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I think, the one and only LS460 in flame-blue or ultrasonic-blue 2.0 (8X1):

@Lex Loofa Hi Paul, just sent you a message. Here's a couple of photos of my old RX300 LPG installation. We no longer have the car as we traded her in for our current RX450h but I miss the LPG fuel savings. It's technically possible to convert a hybrid but I'm not brave enough to have it done. The hybrid is such a complex car so I don't see the point of adding another layer of complexity to it. Anyway, the old RX300 had an 85-litre toroidal tank in the spare wheel well and a central fill point so that it was easy to fill from both sides. The installer didn't go for a 'kit of parts' but instead chose each component as being the best for the car. It's been a couple of years since we had it converted so I can't remember exactly but I think he chose Magic Jet injectors with a KME Nevo gas ECU and I can't recall the brand of reducer he used, but together, what a brilliant system it made. 1. The FlashLube bottle 2. The gas ECU 3. The gas reducer/vapouriser.

Twin turbo V6- exhilarating

Tried that on my dashcam. Frustration rather than excitement. Went back to basics.....RTFM.....again !!

Never leave mine longer than 14 days, because the battery drain means it will be flat. Just replaced a Toyota/Lexus battery after under 3 years, because I think allowing it to run down shortens it’s life, so just ordered a CTek charger, or as has been mentioned use a solar charger.

Overall pretty good. Original asking price £13,400 Threw in an offer of £600 less the asking price. Or forecourt price plus an additional 36 month warranty thrown in. Came back with a counter offer of asking price plus additional 24 month warranty. Total = 3 years. Stuck my hand out at £13,300 and this was accepted. Give the FSH and very low mileage of 25k they probably feel fair safe giving a very generous warranty. If nothing goes wrong with it over three years then my haggling doesn't really return a huge amount of value. However if nothing goes wrong with it over three years then for me its a great buy at £100 less the asking price! Would rather 100% reliability than feeling like I'm getting one over a dealer by having expensive bits replaced under warranty. So a kind of win - win. Drove home through a cloud of salt being spread so already that clean looking front end is soiled!!!!!!!! Quick rinse and pics up tomorrow.

Well, I took the plunge and ordered a set. I found a local PCB repair workshop who is soldering them in as I write this! Removing the ECU (called ECM in the workshop manual) was a major pain in the a#s#. I had anticipated that it would be difficult having read as much about it online as i could. Most people had probs getting the glove box out.... I found that relatively easy. Perhaps the MK4 is slightly different to the Mk3 (which is what most online info seems to cover on this topic) but I found getting access to the two top nuts on the ECU bracket to be almost impossible.... butI I got there in the end. I had to do a lot of dismantling to get it out....It will be a minor miracle if I can put it all back together again and the car starts!

The belt, tensioner/idler, water pump, 10L of Toyota Super Long Life Pink coolant and labour came to about £460 inc. VAT on my RX300 at my local trusted indy garage. Be aware though, if you take it to a Lexus dealer then they only do the belt - they don't do the idlers/tensioners or water pump unless specifically asked for and at extra cost.

I agree with the N/A engines it's all about the sound and the fact you have to 'work' the engine. A few cars ago I had a SL63 AMG the one with the the N/A 6.2 litre engine it was wonderful to hear it going up through the gears, I had booked a four hour driving course at MB World in which I had the later twin turbo version of the SL63, it felt a lot more instant and brutal than my current N/A car but driving back after the course decided I liked the old N/A car more. I then progressed to the V12 twin turbo AMG which was ridiculously quick once on the move but again it took the 'fun out of winding the car up through the gears. I am obviously a dinosaur because I just love using all the revs on a N/A car. Plus having that 8 speed box and the paddles with the RCF/GSF is a delight compared to my previous cars. Makes you wonder with the PR generated by the Men in Black movie and the possibility of the V8 being phased out the RCF may become a bit more desirable.

