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Last nights 45.2/40.2 with yesterday’s actual a miserly 28, although 90% of that would have been on dual carriageway sat at around 60mph with a few roundabouts to negotiate

Hi Rik. You asked about how to check the cars service history. From memory you need to go on the Lexus website and look under 'my Lexus ' and register your car. You need to provide the log book number and give your car a name. From this you click on your car and within navigate to that cars service history. It'll show All services and repair and warranty work done by Lexus. It won't however show independent garage work. Like I said this info is from memory. I'm sure someone will come along and correct me. I could tell from the site the service history of the 4 Lexus cars I've owned.

And still it falls......Last night's overnight charge giant prediction of 46.2/38.3.

If anything like the RC300h or the RX450h then it's always active and adjusting to the road conditions and your driving style. When in S or S+ then it will firm up the suspension but it is always adjusting itself to control pitch and roll. The Lexus AVS is far more accomplished than the AIRmatic was on my AMG 👍

It’s when I’m leaving the vehicle in a car park and I close the boot and then realise I forgot to put something in it that irritates me .. as I have to wait for it to fully close again before I can lock the car (my 2016 model doesn’t have the extra lock button inside the tailgate, just a close button). Plus I dislike the loud beeping to announce the whole event (akin to “Look! He’s forgotten something AGAIN!”). I have a big birthday next year so I like the idea of timing myself to see whether I’m getting slower than the tailgate as time advances!! We share mpg figures, how about time from tailgate to drivers door personal bests?!!

My previous car was a BMW E39 (which I still have but expect to sell later this year). I changed to the top Premier model 3rd Series RX450h because of back problems. The length of the third series RX450h is the same as my E39 so probably a little shorter than the E38. The V6 in the Lexus is almost as smooth as the straight 6 in the Beamer petrol. 0-60 in both is about 7.5 seconds. However, there is a big difference between the auto gearbox which sounds like clutch slip in the RX, particularly with hard acceleration. So you just have to accept it and learn to live with it. As the RX is largely front wheel drive assisted by electric power on the rear, you do get a bit of torque steer when you boot it. Many of the spare parts are only available from Lexus and are quite expensive as being a much bigger selling car in the UK and Europe, there are far more alternatively produced parts for BMW. The RX handles well enough for a high high and heavy car and still has a spare wheel, albeit a slightly less broad space saver, one of the reasons why I ruled out a BMW SUV. brakes are good at lower speeds but don't match those of the E39 or E38 at high speed all with standard pads. As has been mentioned the 12v battery is low capacity and is expensive if replaced with the identical Panasonic or Yuasa equivalent AGM. A number of members have just replaced theirs with a much cheaper Fullflow Lead Acid one. (There are threads on this if you search for them. I couldn't get on with the Lexus Navigation so use a 6" TomTom with free updates and cameras mounted on a platform I fabricated. Sound though the ML system provides good sound in better spec cars but infotainment system lags behind current standard but probably equal to your E38. I plan to keep my car for a few years yet until the traction batteries in full EV vehicles are more advanced and the network of chargers improves.

So today I test drove the LBX Takumi Design out of the Lexus Bolton dealership.. as mentioned I’ve been an NX owner three times over but am now entering into retirement.. I was surprised with the LBX, I found it technically advanced (over my 2yr old NX), quiet to drive, handled well, responsive, comfortable.. there was a mention of a small boot space.. well I compared it side by side with a UX and found it to be bigger.. clearly not a NX space but that size boot for me is no longer needed.. so all in all impressed.. Order upgraded and delivery expected mid to end of April

I recently picked up a 192cm tall wardrobe ( 60x50 wide ) and it went in fine … passenger seat put all way forward and pushed up to that.

On the road is apparently is the lowest premium as the low life don't know what house to steal the keys from... Driveway second as many people damage their cars going in and out of their garages. Doesn't seem to account for potential damage from passing cars though! Driveway second as many people damage their cars going in and out of their garages. My parents have done that a few times...

Leave the GPS off there is still a Mitchell bomber out there with a nuke unaccounted for and accidents happen.

