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  1. Thanks guys. I am no IT expert and my grandson helped me format the usb media outside windows and as suggested, FAT32 was the answer. Inside windows the formatting defaults to exFAT32. Now enjoying everything 😁
    4 points
  2. @shapiro @binnocorp Here's one I took today. Still trying to figure out the best angle to take pictures of this beauty.
    3 points
  3. Getting key #2 on thursday ( got the NX in late oct-23) 😀
    3 points
  4. I've finally got my windscreen replaced. Everything was great. They said it would take 2.5 hours, but the guy fitted in one hour. Everything is in the right place, sensors and heating working too. I gave up fighting for an OEM one after reading your advice. So thank you guys!!!!
    2 points
  5. Covered the washer sensor subject ten years ago the doughnut gets waterlogged just remove the sensor from the bottle and place it in the airing cupboard for a few days until it is dried out then coat the doughnut with laquer this seals it and mine is still working ten years on.
    2 points
  6. Ended up buying a Skoda Superb with DCC which helps with the comfort. It's no Lexus/Toyota but it was a matter of compromise.
    2 points
  7. I can vouch for BC Racing - a quality, really well made kit. Ordered mine from ID Workz website and it arrived the next day. They offer Klarna too - that's if you don't fancy forking out £949 in one go, and splitting the bill may help you with putting the car on the road quicker: https://id-workz.co.uk/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-for-lexus-ls430-ucf30-01-06 I've watched a number of videos on these suspension swaps beforehand, and knew what needs to come out and how it's all accessed. Once the air lines are disconnected, the fronts are a straight swap, and the rears are slightly harder to access, in that the top mounts are hidden behind the rear seats and the parcel shelf. Ideally, you'd need to undo the rear seats (or get the garage to do it for a little extra), and drop the backs a bit - they can be temporarily held in place by seatbelts if needed. Then lift the rear parcel shelf slightly and voila - you'll see the mounts. This is what I did before taking the car to the shop, but if don't fancy messing around - ask them to do it. There's a video that covers the lot, including the rear seats here (rear seat removal starts at 10:50): In addition to that, I printed off the suspension diagrams from Club Lexus forum (attached), and brought with me a photo of a car that had its struts replaced - to give my mechanic an idea of where things are, and to show my desired ride height, as I wanted the car lowered whilst they are at it. My final request was to leave everything in place as much as possible, i.e. not a full demolition job, and keep the air compressor and other related bits in place. I've also asked them to ignore any lights that may come up on the dashboard as I will deal with these myself - there was only a single fuse that needed removing to stop the compressor from pumping air and if memory serves me right, it was located either in the engine bay or one of the footwell fuse boxes - easily accessible and I can check which one and where it was tomorrow for you if you like. Since that was done - no warning lights whatsoever! They charged me just over £400, and left the old air struts in the boot, so I could resell them later if I wanted to. He said it was all quite straightforward, and they only struggled with undoing one bolt on the rear strut, but considering the age of the car that was to be expected. The air lines were disconnected from original air struts and everything else has remained in situ, so I could technically have it back on air in future. These BC coilovers are fully adjustable, so you will have options to play around with for both the ride height and ride quality. I may be wrong, but pretty sure there were two settings on the top mounts - for Sport and Comfort, a little dial you can twist - I haven't looked since I've had them installed, so memory is a little foggy now 🙂 But the ride height is definitely something worth thinking about if you are having the suspension swapped anyway. The garage will be able to set it whichever way you like - and it can be adjusted to go lower or higher at a later date, the kit comes with all the tools if you are mechanically minded. Positives: 1. Car is now much more planted in corners, handling feels superb, and the body doesn't roll 2. As mentioned above - the kit is fully adjustable, the world is your lobster oyster 3. Quality - these struts feel like they will outlast the car, they are that well made The one negative: Ride quality doesn't compare to air suspension, it will be firmer. I think the only way to counter this would be to have the ride height set higher to allow the struts to work their magic with greater suspension travel. But seeing that I expected this before the swap, I am honestly not regretting it one bit, and in my opinion it's probably the best upgrade you can do to prolong the life expectancy of your LS 🙂 If there's anything that I've not covered - let me know, happy to help!
    2 points
  8. 2nd Key fob received today 😀 Approx. 6 months after delivery.
