Leaderboard

Duck terrine and Laurent Perrier cuvee rose followed buy guinea fowl washed down with Gevrey Chambertin Louis Latour 2016. Now enjoying a pisco or two...

Nearly Fell Of My Chair Laughing at That One David..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All good points, one thing to consider is the RCF is what I would consider as a ‘grower’. Most people don’t buy an RCF without making a conscious decision to not buy the obvious alternatives. As such, the RCF can sometimes feel a little underwhelming compared to the Audi/BMW/Merc competition - don’t be alarmed if it’s not quite what you expect as the car most certainly gets better once you get to know it. Think of it as a GT rather than sports car and it will all make sense. Don’t get me wrong, when pushed it’s extremely rapid but without turbos you do have to work at it and the gearing will have you at nearly 100mph in 3rd!! Orange is the best colour too! Only thing I wish I had is a sunroof….

My partner cooked an Indian chicken curry on Tuesday (always enough for four meals). So it was the leftovers tonight with naan & rice! Yummy.

Ermm ? Ah ! Beans on toast (al a cart of course)

Yeah - that sounds proper, however Lexus is really not like that, Dealer local to me has agreement with local hand wash, nut sure what they pay per car, but it can't be more than £2... so they literally just take car to scratch wash. And other dealer I used had dedicated washing area, but basically they just hire cleaning agency and literally the same guy finished moping the floor and then goes to wash the cars. When I want to scratch my car I can do it myself, don't need Lexus to include that into the service 😄

I'm into detailing and a work colleague of mine does concours detailing he just spent 3 full days polishing, ceramic coating etc (AFTER a complete washing process and decontamination process using fallout removal products, clay bar etc) on his RX8 in one of your units. He uses paint depth tools to check and utilise the appropriate products for machine polishing, removes all decals, wheels so that he can access calipers insides of alloys, parking sensors on bumpers, masks plastics, rubber and even removed his rear spoiler. Obviously you would not expect Lexus to go that far BUT I can guarantee that if you get any form of main dealer detailing done it will be a half arsed job and no comparison at all to a professional detailer. There is no way at all that Lexus will have the car moved off site to a professional detailer with at least a day of pre preparation work completed before the ceramic coating is applied. The preparatory work is absolutely critical on any car and if not done properly then any wax or ceramic coating applied will be poor and whilst may look ok / good to the untrained eye it will not gleam as it should and above all not last anywhere near as long as it should. There is an intensive amount of labour in doing the job fully and hence why the cost is so high. I remember when an ex had bought a 3 year old Black BMW5 series from a dealer and she paid c£500 for their version of special paint protection back in 2005. I dropped in at the dealer a day before it was due for collection as has a spare Alfa key for the one that we had traded in. The sales guy said their detailer was only half way through out back but I was welcome to take a look. I walked around the back to watch a lad working on it who was very young. Cigarette in one hand, headphones on power washing the car, then sponge into a bucket washing a wheel, then straight up onto wheel arches, paintwork and back to wheels. Sponge in bucket and back out onto paintwork (no two bucket method used so dirt / grit put back onto paint). This is the person who was supposed to be applying the special paint protection. I tapped him on shoulder to stop him as he couldn't hear me and went to see the sales guy. I told him to remove the special protection off my fiancees invoice and I would do the car myself and I got her over to the centre and we took the car as it was and I then dealt with it at home. A few years later went to get my Mazda from its annual service and again a muppet was washing it and more worringly pressure washing really close up all around the convertible roof seals and the rear, the next day I had water inside me nearside rear light cluster, boot and behind the passenger seat. From that day forward I have refused all car dealers offering to wash my car for free as part of the service. I use specific polishes and waxes and don't want cheap products with high PH values reducing or ruining the effectiveness of my work.

I think you are mistaken...it is almost certainly a man made material,albeit with a leather look-alike grain.I would suspect the nearest it has been to a cow is the last time it went past a MacDonalds.