Thanks Paul, I'll try that. I can also confirm that fat32 and less than 32gb works fine. J

I was advised keeping the car kerbside really did keep the premium down ……. garage and driveway a no-no 🤔 Not sure I believe anything the brokers, insurers tell me tbh Malc

Just wondering Ken.. Has it More to do with The Car Location In The UK Can,t think of anything else in the Equasion That could influence the Quote...!!!!! Who Knows ..They all have Different Algorithims when they Calculate Risk and indeed what they can Get Away with in my Opinion..!!!!

Generally speaking, if a Lexus car is compatible with Openpilot (a self driving system), it has a vulnerable canbus. The new Yaris and Yaris Cross are not listed as compatible (just like the new NX and RX), and that’s the platform the LBX is built on. I’m not sure Lexus will ever officially confirm which cars are or aren’t vulnerable- so I think that’s the best we’re going to get. As Ronnie said, lots of ways and reasons a car gets stolen these days, vulnerable canbus or not.

I think I already have the Norman 'twitch' nailed down.

May be this varies considerably by car manufacturer. Lexus may fare rather better than others. I have recently been searching for a jag xk series and I can tell you there are more than a few so called low mileage cars that have serious, terminal even, corrosion issues. Frankly, they really have little more than 'breaking' value in my mind given the costs of keeping them MOT worthy. The other aspect of this is this. A car that is doing reasonable mileage most weeks that puts it beyond low mileage per se comes with a certain psychological advantage. The owner using it regularly is more likely to accept the value of keeping up it's maintenance. Someone poodling around in a car for a 1,000 miles a year let's those advisories just run and run as long as they don't result in MOT failure. That is also an indicator of their general mindset to spending on maintenance. All of the latter has exceptions , of course we all know that, but if you look at enough MOT histories you will see plenty of evidence that this happens a lot. You can almost seem the 'wheels' turning for the owners thought process. Only done a 1,000 miles this year and it cost x for road tax, y to insure, that's z for cost per mile covered , oh can't justify spending C on maintenance unless I absolutely have to. I am really glad yours worked out for you, but I think this is a bit parochial rather than a general rule that it will usually work out that way. Frankly, if it's low mileage I think the bills for works becomes even more essential. If you don't see much then likelihood is you will be starting with tyres reardless of tread and moving on from there to corroded brake pipes, suspensions arms etc etc.

Eddie, that looks lovely, I’m potentially retiring in a few months, I had a Yaris Cross as a loaner a little while back whilst waiting for my GS450h to be prepped by the dealer I was purchasing from. Obviously a very different car to the GS which I use for 300-500 mile round trips for work most weeks but for something which will be used locally only in retirement it looks great. I’m also tempted to see if the 300bhp version will come out and I know that’s pretty unnecessary for my needs but also thoughtful that life’s too short sometimes to always just do what’s most sensible!

Hi Jag, we purchased our 2011 Advance model in 2014 with 70k on the clock, it’s predominately my wife’s car but we always use it for family getaways with two kids, the dog, luggage etc. Now with 150k on the clock, annually serviced and nothing has gone wrong. As has been mentioned, not as cosseting as something like the LS400 which I ran for 18 years but a very easy to live with do it all car which no would no hesitation in recommending. I too like to buy privately and tend to use my gut feel about the owner/condition etc, if things go wrong on a private sale there’s little chance you can do a great deal about it. Good luck