    2 points
  9. Hi. If you have any issues with insurance for modifications at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.
    1 point
  10. Agreed, but that charge still applies to a percentage of us sold vehicles depending on factory capacity vs actual North American sales, doesn't it?
    1 point
  11. Probably a large labour charge to diagnose the issue and charge to fit the new one given the manufacturer is paying.
    1 point
  12. I finally got my battery changed... again One day I just stopped by to see somebody and then the car wouldn't start. It didn't accept the jump starter either... I couldn't even lock it...I was so angry...I just left it open and left. My sister in law came after 5 hours and I started the engine with the cables. Next day I took it to Lexus ...they tested it again, kept it over the night and the following morning they saw the battery was drained, so they replaced it. Now everything is back to normal 😉 What is strange, when I replaced it in 2022 I paid only £150, now it was under warranty, but it was estimated on my bill at £300 🤔 Thank you guys for your advice! 🤗
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. Lovely original looking example 😎😎
    1 point
  15. Not for sale but a few of you have asked to see some photos of the ‘new to me’ SC.
    1 point
  16. Just come across this thread. Had my LS600hL 5 months now and this exact ‘issue’ has been worrying me too. My rear end does appear to be lower down than the front - the gap between top of tyre and wheel arch on the front is larger than the gap between top of tyre and wheel arch on the rear. But i know my air suspension and self levelling and height high functions are working ok, and the rear doesnt sink low after turning the car off. Its good to hear that i wasnt the only one worrying and even better to find this thread which confirms its perfectly normal and there is no ‘issue’! now i just need to fix my drivers door wind noise and the find out what the knocking coming from my front left suspension is 😣
    1 point
  17. Can the car be lifted by a sling …… similar to a skip effect or maybe a builders 1tonne bag style lift …… just trying to think outside the box ! Malc
    1 point
  18. It’s incredible that an otherwise competent garage workshop hasn’t the nouse, or simply can’t be bothered, to do a relatively simple job ……. that the Lexus Main Dealer workshop guys would maybe do, albeit at perhaps 3 or 4 times the cost of a local garage here in a more populated area of the UK Caithness garages holding the population to ransom maybe ……. it’s not good 😰 Good luck David getting this sensibly sorted by a local competent willing garage Malc
    1 point
  19. So glad I took delivery of my ES premium in January. I exchanged a UX premium Plus with a sunroof which was in the Luxury VED classification for this ES model and saved £395 a year tax AND that is going up shortly according to government sources. Like this model better too.
    1 point
  20. My local garage were also adamant that the job is far too complicated and mentioned that they were stung by their only other air suspension swap on a Mercedes Benz van of some sort, where the entire dash lit up full of warning lights after the job and they couldn't fix it 😅 So I asked around and found another local garage (a VW / Audi / Seat specialist of all people!) who also happens to do lots of these suspension jobs and he accepted right away! Are there any tuning garages local to you? May be worth checking with them, as I almost guarantee they would have done some suspension work previously and these kinds of places are far more likely to take on the job. As for the air lines - they are simply disconnected or snipped from air struts themselves, there's nothing more to it if you are keeping the rest of the air suspension parts in place, here's a screenshot from a video LS430 VIP made:
    1 point
  21. I don’t know about Lexus’ older models but I believe the windscreen and side windows have a hydrophobic coating which might be negatively affected by the use of potent glass cleaning products.
    1 point
  22. Nice one Phil, I may coat the new doughnut with lacquer before I fit it. I'll follow your method on the one I take out and then I'll have a spare or sell it. iirc a new one in the UK is around £100 I think, £30 from Amayama and I ordered it along with other bits like the door check assembly and some clips. I wish I'd noticed the door check bracket cover missing though, I've ordered a new one from Lexus Bolton.
    1 point
  23. I agree, they must've cleaned it with sandpaper and toothpaste and finished it off with a wire brush. For now i'll live with it as my initial idea was to change the 7" screen with the 10.3".
    1 point
  24. I think that is the best bit of advice to anyone, especially if they are new to Hybrids although the OP is already in the ‘family’ 🙂
    1 point
  25. Have you had the Yaris checked over by Toyota? This does sound abnormal if you are only leaving the car for a few days between usage. Things to remember. Assuming the Yaris is like a Toyota/Lexus hybrid Don’t use the heated seats/steering wheel when the car is not in ready mode Don’t use Neutral Don’t use the radio when not in ready mode Don’t pre heat the car when not in ready mode In fact don’t use anything electrical when not in ready mode.
