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Right result the number plate makes my money back I’m putting it away for a couple Of years. As I have 2 more ls400 one I’m useing that’s got LPG on it and one I’m Breaking I’m putting the Engine in my much love is200 once engine in Iv got two turbos to put on. I’m after a supercharger For it as well I no they make one for it in the states About £600 plus post cost so I’m looking in to that. I’m going to do a video on the build That I will post on here I’m looking at about 8 months hopefully So Watch this Space. JASON

Purchase just purchased now thanks Herbs, hope the software don't come in CD format... 🙂 I will also purchase a new 12v battery to test. Any recommendation? The IS300 battery is just way too big to fit into RX to test for overnight drainage.

Yes 5 mouths mot

Hi Guys, I wanted to introduce myself, I am Sam from Coventry and an owner of a recently acquired dark blue 2007 LS460 SE-L with an alabaster leather interior. I first spotted the car advertised a lot cheaper than others which of course, piqued my interest! advertised at somewhat of a bargain price and definately sold as seen I knew this could be a potential dog. I had a look at the MOT history which seemed quite good with no major faults or failures and then decided to look into the Lexus dealer service history. The car had been serviced regularly with Lexus until the end of 2016 however had since really piled on the miles without any available history to date and a current mileage of 124K miles. Despite this grey recent history I thought I would take a punt! So, the car body work was good with all panel gaps even and everything lined up. I could see that the passenger side front wing was dull with a lot of fine scratches looking as though it may have seen some paint in the recent past but everything lined up well and evenley. The alloy wheels were heavily corroded (common on Lexus I am told?) but the tyres were recent and of a good brand. Next the interior which was in good shape all apart from the driver's seat but still acceptable condition. Everything inside the car was in working order with the only item needing replacement being a scratched Sat Nav DVD. Next was the drive and the car did not miss a beat. Smooth and quick without any harshness/knocks with suspension or with the drive. The audible wind noise I believe is from the trim located just ahead of the wing mirrors which I will be removing and attempting to fix. The other thing I noticed was a clicking noise when feathering the brake pedal and a scoring noise at low speed when the windows were down. I realised worst case scenario it would be the brake actuator on the way out and had to have a think. The condition, drive and cost of the car meant for an acceptable risk to take - I hope that will be true further down the line! So, I became the proud new owner of a LS, a car I had coveted for so many years. The first things I have done (and currently being done) is a full 60K service (Spark plug service Inc) and waterpump with Lincoln based firm Toyotek. They have been changing the Diff, gearbox and brake fluids too as well as pollen filter and A/C gas for me too. They have come across one bodge job issue which was a pipe going to the radiator had been glued in place?! They have decided that a new radiator (£318+VAT) and pipe are needed and I have agreed as that is not something I would want to take any risks on blowing! They also advised that the brake disc have a slight lip and the brake pads are in good order. So, for the moment (he says,lol) things aren't too bad.. I have owned Bmws and Mercedes previously and wish I could say the same about them! Thanks for taking the time to read my introduction and I will keep you updated with any highs and lows of being a LS owner! Sam

Umm children in a Lexus are you mad

Cant help you with your mirror but i did cure my wind noise. Mine was caused by a trim clip missing from the outer windscreen pillar trim. I replaced the clip and the trim fitted snugly against the screen. No more noise.

Assuming that the DC/DC converter is working alright and you do get about 14.4 - 14.7V when the car is in the READY state, you'll then have to start looking for the source of the parasitic drain. The car needs to be in 'sleep mode' for any chance of tracing the fault. This means that you may need to wait for a couple of hours after switching off the ignition and removing the key (and keep the key out of wireless range too). If the doors have pin switches to operate the internal lights you'll need to put a piece of tape over them so that the ECU thinks the doors are shut and the lights don't come on. Once the car is in sleep mode, a normal quiescent current draw will be about 0.035mA or 35-milliamps. This is to keep the settings of such things as the radio presets, seat memory, alarm, GPS and maybe even more things too. If you find that the current draw is slightly higher, say 0.040mA that may be acceptable for the amount of stuff that needs to be kept alive - maybe Lexus publish figures of what's 'normal' for the car, I don't know? If, on the other hand, the draw is something like 0.080mA or 0.100mA then something is definitely wrong. As an example, if the car has a 50Ah battery and a draw of 0.085mA, it would go from fully charged to fully discharged in about three weeks (if my maths are correct ). It used to be acceptable to disconnect the negative battery clamp and wire an ammeter in series, then measure the draw and pull and replace each fuse in turn until the value dropped and that would be your faulty circuit, but there's a better way to do it now because disconnecting the battery could reset the ECUs and make the very fault that you're chasing, disappear. The preferred method now is to switch your multimeter to a millivolt scale (I know that we've been talking Amps up to now but for this you definitely need it on millivolts) and simply put the test probes across each fuse in turn because you're looking for the voltage drop across the fuse. In very general terms, the higher the voltage drop the more current is flowing, so the highest reading should be your faulty circuit. For a more accurate result you can refer to these charts here. Once you have a circuit that's giving a high reading you can pull that fuse and confirm the actual current draw by switching your meter to the Amps scale and placing the probes into the fuse socket. There's quite a few good videos on Youtube that demonstrate better than I can describe in words, so just search for videos on 'finding parasitic draws' if you want to.