Some of you may know i've owned my 2006 IS250 for a very long time since approximately 2007 and in that time i've done quite a few facelift changes and mods to it. The most recent facelift was my 3IS custom bumper conversion back in 2015. Back in 2021 the chinese made a 4IS style conversion bumper for the 2IS. And after seeing this I was sold on getting one. Specially considering the 4IS isn't available in Europe/UK so it makes the design a lot more unique. I managed to get hold of a bumper from China and through a contact using their business shipping container. Finally managed to get the installation done and thought i'd share photos of my new facelift. I've also upgraded my OEM LED DRL Headlights to the new 4IS inspired design to compliment the front end design. There are quite a few new headlight designs from china for the IS250. The most popular being the version 1 VLAND headlights. I wasn't too keen on them because of square chrome bezels around the projector LED's. Then came out HC motion version which had an animated check/tick LED on top. I wasn't too keen on them either as the check mark didn't quite flow with anything. Then came the latest version which has the check mark full length running all the way down to the kink of the bumper spindle grille corner. I loved the look of this and had to get a pair. Wasn't very easy to source this particular design of headlight as it's too new and most sellers only have the LHD beam pattern version of these headlights. Eventually I found a factory that sold me a pair of RHD beam patterns. Few other things before the pics and video: I imported an OEM lexus short plate holder that comes as standard on the 2021 IS350 in america to mount onto this new bumper. I modified the OEM parking sensor and drilled hole on the bumper to get a flush parking sensor fitment I installed universal side splitters that fit this bumper perfectly. Purchased them for about £20 from eBay and had them painted even though it came in gloss black. I got fitment pretty much perfect. In my opinion it's sitting better than some OEM bumpers i've worked on for the IS250. It required quite a bit of adjustments to get it fitting perfect. And I had to order a specific headlight mounting bracket from the 2009-2010 IS250. This is the only bracket that works with this bumper. I've got some subtle eyebrows colour coded that I will be installing to give the headlights a slimmer look. The last two photos shows an example of the eyebrows temporarily placed on on headlight. I dont always get time to post on here. If you want to stay up-to-date with my work, you can check out my Instagram page where I have all my mods as story highlights. That's where I usually post most of my updates. My instagram link is at the bottom of my signature. Anyway, enough talking. Video highlight below, followed by some photos: Unfortuantely, even thought the bumper was inside a wooden casing, it still suffered a bit of damage where one corner got deformed. I managed to salvage this by re-forming ti with heat and getting the shape identical to the opposite side. Here a few pics of the universal front splitters: Here is a picture of the imported OEM Lexus 2021 IS350 plate holder from America. And here are the new headlights. Headlight video demo can be seen in my video demo above. Crash bar painted black so that I don't see any silver through the gaps Installed OEM foam strip on the corners

Yes, the RCF is a gentleman's express for those of us who have (kind o) grown up. Its great for long cross-continent hauls, but also a hoot on the right windy roads. However, they need to be wide and fairly well surfaced for me to fell secure going for it. I have a 2006 Subaru, which is notably narrower, 4wd and much more expendable if I fancy playing around a bit. I would think the Mk5 Supra would have a similar type of warranty to Lexus. I've got no idea about an M2 these days, but it used to be the case that BMW M cars, Audi RS models and Mercedes AMG versions all used to have frightening warranty costs compared to ours. It comes down to the expected cost of repair, and their desire to make a profit. German reliability being far short of Japanese means they need to pass the extra costs onto the customer.

I shall see mine tomorrow, hopefully 😉

Sounds like it has been played with. Mine is tuned to 7200. I get the shift beep (hasn't been moved), then a little bit of time before the limiter. One thing I would do is ask RR as they should have the VIN of the car, as the hand held flash device is programmed to run on its respective car (when you buy it from them). If you don't have it, you'll need advice on how to either change the tune or reset it (should you wish), without bricking the ECU. You may even have headers and engine mounts!

Getting towards the end of the jobs list on the car now ,replaced the plugs today (DENSO) and carried out an oil and filter change (Valvoline). Noticed the top breather pipe outer cover has been nibbled !…although not recently, ordered a new pipe from Amayama. Gave the sump pan a fresh coat of black gloss 👍🏻

Not sure if this article has been shared, which seems to confirm the end for new Lexus V8 motors in the UK.

Back on topic. Today along The Duoro.

.......but was it a leather chair or plastic?

Fills you with confidence that doesn't it! Managed to damage 2 of them already.😁 Good luck John!

There should be no movement between the tyre and the lower spring perch. If there's a gap, however small, there's no problem with either the tyres or the suspension.

Don't know the place but it sounds nice - the sort of place, in fact, where you'd expect to see at least one Lexus in the car-park!

What he said...except that Red is obviously the best colour. More seriously, this forum is a mine of useful information, tips, support, and the occasional bit of good-natured *****-taking. I don't know if other brands have the same.