    1 point
  26. Hi Ian, if I were you I'd be looking to sell the car with the 18" set fitted - more appropriate than the smaller wheels in my book - and offer the 17" winter set as an optional extra. Then, as Colin suggests, it's not the best time of year to sell a winter set of tyres anyway so if they're not wanted you can keep them and hopefully get a decent/better price in the Autumn. Good Luck.
    1 point
  27. Oh and here she is - sitting low and pretty after the swap:
    1 point
  28. I converted from air to factory spec conventional springs and shock absorbers. Replacing just one air strut would have cost more than the value of the car. There was also the possibility of other air components failing in the future. I used a mix of Toyota and KYB parts so that my insurers did not view it as a modification. I am happy with the ride; it is much more comfortable than my SC430 and my wife's RX300. The new parts will probably last the life of the car.
    1 point
  29. So I did the full reset and finally things seem to be talking again. I had to do a couple of re-registrations with the app before the car finally started greeting me by name again, not requiring me to accept the terms each time and remembering preferences for driver assist and the meter layout. It seems that things like radio presets didn't get automatically restored and there is a gap in journeys shown in the app between applying the software update and finally getting communications restored. Also a couple of journeys today haven't shown up yet (the last 2 are there, but 2 before that are missing, several others today are then there).
    1 point
  30. I would thoroughly recommend the ghost. It won’t stop the initial damage, but your vehicle will still be where you left it, and it will give you peace of mind! The only downside is inputting a code and the short wait, but a wise investment in these times of high insurance and no police!
    1 point
  31. Hi Tom, I believe that this section of the RX manual will explain the circumstances where the EV mode is overridden. There is a point in the list about cooling the battery; were you setting off immediately after charging the car? Cheers, Kev
    1 point
  32. Anyone considering Ben's LC should watch The Car Care Nut's review on YouTube. This chap is all knowing on Lexus and Toyota cars and the review he does on a red LC500 coupe is worth a listen due to his prodigious knowledge of this car. The last local car show I went to in East Yorks saw the arrival of a red LC500 coupe with black interior and it was like everyone wanted to get close up to it, ignoring the Aston's, Bentley's, hot hatches, classics etc. All they wanted to know from the owner was his ownership experience. He was 75 years old too but felt like a 30 year old when he floored it.
    1 point
  33. Another mystery 😀 I can have a full tank of petrol, drive about 50 miles mainly using the engine, and still have 100% fuel showing on the app 🙈
    1 point
  34. Not that we are aware of.
    1 point
  35. Best to sell the winter wheels/tyres separately although it isn’t the best time of year to be doing so.
    1 point
  36. With some help from this thread and EEPROM programming I was able to add DRCC and PCS to my 2014 US spec. IS350 AWD. What finally worked was pulling the Driving Support ECU & Engine Control Module and virginizing them, which caused the car to think it has a new ECM. Process to get the DSU to allow Radar Cruise (disconnect battery before uninstalling DSU/ECU): 1. Backup ECM and DSU EEPROMs before doing anything. See these photos of the modules: https://imgur.com/a/jU8Jtjv 2. Write the semi-virgin data to the DSU EEPROM. (93LC66 16 bit) See this original and semi-virgin example data for writing. Don't delete the Region information or Part number information. Blank out the information like the example. (Different years and models may look nothing like this). (I'm not 100% sure if this whole step needed) 3. Write all 00's to the Engine Control Module EEPROM (93LC86 16bit) 4. Reinstall virginized ECM and DSU 5. Reconnect Battery. Initiate Immobilizer/ECM learn routine. (Jump Pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2/DLC, Ignition on for 30 minute, then off and start the car 6. Write VIN using Techstream to Engine Control Module (It will show a VIN not programmed DTC). Mine still shows the DTC after writing the VIN, but the check engine light is now off. I'm guess it will disappear eventually) 7. Test DRCC. All seemed to be working well matched leading vehicle speed and braking worked well. No DTC's after 30 min of driving. Radar aiming will likely be necessary to ensure it's properly tracking vehicles in front of you. DRCC should look like this one the instrument cluster: https://imgur.com/a/InCNkBt Notes: Be cautious with the ECM modification, there's always a chance of causing the car not to start if something goes wrong. EEPROM Tools and Guides I used: CH341A EEPROM Programmer I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details CH431A EEPROM Programmer modifications needed to support 93LCXX EEPROMSs: YouTube Instructions EEPROM editing software I used: AsProgrammer_v2.1.0.13 (Windows driver included in the driver install folder): https://mega.nz/#!VMR0QQhL!wU4fYzCqjtHfXbD_tyOCRVnd3ahGgjprG_8RnVJ7N3o Other good things to watch would be this YouTube video also showing modification of the programmer to work on 93LCXX EEPROMs used in Toyotas. The ECM and DSU both have a protective coating sprayed on the boards, so you may need to gently scrape the pins of the EEPROM for good contact with the programmer. Please keep in mind that I'm not an engineer or an expert, just a hobbyist that enjoys working on cars. These modifications can have expensive/safety repercussions if something goes wrong.
