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Seeing as tyres are probably the most important safety feature on a car I would personally get a new tyre. I wouldn’t want that blowing out at speed!

I'll definitely be getting the same make (Bridgestone Alenza). The car has only done just over 7000 miles so the difference in tread depth between old and new shouldn't be too great.

Personally would get it replaced ASAP regardless of advice as you never know.......

Yes, change it before you regret not changing it.

Needs replacing safety first always with tyres.

Or possibly two to ensure you have matching tyres of the same make and wear characteristics.

As well as John's red roadster,I had a silver one.It cornered well ,as a lightweight mid engined car should.It wasn't particularly fast,but could be fast from a to b,given its handling.I found it tended to skip around about on bumpy roads.The handling tightened up a bit when I put the hardtop on in the winter.The alloy wheels corroded as fast as the car could corner..I think I had 5 replaced under warranty. My wife hated it and we didn't keep it that long and she chose the next car-a MercSLK 320. You can't compare a lightweight 2 seater roadster with a 4 door saloon.

If you're comfortable doing brakes on a car these are fairly straightforward. From memory, fronts require wear sensor to be removed on OSF, retaining clips for pins to be taken off and then pins removed, this gives you access to pull out the pads. Remove reservoir cap, push back pistons evenly. Do one pair at a time, leave the pads in while doing this to protect the pistons. Clean, remove caliper and support out of the way so no strain is put on the flexi. Having an impact screwdriver with the correct bit is almost a necessity I've found for removing discs, the one where you set the bit in the screw and hit the end with a hammer which shocks and turns the retaining screw. If you don't have one then clean, spray, pray, tap and try to remove the screw. Replace the disc, pads & shims and re-assemble. I always clean all the pins etc too. Rears, I can't remember now but I didn't have any issues and it was straightforward... If I remember I'll edit this post. There is a handbrake mechanism in the drum part of the disc, adjuster is accessible through the hole in the disc. There are two shims/backing plates for the rear pads and one is directional too so be careful when taking apart to make sure it goes back together properly. Also a good opportunity to replace the brake fluid too.

Update for the thread, located a windscreen from Silver Shield Windscreens, based in St. Ives, Cambridgeshire, confirmed via car reg, part number and tint! Went and picked it up today alongside a new chrome strip for the top of the screen, mega chuffed! Recommendation came from the LS owners on facebook and Simon who responded to my emails couldn't have been more helpful. The next hurdle of course is, getting it fitted (and will it?) 🤣🤞

A decent tyre garage would give you the best advice but it is probably safer to get it replaced. If most of your driving is slow - around town - you could risk running it for a while but if you do faster driving then safer to get it replaced.

There again you could place your phone behind the car and record as video then watch to see if all the lights come on. Once you are happy you can then put it on tik tok/Facebook/YouTube where it could go viral and people will then stop you in the street wanting to check your brake lights and have a selfie taken with you 😀

Yes I agree that it's a great car but the Link app is all part of the ownership experience and it just doesn't work. I can't now for instance lock the car remotely as it says the vehicle is moving! Vehicle journeys are almost all being recorded and service history largely upbto date but vehicle location and date is invariably incorrect. It appears that they address one issue only for another that previously worked to fail. Toyota Europe who appear to give the technical backup are clearly inundated as I am told that a fix could "take some time". This isn't good enough on a £60k premium vehicle and the previous enviable reputation that Lexus enjoyed is under jeopardy. I appreciate that when you purchase a newly introduced model there is a risk that teething issues may arise but the recalls to date and those in the pipeline lead me to believe that the NX was launched prematurely. I await to hear the dealership update this week.

Could this problem be something as simple as resetting the steering sensors. I don’t know about Lexus but I know that on a Mazda (MX5 at least) if you run the battery flat or disconnect it, after reconnecting or recharging you see a the VSC light flashing. The steering sensors need to to re-learn their positions, by turning the steering lock to lock a couple of times, turning ignition off and then on again this resets the system and turns the warning off.

Hi there, I'm on the hunt for a Lexus LS460. I'm struggling to find one that I like. I went to look at one yesterday but it wasn't as described. Ideally I'm looking for one with the 'L' package and beige interior. Anyone selling theirs? Thanks, Dan

Just received the same update on the app also, looks like things could be finally moving after 14 1/2 months.

Very likely not in top condition. A MR2 in top condition is not a slow granddaddy car like a heavy 4 door sedan. I have seen many MR2 with far too big wheels on them and that does not make them faster, they just look more - whatever. And right David, the Spyder is stiffer with hardtop on, but that is extra kilos not needed here on the island. The Spyder was without hardtop on handling far better than the 1984 Supra 3.0L Targa we kept only 3 months or so as it was by far the worst new car we ever bought.