IntroCar Ltd now the most recognised supplier of Bentley and Rolls Royce parts in the UK for stuff that has gone obsolete because they also re produce parts using CAD and 3D printing. They single handedly re designed the head gasket for the 6.75 V8 engine to a superior standard than the original and is produced by a company in South Africa for IntroCar. They specialise in S1,2 and 3 Bentley and Rolls Royces, Shadows and T series Bentley, all the SZ varients, Arnage and Silver Serephs. Take a look at their YouTube Videos, they are an education in what's possible and do not over charge. They export a huge amount of parts all over the world. Continental GT's are also catered for. Flying Spares led the way for a number of years but only from a breakers point of view. IntroCar remanufacture thousands of parts that were thought to have become obsolete by taking the original and making their version better. Their website allows you to filter all models and into the various categories of parts. I used them a number of times for my 1997 Brooklands LPT, a 2001 Bentley Arnage Le Mans and my last Bentley, a 2005 Arnage R. I managed to get the parts I needed at the time when the dealer network said no longer available. Sorry no pic of my SZ Brooklands but without doubt the SZ range was the best over Engineered model the factory ever produced because it was designed first and then priced whereas the cars that followed were priced first and then designed. Graham Hull the best designer ever in my opinion who was heavily involved in the SZ models before he was made Chief Designer for the 1998 Arnage. He later admitted one of the biggest challenges he and the Engineers had was redesigning the chassis in 2000 when those Tossers BMW started to mess the factory around and threatened to stop supplying the 4.4 V8 for the Bentley when VW outbid them for the brand. Hence the Arnage Red Label with the original V8 which was retro fitted into the Arnage shell after the chassis was heavily modified. I loved my Bentley cars but experienced far too many incidents of vandalism and outright hatred over 10 years by pond life bottom feeders who do this country down and respect nothing and no one.

I'm in a quandary on my next barge, so whilst I agree and a Bentley is my dream car, it has waaaaaay more potential big bills. Bentley SZ cars and prior, are total classics and corrosion prone. Arnage Red labels blow head gaskets; apparently when not if, for near £10k bill and Arnage R & T eat their camshafts with NO available replacement parts. Car Wizard was unable to repair an Arnage due to no available transmission actuators on the planet; including from Flying Spares !!!! A mass produced modern luxury car like the Continental GT (a Phaeton in party frock) is much less likely to be rendered unrepairable in one go like that, especially given the second hand spares availability.

Welcome Jag. I own pretty much what you'll be looking out for, a late 2014 3rd generation model. It's now on 76k, I've done over 50,000 of that since I bought it in 2019. It just works, it's reasonable on fuel, decent to drive and doesn't have too much 'in your face' tech but what is there is good quality. It's not the top-spec model so it doesn't have the occasionally troublesome air suspension. I use mine driving around muddy country lanes, in town and on holiday in France. It's equally capable for all of those things. The loadbay isn't as big as some large estate cars, but it can take a fair bit of weight. The ride isn't quite as cosseting as you might expect (nothing like my older LS400), but I suppose it has to fairly firmly sprung to give reasonable handling on what is a heavy car. I suspect you'll find fewer toys than on the BMW. For me it's more about quality and you might find it takes a while for some of its good points become apparent. There are two other local ones that I see, both have also been with their owners for a long time. The lower-spec SE 'base model' is rare, you could almost dismiss ever finding one. The nav system is fairly basic whatever model you get. The only really common fault is the power tailgate mechanism, it seems to be affected by cold/damp weather and every winter there'll be a fresh round of people suffering with it. Hasn't happened to mine (yet?!) despite it living outside. In common with other Lexus hybrids the 12v battery is small and it doesn't like being left for long periods without being run. Replacement options are limited, but it's nothing to do with the hybrid battery I personally wouldn't worry about higher mileage if it has good history - mine is doing just as well now as it was when I bought at 23k miles. I'm planning to keep mine for another 5+ years, maybe longer if it's still doing a good job. It goes to the main dealer for servicing plus I've had other visits there for brakes and the 12v battery (it suffered during Covid lockdown). My view is if I treat it like a nearly-new car then it will behave like one. A 2015-16 model as you're looking at will qualify for the no-cost Relax warranty until it's 10 years old (and 100k miles I think?), so ong as it's serviced by a main dealer. After that Lexus offer an extended warranty, about £500/yr which includes full AA cover (including European cover). Again it's dependent on servicing at the dealer, and I shall probably keep going with it on mine. Services there will also give warranty cover on the hybrid battery up to 15 years old.

My tip would be don't travel unless necessary, many jobs allow working from home in the post pandemic era. If you do venture out make sure the car is fully defrosted and all windows clear, also be wary of using your screenwash which can instantly freeze in cold conditions. I have a recollection of driving on black ice on a dual carriageway, car in front spun hit the kerb and then rolled over three times (fortunately no one was injured). I stopped and got out of the car, immediately falling on my arse it was so slippy.