    1 point
  37. Hi @zoricib, I'm sorry to hear that you lost the small ring. But it's good you managed to sort it out. Regarding the replacement - I found only used ones on alixpress and ebay.
    1 point
  38. Is it possible that the protective film on new car screens is still there and was never removed.These films are sometimes of such good quality,they are very hard to see.I found a piece of protective film on one of my watch bracelets recently...after 4 years of wear!.......insert chosen Specsavers joke here..
    1 point
  39. Correct, why the LS400 didn’t suffer the same issue is open for debate. I have never owned a LS430 so can’t comment on why LS430’s suffered from it. Maybe it’s down to the make/type of radiator or where the connections to the radiator are located.
    1 point
  40. So the trans fluid setup is exactly the same as the LS430 - but the LS400 never suffered from the problem the LS430 does.
    1 point
  41. You will probably have an MM17 version of the multimedia system in that vehicle which should be able to do at least a 128GB stick when formatted fat32. As Adrian says, check it really is FAT32 - modern versions of windows won't format fat32 natively and you need a third party application to make a fat32 filesystem on large sticks. There are also restrictions to number of directories and max file limit but I would guess unless you have 10s of GB of music loaded already you won't be anywhere near that. Paul
    1 point
  42. Yes as pressing the bushes out would need specialist equipment and for me it was easier to remove the arm and replace it and by the time you pay someone to change the bushes it was cheaper for me to change them
    1 point
  43. Hi Kalpesh. How are you getting on with your new car? Simple answer for you is go for 17 inch wheels. If it's comfort you want then 17's is the way to go.
    1 point
  44. My Ls600 has the same problem but it is hardly noticeable, especially with music on...
    1 point
  45. Good afternoon Craig. I have an LS460 which also suffers with the wind noise around the window area. I didn't bother with the Jim Craney fix. I discovered that if I just hit the window down switch for a fraction of a second so it lowers the window about 1/32" the wind noise disappears. I have done this since I bought the car 3 1/2 years ago and no rain or other water, including from my pressure washer, has ever got into the car. Give it a go and let us know how you get on. Regards. Steve.
    1 point
  46. Well I test drove the GS300h and I must say it's a lovely car the CVT gearbox is so much quieter on this compared to the Corolla/Camry, proper soundproofing I think. Had it ridden a bit softer I would have bought it but again when I got back into the LS 400 I realised how comfortable a car it was especially it being 27 years old. Tried out a modern Skoda Superb and that was a little firm for me so I will try that car with DCC fitted and if that doesn't do it for me I shall keep the LS 400! Thanks for the input and enjoy your cars! I think the GS300h with adaptive suspension with a comfort mode would have been perfect!
    1 point
  47. My car is 2012 Premier with 18' wheels (it's 450H but I don't think this will make a difference) and if I had to rate how smooth the suspension is I would give it 6/10. My dad's 22 year-old E-Class with 16" rides much much smoother, but I will still get the GS because I enjoy the balance between comfort and firmness. I haven't driven a facelifted car with 17's. The ride should be slightly better but still won't be comparable to the LS. The thing with all new cars is that they are trying too hard to be sporty because big wheels and aggressive bumpers sell more cars. It would be great if you could share your thoughts once you drive a car with 17" wheels.
    1 point
  48. I managed to get in touch with the CT200H owner, looks like that was a successful project. With regards to my status, it seems like the PCS side of things are working. Yesterday I was surprised with the "BRAKE!" warning when I came a little close to someone at the lights. So the issue seems limited to the DRCC part.
    1 point
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