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Thanks guys. I am no IT expert and my grandson helped me format the usb media outside windows and as suggested, FAT32 was the answer. Inside windows the formatting defaults to exFAT32. Now enjoying everything 😁

@shapiro @binnocorp Here's one I took today. Still trying to figure out the best angle to take pictures of this beauty.

Getting key #2 on thursday ( got the NX in late oct-23) 😀

I've finally got my windscreen replaced. Everything was great. They said it would take 2.5 hours, but the guy fitted in one hour. Everything is in the right place, sensors and heating working too. I gave up fighting for an OEM one after reading your advice. So thank you guys!!!!

Covered the washer sensor subject ten years ago the doughnut gets waterlogged just remove the sensor from the bottle and place it in the airing cupboard for a few days until it is dried out then coat the doughnut with laquer this seals it and mine is still working ten years on.

Ended up buying a Skoda Superb with DCC which helps with the comfort. It's no Lexus/Toyota but it was a matter of compromise.

I can vouch for BC Racing - a quality, really well made kit. Ordered mine from ID Workz website and it arrived the next day. They offer Klarna too - that's if you don't fancy forking out £949 in one go, and splitting the bill may help you with putting the car on the road quicker: https://id-workz.co.uk/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-for-lexus-ls430-ucf30-01-06 I've watched a number of videos on these suspension swaps beforehand, and knew what needs to come out and how it's all accessed. Once the air lines are disconnected, the fronts are a straight swap, and the rears are slightly harder to access, in that the top mounts are hidden behind the rear seats and the parcel shelf. Ideally, you'd need to undo the rear seats (or get the garage to do it for a little extra), and drop the backs a bit - they can be temporarily held in place by seatbelts if needed. Then lift the rear parcel shelf slightly and voila - you'll see the mounts. This is what I did before taking the car to the shop, but if don't fancy messing around - ask them to do it. There's a video that covers the lot, including the rear seats here (rear seat removal starts at 10:50): In addition to that, I printed off the suspension diagrams from Club Lexus forum (attached), and brought with me a photo of a car that had its struts replaced - to give my mechanic an idea of where things are, and to show my desired ride height, as I wanted the car lowered whilst they are at it. My final request was to leave everything in place as much as possible, i.e. not a full demolition job, and keep the air compressor and other related bits in place. I've also asked them to ignore any lights that may come up on the dashboard as I will deal with these myself - there was only a single fuse that needed removing to stop the compressor from pumping air and if memory serves me right, it was located either in the engine bay or one of the footwell fuse boxes - easily accessible and I can check which one and where it was tomorrow for you if you like. Since that was done - no warning lights whatsoever! They charged me just over £400, and left the old air struts in the boot, so I could resell them later if I wanted to. He said it was all quite straightforward, and they only struggled with undoing one bolt on the rear strut, but considering the age of the car that was to be expected. The air lines were disconnected from original air struts and everything else has remained in situ, so I could technically have it back on air in future. These BC coilovers are fully adjustable, so you will have options to play around with for both the ride height and ride quality. I may be wrong, but pretty sure there were two settings on the top mounts - for Sport and Comfort, a little dial you can twist - I haven't looked since I've had them installed, so memory is a little foggy now 🙂 But the ride height is definitely something worth thinking about if you are having the suspension swapped anyway. The garage will be able to set it whichever way you like - and it can be adjusted to go lower or higher at a later date, the kit comes with all the tools if you are mechanically minded. Positives: 1. Car is now much more planted in corners, handling feels superb, and the body doesn't roll 2. As mentioned above - the kit is fully adjustable, the world is your lobster oyster 3. Quality - these struts feel like they will outlast the car, they are that well made The one negative: Ride quality doesn't compare to air suspension, it will be firmer. I think the only way to counter this would be to have the ride height set higher to allow the struts to work their magic with greater suspension travel. But seeing that I expected this before the swap, I am honestly not regretting it one bit, and in my opinion it's probably the best upgrade you can do to prolong the life expectancy of your LS 🙂 If there's anything that I've not covered - let me know, happy to help!

