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It's a bit of a journey for me, so I won't be there in person, though will be in spirit. John still 'reminds' me to check the manual first, as I was doing yesterday... ( Having lost my own mother recently, I know the pain and huge jumble of emotions, that last longer than I thought and probably for ever.) My sincere prayers for John, his life celebration tomorrow, and his friends, family and forum colleagues.

Lexus recommends the following coolant/anti-freeze change: - 100,000 - Radiator & 150,000 - Inverter Its well debated online to follow manufacturer recommendations v Reports of early water pump failures due to the coolant becoming acidic. Dont over think it if you want to do it just get on with it. Mine is on 52k & 8 years old it was not due however if I leave it until it gets to 100k it would probably take 15-20 years before it is replaced i'm sure you will all agree anything more than 10 years is questionable. (Disclaimer - Do so at your own risk) Tools required 10mm deep socket & ratchet, Flat head screwdriver, Axle stand, funnel, Ramp, Jack, chocks, 10L bucket, Gloves, Cardboard, Lexuspartsdirect provide 7L of Pink Super long life coolant for the 100k service package. This was just right for both inverter & coolant. However if you run short you may run into trouble. Best practise to have 2x 5L bottles to hand. The remaining you can just use for top up as necessary in the future although its a sealed system there shouldn't be any leaks if your loosing coolant theres a problem! Warm the car up, put heater temp to max, airflow (blower) on lowest. This will open the thermostat & drain the coolant from the heater Matrix assisting in getting most of the coolant out. SAFETY FIRST Drive the car onto ramp, apply handbrake, chock rear wheels, if you want to lift the car higher jack it up & place axle stands. Remove the plastic undertray held on by 10mm nuts & plastic push fit clips. Place your cardboard under the car now. You will see 2 drain valves dont remove them initially just loosen so it can start draining position the bucket right under the drain valve so you catch the coolant you can control the flow. *It may be hot if you warmed the car up so be very careful* - Yellow drain valve is the radiator coolant & white is the inverter. One at a time doesn't matter which I chose to do the inverter first. Approx 20 mins for full drain. Remember to tighten both of the drain valves back up. Now go to the top remove the inverter coolant cap using your funnel slowly pour coolant until it is above the F marker. You want to slightly overfill the reservoir to start with so it doesnt run the inverter pump dry as soon as you try to start the car it will bleed the air and gulp the excess coolant. >>>>> Do not mix the caps <<<< Next remove the cap for the radiator reservoir & top up to the Full mark. Now remove the radiator cap & Place the funnel there & fill coolant slowly until it pours out you will see bubbles coming out. You can help squeeze out any air locks by squeezing the rubber hose. Providing both reservoirs are full & there is coolant in the radiator you now want to bleed air out of the system to prevent overheating. Leave the caps off the inverter & radiator. Go to the car > foot on brake> press start within 3-4 seconds BEFORE the engine starts turn it off. Do this 2-3x. This will run the inverter pump sucking in the coolant. If the level drops below F top it up again to the Full mark. Thats inverter pretty much bled & done. Put the cap back on. You need to put the car into maintenance mode before starting the car so the engine remains running to warm up & bleed any air locks. Otherwise it switches to EV cutting the engine out not allowing it to warm up or do the bleed procedure. As soon as you start the car keep eye on the temp gauge. It should not exceed the normal operating range which is in the middle. What you want to do is let the car warm up & for the cooling fans to come in twice to ensure there are no air locks. The funnel may release bubbles which is normal bleeding air out & the coolant may try to come out of the funnel. Volcano effect its normal as it gets hot. Turn the car off, exiting maintenance mode. Now restart as normal & go for a drive & top up as necessary over next 2-3 cooling cycles it may need a slight top up. I appreciate this is a DIY guide & may not be the perfect method & may well have missed a step on here, but should it help anybody then thats great.. I have since done over 100 miles no issues. Upon observation I think the inverter coolant could easily go on another 50k the coolant was clear, however the engine coolant although not contaminated appeared cloudy so well worth doing I dont think it would have done the engine any favours for another 10 years. I probably wont touch it for another 5 years. Not a difficult job can be messy thats the only downside. Dispose of the coolant at a recycle centre & job done.

I would just do it for peace of mind. Why have that constantly worry in the back of mind that it might go at some point and it will be a very expensive job if it did compared to just doing the belt done. At some point you are going to have it done anyway so why not now unless you are not going to keep the car. Although if you were to sell it a new buyer would try and knock the price down if it hasn’t been done. Which means either way you don’t gain anything from not having it done. When I bought my 2004 car 18 months ago it had only done 7,300 miles yet Lexus still changed the belt because of the age of the car. They are also fitted new tyres and battery due to age. The radiator was changed as well but there seems to be some debate on the reliability of this on the SC.

