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some better pics

wheels are on!

Had some time of Thursday evening to put it together. Tested it and no knocking [emoji106] Cheers for the help all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to the bank holiday, plans for a wheels off full clean and detail! 😄

Sorry. Google got it wrong that as US gallons. Imperial gallons to litres is 2,600. So about £3,000 on petrol. It could have been double that and would still be a bargain.

By all accounts chose the RCF over the new Supra

Ready for sports cars in the park this weekend 😎😎

Just a quick warts and all assessment of the first 1000 miles in my ES. All typed into my phone so please excuse lack of proof reading! The car is an Fsport with Takumi pack. THE GOOD Quietness - a very quiet and insulated cabin. once you are at cruising speed, its impressively quiet. Engine - the new 300H unit is much improved over the old one in my IS. It is now capable of cutting to electric power at high speed (circa 80mph) and in Eco mode this will combine with the active glide control so that you are gliding along without the regenerative system slowing you down. Although the power rating is similar to the old unit, it does feel abit quicker. Efficiency - also improved, 50mpg is easy to achieve on a journey, that’s impressive for a big car. Handling - I’m really pleased I went for the Fsport with the adaptive suspension set-up. Although it’s not the most advaced set-up, it strikes a very good balance. In eco/ normal mode it has a nice comfortable ride, with a nice degree of ‘wallow’, the 19inch wheels detract from this a little but it’s still good. Sport and Sports+ just tightens it up enough to give it a sporty edge. You would never take it on a trackday, but it feels a nicely resolved set-up. Front wheel drive is really not an issue in handling terms. Audio - the ML setup is fantastic, I’m a self confessed hifi geek and feeding Lossless Tidal hifi into the ML system sounds incredible. I’m going to play about with master quality files to really stretch its legs. The quietness of the cabin also helps the audio playback. Quality - everything feels really well screwed together, if feels a high quality product. Size - it’s a big car at nearly 5metres Long and the interior space is huge. You can stretch the front seats right back and there will still be ample room in the back. But it doesn’t feel like a large car to drive, I think this is a combination of a relatively low curb weight (1750kg?) and good front visibility. Exclusivity - it’s a little thing, but the number of ES’s sold will be tiny in the UK. You feel like Toyota have spent billions of dollars developing a car just for you. I think the chances of seeing another car on the road this year are very small. It’s nice to drive something a little different. Details - lots of nice little touches. keyless entry working on the back door handles as well as front. it’s a small thing but when you are parked in a car park it means you don’t have to squeeze your way to the front handle. Front radar is hidden behind the Lexus logo,so no unslightly black plastic square in the grille. If you have the sun blind up and reverse the car, it automatically lowers. It has a G meter! The Takumi pack includes a credit car key, pop it in you wallet and you don’t need your keys. Heads up display is massive and contains all sort of information such as audio track name, it will also just flash up with a massive red ‘BRAKE’ sign if it thinks you are going to hit the car in front....the front internal lights are touch sensitive. the auto function for the heated wheel and seats works really well. Adaptive led headlights are fantastic, they also include cornering lights. When you turn them on they go through some sort of lighting sequence, Again abit bling but nice. The front indicators are sequential led, again abit bling (but nice). If you get too close to the car in front in slowing traffic, you can temporarily mute the parking sensor with the ok button on the steering wheel. THE BAD Seats - although very supportive and look good, they are synthetic in the FSport. They really should be leather. The leather trim on the dash, wheel and gear selector is good quality but it’s a big omission for the rest of the cabin to be synthetic but I did know about this beforehand. No vented option on seats, this was great in my IS. Front wheel drive - it’s a very good set up but with the UK roads, when you hit a bad pothole it will loose traction and the TC will light . A really bad surface will leave the front trying to find grip and you will get a sideways movement on the front end. It’s a typical FWD trait, RWD is a more composed setup for poor road surfaces. Cabin - there are a few cheaper plastics on the bottom of the door trims, it’s a typical Toyota setup which is fine. However, the areas around the base of the centre console should be better quality materials. Exterior chrome. The chrome detailing to the front and back is smoked on the FSport. The sides of the car has unsmoked chrome. It’s a little thing, but that is just odd!! Rear privacy glass. It’s too dark, it’s basically black. Boot - Width and depth is good but the sloping rear profile robs it of height, it’s adequate size but not brilliant. infotainment - the 12inch screen is great, no problem using the trackpad, it actually works very well. The system feels under-utilised. There is an App Store but no apps? No CarPlay, only miracast? No idea what this is but not supported by Apple. 80% of it is good, it just feels like the last 20% is unfinished. cooling fan - the battery pack under the back seats has a cooling port at low level on the drivers side. I’m not sure if it’s on at all times but I parked up the other day and you can actually hear the fan working behind you. My impression of the first 1000 miles. In general, I’m a very happy customer.