2nd Key fob received today 😀 Approx. 6 months after delivery.

After seeing a few examples of folks in the community attempting to retrofit PCS (Pre Crash System) + DRCC (Dynamic Radar Cruise Control), some successful and some not, I thought I give it a go on my 2015 IS 250 base model. After figuring out all the parts required, I started on the adventure of trying to get them. Here are all the parts that are required: Cruise Switch (84632-30020) + Wire (84633-76020) for DRCC Steering Controls (84250-53231-C0) Lexus Emblem for Radar (53141-48050) Radar (88210-53140) + Bolts (3x 90119-06782) Buzzer (86652-50010) Network Gateway ECU (89100-30221) + Bolts (2x 90159-50327) Driving Support ECU (88150-53052) + Wire (82143-24020) + Bolts (94151-80600) PCS Cancel Button (84770-50010) Engine Wire Harness with Radar Connector (82112-53340) Most parts were available in the used market, mostly eBay. Some from within the UK and some from the US. The parts that proved to be more difficult to find were the Driving Support ECU and a matching Radar. The Driving Support ECU part number that is required is 88150-53052, however from a quick Google search, the only place this part number appears are in parts catalog websites. Digging a bit deeper I first found it on sale in Vladivostok, on a Russian site called wiweb(blocked word). Here is the full link: https://www.wiweb(blocked word)/goods/elektronnyiy_blok_lexus_is250_8815053052_gse30_4gr_8815053052-198031S2997547103.html. I reached out to the seller however he wasn’t sure about how I would pay him and also how he would ship it to the UK with the current restrictions in place. After looking at the parts catalog, I found two other part numbers, one for an older part (88150-53051) used in a previous production batch (2013/06 - 2014/07), and one for a newer part (88150-53053) used in a later production batch (2015/08 - 2016/10). My vehicle was produced 2014/11 and the part I am looking for is from the 2014/07 - 2015/08 production batch. I thought I start looking for these parts in the hope of widening my chances, keeping in mind that these might not actually work in the end. I ended up finding these in Japan, on Yahoo auctions, and bought them through ZenMarket since Yahoo auctions is not available outside of Japan. At first, I found the newer part (88150-53053), and ordered it. As I waited for the Driving Support ECU, I managed to get the rest of the parts. I fit the Network Gateway ECU, swapped the steering controls, changed the engine wire harness to the one with the radar connector, the radar itself, swapped the emblem in front of the radar, and finally fit both the PCS cancel button and buzzer. The only thing now remaining was the Driving Support ECU. It’s worth mentioning that the new cruise switch, even though it’s the one for using with radar, works with standard cruise control. Once the Driving Support ECU arrived, I plugged it in and hit my first issue. I got the following DTC: C1A0A - Front Radar Sensor Region Code Mismatch. Using Techstream, I found that the Radar had the country code set to NA (for North America) and the Driving Support ECU had the country code set to JPN (for Japan). This made sense since the Radar came from the US and the ECU from Japan, so then I ordered a Radar from Japan, again through ZenMarket. After I got the Radar from Japan and replaced the US one, through Techstream, I used the initialisation utility on the Network Gateway ECU. After clearing all the previous DTC’s, started up everything and no errors. I can now see a cruise control tab in my instrument cluster and when using the cruise switch and the distance switch on the steering, everything seems to react accordingly. When turning on the cruise switch, I can also see “Radar Ready” in the instrument cluster. I went for a test drive, got the car to around 35 MPH and set the speed. For around 1 second, I see the set cruise speed in the cruise control tab but then get an error: “Check Cruise Control System”. Using Techstream, I get the following DTC: C1A52 - Driving Support ECU Communication Abnormal. I will try to record the exact behaviour and post a video soon. My first conclusion was that maybe since it’s a newer ECU, it’s not fully compatible with the rest of the system. After resetting all the ECU (by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for around 5 minutes) and trying again, I get the same DTC. Currently I have few theories, but no way to test them: Even though there is no region mismatch error being shown in Techstream, since all the other ECU’s, mainly the ECM and the multiplex ECU, in my car would be set to EU (Europe) I suspect that might still be problematic. This is hard to correct, since I can probably never get a Driving Support ECU with the correct part number and region. Since the ECU I tried is newer than the one needed and doesn’t match the exact part number, I thought I give the older ECU a try, this was in the market at the time on ZenMarket, so I went ahead and purchased it. Unfortunately that also leads to the same DTC. Other examples from the community: 2011 GX 460 - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-2nd-gen-2010-2023/921818-retrofit-oem-radar-cruise.html 2015 GS 350 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-4th-gen-2013-2020/883922-pre-collision-system-retrofit.html 2008 GS 450h https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/131146-lexus-gs-450h-sport-radar-cruise-control-retrofit/ If anyone has any ideas or thoughts about how to go forward, feel free to respond to this thread. DTC C1A52.pdf DTC C1A0A.pdf