Which makes it even more of a shame that they aren't selling the IS in the UK anymore. I would have seriously considered it as my next car if they had.

Hi all I've recently noted the private market increase in asking price for the IS300H lately . Has anyone else noted this ? Some 2014/2015 plate F sports are just shy of the 20k bracket ..(euros)

After owning my UX for a couple of years the five things I really like and use! Number one:the hands free boot release,once you get the knack it’s just so easy,for my sins I play golf 3 or 4 times a week and walk my dog every day so I’m always loading and unloading so this is a great feature. Number two: the Mark Levinson sound system with CD player,I know it’s old fashioned and I do have music on usb sticks but a I have large collection of cds(I still purchase Vinyl and CDs! but it’s a bit hard to play the vinyl in the car!) Number three: the heads up display,this is just so useful and easy and the fact that you never have to take your eyes off the road has got to be good thing. Number four: the heated and chilled seats,I’ve never had chilled seats before but when we do have a nice hot sunny day wow they are fantastic! Number five: this one will be contentious but I use the sport mode and paddles when I’m on a nice bit of road,I know it isn’t a sports car and I know it doesn’t have a gear change but it still puts a smile on my face. What five things do you like and more importantly use?

Age will be a factor too, so yours is still the original now 20-years old?

Same here. The newest version of the IS300h is super cool. I want to keep mine for a long time (partly because they don't sell the new one) but I admit that if they were to have it available in the UK, I would be looking forward to upgrading in a couple of years or less (fortunately my car can't read this so she won't be offended).

Holding their value at the moment a couple of factors. - The used car market after Covid went crazy due to lack of supply - EV/Hybrid now trending in comparison to diesels - Londons ULEZ expansion charge driving out old diesels - Low road Tax What I find interesting is Lexus/Toyota were well ahead of their time the IS300H if i'm not mistaken was initially in released 2013 production up until 2020 7 years is a long time yes their were upgrades & facelift version. It does show they it may not have been so popular 10 years ago because they were deemed as boring to drive now with the used car market alot of people are taking an interest & all of a sudden they are in demand. Well done to Lexus they were leading the 'Green' environment game way back. Same could also be said for Honda.

I think in the UK tyres should be rated for pothole damage resistance,noise levels when going in and out of them and road hump performance to give a true level of service life, comfort and noise levels. 😀

You are correct sir, it was definitely on AT a while ago ....

I'm sure that Hydrogen plant is a Saltend in Hull. If it isnt i think one is planned. Pleased to see one of our Cllrs keeps shouting about future is Hydrogen as well.

The Kama Sutra also gives some useful positions. It may also help you get into a position to access your fuse box.

A little late in the day, but just to say...Happy Easter. Happy, safe, content, healthy, peaceful.

Since I couldn't edit the title of the similar sounding thread I thought I'd re-do it so it's as clear as day. I was getting codes 1210 and 0273 after scanning with my copy of techstream. Permanent check VSC and engine light on and Brake light on and ABS light on my dash. It was really peeing me off. I don't know what made me check the connection from the wiring loom to the ABS pump but OMG I'm glad I did. How the hell water got into that multiplug I've no idea. These pictures tell the story. Anyway I had no choice but to get a replacement ABS pump which I did c/o ABS pump specialist in Cork Ireland through eBay. You have to be careful when choosing a pump because there are quite a few different ones even though they look the same. On top of the pump unit, the black plastic part, you'll see a series of numbers. Make sure you get matching numbers to what's on your cars pump. Anyway today I went to a local garage and the guy swapped over pumps and bled it. No more lights on my dash yippeeee. So if you're getting the check VSC etc etc disconnect the multiplug from the ABS pump to check for water ingress damage. If water got into mine then there's no reason it won't get into yours.

Yes familiar with the overflow tube and thats where it was spewing excess coolant from. When i checked when hot the bottle was nearly full not just upto the B mark and when the car cooled down I used a suction pump and removed nearly a quarter litre of coolant so as to ensure theres no more mess. I like keeping the engine bay clean. It now sits at the B mark when cold and goes slightly above that when hot. My car is at around 91k and the pump didn't totally fail, i wasn't loosing too much coolant but there was a pink crust around the water pump and after driving there would be white powder everywhere in the engine bay from a few drops getting flung by the belt and that drying up into white powder. Also it appeared that the pump was failing at the bearings and that means I run the risk of bearings seizing on say a long drive. It appears that others have also seen similar failure (at the bearings) and it sounds like it could be due to the design than the coolant going bad i.e the crankshaft pulley directly driving the pump pulley with no tensioner in between. I know lexus made changes to the belt at some point but dont think there ever was a recall in the UK or if this newer belt is any better at preventing failure.

