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Hey Guys, its comming towards the end of the year and just want to wish everyone on here a merry christmas and a happy new year. hopefully good things will come in 2022.

It's a car seat, people move around on it getting in and out. For the warranty co to blame it on movement is laughable, it's like a shoe manufacturer claiming that your new shoes split because you'd been walking in them. This is not a cheap car, and I'm with Roy of the Rovers, I would be pursuing this vigorously.

Whether your seat covering is Genuine Leather or Genuine Vinyl, it is clearly unfit for purpose or has been fitted incorrectly. Contact the Dealer Principal in writing and make him aware of your complaint and dissatisfaction with the seat covering. Inform him that you expect the seat covering to be impervious to wear after 5 years service NOT THE LESS THAN 2 YEARS YOU HAVE EXPERIENCED and you would like it to be corrected.. Ask him how he would feel if his car seat had suffered similarly. If his response is less than satisfactory to you, then inform him in writing that not only will you inform the National Motoring Press ,you will have the covering repaired or replaced and seek to recover your costs via the small claims track of the County Court, plus any costs you have incurred, plus a sum for the inconvenience you have experienced. Do keep us updated on the progress you make and when you are ready please share the name of the Dealership which is causing you so much angst.

Warmly reciprocated and to all. Let's hope next year is less restricted and the pandemic wanes.

I had a claim for peeling lacquer on my 2015RX wheels rejected as a warranty claim but when the dealership pushed the issue Lexus Customer services authorised the refurb of all 4 wheels as a goodwill gesture. I would push the issue further.

Thanks for your reply Stephen but sadly, that video doesn't go far enough. Getting the head unit out was the easy bit but I did find out how to gain access to where I wanted anyway and I can say that I would never have been able to remove the side panel in the way you would logically think. It turns out you have to go in from the top because of the screws arrowed below, although once the top came off I found a way of routing the cables that meant I didn't need the side off at all anyway. Believe it or not, the worst thing now is that the main harness of the Vline only just reaches but it's under a bit of strain, so I'm going to cut it and splice in about 9" of new wire.

Hello to everyone you may find this useful . And a happy and safe Christmas to you all https://media.lexus.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/pdf/210927M-Full-Release-2.pdf

Please accept season's greetings to one and all here in Lexus Owners Club Usually I have to wait until Santa has been before I get my present, but this year Santa was early! Necessity means my pride and joy will be collected by the renowned Italia Autosport in Meltham and over the next two days they are going to carry out a full valet! What a brilliant present from my wife! Anthony

I dont understand the fuss. All leather will crease and that looks absolutely normal to me. If you sit on a seat you will get creases Its almost like going to the dealer for kerbing your wheels. The picture is wear and tear as far as I am concerned and occurs when getting into and out of the vehicle. Its simply made worse by using the vehicle for short journeys as it increases the movement in and out of the car compared to doing massive miles.

You won't get a B2799 code if there is a problem with the key or the transponders - that would be properly diagnosed by the system and the corresponding code generated. B2799 is a fault condition - communication error between the ECU and the ID box.

Speed cameras are just piggy banks, they should focus more on dangerous driving in general.

I have Tahara in my ES and it is perforated. I'm a heavy guy, 6 months and 6k+ miles, no creases. I would pursue this further, I'm sure it's worse than your pics are showing. It certainly would bug me for that to happen in such a short time/mileage.

Unless you are running with a bunch of other cars and they are all making the expected figures and you are not I would always take RR figures with a pinch of salt. How does the bum dyno feel?

Many years ago when I had a track prepped RX7 my car was always mapped by the engine rebuilders (an all too frequent event) on a rolling road. What I learnt from this was that certain rolling roads set ups 'flatter' the cars output and some don't, I believe the one they used a Dyno Dynamics rolling road didn't flatter the cars output but some on the market did give rather higher readings. So maybe these days they may be a bit more accurate than in the past.