Hi folks, I’m new here so hi to all. I bought end of 2018 a 2002 SC430 with 135,000miles. After going from a new Toyota Aygo many years back to a new Verso S, then eventually we bought a dealer loan car 10th Anniversary Prius, loved it. Eventually the wife wanted an SUV and my local dealer had a Lexus RX450H 2009 model for a very low price available with 112k, we jumped at it so traded the Prius in with 50k, haha. The Toyota / Lexus reliability have been sold to the wife so we’re not bothered about mileage. She then wanted a convertible to use in and off, always wanted one so I could have gone down the MX5 route but I wanted luxury and managed to get an SC for £3k from someone local to me. It needed some TLC. It did have quite a few niggles, so good price. All the speakers were knackered so bought the refirb kit from a company in USA and now works perfectly. The backs of the seats were falling off so reset those, the electric aerial wasn’t working so I bought a new aerial and replaced that, the nav didnt work after 1 week so replaced the dvd unit in the boot off an LS430 and working well now, the boot had lots of rust from water so painted al that with rustproofing, drivers window would work on switch so took apart and fixed switch, I got a custom exhaust fitted as the original was falling off, the rear boot wouldn’t unlatch so had to use the manual pull in the centre box between seats, after lots of WD40 on the boot latch all is good, the stereo power wood cover wasn’t operating but found the cable disconnect. I got a garage near me to give it a full once over and replace all fluids, spark plugs, battery. They also replaced a front calliper, the radiator was also leaking at the top and had to go to lexus as knowone made an aftermarket version apparently, I did try but no good only custom and Lexus was cheaper. Id done some mods along the way also. i got it back and on my way home from the garage it started having P0335 knock sensor issues so it went straight back, my garage had no idea, it would restart and smoke from the engine, Nightmare! Eventually I fixed it by replacing the coil pack last week. Warmer weather, so I need to get the car sorted! So now the car is mostly fixed and working. I’ve still got a few issues if anyone can help? 1)The aerial has eaten another aerial, any way of adding a stumpy type? I may just disconnect the motor and plug the aerial cable into a fixed one and put that in behind in the boot if not. 2)The power mirrors, they work but don’t go in and out all the way 95% of the time, is there a fix? The passenger side only goes up and down not left to right? 3)The boot leaks, the wells either side in the back get pools in them so I have removed the rubber bung so it doesn’t look and just drips out, any idea where it comes from exactly? 4) The windscreen washers and headlight washers have randomly stopped working. No noise from pump, nothing! I checked the fuse in the passenger well that says Washer and is fine, any idea? If there more fuses or a relay box? I suspect there is 2 pumps so would not think both gone as same time. 5)What’s the easiest way to swop out the front sidelights, got some LED ones I want to put in. 6)I’d like to swop out the rear light clusters to the later version, anyone know if a straight swop or a scrap yard etc that got any etc? 7)Does anyone do an ECU and/or gearbox remap for a few more HP without damaging anything? 8)want to keep the stock stereo, what’s the options on getting Bluetooth and reverse camera for some mod-cons. Can you swop out later model headunit that has Bluetooth? 9) Any other preventative maintenance I need to do apart from the usual? Was just going to follow what says to do in the Manual. 10)Any great modification worth doing? Thanks for any advise I get in advance, and sorry no doubt many of these questions been asked before. Take care.

Your aerial, use a Lexus one, I tried two cheap ones before, had no problems since. The leaks in to the boot, the leaing corner rubber nearest the rear screen has a whole in, these leads to a tube, thts drains. chech for the tube being connected, check if it is blocked. I took my headlights out to change all the bulbs. Bumper off i'm afraid.