That would be great Anthony many thanks again for taking the time to reply sir best regards Colin Many thanks for the welcoming reply I’m afraid if I was to try to attempt any of this I would only make it worse. I’ve had the car a week and took it to Lexus Glasgow for a health check. I’ve had a few Lexus over the years and they have been great but what’s needing done to the car is just too dear so I was hoping to find a decent garage It’s a 2004 with 93000 miles on the clock

This is really bad news. I think you would better to cut your losses and dump it.

Get it done Now Reassurance is worth much more than the cost of replacement

That's the thing.... for me the ES isn't an alternative because it's too large to handle it through the narrow streets of where we live, plus my driveway and garage are a bit tight. I like the interior of the ES but the wheels Lexus sells it with are way oversized for the engine and he type or car it is (most cars do nowadays).

Many thanks for the welcoming reply I’m afraid if I was to try to attempt any of this I would only make it worse. I’ve had the car a week and took it to Lexus Glasgow for a health check. I’ve had a few Lexus over the years and they have been great but what’s needing done to the car is just too dear so I was hoping to find a decent garage It’s a 2004 with 93000 miles on the clock

Agree that most of them staying within dealership network definitely factor in the price staying high. BMW i8 can be warranted by third parties, but indeed that won't be cheap. However BMW 8-Series compares quite well with LC and getting 12k miles 2020 car for £40k is actually no brainer, you can even get M850i for £43k. Obviously... argument could be had whenever L6 compares with V8, but both have their benefits. If V8 is important then again even M850 is cheaper and then M8 exists, but that costs more.

Its every 100000 miles or 10 years, which ever comes first.

Clarkson compares the Lexus to a fridge. 🙄 I have a Hotpoint fridge freezer that was made in Britain approx. 25 years ago. I may have replaced a light bulb many years ago but apart from that it has been completely trouble free. If my Lexus gives me similar service then I will be extremely happy 😀😀

Price wise I think a lot of the retained value is the rarity and the fact that most sell via main dealers who can keep the used prices up. The right spec sells quickly. As I’ve previously said I think the ten year warranty also has an effect. BMW i8 outside warranty - err no thanks! The LC seems to be in a class of one - it’s not as sporty as the 911 or F type and not as bargelike as something like BMW and Merc convertibles/coupes, it’s kind of in the middle. Plus it’s not turbod - there aren’t many NA V8s left now…

Parking charges can be expensive, have you compared the cost with either using a taxi or hire car? Your car may not be stolen or broken in to, but there is always the risk of door dings etc in a public car park, may be worth the additional cost for peace of mind.

Which is both their achievement and biggest loss. Sometimes being too far ahead in something is not great... and that was reflected in poor sales of Lexus hybrids. If they were PHEVs, it would have been different story, but Lexus somehow was way too late to that game. Likewise as Shahpor said, now they becoming more relevant and guess what - Lexus no longer sells IS in the UK. So the limited supply which was sold in very small numbers appreciates. As for prices, currently prices are all over the place, not only Lexus and not only IS300h... it may be temporary thing, it may be longer term, I think it is much more to do with external factors than some sort of Lexus 4D strategy (like car supply/demand/economic situation). It is ridiculous to think in 2016 I bought 2008 IS250 SEL (which would be now equivalent to 2017 IS300h F-Sport/Premier) for £4000... what is what used to be 6-years old Lexus price. Now you can't get one for £8000, not even £12,000. Well and I guess it is possible to argue 2016 was good time to buy mk2, as last of them were coming out of leases, first mk3 started coming out of leases and everyone just wanted to dump them. But 2008 IS250 will still cost you £4000 today... after 7 years! I has mine crashed, written-off, got £3800 from insurance and still sold the car with Cat-N for £2500... this is just not how used car market suppose to work, so I would argue this is temporary phenomenon. That said I have heard pure EVs are sinking like a rocks in value, there is no demand for them, no dealers want to PX them, no dealers want to take them and people taking massive price cuts privately. I wonder why that is?! So if you have where to charge one, this may be time to look for BEV. But Lexus prices are ridiculous at the moment.

OK for at home, but not much use when parking elsewhere though. So doesn't meet my needs.

I don't suppose he sweeps chimneys?

