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Seeing as tyres are probably the most important safety feature on a car I would personally get a new tyre. I wouldn’t want that blowing out at speed!

I'll definitely be getting the same make (Bridgestone Alenza). The car has only done just over 7000 miles so the difference in tread depth between old and new shouldn't be too great.

Personally would get it replaced ASAP regardless of advice as you never know.......

Yes, change it before you regret not changing it.

Needs replacing safety first always with tyres.

Or possibly two to ensure you have matching tyres of the same make and wear characteristics.

As well as John's red roadster,I had a silver one.It cornered well ,as a lightweight mid engined car should.It wasn't particularly fast,but could be fast from a to b,given its handling.I found it tended to skip around about on bumpy roads.The handling tightened up a bit when I put the hardtop on in the winter.The alloy wheels corroded as fast as the car could corner..I think I had 5 replaced under warranty. My wife hated it and we didn't keep it that long and she chose the next car-a MercSLK 320. You can't compare a lightweight 2 seater roadster with a 4 door saloon.

If you're comfortable doing brakes on a car these are fairly straightforward. From memory, fronts require wear sensor to be removed on OSF, retaining clips for pins to be taken off and then pins removed, this gives you access to pull out the pads. Remove reservoir cap, push back pistons evenly. Do one pair at a time, leave the pads in while doing this to protect the pistons. Clean, remove caliper and support out of the way so no strain is put on the flexi. Having an impact screwdriver with the correct bit is almost a necessity I've found for removing discs, the one where you set the bit in the screw and hit the end with a hammer which shocks and turns the retaining screw. If you don't have one then clean, spray, pray, tap and try to remove the screw. Replace the disc, pads & shims and re-assemble. I always clean all the pins etc too. Rears, I can't remember now but I didn't have any issues and it was straightforward... If I remember I'll edit this post. There is a handbrake mechanism in the drum part of the disc, adjuster is accessible through the hole in the disc. There are two shims/backing plates for the rear pads and one is directional too so be careful when taking apart to make sure it goes back together properly. Also a good opportunity to replace the brake fluid too.

Update for the thread, located a windscreen from Silver Shield Windscreens, based in St. Ives, Cambridgeshire, confirmed via car reg, part number and tint! Went and picked it up today alongside a new chrome strip for the top of the screen, mega chuffed! Recommendation came from the LS owners on facebook and Simon who responded to my emails couldn't have been more helpful. The next hurdle of course is, getting it fitted (and will it?) 🤣🤞

A decent tyre garage would give you the best advice but it is probably safer to get it replaced. If most of your driving is slow - around town - you could risk running it for a while but if you do faster driving then safer to get it replaced.

There again you could place your phone behind the car and record as video then watch to see if all the lights come on. Once you are happy you can then put it on tik tok/Facebook/YouTube where it could go viral and people will then stop you in the street wanting to check your brake lights and have a selfie taken with you 😀

Yes I agree that it's a great car but the Link app is all part of the ownership experience and it just doesn't work. I can't now for instance lock the car remotely as it says the vehicle is moving! Vehicle journeys are almost all being recorded and service history largely upbto date but vehicle location and date is invariably incorrect. It appears that they address one issue only for another that previously worked to fail. Toyota Europe who appear to give the technical backup are clearly inundated as I am told that a fix could "take some time". This isn't good enough on a £60k premium vehicle and the previous enviable reputation that Lexus enjoyed is under jeopardy. I appreciate that when you purchase a newly introduced model there is a risk that teething issues may arise but the recalls to date and those in the pipeline lead me to believe that the NX was launched prematurely. I await to hear the dealership update this week.

Could this problem be something as simple as resetting the steering sensors. I don’t know about Lexus but I know that on a Mazda (MX5 at least) if you run the battery flat or disconnect it, after reconnecting or recharging you see a the VSC light flashing. The steering sensors need to to re-learn their positions, by turning the steering lock to lock a couple of times, turning ignition off and then on again this resets the system and turns the warning off.

Hi there, I'm on the hunt for a Lexus LS460. I'm struggling to find one that I like. I went to look at one yesterday but it wasn't as described. Ideally I'm looking for one with the 'L' package and beige interior. Anyone selling theirs? Thanks, Dan

Just received the same update on the app also, looks like things could be finally moving after 14 1/2 months.

Well, it seemed to be in good condition. It was low mileage, all original, including the 15" wheels. Seemed very well kept. But I heard they all can sufer from oil burning, even low mileage. So could be that. But visually I saw no il burning. Engine bay was clean and exhaust wasn't smoking. Just a correction. My IS250 doesn't feel like a granddad car at all. Maybe because of the manual shifter. Maybe because of the sports exhaust and Fsport intake. But it just doesn't. It feels as good as any 3-series, which I also drive quite often. 🙂

Very likely not in top condition. A MR2 in top condition is not a slow granddaddy car like a heavy 4 door sedan. I have seen many MR2 with far too big wheels on them and that does not make them faster, they just look more - whatever. And right David, the Spyder is stiffer with hardtop on, but that is extra kilos not needed here on the island. The Spyder was without hardtop on handling far better than the 1984 Supra 3.0L Targa we kept only 3 months or so as it was by far the worst new car we ever bought.

