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Instructions for replacing rear wheel bearing hub assembly on Lexus LS430, 2000 - 2007. Hi all. Having read so many threads of how to replace rear wheel bearings, but none with any real detail, I tackled the job myself and thought it may be helpful to give detailed instructions. (Before I forget them...) To ascertain which side is noisy, take a test drive. Pick a smooth surfaced road so you can clearly hear the bearing noise above tyre noise. When going around a right hand bend, the weight of the car shifts to the left, so the left hand bearing will load up and start its classic "wooooommm, wooooommm, wooooommm" noise, which will revert back to just an audible, low pitched consistent growl, which varies in pitch with road speed, when you're going straight. Ditto for the right hand bearing. It will make the noise when going around a left hand bend. Having determined which wheel bearing is at fault, time to replace the bearing. Buy a complete hub assembly. Don't bother trying to replace just the actual bearing out of the assembly. Not worth the hassle. I trawled the net and got a genuine Toyota one for $94.50 delivered. You will need:- Torch or leadlight. Mirror 10mm socket 17mm short socket 19mm socket 32mm 12 point socket (1/2" drive) and either a breaker bar or impact gun. ratchet wrench and a couple of short extensions pliers Medium sized 2 or 3 claw puller (even a relatively cheap one will do the job). A short length (6") of flat steel, say 1/2" wide, which you can bend the last 1/2 " to make a hook at 90 degrees, and the other end to about 1" at 90 degrees the opposite way. Sort of making an elongated Z. Procedure:- Jack up the rear wheel with the noisy bearing, and remove road wheel. Put axle stand under subframe mount at front of wheel arch for safety. Remove brake caliper (2x19mm bolts) and tie up to take strain off brake hose. Remove brake disc (not held on by anything other than roadwheel. Remove split pin from end of axle and remove castellated locking cap. Using 32mm socket and breaker bar (or impact gun) undo axle nut. Remove 10mm bolt from ABS sensor and pull sensor out of the way. Look in the hole and you'll see a hole in the sheetmetal cover over the ABS cog. Spray WD40 into axle splines in hub. You may have to give the end of the axle a gentle tap with a hammer and copper drift to loosen it in the splines. Place puller claws around hub and position threaded part in centre of axle. Tighten puller to push axle towards differential. It will move about 1" to 1.5". Note that you DO NOT have to remove the CV joint rubber boot. (Experience..) The hub assembly is held in place on the hub carrier by 4 x 17mm bolts. They are partly obscured by a round pressed sheetmetal cover protecting the ABS cog wheel. Using the strip of steel which you bent earlier, manoeuvre the end which you've bent 1/2" in behind this sheetmetal cover to hook under it, deep within the hub carrier. You'll need the torch and the mirror to see what you're doing. I used a drift pushing on the other 1" bent end and gently tapped at it towards the centre of the car, in a couple of places around the cover, and it popped out and came loose. This enables you to manoeuvre the 17mm socket with short extension onto all 4 bolts behind the hub carrier. They were not excessively tight, so were relatively easy to undo. Once all out, manoeuvre the drift inside the parking brake mechanism to tap the old hub carrier (which you're replacing) to loosen it. It will eventually move and come away from its circular recess. Carefully pull it out, and clean the circular recess with a fine wire brush or similar. Replace with new bearing/hub assembly and as they say, installation is a reversal of removal. Partly tighten the 4x17mm bolts in diagonally opposite sequence to ensure the hub sits straight in its housing. Then tighten securely. Be careful to align the hole for the ABS sensor on the sheetmetal cover in the same place you saw before when you removed the sensor. Release the puller and let the natural tension in the axle poke it through the new hub. This will push the sheetmetal cover into position, but give it a GENTLE tap from behind to ensure it's seated. Axle nut on & tighten with impact gun or bar. Castellated cover and split pin in. ABS sensor back in and bolted. Brake disc on. Caliper on and tighten 2x19mm bolts. Axle stand out, wheel on & tight, jack out and clean up before touching upholstery..... Job done. Lexie's all quiet again. Old bearing showed signs of rust, hence the noise. Hope this is helpful. Total job time approx 2 hours. Time for a coffee (or a beer...) Regards, Nodding_Dog

i lost my bike license thru dvla when it went from paper to photo card license because of a clerical error , took them 2yrs to get it sorted (stilll used my bike as it was near brand new and wasnt going to park it up till it was alll sorted .... ma bad lol

..... if I couldn't drive anymore I would be at a total loss ................ it's just incredulous to think that one day I might not be able to .................... but then I do have an aged aunt of 94 who still bounces around on London buses with her bus pass .................. so I guess that's an option maybe ........ heaven forbid that the time should arrive eh ! Malc

The toyota V8 can take any decent 5w30 or similar oil tbh, no need to use lexus branded oil at all. Just get a decent synthetic oil (valvoline, castrol, mobil, comma etcetc) and change it twice a year, you'll never have issues then since the additives will always be renewed after 6 months with new oil.

OK off direct Car topic. I had a bizarre day yesterday. My youngest Son who has mental health issues, needed my help to move Flats. Got up early and merrily scraped the frost from my Car Windscreen having pre-arranged to Hire a Transit van from a firm I hired from, four years ago. To my dismay, having brought along my Driving Licence (Paper variety), a Utility Bill and my National Insurance number I was told I could not be traced on DVLA's Driving Licence Register. Phoned through to DVLA to be told that I had surrendered my Licence in 2003! No I didn't I have it in my hand complete with Watermark! Invoking the Data Protection Act they would give no other information but suggested I fill out a D1 Application for a Driving Licence. So according to their records, technically I could be arrested if I drove my Car home and have been uninsured for twelve years!. I'm grounded until DVLA find their mistake. Unlikely to be quick. I have witten to them and NOT filled out a D1 form as I don't want them taking the short cut route of suggesting I need to take a Driving Test etc, etc.. I've had a clean FULL (a) (d) & (e) driving licence for fifty years and it expires next year.. Absolutely unbelievable, not to mention extremely inconvenient. MY ADVICE TO ALL WOULD BE TO GO ONLINE TO DVLA AND CHECK YOUR LICENCE IS CORRECTLY RECORDED.