Hi All - Thanks for welcoming me to the forum and this is my first post! I'm parting ways with my 2001 BMW e38 7 series as the engine died on me. Was my pride and joy for the last 15 years. Anyway I'm considering I think its a series 3 of the RX450h aiming for around 50k miles or there abouts and 2015-2016 model. I have a few questions 1. Is this range of model an easy target for canbus theft. I was reading the forum and heard some of the horror stories. Couldn't pin point which series it affected aside from the most recent 2. Which trim level is the more superior SE, Luxury, F-Sport, Premier I also see Advanced too.. Its quite confusing. I'm guessing SE is the basic.. I like my toys if thats any help... 3. Anything i should look for when going to view cars.. Initially was looking at dealers and trade sellers but finding a lot more options looking at Private sales too. I've never bought privately is there any extra protection that can be had from going private. 4. Any pits falls to consider if buying a higher mileage model maybe 80-100k 5. Any benefit by buying a 3rd party Warranty via Lexus or any other company? Think thats it for now.. look forward to hearing some productive replies Thanks Jag

Don’t forget that if NX450 you will NOT have access to the full 300bhp+ unit the engine is warm , it is restricted until it comes up to temp…..even in sports mode it is restricted…it is a feature first seen in the Yarris GR to protect the engine . It is VERY annoying on short , cold journeys as you don’t have FULL power for maybe 5-10mins of HV driving….

As most of the countries taking in stolen vehicles have LHD cars, you might think that our RHD models would be less attractive.

Well that's me told! I didn't realise this at all. Fascinating. I always thought it was a bit wasted unless you drove everywhere in S+... So, I must review what the Custom Mode setting screen says! Also, that must mean that the F-Sport feels different to drive in even Normal mode to other NX trims...

I would check all the carpets for dampness and lift up any covers in the boot to see if water is getting in anywhere.

I doubt it’s just UK originating stolen cars feeding the Africa and Eastern Europe crooked car dealers and breakers …….. How they get into containers and then freely onboard ships baffles me ……. does no one check, Maersk themselves whatever ? Clearly the UK insurance industry doesn’t care a hoot …… possibly not economically viable for them to set up any sort of checking system ! Simply up the insce premiums to cover themselves OR not even insure some marques …… like Range Rovers now I understand Best to simply own a car not worth thieving maybe 🤔 Malc

Morning All, well my 2022 RX now has the canbus plates fitted as of this morning. Re insurance quotes, whilst I was sitting in the showroom a chap picked up a 73 plate RX for a 48 hour test drive. I noted the reg and have just compared quotes . My lowest quote on a £42k 2022 RX is about £950. The quote for the brand new £70k model he took out was £536. Until Lexus encrypt the can bus and publicise that, every one affected will be faced with ever increasing insurance costs. Oh and For ES owners, my dealer mentioned they had / can adapt the plates for the ES from the RX ones. Maybe if you are an ES owner you should be enquiring.

One can gain access to the Lexus tech docs on all the car's functions, for a small fee, by going to https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Default.aspx and creating a free account. Some information requires payment but there's lots of free access stuff as well. The attached doc I downloaded for my 2016 RC300h and it details the control and operation of the AVS system. I can't believe the basic function would be that different model to model ADAPTIVE VARIABLE SUSPENSION SYSTEM CONTROL ADAPTIVE VARIABLE SUSPENSION CONTROL.pdf

When I bought my RC-F from Swindon, a salesman at my local dealer argued with me that I bought an RC-F Sport when I enquired with them…. I had to take him outside and open the bonnet to show him the engine before he believed me. Thought I was the mistaken one….

I see the LBX has just won the Car of the Year accolade by What Car. That's quite a boost. Described as first car in its class to combine hybrid efficiency with big car luxury.

their £40 an hour rate is brilliantly small ......... my cars have always lived next the sea and I've never suffered anything like terminal corrosion or indeed anything remotely corrosive ....... and my Ls400 ( 95 ) has lasted with zero extra treatment after leaving the factory ....... and now 248k miles fast approching Dont get paranoid about the " rust " that's possibly non existent Malc

Here's her older sister - super minx.