Agreed, but that charge still applies to a percentage of us sold vehicles depending on factory capacity vs actual North American sales, doesn't it?

Probably a large labour charge to diagnose the issue and charge to fit the new one given the manufacturer is paying.

I finally got my battery changed... again One day I just stopped by to see somebody and then the car wouldn't start. It didn't accept the jump starter either... I couldn't even lock it...I was so angry...I just left it open and left. My sister in law came after 5 hours and I started the engine with the cables. Next day I took it to Lexus ...they tested it again, kept it over the night and the following morning they saw the battery was drained, so they replaced it. Now everything is back to normal 😉 What is strange, when I replaced it in 2022 I paid only £150, now it was under warranty, but it was estimated on my bill at £300 🤔 Thank you guys for your advice! 🤗

So nice. Congratulations! 👍

Lovely original looking example 😎😎

Not for sale but a few of you have asked to see some photos of the ‘new to me’ SC.

Just come across this thread. Had my LS600hL 5 months now and this exact ‘issue’ has been worrying me too. My rear end does appear to be lower down than the front - the gap between top of tyre and wheel arch on the front is larger than the gap between top of tyre and wheel arch on the rear. But i know my air suspension and self levelling and height high functions are working ok, and the rear doesnt sink low after turning the car off. Its good to hear that i wasnt the only one worrying and even better to find this thread which confirms its perfectly normal and there is no ‘issue’! now i just need to fix my drivers door wind noise and the find out what the knocking coming from my front left suspension is 😣

I use a tomtom for my trips out ,low on screen right hand side .

It’s incredible that an otherwise competent garage workshop hasn’t the nouse, or simply can’t be bothered, to do a relatively simple job ……. that the Lexus Main Dealer workshop guys would maybe do, albeit at perhaps 3 or 4 times the cost of a local garage here in a more populated area of the UK Caithness garages holding the population to ransom maybe ……. it’s not good 😰 Good luck David getting this sensibly sorted by a local competent willing garage Malc

Sat nav upgraded to 2024 spec.

My local garage were also adamant that the job is far too complicated and mentioned that they were stung by their only other air suspension swap on a Mercedes Benz van of some sort, where the entire dash lit up full of warning lights after the job and they couldn't fix it 😅 So I asked around and found another local garage (a VW / Audi / Seat specialist of all people!) who also happens to do lots of these suspension jobs and he accepted right away! Are there any tuning garages local to you? May be worth checking with them, as I almost guarantee they would have done some suspension work previously and these kinds of places are far more likely to take on the job. As for the air lines - they are simply disconnected or snipped from air struts themselves, there's nothing more to it if you are keeping the rest of the air suspension parts in place, here's a screenshot from a video LS430 VIP made:

I don’t know about Lexus’ older models but I believe the windscreen and side windows have a hydrophobic coating which might be negatively affected by the use of potent glass cleaning products.

Nice one Phil, I may coat the new doughnut with lacquer before I fit it. I'll follow your method on the one I take out and then I'll have a spare or sell it. iirc a new one in the UK is around £100 I think, £30 from Amayama and I ordered it along with other bits like the door check assembly and some clips. I wish I'd noticed the door check bracket cover missing though, I've ordered a new one from Lexus Bolton.