Happy new year to all too,........with the state of the roads and the amount of cameras about these days,........for me it’s about the note rather than speed......the power will be more, the sound will probably be poor AND the reliability will be expensive.......can foresee a few turbo units failing at anything other than cheap......the turbo will never be a solid reliable item unless used in the correct manor and with a world that moves so fast people don’t have the time or better said don’t want to give it the time needed. Time will tell, I always think of the film “demolition man”..........lol........the big V8 being underground. 😂

I don't take much notice of the spec listings on the site since, like you say, there are some strange things going on. Robert, you would be hard pressed to touch the screen considering how far away it is Personally, I like the little mouse thing but I know some don't. It snaps to the nearest location on screen, so it isn't hard to select what you want. You can even adjust the tension on the travel of the mouse if the sensitively isn't to your liking. The only thing I would say it is lacking is a dedicated button to press to select items. The facelift cars have an Enter button on the sides of the wrist rest for this reason. Why it would be handy is that sometimes when I press the mouse down to select something, it moves before it registers the click. A small thing that is easy to work around, but I assume it was recognised as a potential issue hence the button on the newer cars.

Some interesting details on the RC-F front end here as a chap removes front end damage. I find this style of time lapse videos quite entertaining over an early morning brew. I know most of you are likely to be shocked by these images of a Lexus in pieces but some of us enjoy a little spanner time...

I`ll wager that you read the RC manual Pete, before you pushed any buttons you were not sure about! :):):)

RTFM !!!!

I had the door rust bubble on a previous 430 and it was just surface rust. The paint shop that did it said it was really nothing, it just needs catching early. Sorry Messi, it does start from the outside. You just need to run a finger along where the chrome strip is to feel any high spots. Caught early it can be touched in without the need for a professional job. Also keeping the area clean will help, get a gentle brush and keep dirt out of the gap above the chrome.

The one by the gear lever is the shift lock. Normally you'll need to have the engine running to get the lever out of P but if you want to move the lever without firing up the engine (to dismantle something or to put the car in N so you can push it a few inches to get the bins past, for example), press that shift lock button first. The Hold button is probably 'Hill Hold' braking, so that you don't roll back when waiting on inclines.

The point I am trying to make is that if repaired the car could never offer the same level of protection if you were unfortunate enough to be involved in another big accident. 30 years ago a similar accident would probably have involved you being removed in a body bag because cars weren't so well designed for crash safety. The various areas of a modern car bodyshell use special steels to help in a bad accident. I don't believe after a big accident the integrity of the shell can ever be the same.

Although the world are “supposedly” going green for emissions I’m also a “massive” believer that car manufacturers are using this to produce a cheaper option, the cost in the build of a V8 must massively outweigh the smaller unit, the V8 has a bulletproof history with no money to be made from failures unlike the smaller unit. A thought for all 🤔......has anyone ever done a forecast for factory emissions from the “lesser” car parts that are produced for the lifetime of it? think the long term results would be interesting 🙄

Just to add, this is exactly the reason I bought my ISF, we are very close to the point where these cars do not exist anymore, so want to enjoy it whilst we still can!!!

All Lexus cars are designed from America. The way they “bong” when the doors left open, the resolute resistance to fit a diseasal engine etc. The range over there is massive. We don’t get the LX or GX SuV, they get lots more engines in the model like. New ES350 for instance, IS, RC, GS350 with 4wd or rear drive. The new LS can be had with a 10spd 3.0 twin turbo non hybrid there. It’s an amazing range we don’t get to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any update on this? It would be helpful to know what was wrong.

Walk away.

From inside of the car I can only hear those high revs and that extra sound that I thing is coming from the electric motor somewhere. I can't hear at all this clicking sound before engine fire up - maybe it is an oil pump that is rebuilding pressure. Nope I haven't noticed any juddering but my brakes set is just 20k miles old where yours are probably still back from 2013. You could try to give it a good break for few times like 80-10mph to clear them. Eventually to be sure which part of breaking system does it use gearbox selector to break. Put car into "1" then it is only "engine"/rear axle breaking. If juddering will disappears check front discs/pads/callipers. If it still will be there maybe suspension or something with gearbox/diff/axles.