Yes, the bigger LBX engine version is likely out next year.. I might even change to that in about 2 yrs

Something isn’t right. My 2016 NX 300h doesn’t have this problem. I’d take it to your local dealer and get that sorted under warranty. A car of your age and quality really shouldn’t get this until many, many years down the road. A 2007 Ford Fiesta might get this, not a 2023 Lexus.

Thanks Mincey that is really helpful. With this and what I have already tested, despite what others say on other forums, I think the Fat32 is the only format readable by the car. On this basis, I suspect then that any USB device will also need to be 32gb or less if I remember correctly. I will test and report back Thanks again

It is common for used cars to be kept with minimal fuel in so that in the event of a theft from the forecourt the thieves can’t get far. It does seem common for dealers to not respect their customers cars and drive them in ways the owner would not. For example, the first time I saw my new to me car in the flesh it was doing 80 mph in the fast lane of a dual carriageway on its way to the dealer to meet me for a viewing. I rescued her from the nasty dealers and Pookie is now well cared for and driven with care and respect.

The trouble is that the Lexus CANBUS vulnerability is worse than other manufacturers (apart from JLR). I won’t commit to another Lexus without knowing it isn’t as vulnerable as my current RX - and I think the LBX ought to be ok as the new RX and NX are fixed, but want the assurance…

Welcome Jag The series III RX (2009-2015/16) doesn't have the CAN bus vulnerability, only the series IV (2016-2022/3) is vulnerable. See here for detailed info on the spec of the various different grades (Premier is the top grade):

Sounds a tad extreme. I mean I know my tailgate is slow, but by the time I've got from the rear of the car to the front, sat down and put my seabelt on, it's shut by the time I'm ready to drive off. As I get older I suspect it will eventually beat me to the driver's door 🙂

It's not the car, it's the market. In '21 and '22 the market was very tight, interest on carrying forecourt inventory was lower, and supply chain inflation was high due to component shortages. Now the supply-demand balance shifted back to oversupply, interest is high which reduces second-hand demand and increases the cost of keeping the cars for dealers means that they are forced to offload more cars by reducing the price. This is what hits you now, but the comparison to your previous is made more difficult by an unusually low depreciation due to market tightness.

Myself, I try to be upbeat ( if only for the Missus' sake ) but find it more natural for me to be miserable. I was born grumpy and have been perfecting it ever since. I could write a few pages about miserable things but I feel too depressed to even bother. BTW the Sun is shining! 😒😞😾

If you sell a nearly new car you will definitely take a big financial hit in depreciation. If you keep the car it may get stolen, (but however bad the stats are the majority of vehicles are not stolen), if it is you make an insurance claim, albeit you may not get a full market value pay out. The disadvantage of keeping a car at potential risk is peace of mind and insurance costs. This is my logic at least.

Something with some form of anti theft system? Something they can insure? Something that’s not going to be the next JLR?

I have known the service manager at my dealership for many many years both personally and professionally. The last time l was in l told him l was thinking of having the ghost fitted, although l didn't ask him specifically about battery drain he told me he could put me on to someone who fits them and he has sent many Lexus customers to him and they are happy with the installs. He likes the ghost system himself.

So to get this right. You would say that if an independent country like the Ukraine does not follow Mr Putins preferences on something like Nato then the next step of invasion is perfectly fine? Well, that is certainly a new take on preserving the peace. Ditto for Taiwan I guess. They should not expect to have the right to decide theirown future? I have in the main thought that reasonable people don't have to resolve their issues by 'thumping' each other into submission and that when that is the outcome then reason has left the room and the 'madmen' are in charge.

Perhaps some context is needed. One stolen LC out of circa 520 or in percentage terms 0.19%, hardly a commonly stolen car. With the insatiable demand for SUV's or their ilk, then the LC is unlikely to be at the top of the shopping list and I'd further suspect the one stolen was something of an aberration.

I bought one for my UX250H from this firm and very pleased with it. Its a really good fit and was delivered quickly. There is a section on it that may need but mine didn't just check the fit first. Hope this helps.