I don’t like threads being left unanswered so thought I would update again. Took the rocker covers off again to find the timing had moved. This was odd as we checked the timing 3 times after replacement and rotated the engine by hand with no issues. when rotating the engine by hand there was a strange noise that would occur every resolution at a certain point- I can only describe it as a high pitch squeal. I then decided to get the crank shield off in the sump and take a look from below. It became clear that during rotation cylinder 4 was generating the noise. On closer inspection it appears to have bent a Conrod- so at least I have a better picture of what’s going on. I’ve decided not to rebuild the existing lump for fear of what other damage may have been caused, so a replacement engine is on standby and I’ll inspect the failure etc in more detail after. If anyone has done a transplant on a 450h and has any tips on the best method of approach please share ☺️

Well, if you ever travel through Derby and would like it checking on the Dyno I can ask my mate for a decent discount.

Merry Christmas Stew and I hope you get lucky with you request! Yes, it is a poor time of year to have it valeted but they are spending 3 days on it so I'm hoping carpet removal for cleaning is on their agenda! 😀

yes the umm.. length is rather ample

A quick Google and this video popped up. Not sure if or how it is supposed to work but a lot of comments say it worked for them.

Lexus-tech doc. Always worth a read.. Includes 12v battery maintenance Maintenance of hybrid battery.pdf

Hi everyone, just an update: I have taken the seat leather crease issue up with the dealership. They took photos and and told me that they had to submit to Lexus UK for warranty claim for a new seat cover. Yesterday, the dealership told me that Lexus UK rejected the warranty claim citing the reason for those creases is because movement on the seat rather than a manufacturing fault. I am very disappointed with Lexus UK's decision on this. I also find their reject reason laughable, as I don’t move my whole left leg on the seat while driving, including on the mid-left area where the creases formed. This is because my Lexus is an automatic car, and I only need to use/move my right leg/foot for the break and accelerator pedals. Over the last weekend, I have undertaken my own investigation as to the prevalence of similar creases on the driver seat leather in Lexus RX450H F-Sport vehicles registered over the last three years (2018-2021). I looked at pre-owned Lexus cars on sale on Lexus UK’s own website. Of the 6 Lexus RX450H F-Sport vehicles identified (from 100 to 3000 mileage), none of them have creases on their driver's seat leathers. In my case, I started to observe the development of those creases around the end of 3rd month of ownership and less than 2000 mileage. Can anyone advise what else I could do to make my complaint heard? Many thanks.

I have now ordered a Metra 95-8153 double din adaptor from the US because it doesn't seem to be available in the UK, despite the website I found stating they had 100 in stock!

You can ease off the conspiracies Malc. It's my old car. I think Geoff (G&M Motor Company) is being a little ambitious with the price but if he gets it then fair play to him.