Why would you take a big loss of 8000 US for a rattle in a brand new car?? I find this strange. You say your dealer could not resolve the rattle? Again strange. I have been looking for noises in various cars once an audi mechanic spent 2 hrs driving my car with me next to it and several ideas and an inspection on the lift gave the answer. Who was the dealer?

They are indeed runflats. I'm fully expecting to need a replacement. Just arranging the finance 😀 Cheapest I've seen online for a replacement is £274 (Asda Tyres). Maybe my local independent fitter will be slightly cheaper.

I had one of these for three years and 90K miles. I would say that dynamically it was superior in every respect to my IS250. But then I don’t drive the Lexus in the same way! The MR2 was a joy to drive and a pleasure to own. It was a strict two-seater but if you wanted to get away for a few days then you had to be a bit creative in stowing luggage behind the seats and under the bonnet. In all the time I had it, it only required regular servicing and the replacement of one main beam bulb. I’d be very happy to get in one again today - but I’d probably need a hand to get out! 😊 PS. Just noticed… unlike the photos, mine had the steering wheel on the correct side of the car. 😊

For me I got this update on 28/2 and then the build start date of 22/3/23. However it looks from recent posts that things are moving better. hope you get your build update soon

Just had the following email from my dealer today, I hope you're well. Just had a quick check of the order and supply information we receive from Lexus and it looks like delivery has moved forward slightly to around October which is good news! I'll keep you up to date on this as things change.

Just had 'my lexus' app update this afternoon along with an email saying "follow our progress", so it looks like the build of my nx350h takumi could be imminent. Does anyone know how long it takes to start build once the app updates like in the image attached?

Gordon Bennet

Hi Lex. I clicked on that screen shot image and enlarged it but it became illegible but just tried again and clear as day. Not the best page to screen shot. With you having the C1336. Just what warning lights are showing on your dash? C1336 is quite a broad reading. Includes accelerator sensor, ABS issue, steering yaw fault etc. You've done the health check scan using techstream but did you click on the engine looking symbol bottom right of the screen? That symbol clears codes. You may have to do it twice because that C1210 code is a swine to clear.

Understandable. Hence the title of the thread. 😉

When never having been in an IS how would I know?

Please report back that you have a new tyre on.

Thanks for all the replies received to date. Much appreciated. I'll take the car to my local tyre fitter in the morning and report back.

Yes you can and someone on here did a write-up when they did theirs but I can't remember who did it. Try using the (awful) search facility on the forum and good luck.

Sadly with the upsurge in Lexus cars being stolen, i have decided its just not worth the worry or grief of owning one. I will be Part exchanging my 7 week old ES for something less desirable to thieves. Its a shame that Lexus dont seem to be taking that much interest in the problem. Lets hope not too many people are put off buying their cars over this .

This is why RX premiums have jumped up! This is the first time a Lexus car has been on the 'stolen/recovered' list but to enter at No.6 is very worrying!

Yeh I think owing to the size of the site this year, there was a lot of that going on, everyone moving around in circles missing each other. Thanks for the pic, the RCF got quite a lot of interest parked next to that burger stand 🙂

@BillNick same here, I walked by your stand a couple times and didnt see you, we must of been walking at opposite ends to each other all day lmao. We were very lucky with the weather and the track time was really good

Ask them to leave a bit on - free racing stripes!

Yes... that is why when I was ordering my ID BOX I made sure to find one with 2 keys already, because I knew the replacement would be ~£600.

All I can tell you is that both codes relate to the camshaft. P0012 Intake camshaft position timing. P3190 Toyota/Lexus code - defective camshaft position sensor. Neither of these relate to EGR I think you'll need a garage.

You need a electronic engineer not an auto spark these days for cars

Kevin - it would probably go further !

This takes me back - think I'll have it at my funeral

Ok so you have calibration errors yaw sensor. You sure that happened after oil change? I can't see any relevance here - whatever they did to the car could no knock calibration out, disconnecting battery will do nothing, you need to calibrate yaw sensor. Usually something like replacement or disconnection of the sensor or ABS pump would cause it. The calibration of yaw sensor is simple, park car on even ground, go to TechStream utilities for ABS/VSC/EPS and there will be calibration option - I think it is called "reset memory". It goes something along the lines "turn IG ON, make the steering straight, press calibrate, wait 5s, turn off the ignition, wait 5 seconds, start the car". It could be done with jumper between TS (4) and CG (12) terminals, but that has a risk of damaging you OBD2 port (just connectors get's lose over time)... so I would not advise it. Same procedure as per TechStream, just instead of following on screen instruction you need to jump terminal 4 times in 8 seconds, VSC Test Mode and ABS light starts blinking, wait 5s switch off. Better do it with TechStream... Do you have repair manual... it has all instructions.