Hi all With pointers from various members (farqui, capese21), lots of reading, looking at service manuals, and mustering the confidence to rip apart the interior of my new Lexus Is300h, I have managed to install a front and rear dash cam (the Thinkware F770, £248 when I purchased, quite expensive, if Thinkware want to give me a rebate, I'd be delighted). It's been fuse tapped to the interior fuse box (no auxiliary / 12v cigarette lighter socket), all wiring hidden, none running in the interior, and I believe, safely (no cables running in front of SRS airbag deployment zones, ready to whip me in the head at 500 miles an hour). Having Previously taken my other cars apart, I usually end up with at least a snapped clip or something broken. This time, absolutely nothing. No broken parts, and all assembled as if it had never been taken apart in the first place. Stopping and starting throughout, and solving problems / making decisions as I went (I had no idea where I'd run it at first), meant it took around 3 hours to lay cables / re-assemble the car, and then another couple of hours or so to discreetly fit / mount the two cameras. I used some Fablon / Sticky Back Plastic to make it look like a factory install / to hide it. I've also got full DAB signal still which some had reported they had lost, due to electrical interference. I was considering a ferrite core (if that's what they're called), but have had no need for it. Pictures are not that good, and I didn't take loads, but the process ought to be quite clear with description. For any folk across the pond reading this, it is a right hand drive car! :-) I believe instructions on the web show the fuse box is in the driver footwell, but that is only the case on Left Hand Drive! Very happy with the outcome! =========== PART 1 - LAYING REAR CAMERA CABLING We need to lay the cables. The long cable that runs to the back of the car, to power the rear camera, and then the power cable to the fuse box. I thought at first, that I'd run it above the head of the driver (interior roof trim), but found that running it along the floor was the best way I ran the rear camera cable by starting from the rear view mirror. First, I disconnected to the 12V negative battery terminal in the boot. Just in case air bags wanted to deploy on me! It lost a bunch of settings, but not all of them. It was disconnected for hours. Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed, I assume the electric opener won't work without the battery connected! Next, I removed the A Pillar. Pull at it (not too hard), and it'll begin to come lose. There are three fixing points. There is a safety clip (should the airbag deploy), that prevents the trim from breaking lose and flying into the cabin. This black clip needs rotating 90 degrees, so it can unclip from the white part attached to the trim. The middle clip (half way down) ought to have unclipped itself when you losened the trim. The final clip at the bottom, is held by the plastic adjacent to the air vent / the plastic that sits parallel to the door. Just pull that plastic panel apart slightly, and the third clip holding down the A Pillar should come off. Start running the cable from the middle of the windscreen (poke it into the gap at the top of the windscreen). Use tape to hold the cable to the trim, so it doesn't sit in front of the air bag. Poke the cable between the rubber seal and the plastic to run it down to the footwell. Then, remove the long plastic sill trim that runs parallel to the scuff plate. Underneath, you'll see a bunch of the harness wiring running inside white plastic clips. You can run your rear view cable in here, alongside that, there is plenty of space. I even cable tied mine in, to make it neat. You'll want to keep running it to the back of the car. Unclip the bottom of the large piece of plastic which houses the various driver seatbelt mechanism. Also, remove the rear passenger driver side sill trim, and also the plastic that runs parallel to the driver side rear passenger seat (this last piece is a bit hard to remove - it's the one with the holes in it, where the air flow runs for the rear passenger). With all these pieces removed, you can run the cable all the way to the back, up the side of the driver side rear passenger seat, and up to top of the seat. I then poked the cable in between the trim (use a plastic edge, I used my ice scraper), all the way to the back of the glass, and then ran it up the edge of the rear window. As I did at the front, ran it around the edge, and ended up with the rear cable at the top of the rear window, right in the middle! Any excess lengths of cabling, I looped up and cable tied together. There was plenty of space for me to leave this behind that ventilated plastic trim (by the rear driver side passenger). Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures at this point (started in the afternoon, racing against time, before it went dark). That's the cable running from front to back, to support the dual cams! Great check point! Start re-assembling all the trims. They all should clip back on fairly easily. As mentioned above, the ventiled trim for the rear passenger is a bit difficult, but bear with it. The A Pillar is also a bit funny. You need to remove the black plastic clip that you had to rotate 90 degrees (little notches to push in to release it from the body work). I spent ages trying to push it together at all sorts of angles, before realising it unclipped, and it would absolutely not go back together unless removed. It'll push nice and easily back into the body work after. PART 2 - LAYING POWER CABLE / CONNECTING TO FUSE BOX I removed the A Pillar on the front passenger side, the plastic trim that has the airbag on / off key switch mounted in it, the bottom of the glove compartment (prises apart, use the ice scraper again), and the plastic sill trim, to allow unclipping of the one piece of plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect the cable running to the passenger footwell light too. I ran the cable at funny angles (can't remember all the detail, I sepnt a while debating the best route, but I wanted it perfectly discreet) behind the airbag switch and inside the dash board chassis / frame. I had to loosen a few of the door seals to get accces or to make things fit too, don't be afraid to do that. Again, I used cable ties to hold wiring neatly in place. You need two fuse taps (they are micro, low profile fuses in this car), and used 2A fuses for the tapped circuit. One for Battery (always on / parking mode), and one for ACC On (for driving mode). I really like this cam due to time lapse mode (30 mins video, in two min chunks), good night vision, the built in battery saver (to stop it flattening your battery - no need to spend £50 on something like the Blackvue Power Magic), and the fact it is front and rear. Using a multimeter, I checked which side of the fuse was providing the power, so I didn't put the fuse in the wrong way (See https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/). Wrong way, and a surge could mean the fuse doesn't blow to protect the camera. If I remember, the way my fuse tap was, it means the cable was pointing toward the driver side of the car (away from the front passenger door). That'd mean, left pin / side of the fuse slot providing power. I used the 15A "HAZ" (Hazard) for the always on / battery power (for parking mode), and then the 10A "IG I no.2" for the ACC On (for driving mode) as power sources. Worked perfectly. No interference / issues a week on. The plastic sleeves hosuing the DAB / Rain sensors, and the rear mirror mount, slides up and down. I used this to hold the dash cam cable up to the edge of the windscreen. I had to remove the white fuse box lid, and leave it off. It sits so flush / tightly against the fuses, that there is no room to re-install the it after. I am thinking of buying an additional cover, and cutting bits out, to fit around the fuse taps. I'd not like water in the fuse area from passenger feet. Neither having it kicked. Either that cap being cut up, or a metal frame screwed to the interior plastic, to prevent a foot smashing my fuse box and damaging my fuse taps. Or both. Yet to do this however. Earthed it on the bolt attached to the fuse box (black frame, silver bolt) - visible in the below pictures (image 08) PART 3 - MOUNTING CAMERAS As mentioned previously, I used sticky back plastic / fablon (rip off, £6 a roll in Hobby Craft for loads, I need about 30cm squared max). I cut it to the size of the front and rear cam, and stuck it to the windscreen (a bit of alcohol to clean the window first). What I didn't do, and wish I did, was hair dryer it, so it would melt a bit, and really bond itself to the windscreen. Can see small air bubbles from the outside if you really look, but most people won't. I wanted to do this, so the cam wouldn't get stolen. If it looks factory fit, it's usually less tempting. Great idea from capese21, I saw on his thread from a couple of years ago! Thanks! Also ran a thick strip parallel to the rear view mirror mount, to which I ran the cables up against, to the edge of the winscreen. I mounted the cameras onto this using the provided VHB tape in the camera kit (so difficult to remove the plastic bit to expose the sticky bit - cut it with a knife to get it started). Solidly mounted in place. Cables all connected up, I re-connected the 12V battery, and powered on. Be careful to check which way the rear camera is orientated before sticking it down (I've read people sticking it on upside down, and having a hard time removing it to correct it - the VHB is so strong). Before mounting the camera, I used the Android App, to view the camera in Live View mode (so I could ensure positioned correctly). Front camera is mounted off centre, on the driver side. It's out of view behind the mirror. Not ideal, but there are other things in the way. Smack bang in the middle would have been perfect. I configured my camera to shut off at 12.1V. Whilst car is on, the camera shows it is receiving about 14.4V. I set it to shut off after 6 hours, but as I've had no flat battery, tempted to set it to 24 hours. If the voltage gets too low, it'll shut off anyway. My advice: Take it slowly, leave plenty of time, don't rush the install. Flawlessly working. Any questions, let me know, I'll do my best to help. Pictures below, roughly in order. They should help a bit! Matt