's being overly meticulous but the left n/s tyre is the 'oddity' as it's a 4-Season, the other three are summer tyres! I know I know ... "how on earth am I supposed to spot that?", especially as the o/s front tread is hardly noticeable in the pic. But hey, if like me you've been watching Silent Witness then maybe now is the time to be a bit more forensically inclined! Thank you all for your interest, I shall be looking at tyre prices over the weeks ahead and must decide what to do to even things up. 😉
    1 point
  47. This Lexus-tech.eu doc gives some detailed info on how the system works. It's for the RX but I imagine it's very similar across the model ranges. Some of the different modes are not available on UK models (I have asked...) LIGHTING SYSTEM CONTROL ADAPTIVE HIGH-BEAM SYSTEM (AHS).pdf
    1 point
  48. I had my finger poised to reply,but Peter beat me to it, probably word for word. The only thing I could add is that Google or Waze maps from your phone are much more up to date and free(if you have a reasonable data allowance).At least that's my plan for about a month's time when my 3 years are up. As an aside,if your 3 years are up soon,you will also lose AA cover.I've just noticed that Lexus badged cover with AA has gone up to £150 pa. I must check if there's any difference between the levels of cover between AA/Lexus.
    1 point
  49. This is the link, but note there is no ‘h’ in haigs… http://www.haigshotel.co.uk/
    1 point
  50. well I've fixed mine and returning here to post how! I've tested the resistance on the fuel pressure sensor ( on the fuel rail ) and it was fine and within spec, the problem I had was the pressure discharge valve/ suction control valve - the thing that lives on the back of high pressure pump attached by allen keys- the values that I had for resistance didn't match what I was told is the correct readings, however, even the replacement valve had the same 'incorrect' readings, so maybe that changes based of the part code and pump used. removing the valve can be done easily with engine in, however, the replacement part that I sourced through a local diesel specialist was actually longer than the original, so re installation required undoing the engine mounts from below the car and jacking the engine up and giving it a wiggle to be able to reinstall the new one- fiddly but much easier than removing the whole engine to replace the pump! the reason it's now longer is that the original lexus part and pumps are actually discontinued from denso and to make things complicated, those valves are paired by part code to the fuelpump part codes, so you can't just take a valve out of a breaker car if the pump part code doesn't match. knowing the part codes (black sticker ontop of pump and an etched code on back of sensor) I was able to get a valve for use on the newer revised high pressure pump- even the specialist who sourced this suggested the pump would be required aswell... after a prime for 2 mins it fired straight up, so despite what lexus and specialists will tell you, you do not need to replace the pump at a cost of £1200. you need a £120 part. if you happen to have this problem remember that the pumps and valves must match, so people breaking them sell the whole pump assembly, which given this is a common problem I wouldn't suggest saving money there, especially when you think that it will require the engine to be removed to even get the damn pump off!
    1 point
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