I agree, they must've cleaned it with sandpaper and toothpaste and finished it off with a wire brush. For now i'll live with it as my initial idea was to change the 7" screen with the 10.3".

I think that is the best bit of advice to anyone, especially if they are new to Hybrids although the OP is already in the ‘family’ 🙂

I’d sell the car with the stock wheels. Anything else would require (in theory) a modification to be disclosed to insurers, and premium possibly going up - so putting people off. I had a set of OEM winter wheels & tyres for my previous Volvo - they sold for peanuts after several months. Thankfully I’d originally got a bargain from a dealership for them (basically the price of tyres) so didn’t feel too hard done by!

The Premium Edition had been kept artificially low for more than two years , presumably to stay below the £40k luxury VED ceiling as long as possible - while nearly every other Lexus model has seen jumps of £4-5k, the ES Premium Edition only moved from £39.3k (plus cost of metallic paint) to £40k (with free paint!). The other ES trims kept increasing in line with other Lexus models - e.g. ES Takumi has gone from £52k to £57k in two years. Sadly it seems Lexus UK has decided that’s no longer possible to maintain. So a large jump, yes, but really just catching up to where it should have been if not artificially kept low.

When I had my Prius my commute was only a total of 6 urban miles a day and I never had any issues with the 12v battery. I too had keyless entry and I just used the car as I wanted to without any thought about things draining the battery. I sold the car a couple of weeks ago and it still had the original battery from new at seven years old The only time I would take precautions was going on holiday and then would connect my smart charger and have it come on twice a week for 8 hours at a time which worked perfectly for me. it seems odd that some people have issues and others do not 🤔

Hi Ian, if I were you I'd be looking to sell the car with the 18" set fitted - more appropriate than the smaller wheels in my book - and offer the 17" winter set as an optional extra. Then, as Colin suggests, it's not the best time of year to sell a winter set of tyres anyway so if they're not wanted you can keep them and hopefully get a decent/better price in the Autumn. Good Luck.

Oh and here she is - sitting low and pretty after the swap:

Welcome to the forum. I don’t see why the LBX would be any different to the Yaris. Possibly worse as there may be more features draining the battery e.g keyless entry. All cars will suffer from battery drain if not used for long periods. How often do you drive and how far?

I converted from air to factory spec conventional springs and shock absorbers. Replacing just one air strut would have cost more than the value of the car. There was also the possibility of other air components failing in the future. I used a mix of Toyota and KYB parts so that my insurers did not view it as a modification. I am happy with the ride; it is much more comfortable than my SC430 and my wife's RX300. The new parts will probably last the life of the car.

A handy place to know by the sounds of it & thanks again for the info 👍🏻

So I did the full reset and finally things seem to be talking again. I had to do a couple of re-registrations with the app before the car finally started greeting me by name again, not requiring me to accept the terms each time and remembering preferences for driver assist and the meter layout. It seems that things like radio presets didn't get automatically restored and there is a gap in journeys shown in the app between applying the software update and finally getting communications restored. Also a couple of journeys today haven't shown up yet (the last 2 are there, but 2 before that are missing, several others today are then there).

Hi Tom, I believe that this section of the RX manual will explain the circumstances where the EV mode is overridden. There is a point in the list about cooling the battery; were you setting off immediately after charging the car? Cheers, Kev

Another mystery 😀 I can have a full tank of petrol, drive about 50 miles mainly using the engine, and still have 100% fuel showing on the app 🙈

Not that we are aware of.

Best to sell the winter wheels/tyres separately although it isn’t the best time of year to be doing so.