They are indeed runflats. I'm fully expecting to need a replacement. Just arranging the finance 😀 Cheapest I've seen online for a replacement is £274 (Asda Tyres). Maybe my local independent fitter will be slightly cheaper.

I had one of these for three years and 90K miles. I would say that dynamically it was superior in every respect to my IS250. But then I don’t drive the Lexus in the same way! The MR2 was a joy to drive and a pleasure to own. It was a strict two-seater but if you wanted to get away for a few days then you had to be a bit creative in stowing luggage behind the seats and under the bonnet. In all the time I had it, it only required regular servicing and the replacement of one main beam bulb. I’d be very happy to get in one again today - but I’d probably need a hand to get out! 😊 PS. Just noticed… unlike the photos, mine had the steering wheel on the correct side of the car. 😊

Are the new NX tyres runflats? In which case very likely a pothole has been hit causing the bulge. Needs a replacement for sure as it could risk a blowout

For me I got this update on 28/2 and then the build start date of 22/3/23. However it looks from recent posts that things are moving better. hope you get your build update soon

Just had the following email from my dealer today, I hope you're well. Just had a quick check of the order and supply information we receive from Lexus and it looks like delivery has moved forward slightly to around October which is good news! I'll keep you up to date on this as things change.

Just had 'my lexus' app update this afternoon along with an email saying "follow our progress", so it looks like the build of my nx350h takumi could be imminent. Does anyone know how long it takes to start build once the app updates like in the image attached?

I was concerned about the theft of fine cars like mine especially because if they took my Wartburg it would never be found in the smokescreen that it leaves behind it. No-one has attempted to steal it. In fact no-one even looks at it. I don't understand when it is such a desirable dream car. It sounds like it had a King Prawn Madras the night before.

Gordon Bennet

Hi Lex. I clicked on that screen shot image and enlarged it but it became illegible but just tried again and clear as day. Not the best page to screen shot. With you having the C1336. Just what warning lights are showing on your dash? C1336 is quite a broad reading. Includes accelerator sensor, ABS issue, steering yaw fault etc. You've done the health check scan using techstream but did you click on the engine looking symbol bottom right of the screen? That symbol clears codes. You may have to do it twice because that C1210 code is a swine to clear.

Understandable. Hence the title of the thread. 😉

Had this one, changed suspension to adjustable and wheels to forged Braid wheels. Have no idea how Lexus IS drive, but doubt it would be able to handle as well as this one did. Not quite as good as Delta EVO Rally 4WD but very, very well.

On the dark web, apparently website lists the models of cars ‘supported’ by the theft device: Lexus models including the ES, LC, LS, NX, RX and Toyota models including the GR Supra, Prius, Highlander, Land Cruiser - and RAV4. The prices are up to €5000 for one one these devices. There are products targeting many car models, including from Jeep, Maserati, Honda, Renault, Jaguar, Fiat, Peugeot, Nissan, Ford, BMW, Volkswagen, Chrysler, Cadillac, GMC - and Toyota. So not only Lexus, so best to use a wheel lock or any deterrent to make it harder for these criminals. I use a Stop lock pro and a Wheel clamp till I fix a solution on the CAN Bus theft.

Please report back that you have a new tyre on.

Thanks for all the replies received to date. Much appreciated. I'll take the car to my local tyre fitter in the morning and report back.

Yes you can and someone on here did a write-up when they did theirs but I can't remember who did it. Try using the (awful) search facility on the forum and good luck.

Sadly with the upsurge in Lexus cars being stolen, i have decided its just not worth the worry or grief of owning one. I will be Part exchanging my 7 week old ES for something less desirable to thieves. Its a shame that Lexus dont seem to be taking that much interest in the problem. Lets hope not too many people are put off buying their cars over this .

the OBD port is under the dash, but in principle it triggers same function - clears yaw sensor memory and calibrates it.