Never been comfortable with second-guessing the engineers regarding braking systems. Unless I was tracking the car, or had significantly increased performance I would stick with OE pads. Cost is part of ownership...

Carporn mate. Absolute carporn 😎😎

That looks really good @Twellsie

I have covered about 1200 miles and averaging 50 mpg. Motorway driving about 48mpg at 70/74mph, urban driving 53mpg. My previous CT200h averaged 53mpg over 30000 miles.

Not sure Greenstuff are up to the job, too much weight and power. Red or Yellow should be more suitable, no idea how well they work on an F though.

As Colin says, the connection has a piece that needs pressing down to release it, it only goes down slightly. I assume you also have a slotted socket to remove the sensor?

I think there is a little tab in the middle which you push down which then easily allows the connector to pull away.

1 - if there is an issue then you go back to the sales outlet where you purchased the vehicle and request a repair, replacement or ultimately a refund (minus any fair use loss of value). Within six months it is the responsibility of the sales outlet to prove the fault didn't exist at time of sale. After six months the responsibility is on you - The health check report isn't going to give you information on when the fault occurred or how it happened, only that there is a fault now. You may need an independent engineering report to do that. 2 - if you are purchasing from a sales outlet then use one that gives an AA/RAC inspection health check report. Otherwise you purchase the vehicle and use the method 1 above. If you purchase from a private person then you could always ask them to get the inspection done prior to purchase. Let's not pretend this is anything other than an opportunity for the dealer to check over a vehicle they potentially haven't seen before, to find faults and win business. But it can be used to the owner's benefit too.

On advice from Lexus Guildford if the transmission starts to misbehave I will immediately have the problem diagnosed by that time it may be too late to save the gearbox.

When I bought my LS430 one of the metal brackets underneath had snapped - It had been previously welded but that had failed too - I then bought a used seat and swapped the parts over - the tried to sell the seat but had no luck so after 3 years sitting in the garage I reluctantly scrapped it. I would try and source a used seat in good condition - I bought mine then from Dewsbury auto salvage

Where else am I going to prey on old boys with expensive retirement cars? Aldi?

So... had a knocking since I bought my is200 a couple of months ago. Lived with it until I had some time this afternoon to have a quick look. Didn’t appear to be any suspension parts. Had a look underneath the car at the back of the brake callipers and one bolt appeared to be completely missing, gave it a wriggle and surely enough the thing was knocking around all over the place. Luckily had a spare so went to put it in and could only get it a little way in. Managed to push the calliper a little out of the way to look into the hole and the bugger had a sheered bolt in it. Spent the next hour trying to drill it out, broke a drill bit and an ‘easy out’ is now broken off and stuck in there. You can imagine it’s not been the best afternoon. Here’s how it’s looking Isn’t that just a pin and should come straight out anyway? I could only twist it with a strong arm. Any ideas with this would be much appreciated! Don’t particularly want to have to buy a new set of callipers to be honest and hoping what’s here is salvageable. Either way, rather alarming that this passed an MOT in Jan with this looking like it’s been that way for quite a while. Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Given the outrageous service pricing that Lexus dealers charge, you would think they would include this as part of a service. Certainly worth giving it a go to on older vehicles to get through the MOT emissions - no evidence on how well it performs against the alternatives out there though. Good price though: https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-ux/lexus-ux-2018-present/lexus-ux-engine-service-kits/lexus-petrol-fuel-system-cleaner/

LC500...I think...but the kids would complain as the rear seats are ridiculously compromised...but they’re not paying, so F*** ‘em. I think it’s just a more arresting looking car. Don’t get me wrong, my car gets looks - lots of them. But an LC500 in the wild, makes every other car look ludicrously crude - like a concept car has somehow escaped.

I’ve done 11,500 miles in 11.5 months (I know spooky!) and averaged 20.1mpg. Which equates to about 570gallons of fuel, which is 2,165 litres. Or about £2,500 on petrol. Bargain.