With some help from this thread and EEPROM programming I was able to add DRCC and PCS to my 2014 US spec. IS350 AWD. What finally worked was pulling the Driving Support ECU & Engine Control Module and virginizing them, which caused the car to think it has a new ECM. Process to get the DSU to allow Radar Cruise (disconnect battery before uninstalling DSU/ECU): 1. Backup ECM and DSU EEPROMs before doing anything. See these photos of the modules: https://imgur.com/a/jU8Jtjv 2. Write the semi-virgin data to the DSU EEPROM. (93LC66 16 bit) See this original and semi-virgin example data for writing. Don't delete the Region information or Part number information. Blank out the information like the example. (Different years and models may look nothing like this). (I'm not 100% sure if this whole step needed) 3. Write all 00's to the Engine Control Module EEPROM (93LC86 16bit) 4. Reinstall virginized ECM and DSU 5. Reconnect Battery. Initiate Immobilizer/ECM learn routine. (Jump Pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2/DLC, Ignition on for 30 minute, then off and start the car 6. Write VIN using Techstream to Engine Control Module (It will show a VIN not programmed DTC). Mine still shows the DTC after writing the VIN, but the check engine light is now off. I'm guess it will disappear eventually) 7. Test DRCC. All seemed to be working well matched leading vehicle speed and braking worked well. No DTC's after 30 min of driving. Radar aiming will likely be necessary to ensure it's properly tracking vehicles in front of you. DRCC should look like this one the instrument cluster: https://imgur.com/a/InCNkBt Notes: Be cautious with the ECM modification, there's always a chance of causing the car not to start if something goes wrong. EEPROM Tools and Guides I used: CH341A EEPROM Programmer I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details CH431A EEPROM Programmer modifications needed to support 93LCXX EEPROMSs: YouTube Instructions EEPROM editing software I used: AsProgrammer_v2.1.0.13 (Windows driver included in the driver install folder): https://mega.nz/#!VMR0QQhL!wU4fYzCqjtHfXbD_tyOCRVnd3ahGgjprG_8RnVJ7N3o Other good things to watch would be this YouTube video also showing modification of the programmer to work on 93LCXX EEPROMs used in Toyotas. The ECM and DSU both have a protective coating sprayed on the boards, so you may need to gently scrape the pins of the EEPROM for good contact with the programmer. Please keep in mind that I'm not an engineer or an expert, just a hobbyist that enjoys working on cars. These modifications can have expensive/safety repercussions if something goes wrong.

Hi @zoricib, I'm sorry to hear that you lost the small ring. But it's good you managed to sort it out. Regarding the replacement - I found only used ones on alixpress and ebay.

Correct, why the LS400 didn’t suffer the same issue is open for debate. I have never owned a LS430 so can’t comment on why LS430’s suffered from it. Maybe it’s down to the make/type of radiator or where the connections to the radiator are located.

So the trans fluid setup is exactly the same as the LS430 - but the LS400 never suffered from the problem the LS430 does.

Our NX screen coating was gradually damaged when the car was valeted (I no longer let anyone else clean the interior of our cars other then the dealer vacuum at servicing). By the time I realised it was happening it was too late (it started lifting at the edges). The anti glare is very susceptible to common interior car cleaning materials. I believe there was an admitted fault on some IS screens but that may have only been in the USA. When it happened on our NX I complained and got nowhere. So I just went to the valeter, asked what he used, bought some myself and used that on a micro fibre cloth to remove the rest of the coating. Took a while but it all came off. And once it was completely removed I could not notice a difference between when the coating was undamaged versus completely removed. As long as the underlying screen surface is not damaged you should be ok. IIRC the product was Frogchem silicone gloss. Hope that helps. Cheers, Paul

You will probably have an MM17 version of the multimedia system in that vehicle which should be able to do at least a 128GB stick when formatted fat32. As Adrian says, check it really is FAT32 - modern versions of windows won't format fat32 natively and you need a third party application to make a fat32 filesystem on large sticks. There are also restrictions to number of directories and max file limit but I would guess unless you have 10s of GB of music loaded already you won't be anywhere near that. Paul

Oil and filter - done Fit new drivers door check assembly - done with new pin. Door card and speaker removed to do the job. Plastic at the body end was broken, pin was cut down so someone has been there before. The inner core is metal so door wouldn’t fly away. Washer level sensor started working again so left that for another time, truth is I forgot to do it when the wheel was off to check the suspension😀 Check all front suspension - done. Can’t find anything loose or worn. The biggy and most important...........................check if the transmission fluid cooler is built into the radiator or is separate and take pictures - done. Trans fluid cooler is built into the radiator. Pic below, sorry about the rusty bits with paint coming off. This will be rectified as soon as possible.