I think the word ‘Lexis’ was not used because this was already in use by a firm of legal publishers, Butterworths, for their electronic database of legal materials. As far as I know, this was why it was changed to Lexus.

See, now, nothing ever goes right when one is rushing... Now I've sat down, gathered my thoughts (consulted with the handbook !) and this is what I was trying to say. On the key fob, press unlock twice while pressing and holding lock. Confirm that the electronic key indicator flashes 4 times. This will disable that fob from operating the keyless entry system. Remember to do this with the spare key also.

Rather than a new battery just for testing purposes, why not get a jump start battery pack like this one instead? If the battery is faulty it'll be covered by warranty given that it's only a year old so your money is probably better spent in getting one of these. The 12V batteries in hybrids are small and don't have much capacity so it's not exactly common, but not unheard of either, for people to come back to a flat battery after a two-week holiday and the car has been stood in the airport car park doing nothing. These little units are brilliant and work really well. Small enough to sit in the glove box, it's always handy if it's ever needed. It also stops you from looking like an unhelpful scrote if anyone asks you to provide a jump start for them rather than refusing (because you should never use a hybrid to provide a jump start).

Thanks Piers for reply, I did keep doors open for like 2 hours with both interior lights to wet/vac the driver side carpet and puling out the driver side plastic skirt to clear the mud/leaves blocking the drain. After this work, the remote alarm was back on to lock doors so I know there is enough power from the 12v battery at that point. Also the interior lights went off when I keyfob locked the car

No more or less secure than any other marques. One can easily disable the fob by a double press of the lock button. This prevents the fob from transmitting.

I video of all this work would be awesome :)

Possibly, I'm not sure. One thing I do know is that some OBD2 codes are manufacturer-specific so a generic reader is very unlikely to be able to read anything to do with Toyota/Lexus hybrid systems. If you've got a laptop then the best thing is to get a miniVCI cable from eBay, as it will come with a copy of Techstream which is the diagnostic software used in the main dealer workshops. Of course, it will be a pirated copy so it's up to your own conscience as to whether you use it or not. You can officially and freely download the software from Lexus and then pay for a block of time to use it, but either way you'll need that miniVCI cable anyway. This is the one I got and I can confirm that it works well.

thanks will do I will check tomorrow once battery is back to 12.7V in READY state. However if issue with inverter/converter should I not get a check engine light so I can scan with odb2 scanner? Current no check engine light, but I can run Torque pro scan next time when 12v battery is ready again.

Thanks Piers for reply, door light not on. I have car camera plugged in 12v socket, but my understanding is power is cut to the 12v socket when car is off. 12v battery is charging again. I will try remove all accessories to re-test. Other mod is Grom audio connected to the stereo, assuming no short circuit from Grom?

Good suggestions from Piers above but you also need to check battery voltage when the car is in READY. As you may know, our hybrids don't have a traditional alternator and the 12V battery is charged from the hybrid (traction) battery via a DC/DC converter, so having the car in READY is our equivalent of the engine running and the alternator spinning. You should get around 14.4 - 14.7. If not, then there's something wrong with the inverter/converter.

Would charger be taking any power without key being in? (I though they should be all off when car is off).

Pick this LS 400 up for £400 last weekend it has 175000 miles 4 owners From new has private numberplate That I had valued At £750 the car is mint there’s no rush no where. So Iv now squirrelled it away frozen in time I should of taken better pictures of car I will take better pictures at sum point just thought I’d share my good luck with you all..

That's a lot of Car for the money. Well done. If it has a current MOT then even better. If not, well that depends on what needs doing to it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2008,gs450h,3.5l+v6+electric/gas,1441480,steering,tie+rod+end,7428 I've only paid the price at checkout, without any further charges in the UK. Unlike when ordering parts from Japan.

Brighton is only a few miles from me so I called in to see the guy who was doing this conversion, Jon is his name. He did the work himself, and none of it looked over complicated. The coilovers were adjustable and when he got the height correct he was very happy with the result.

As mentioned there is Rock Auto and Amayama but be prepared to pay for overseas postage and import duties, you could also try Lexus Spares Direct who supply to club members at a discount and are UK based. Here is a selection on Fleabay but with critical components like steering and suspension I would go OEM personally. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=LEXUS+gs450H+LOWER+BALL+JOINT&_sacat=0 Lexus part numbers are 43340-39505 for left hand side and 43330-39625 for right side plus you will need the nuts and split pins working out at around £90.00 a side retail.