As for noises. Mine is very similar to the 1st one. I have never heard that first bit before starting the engine but I wasn't putting my ears into wheel arches as you 🙂 Engine is starting top at higher revs plus I guess we can hear gearbox electric motors there. Maybe there is some charging self test just after start. I'm not worried about it though. Seat wise maybe you got some dirt on the rails. If it really bothering you take out the seat and lube everything should help.

Yes, I think so...

You can get online manuals here FOC https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/resources/owners-manuals?model=LS 430 &year=2004&type=omms

As Vlad says, I'd have put the vacuum around before photographing the interior. MOT history is excellent, mot'd to 25th May. Not sure why the suspension has been lowered, boy racer ?? Definitely worth a look at the price.

Hi James, These wheels do suit the car! Looks nice. As a seller I would clean the car first, wipe the dust off before taking pictures for an advert, just looks like he/she doesn't care, this is only my opinion.

With winter beginning to knock on the door, and gritters doing the rounds I thought it time to address the alloys on the lexus. We all know the Lexus alloys are not brilliant at resisting oxidisation and rock salt is a real problem to them. So after giving the is250c a hand wash and letting it dry. I have given the alloys a coat of acf50. It's available online and places like halfrauds. It's used in the aviation industry. It's an anti corrosion fluid. A lot of motorcyclists use this to protect the metalwork during the winter months, myself included to protect the metal work from furing up with corrosion. If you decide to use this to protect your alloys over the winter months and a can will last you a good few years please take note. SPRAY ONTO A RAG AND WIPE THE ALLOYS. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES SPRAY IT ONTO THE ALLOYS IF THE ARE FITTED ON THE CAR. YOU WILL CONTAMINATE THE BRAKES AND NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES. IN SHORT KEEP IT AWAY FROM BRAKES, DISKS, CALIPERS. KEEP IT OFF THE TIRES TOO. Your alloys will over the winter months look mucky but no need to worry. If you wash them with a wash n wax, snow foam give them another wipe down with the acf50. Another good place to wipe is the inside of the wheel arches where the metal finishes. I've enclosed a link to the manufacturer. I highly recommend it. It's really good stuff. www.acf-50.co.uk Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

They do have a strange spec on that site for this car, apart from Touch Screen, Lexus has Water Repellent front windows (???), fabric trim (???), 10 Speakers? I though Premier comes with 15 or 17 off with ML, I am not a fun of adverts that are showing false information. About the car, It is a nice example and a great colour combination, I like a lot cream leather on darker body colours!

Viewed....haggled....purchased!!!! Will pick up in new year.

Hi mate, very sorry to see another isf written off. Did you have fully comp insurance? if you did you just need to fight the battle for the true value of the car. looking at the pictures I would say it wouldn’t be worth your while repairing. Back wheel, suspension has taken a good hit. Airbags gone off?Also it would be recorded as a write off and would de value the car. Just my opinion on what I can see. if it was me and I wasn’t fully comp I’d look to break it for parts. At least you walked away from it. all the best, matt

Hi All, I recently crashed my beloved Lexus IS-F and am in need of some advice...The insurance company has advised it's a total loss. What do I do with it? The engine has not been touched and is in good condition. 76,000 miles. It's just this one side that has taken the hit. I have considered options: - repair it privately and sell - Buy an IS250 and swap the engine - Sell as is to a salvage company (for which I will get pennies) - Take it apart and sell the parts Any advice would be much appreciated. I am totally devastated.

Mine did that when fully open when I first bought it or at least when we first had some warm weather. I just closed it slightly from fully open i.e. slid it forward a touch. After a few weeks it no longer happened when fully open but no idea why.