Good afternoon Craig. I have an LS460 which also suffers with the wind noise around the window area. I didn't bother with the Jim Craney fix. I discovered that if I just hit the window down switch for a fraction of a second so it lowers the window about 1/32" the wind noise disappears. I have done this since I bought the car 3 1/2 years ago and no rain or other water, including from my pressure washer, has ever got into the car. Give it a go and let us know how you get on. Regards. Steve.

I have a phase 4 facelift GS450h Premier, and previously had a pre-face lift GS450h Premier. The premier and f sport GS450h have larger front disc brakes and 17” wheels will not fit. I am unsure about the GS300h. The Newer car has 19” wheels, the ride is OK, but the tyres and wheels are more likely to be damaged by kerbs and bumps I think. The facelift drives and rides better than the previous model. I would get the facelift if you can. My notes are below: I have listed the differences between the pre and post face-lift premier cars. Face lift has the Lexus Safety System + LSS+ - Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) - Pre-Crash Safety system (PCS) - Lane Keep Assist (LKA) - Sway Warning - Traffic Signal Recognition (TSR) - Automatic High Beam system Facelift has Blind spot BSM and rear cross traffic alert RCTA, Pre-face-lift only has Blind spot indicator. Head-up display. This became available in around 2015 in the GS as I think an optional extra. It is standard in the facelift. Headlights. Facelift has 3 Eye LED headlamps with AHS (Adaptive High-beam System) Pre face lift has headlights that point toward direction of steering, but do not blank out light to other road users on full beam. Interior. Facelift analogue clock is automatically set by GPS or similar which is handy whereas pre-facelift car is manually set. Main display is split screen so two different items may be displayed, Sat Nav is updated, though there appears to be no speed limit display or recognition on the sat nav that I can find. Steering wheel display is much more comprehensive, the LSS+ features can be set here. Heated steering wheel with wood rim in facelift, compared with full leather no heating in older car. Display controls in front of armrest are more comprehensive and better. Rear camera picture quality is markedly improved in facelift. Seat patterns are slightly different but the seats feel and adjust the same. In the facelift I have set the seat heating so it come on when the car starts and stays on at 3 bars, features I could not do in previous car. Driving; comparing a 25k newer car with a 80k older car. The steering on the facelift is much more direct and not at all vague. The suspension is much better, with fewer crashes in potholes and none of the very slight swaying in older car. I would have thought the engine and transmission are pretty much identical, and the consumption figures so far a very similar (about 40mpg in summer.) Drive mode for facelift includes the ‘customise’ setting where you can specify desired throttle response, suspension and eco/normal aircon settings. I was worried that the ride would be harsh on the 19” wheels compared to the older car’s 18” wheels, but it is fine. Overall the facelift is a better car due to the improved steering, suspension, LSS+ features and displays.

My car is 2012 Premier with 18' wheels (it's 450H but I don't think this will make a difference) and if I had to rate how smooth the suspension is I would give it 6/10. My dad's 22 year-old E-Class with 16" rides much much smoother, but I will still get the GS because I enjoy the balance between comfort and firmness. I haven't driven a facelifted car with 17's. The ride should be slightly better but still won't be comparable to the LS. The thing with all new cars is that they are trying too hard to be sporty because big wheels and aggressive bumpers sell more cars. It would be great if you could share your thoughts once you drive a car with 17" wheels.

I managed to get in touch with the CT200H owner, looks like that was a successful project. With regards to my status, it seems like the PCS side of things are working. Yesterday I was surprised with the "BRAKE!" warning when I came a little close to someone at the lights. So the issue seems limited to the DRCC part.