Yes the part in your picture above fits onto the Lower ball Joint shown in my picture. The hole in the arm fits onto the ball joints circled in blue dots, then secured with the nut and split pin.

Washed, polished, hoovered, valeted and I'm pleased with the result. Body and black trim are very good, full unused tool kit and engine covers armor all'ed and all plastic fasteners renewed as they were all broken and loose. 100,000 miles, 12 stamps in the book, 4 x nearly new same make tyres and discs and pads. I rang the garage who last stamped the service book for any additional info and it transpires that the mechanic owned the car for 18 months, looked after it and serviced it and said there's nowt wrong with it and everything on it worked and I've got a great car there. He said he only sold it as he and wife his down sized to a bungalow and didn't have the room for their cars so put it in to Honda and bought a smaller car. Peace of mind and I was more than pleased when I heard that. I haven't used it yet so will keep you posted on it's progress.

It is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than it is for a driver to fall out of love with one`s Lexus Mark ! Welcome home.

Done nearly 1000 miles over the last 5 days - including some very “spirited” driving in the highlands. Must admit impressed with the performance of the EBC reds, now they’re well and truly bedded in, bite is much better than the std pads and dusting seems to be less. And no squealing. Had a cracking drive today, from Dornach via Bonar Bridge to Kylesku. Spot of lunch at the Kylesku Hotel - very good very fresh seafood, then headed north up the coast and back over the tops via Loch Shin and Lairg back to Dornach. Some absolutely amazing roads and stunning, take your breath away scenery. Class.

Hi Malc, Thanks for the kind welcome. The oil & water mixing would be a disaster! The gearbox has run very smoothly since getting the car but I wanted to change the gearbox oil and other fluids as I didn't have any evidence of this being done previously. Hopefully, I have caught this car before serious neglect begins to take its toll on her. Sam

That colour is superb in the sunlight good choice.

With the LS you want to be checking the suspension side of things as most I looked at were pending MoT failures needing work done (the one I bought needed some parts replacing). From the top of my head for the LS460: See if it's had a radiator replacement as I believe that can be a weak point Check for service history to ensure it's been looked after, ie oil changes & ATF changes etc Check the adaptive cruise control works - my radar sensor failed after a few weeks while in for a service and it cost over £2k to fix (that was after haggling down - initially the quote was over £5k!) If possible try and get an extended test drive as TPMS issues won't show for a minimum of 15 minutes (it may be even higher than that) - in my case the spare had been removed so I had to buy another spare and code the new sensor in. There's a video on Youtube showing how to access a hidden menu with error codes on the Mark Levinson system - luckily the only errors on mine were when unreadable disks were inserted but there have been reports of owners with faulty ML systems. May be this one If possible try and connect with Techstream or an Intelligent Tester 2 to read any active codes and see a list of faults the car may not be reporting on the dash Check the Nav and ensure it's functioning - newer disks are quite cheap on eBay. Check the HID lights are working ok - I usually replace the bulbs in mine anyway but there's a chance on an older car they've dimmed or have failed and will be flashing etc. There's probably plenty more but that's the first things I can think of!

Bridgestone Blizzak LM80 were fitted to my RX450h which got px for new NX300h Sport. 2 have around 6mm tread and 2 have around 5mm tread, see pics. Any inspection welcome, they have no repairs or damage. Fantastic in snow got me up a cobbled 1in5 hill last winter that a 13plate Range Rover was stuck on ! £250.00 will del within 50 mile radius of Bradford West Yorkshire. Next day courier also available email andy.gillett1964@gmail.com or post message through here

I sourced the tuning valve from local lexus dealer. One electrical connector, vacumn pipe and screw hold it on. That's the easy bit. You need to remove inlet manifold. Drain coolant, remove throttle body then manifold. Tricky and it took me best part of the day. I renewed inlet gaskets too. Would not like to see labour bill that lexus would charge.

hi mark, from what i can figure there is only one in the middle of the inlet manifold.. a line of what look like throttle flaps built into the bottom half of the manifold... the valve i got was a vacumn actuator which has now been misplaced by my wife or kids.... i think its safe to say its gone (€100 down the drain... tip keep stuff out of reach of spouse and kids). to change its a monifold off job... but the fact its intermittant leads me to think its electrical... how would the engine ecu pick up a vac fault (no electronics on the valve i had).trying to figure out what controls this system and if i find out ill let you know.... at the moment i just stick in the code reader and delete the fault as it appears..... look up a site www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com...look up fuel, exhaust and emissions catagory...good diagrams off this system....