Hi Nick yes i bought the car from Tunbridge Wells Lexus Dealer I asked the seller if it had been in any accidents and he said No I never noticed the gap near boot and bumper I took it for a oil change to lexus Hull and that was when the Gent told me, he looked it up on the Computer and it had had a replacement bumper fitted. Due to the slight bow in the crash pad it had not been fitted correctly hence the gap when i asked if they could do anything he said Body shop will have to have a look. So as i said i took it to my local body shop in Thorne and he had it done within the hour as been ok ever since.

Hi John, £160 for the pair from Parts in Motion via eBay.

It will help if one's completed a four-year-long apprenticeship with Cirque Du Soleil, and one's mastered dry-shaving with a broken bottle whilst in a backward somersault. But don't worry if not (we all have to start somewhere!)

There's only three main places for fuse boxes, those being the engine bay, the driver's footwell and the passenger footwell. There may be a couple of other locations but they're only small ones (2 or 3 fuses) and are local to the devices they protect. You're not looking hard enough. Lie on your back with your head looking towards the top of the dashboard and ye shall see 'em. EDIT: It's possible that you may have to pull the carpet out and away to see it.

I haven’t followed Clarkson for many years but am surprised to hear that he still manages to irritate people. Surely what he says about a car is less important than the entertainment value he aims to provide by saying it (not always successfully).

I do generally quite like him BUT some of his car reviews are rubbish. The only car that he really likes is a Range Rover and we know how reliable they can be.😅

Happy Easter, to those of us still here and those of us who have risen.

On a roll over the holidays, replaced the rear shocks, top mounts, insulators and bump stops this morning. All OEM apart from the shocks which are KYB to match the fronts. I had put off this job because I’d read that it’s a pain removing the rear struts, needing to compress the springs on the car to remove the strut. After watching a YouTube video using ‘the method’ for doing this, it turns out it’s a load of hogwash. There is no need whatsoever to compress the spring on the car to remove the strut. All that is needed is to remove the bottom shock bolt, knock the shock off the hub, remove the top mount nuts (if not removed already), push down on the hub so you can lower the strut enough so the top mount studs clear the fixing holes, rotate 90 degrees, lower the bottom of the strut into the gap between the suspension arms, tilt towards you and remove. Absolute piece of cake and I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was. Invest in a white paint marker pen and mark everything on the existing strut while on the car to make things easier later on for alignment. Once the struts are off the car the tricky bit is aligning the shock, spring and top mounts so it’s in alignment to fit back on the car. I can’t document exactly how to do this but you need to use your noggin, comparing the strut you removed with the alignment marks and transpose them to the new shock and top mount. If you have no idea how to do this type of thing then don’t attempt it. Having an impact wrench on the spring compressors helps with reassembling the struts, the strut doesn’t move as much. Release the spring compressors gradually while checking the alignment is correct and adjust as needed. You can always compress the springs again and redo it. Getting the bottom of the shock to fit back in the hub isn’t straightforward because the bottom mount is not square to the shock. I found the best way is to push down on the hub and get the shock started at the back into the hub - aligned as best you can, using a mallet so as not to damage the new strut whack on the bottom ‘eye’ mount bit to get it into the mount. It won’t be perfectly aligned but it’s in. Then using a round tapering pry bar inserted through the mounting, jiggle it about to align it so the bolt will go through completely or about 2 inch, then tap the bolt with a mallet or hammer to get the both through. Putting the rear seats back in was a a pain because I was knackered, body was complaining and getting cramp in legs and fingers. Job for tomorrow was going to be the engine mounts, had a enough for a few days - my old body needs time to recover. Maybe a job for Monday😀

Good morning, I (we) have been bitten by the Lexus bug and had a GS300 and now an IS250. Both were planned as just a cheap ‘stop gap’ car but we have kept the IS250 as our London car as it is great for that (reliable, small enough, auto and a few scratches!). I’m keen to get a ULEZ compliant bigger car as our family estate can’t go into London as not compliant. I have always liked the LS460 and that might be the answer. Is the SE-L actually longer than the SE? I know the levels of kit are greater but unsure on length. Prices seem to be rather broad from £5000 - £10,000, for seemingly the same car, but I am after the cheaper end of the market. Thanks for the help and I hope to be able to do a new car thread on here soon! Dan

Hi Dan. I don't know. I suggest you ask in the LS section of the forum where you'll find knowledgeable LS owners who will be more than happy to help you.