As many are only too well aware, the 12v VRLA AGM original Panasonic battery in the third generation is only rated at 51Ah and unless it is regularly charged by one of several ways, it can go flat quite soon, particularly as the battery ages. So the risk of a flat battery increases at airport car parks for extended times for example. Certainly, there are ways to get the traction battery to work in an emergency but the fact that the 12v battery has been allowed to drop below a critical level means it's life will have been shortened. I therefore did a lot of research to find an AGM battery to upgrade the original one. (There are a number of free flow lead acid batteries that could be accommodated within the battery compartment under the rear hatch but I excluded these as I wanted to fit an AGM type like the original). I wanted a battery that met the following criteria:- It would significantly increase the Ah over the original Panasonic one. It would be less expensive than an original replacement, be widely available and have a long warranty. It would not be necessary to cut the actual battery compartment to install. It would be easy to remove the battery and fitted components so the next owner could return to stock if wanted. All of the above was achieved by simple changes to fit the 027 60Ah AGM battery, a size that is available from leading makes. I opted for the Halfords (Yuasa) one, using my Gold Membership 15% discount, as it provided a 5 year warranty. Furthermore, should the battery fail prematurely, there are many branches where it could be exchanged. It was necessary to jack up this battery to help clear the sloping sides of the battery compartment and also to pack each side at the top where the angle of the retaining strap secures it each side. This is critical as there is a correlation between the top and bottom packing and each must be right. You then need a way to get the existing earth strap back over the hump of the battery to its original fixing point. I achieved this by using an auxiliary terminal clamp onto which I screwed a brass post. (I could have used an after market earthing strap with a different end but wanted to retain the Lexus one). So the above are the bits I needed. I tried to make the packing parts complement the original as far as possible by making them out of black polypropylene. I cut the battery tray and let in 8mm of polypropylene to extend it. I must say that I have fused other plastics together fairly easily in the past but found polypropylene is a very difficult material to work with and I would not use it again! I would just omit the tray as it serves no useful purpose with an AGM battery. (I note that on some USA forums members have just cut the ends of each propylene tray and extended the tray by flattening the lip). The advantage with my extended tray is that if an owner reverted to an original battery, it would look very near stock. Even with the extended battery tray I had to alter the angle of the projection at each end using heat in order accommodate the battery clamping extensions. It would have made it easier to cut off these clamping extensions on the battery as they are just in the way, but would doubtless have invalidated the warranty should I have to claim on it. It would have been a lot easier to have made the two packing pieces that go beneath the battery retainer at the top out of wood. The bottom packer could be made of plywood, sloped in at the bottom, best used without the original plastic tray or with the lip at both ends of the tray let down. Cost of project in round figures. Halfords (Yuasa ) 027 AGM battery on offer with discount from local branch £103 Neg earth clamp and pair of brass terminal posts with allen screws , only neg used £ 20 Polypropylene for base and top packer £ 7 Milliput as core for top packers to prevent crushing £ 5 Vent elbow £ 6 Polypropylene DPC used 1 layer below tray and 1 above £ 0* C.T.1 Adhesive/filler thin layer between DPC and tray to take out welding unevenness £ 0* Swear box , should have been more!! £ 1 £142 *Had some of this from another job and not necessary if wood is used instead of polypropylene Well here are some pics showing parts I made/purchased before and after assembly. NB. I did find I had to reduce the length of the top packer on one side as it came up to the Red cover of the positive terminal. I also had to replace the vent tube elbow with a more standard size as the Panasonic one has a larger port. Finally, I had to further relieve the cut away in the compartment cover slightly to allow for the longer battery. If anybody else wishes to do this, feel free to ask any questions including where I sourced the brass post and auxiliary negative earth clamp, the only one I could find that was threaded to take the 8mm Allen stainless screw for the brass post – they are usually 10mm. Hopefully, from the narration and pictures below this should made it clear. 1st Picture - with compartment cover in place 2nd Picture - Parts used less vent elbow 3rd Picture – Installed, and to borrow an Allen Millyard expression ,“It fitted perfect”

I have very recently learnt from another member that Yuasa has now introduced a new AGM battery ref HJ-S5523L* with the same dimensions as the Panasonic fitted to the later series before the 4h gen RX 450h. This Yuasa battery is rated 57Ah against the 51Ah of the Panasonic original and should be a plug and play replacement. However, it is expensive at around £250 delivered and the one seller I could find stating a warranty, gave this as only one year. So if needed at short notice away from a closed Lexus dealer, it could be an alternative. However, this battery, which Yuasa label as 'Auxiliary', is double the price of the one I fitted but has slightly lower Ah rating and is significantly lighter, so likely contains less lead. The 60Ah Halfords (Yuasa) I fitted also has a 5 year rather than a 1 year warranty and is made by many others using the much more common 027 casing. So if you want to keep to an AGM battery as originally fitted, you now have the options of an original Panasonic, the Yuasa as above, or the 027 with light adaptions. Alternatively, if you are happy to replace with a flooded lead acid battery as some members have done, these can be bought at less cost and are more readily available in a suitable size. *If opting for this ensure you get the one with suffix 'L' as this battery has also been released with the same reference but with the suffix 'R', denoting that the + and - terminals are transposed.

The spec of the F Sport claims a leather interior not Tahara, and I don't think Tahara can be perforated as it would probably split. I just think the person who authored that article got that part wrong. You shouldn't be getting those creases on such a young vehicle - warranty claim for a new seat cover.

Ill give em £35k final offer