I've managed around the 35mpg mark on a journey from down Hampshire to Stoke on Trent, I attribute it to cruise control and an abundance of 50mph average speed zones.... as I do not have a light right foot!

Thanks, I will look at the Y joint and later A/F sensors but as you mentioned it's unlikely that both A/F sensors are faulty at the same time.

That's very good, I'll have to try it sometime.

It is possible for an exhaust leak after the sensors to cause this error as the engine can force in air back up to the sensor. Definitely look at the Y joint where the two banks join. Otherwise if there isn't a leak it may be that the MAF sensor just isn't working that well, or that both upstream A/F sensors are now lazy with age (unlikely).

Hi, I noticed that both codes P0420 & P0430 appears (in the same time) more frequently than few months ago. It happens when system is in Closed Loop (warmed) but not enough (just 5 mins) drive on A road. When the car is fully warmed (drove 15 miles) I cleared the codes and when the engine is still warm enough (driving a lot) then codes doesn't appears but when I allow the engine to cool down, the next time the engine is warm the codes appears. I cleared the MAF sensor already, changed air filter. I also read the O2 sensors readings but voltages jumping a lot from 0.1 V to 0.8 volts. Other readings seems to be ok such fuel trims (Short -2.6 and Long 0.7). I also checked A/F tests (rich and lean tests) and the delay is avarage 1.5 sec it seems that the cats are still working ok. There are no misfires. It's strange that the possibility faulty cats started exactly the same time. Next step will be checking the exhaust leaks but it also strange that there could be leak in both banks. Also, I had few trips (each over 1200 miles) on German motorways driving over 80 miles per hour and no sign of overheating or coolant leaks, changes in engine oil level. I guess, if there will be any problem with intake manifold then could be overheating or coolant leaks??

I guess if you were doing a long run to get that, what does it say for your average though? mine was 22 but has gone down to 20 since fitting the new exhaust. It's not the exhaust but the driver hooning around slightly higher up the rev band.

Certainly worth checking out both series but for me the series IV has a much better chassis for better handling and ride quality. Improved in every way. The series III was just a minor update mechanically on the series II, which itself was out of date. Series III also designed/launched at the low point in Toyota reliability together with poor engine designs that suffer carbon build up, VVTi issues, timing chain wear - the old 450h suffers transmission and battery issues along with similar engine issues.

Interesting how opinion differs on colour, as soon as I saw a red RCF I thought that looks great and the reason I bought one, everybody I meet say they love the colour too. I did look at a silver one which I thought brought out the lines/curves of the car. The only colour I did dislike was white way too domestic appliance in appearance for my taste and made all the worse with the carbon edition😉

Buy the best you can afford as everything should work if it’s been looked after ....full dealer service history can take the worry out of buying one but getting rare to find on a 10-15 year old car ☹️

If you are worried about quality, go to Lexus/Toyota, otherwise, go with what you’ve found. I’d expect them to be fine, just service them regularly (clean and re-grease) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Lithium soap based glycol grease?! I did today my rear callipers, just cleaned them and checked the pins and I used copper grease to lub them? Is it alright or I made a mistake?! Thanks Sorry Sam to hijack your thread, it is some job you have there! Keep us posted how you can sort it.

So just realised its been a whike since i updated this! Not much done really life has took over and been flipped 180 so this had had to go on the back burner! Anyway ive managed to finish the fuel lines and also installed a sytec fuel pressure gauge on the FPR Also managed to make the oil feed for the turbo aswell, used -4 braided ptfe hose andfittings all from viper performance. managed to neatly run it around the engine and down to the mishimoto sandwich plate. All the fluids are in and next up is the battery relocation. Once that is done i can sort out the vac lines and turn the engine over to get the oil round. Few more things i need to do before i can fire it up on the base cal. Also if any of you guys are on instagram, give me a follow on there, i post things on there pretty much as soon as they are done 👍 lexus_turbo_2jz

The one big thing going for carbon ceramics is there is no brake dust so you can have fancy difficult to clean wheels. Also when you wash your car be very careful, I live on a hill and I washed the car and came out my drive went down the hill braked at the bottom and nothing much happened, I actually landed up about two feet into the main road, fortunately it's fairly quiet where I live so no accident occurred. Didn't do that again.