I have a feeling that it affects early production cars. Mine (450h+) was manufactured in Jan 22 and whilst the app initially worked ok (not all journeys logged but everything else working), features have slowly stopped working over time since august last year the car position, fuel level, total mileage, remote heating and most recently the charge level/status have all stopped working. Not to mention the fuel flap not opening, the 2-3 recalls that it has been back for the experience of this Lexus has not been up to scratch compared to all of my previous ones It was particularly galling during the cold weather to be receiving emails from Lexus saying “beat the cold start by using the remote heating” when it wouldn’t work with my car The most difficult loss is the charge level and status as I used that a lot. All it is showing now is the battery at 50% and that it’s charging (it’s not) and the date of the last update was 24th April 2024 and has shown this for the last 2 months Having worked in software fora long time I can only guess that the data being sent to the Lexus servers is either corrupted or an older version which the servers are mis-reading. I cannot use the map update feature from the settings and the DCM symbol on the display is often crossed out indicating no connection. It used to have a strong connection all of the time and I live on the edge of a city with mobile phone masts at the end of my road so I don’t believe it’s a signal issue My feeling is that it is probably an early production DCM issue on the NX as there is a DCM recall due that has been put on hold, a couple of people on Facebook have reported significant issues after having the update making the display unusable. That is yet another recall that mine will need to go back for sometime I agree with @Ken R that the connectivity is a key part of the overall vehicle and whilst there car is great and I don’t think I’d consider selling just because of the app, it will influence my next purchase significantly.

Yeh I think owing to the size of the site this year, there was a lot of that going on, everyone moving around in circles missing each other. Thanks for the pic, the RCF got quite a lot of interest parked next to that burger stand 🙂

Ask them to leave a bit on - free racing stripes!

Yes... that is why when I was ordering my ID BOX I made sure to find one with 2 keys already, because I knew the replacement would be ~£600.

All I can tell you is that both codes relate to the camshaft. P0012 Intake camshaft position timing. P3190 Toyota/Lexus code - defective camshaft position sensor. Neither of these relate to EGR I think you'll need a garage.

Battery only needs ~15-20minutes to charge and driving couple of time a week would be quite normal. Cannot see this as being an issue. No... don't do it - Lexus batteries are not amazing and you would be just overpaying for mediocre battery. Consensus from the owners is that Bosch S4 is probably the best battery you could get, so you already have it... Lexus one won't be better. As well as it seems there is nothing wrong with the battery you have, so not sure why you want to replace it? As well do not start car daily, this not only wouldn't help, but likely would hurt the car and the battery. Unless you planning to start the engine and wait until it get's warm... (and that on 4GR-FSE could take good 10-15min and would waste a lot of fuel), then you simply going to be using more battery to start the car than it could recharge. As well you would prematurely wear out the engine, because the majority of wear is caused at the start-up and until oil circulates (say first 10 seconds of engine running). If you driving twice a week for 15 min and engine get's warm - this is more than enough to fully charge the battery. If you do that (drive twice a week for 15 min +) and the battery still dies, then you need to look for the issues elsewhere, either you have parasitic loss, or it isn't charging properly. Getting CTEK trickle charger would be only addressing the symptoms, not the problem. If you say you driving once a month, then yes - that would be an issue of not driving enough and indeed trickle charger would be the only solution.

Oh dear…the wheel bearings are not an easy replacement and Lexus would charge top rate. The suspension downlink needs removing…(easy)…bearing needs to be removed from hub (diy if you have equipment) cost of bearing can be stupid. But it all adds up. You’re at least set for a long time now…

Kevin - it would probably go further !

Not really a strange world - all you have to do is to accept that all insurance companies, utility companies and so on are out to bleed us until we squeak! When I first started driving in 1975 a "fully comprehensive" policy was just that; everything you needed in one easy-to-arrange package. Now, if you want X you have to pay for it; "You want Y sir? That will be an extra [sticks finger in mouth then holds it up to see wind direction] £85 sir" I don't want to meet the Grim Reaper for a while yet, but let's just say that I'm glad I'm on the last bus to his place because this world is going to Hades in a handbasket on all fronts.

Sorry Lex. That's a poor quality screen shot. I can't make any of it out.

I could, but don't want to.

The first radio I fitted to my A35 van was one from a pals Ford can't remember the model. It consisted of a large black box containing valves and a thick cable from said box to a tuner display unit. All rather large but worked well. Amazing what you do when you're a broke 17yr old. Recently used my tape player to listen to my late brother's tape from when he was a professional entertainer, quite a treat.

Well my IS300h has just sold privately. Yes there was a bit of hassle but not too much and it went to a lovely chap and the return was c25% higher than what the Lexus dealer offered in part exchange and both parties were happy, I’m guessing if he’d purchased it from the Lexus dealer he would have paid another c25% over what he paid me.

The solution is simple, just park between a couple of Range Rovers

The facelift IS300h (late 2016 MY17 onwards) has CAN bus headlights and therefore wiring which can be intercepted at the front of the vehicle, like the series IV RX. Your 2015 model doesn't.

erm.. but in order to select reverse, you have to almost whack the gearstick over to the left and then up. anyway - i understand your point guys and accept it - there's no problem there. i'm merely asking now if anyone knows how to disable/remove it - that's all. thanks :)