'Customer service' in UK from most of the big companies is generally pretty deplorable at the moment, especially if you need help and assistance (as opposed to Sales). Having said that, I was very happy with my handover from Lexus Edinburgh. I wasn't rushed, despite it being the first day of the new 72 plate registrations. The cakes and coffee weren't as luxurious as the Japanese ones in the video (but were nice enough) and my freebies were limited to a couple of bottles of Lexus labelled water and a Lexus pen. Not as generous as the hamper I got with my last new car but, hey, they're free extras and I now have a nice pen that I didn't have before. I was contacted after a week or so to see how things were going. Overall a very good. but not exceptional. experience.

Morning Phil, I also just got my RX450h and it’s away for it’s MOT before I go to play with it. I love it so far and am looking forward to engaging with the group as I get to know it more.

Welcome to the forum, Philip. It's a cracking collection of folk, helpful, amusing, and incredibly informative. I joined 3+ years ago when we bought our RX450, and joined so I could learn how to repair/run etc, the car. The trouble is - - It's not missed a beat yet - so haven't needed to seek help! 😄. Great place to learn from others, though!

Forget ADT - I have an IP Camera - I fitted it myself, its a standard PTZ job with night vision and alarms and all the usual bells and whistles I found out from my research that many cameras are the same and just re badged - so that £400 PTZ camera may well have the same lens as the boggo ebay job that costs £130 - what you really pay for is conmnnectivity and software. I have a Synology NAS which acts as a HDD but my camera is one of the boggo cheap ones (£150 or so) but with essentially the same lens as higher priced models - the unit works fine, remote access and app etc but if I was picky I would say that its IP functionality - ie communicating with Synology and NAS devices is a bit weak but I can live with it for now - it is easy enough to upgrade if I want to - this was really just a tester to see how they work out

Interesting. I have it booked in on Thursday considering my insurance paid over €5000 for the repair I would have expected the job to be perfect. I will probably get a shrug of the shoulders and a lot of Gallic excuses!

Had Exactly the same problem when i purchased my Gs450 it was noted to me by the dealer when had first Service. I took it to my local Body Shop the took bumper of and found the (crash pad i think thats what he called it) had a bow in it not allowing the bumper clips to align with it. He had it done within an hour he charged me £50 been ok since

I would say that the gap shouldn't be there. Here's mine:

Great post and pics your car looks stunning Glyn like the 4 windows down looks great, might give it a go when I've caught up with my electric bills😀

The sun broke out today so I took the opportunity to fit the window module. It was pretty straightforward just undo two plugs, fix those into two on the module then the other two on the module plug back in where the original ones were after removing the boot trim. This then left running two wires under the rear seat to the centre console box. The worst bit was feeding these two wires through from the boot which was a fiddle as the hole they needed to come through was just up behind the seat back. I was being lazy as if I had removed the back of the seat as well it would have been a lot easier. It then enters the centre console compartment at the back where there is a plastic cover you pop out to release the boot manually if you ever need to. On testing the unit everything works well as you can see in the photos. A couple of observations are 1. The suppled cable is only long enough to reach into the centre console compartment so if you wanted to plug it in where the ashtray is you would have to extend the cable. 2. When you raise the quarter windows up or down you need to press once then again to go fully down or up. These are not really a great issue though it you want to be able to control your quarter windows independently to the roof. The instructions are very clear but at the moment I haven’t committed to memory the sequence for which button to press when. I haven’t driven the car yet so cannot comment if there and difference to wind buffering in either the up or down position.

From an insurance perspective I believe alarm systems have to be NACOSS approved (and there’s another accreditation option I think). Personally I’d find a good local alarm company and go down that route. Anything ‘DIY’ may do the job but - with my insurance as an example - likely won’t lead to any premium reduction. I’d rather have a professional advise and install as they tend to know the pitfalls. I had ADT a few years ago and it was hopeless. ‘Monitored’ - what a joke!

This is appalling and my wife’s RX450 was stolen the same way in the morning around 8 am in broad daylight in West London. I found the following links and absolutely would be interested in joining forces in pushing lexus to fix this software naivete of unencrypted CAN invader attacks. Here are links of all articles I found on internet https://www.asahi.com/sp/ajw/articles/14753409 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wojCtgZFPlE https://usermanual.wiki/Pdf/instructions.1960556484/amp https://www.reddit.com/r/Lexus/comments/yz0380/can_someone_tell_me_what_these_culprits_did_under/ https://www.reddit.com/r/Lexus/comments/yz0380/can_someone_tell_me_what_these_culprits_did_under/ https://www.rav4world.com/threads/can-invader-attack-unstoppable-new-rav4-car-theft-method.324413/ https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/209692-2022-rav4-stolen/