Graham, I'm waiting till your 50th before I do anything special :)

Hello, If my GS is cold then it will run on the engine until it reaches normal temperature when it will go to battery power.( In the last week of colder weather its only done 31 mpg instead of the normal 33). I assume the 600 is the same. PETE

The airbag light is meant to be on. It shows whether you have the adult or child (baby seat) option selected. There is a button under the dash which you switch to select. Safety issue, if your baby seat faces backwards and the airbag goes off, you literally push the baby/child into the back of the front seat, with the child option selected the airbag deploys in a different way to the adult airbag.

Our American friends seem to go in for this sort of stuff more than we do. I would put it down to them not appreciating just how much superior engineering goes into an LS. You don't win 12 global J.D.Power surveys (a record) by chance. We all know about the superb world-beating V8, but even little details like the extra soft leather on the inside door handles isn't there just by chance either. It's there to make you feel cocooned in luxury when you get in. Like Hugh, I couldn't bring myself to seriously 'bling up' my motor. I appreciate what went into the LS. Others may have a different view of course.

Why the hell would you want to mess about with a car that took a billion dollars and hundreds of engineers to develop, and is widely regarded as one of the finest bit of automotive engineering ever seen? I would suggest selling your Lexus, and buying a Vauxhall Corsa to tart up

well i have never owned one lol but i have been looking into the GS450h and go on the forums on a regular basis. there is no definitive answer - it all depends how much charge there was in the batteries. on the gs forum it was noted that the engine kicks in as soon as you drive off. im sure the member with the silver 600h up north will be able to tell us more

Long time since I thought about washing up liquid. I had heard it was a problem because of salt, but on the aa web site, just seen it saying it produces too much foam - so I assume that means you could end up driving through a bubble bath. I would imagine the amount of any additive in washing screen liquid will eventually cause a problem to the something on the car (be it paint, wipers, screen rubber), but the amount of salt and junk on roads in winter must surely do as much damage in the long run. The idea of meths and washing up liquid sounds fair enough, but I use the Halfords stuff, good value, keeps the screen clean and means I get to keep the meths for family tea times :P

What a pain, I hope sorting it goes without too much grief. Mike.

Gutted for you - at least no one injured.

Yes good look mate hope you get sorted.

My sympathies - that sort of thing makes you feel really gutted, especially when it's not your fault. Keep us updated

Dah.... rotten luck mate. Hope it all gets sorted OK for you.

10mm. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

Believe its a 10 mil

Your thread put me in a blue funk until I read this on money saving expert quote "If you have a paper licence that was issues pre-1998, these generally don't expire until you're 70, so you don't need to do anything until then unless your address or personal details change. All licences must be in the photocard format by 2033. Once you reach 70 there's no fee to renew, and you'll then get a photocard" Unquote. My paper Licence was issued well before 1998 on change of address and should be listed as valid. The only curious possible coincidence and pure conjecture on my part as to DVLA's error, is that I believe my Mother may in 2003/2004 have surrendered her Licence by Order of the Court owing to a minor incident and Police advice. At 84 I was quite understanding that her driving days were over. Now I can empathise with the trauma it caused her and was partly I'm sure responsible for her gradual decline into dementia. She loved to drive and hated the idea of being without her Car. We become dependant and sometimes more so, as we age. How would Members cope with not being able to drive I ask? I am sorry to hear the sad story of your mother. I have to admit I don't know what I would do if I had to give up my license. Mike.

I think it is the salt content of Fairy Liquid ( other brands are available) that causes problems with paintwork.

I use Castrol Magnatec 5w30 fully synthetic, usually buy it from Halfrauds when on offer but now have a trade card so works out OK at "trade" price.

good idea. here is link https://www.gov.uk/view-driving-licence

Sorry Graham but there is a red flag on using washing up liquid from just about every advisory group regarding screen wash and washing the car. It contains a very aggressive degreasing agent that is known to damage paintwork and causes the rubbers around the windscreen to harden over time.

Lots on this in other posts. I have replaced mine with high intensity LED (820 lumens) and removed the silvered shields and it is a lot better.

Yes all generation II RXs. Discussed to death here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/71469-rx400h-reversing-lights-or-lack-of-lexus-email/

Update... Here is what was explained to me as a possible - but not definitive - cause of my problems. I am saying possible, as diagnostics did not pick up any fault. I hope I will do the technician justice in my explanation below! . The sensors are made of three main parts. An outer ring, a small disc (the sensor), and in between a rubber ring. The sensor works in a way that similar to a sonar, sending and receiving sound waves. The rubber ring around it allows the sensor to register the tiny vibrations from incoming sound waves. When the 3G glass coat (clear coat protection) was applied to my car, it was also applied over the sensors and surrounding rubber ring. Over time, the 3G glass coat hardened to such an extent that the rubber ring became completely rigid, thus preventing any kind of movement., hence confusing the system. The sensors were removed, dismantled and thoroughly cleaned so as to remove all trace of the clear coat, and then re-installed. No problem since.