Not really a strange world - all you have to do is to accept that all insurance companies, utility companies and so on are out to bleed us until we squeak! When I first started driving in 1975 a "fully comprehensive" policy was just that; everything you needed in one easy-to-arrange package. Now, if you want X you have to pay for it; "You want Y sir? That will be an extra [sticks finger in mouth then holds it up to see wind direction] £85 sir" I don't want to meet the Grim Reaper for a while yet, but let's just say that I'm glad I'm on the last bus to his place because this world is going to Hades in a handbasket on all fronts.

Strange that Since you disconnected the battery These issues seem to have Appeared..Could it have something to do with the factory default settings i.e Computer dynamics And needs resetting at the Dealership i.e Techstream.. Just a Thought.!!!

Sorry Lex. That's a poor quality screen shot. I can't make any of it out.

Also for sale are a complete set of five refurbished alloys for a 99-05 IS200, four of which are fitted with nearly new Sumitomo BC100s. The fifth, which was the spare, has a part-worn but legal Bridgestone Potenza. All have wheel centres. In addition to the above, I also have for sale a pair of front fog lamps, which were working when removed from the vehicle. All of the above were harvested from the vehicle, after which the car was sold as scrappage in part ex for a new Toyota. The dreaded tin worm saw it off. Please email your best offers to ian.payne5850@gmail.com

I could, but don't want to.

The first radio I fitted to my A35 van was one from a pals Ford can't remember the model. It consisted of a large black box containing valves and a thick cable from said box to a tuner display unit. All rather large but worked well. Amazing what you do when you're a broke 17yr old. Recently used my tape player to listen to my late brother's tape from when he was a professional entertainer, quite a treat.

In for a penny, in for a pound. So that would rule out option 1 for me. Of the others my preference would be for 2, but only because I favour Dinitrol over Waxoyl. Alternatively, if you feel inclined, you could do it yourelf quite cheaply after cleaning up the affected areas. My approach has been: Remove wheels and arch liners and give the area a good clean, then spray inside arches and fuel/brake pipes etc with Dynax UB. Spray underside with UB, and any cavities with Dynax S50. The Dynax spray cans come with a lance for getting into cavities, and so make the job quite quick and easy. Once it's dried I then give everything a liberal spray of ACF 50 for good measure, and to get into any nooks and crannies. Finally I rub some ACF 50 Corriosion Block grease around the inner metal lip of the arches. The Dynax in the cavities and arches should be good for 2 or 3 years, but I do the underside annually, as it only takes about an hour. Even if you get it done professionally, I'd still probably give the underside a spray every year. I usually do that Sept/Oct after MOT and service, so the garage doesn't face an oily mess, and in time for winter road salting. Around April I then give the underside a good rinse with a cheap lawn sprayer on the end of a hose, to wash off any salt and winter crud.

Hi All, Hope you are doing good. From a precautionary perspective, I have decided to go along with the Dealer servicing to keep the Lexus warranty intact. It is pricey but I guess it gives one a peace of mind that if anything was to go off, one has the Warranty to fall back on to cover the mentioned parts as per the Warranty T&Cs. Thank you to both for sharing your invaluable advice & opinions... Regards Sath

As the saying goes, "Location, location, location." We live in an area of Preston called Fulwood and we're moving to a different part of Fulwood. Unfortunately, the bungalow we're buying had a burst pipe at Christmas, which the seller's insurance are dealing with, albeit slowly. Until the repairs are completed (no later than 9th June) we're temporarily living in my sister in law's second home in Carlisle. Moving from Fulwood, where the car was parked on a driveway in a quiet cul de sac, to Carlisle, where the car is just parked at the kerbside of a reasonably busy road, has seen me get a refund of £61.28 Of course, they'll probably get most of that back when we move back to Preston but how can it be cheaper to insure it where the risk of damage while parked has increased by a very substantial amount? I swear that insurance premiums are calculated on parameters such as the colour of underpants, direction of wind, yellow/black stripey socks cost more than blue/black, and the chances of finding a purple Unicorn in the Nebula Galaxy!

The facelift IS300h (late 2016 MY17 onwards) has CAN bus headlights and therefore wiring which can be intercepted at the front of the vehicle, like the series IV RX. Your 2015 model doesn't.