This was my view…. but on my old car I eventually ended up with about 20 small chips (I used to drive 20k+ miles a year) and decided it was probably time to replace it… (never was a MOT failure or advisory though).

I'm wondering if by any chance the main ECU has reverse polarity protection. I was doing a bit of bench programming once on an aftermarket ECU using a 12V car battery as a power supply. I inadvertently got the leads crossed and BAM !!! Instant smoke as the insulation on my skinny test leads melted. On investigation it turned out that there was a sacrificial diode inside the box connected across the power supply. I had that replaced and the ECU was unharmed. Might be worth opening the ECU or at least testing it to see if it has a power supply to ground short circuit. I'd guess that reversed polarity in cars is a known hazard and the manufacturers might have provided some protection. Cheers...

I've had two replacement screens in my IS 300h - one was Pilkington and the other Fuyao. Both were marked up as acoustic glass and other then the name on the glass I couldn't see or hear any difference between OEM and either of these. Both were fitted by Autoglass - I took the car to their centre to be done as it was within walking distance of where I live. I did notice after the last one was fitted that the passenger windscreen wiper was in a higher park position than before and so I removed and repositioned the wiper arm myself. May be worth taking a photo of where your wipers park now so you know they are put back in the same place. The fitter is right in that windscreens are cracked regularly, especially on today's potholed roads throwing up more stones. It's also one of those "probability" issues - for example on a previous car I had gone for many years with no problems and then had three replacement windscreens in nearly as many weeks...! On my IS 300h, I've had the current Fuyao windscreen in for a few years now but in the first year after it was fitted picked up two small bullseye marks near the rear view mirror. Fortunately these have got no worse and I've received no more (large) stone chips and none are a MoT failure. I don't see much sense in doing anything about stone chips as I know one day something will hit the windscreen necessitating another replacement.

An AutoGlass guy came out to repair it. He was quite friendly and we were chatting as he fixed it. He gave me a bit more faith in the brand / its work. He also confirmed as my car doesn't have the ADAS stuff that my old Avensis had, even a replacement wouldn't mean I need to take it to their centre - which is a plus. He told me what to look out for in terms of a lousy job - not removing the wipers, the scuttle trim etc which he reckons is a corner they'd never cut. He also basically said that because of their guarantee, if they were fitting 'crap' glass, it would only end up accumulating as a cost to them in terms of constantly replacing and re-doing the jobs so he thinks that their part quality is going to be high quality. He said he understood my want to keep the car 100% manufacturer parts, even at my own expense, as the stuff procured by the car makers is always the highest quality / most stringently quality controlled panels produced. Then, the rest will go to the various aftermarket brands. To me, it sounded like how computer processors are made, where the slightly more perfectly formed chips can perform better than the outer ones, though the outer ones still are fine, just becoming the more mid-spec ones. But he gave me the thought that, even if I paid out of pocket today for a Lexus windscreen and had it fitted perfectly, there is quite a high chance (certainly no guarantee or way to 'avoid') another chip or crack happening the next day, the next week... even say, the next year. And with windscreens that is incredibly common, hence why it's such a well thought out / cheap excess (if not free to repair) on every insurance policy these days. So even if I could pay more, I could end up being out of pocket more often than I'd like. It's not really like a premium tyre, which I'm sure can be reinforced and less likely to puncture by design, and then repaired multiple times before ever truly 'losing' that investment completely. Whereas even a good quality glass panel is as susceptible to a chip or crack caused by driving in the real world as such. So basically.... if I ever need a replacement. I'll probably not be so annoyed at Autoglass. And unlike in the past this guy proved to me that they're not all condescending know-it-all's that do a crap job and assert that their panels are 'better' than OEM. He was pretty rational and fair about it, and I believe what he said. Essentially, if I'm not happy with the fit, noise qualities, any condensation or even damage to the side trim (only on my Lexus not on previous cars I had) he said they'll cover it, do it again etc. If one aftermarket panel truly is crap, and causes issues, complaining (he said) is likely to just result in them doing it again. Apparently with the size and volume of work and the costs they've got it down to, they don't have to get too stingy with repairs or further replacements. I hope that is something I could, in theory, depend on should I have issues. The next time it chips, I think it will be a replacement in any case. It was a big U-turn in my thinking, and a positive one. On top of that, glad to hear that you guys all had good experiences for the most part too.

Just about sums everything up, I would say the £180 road tax this year that the 2017 cars enjoy does make me smile and one of the main reasons I keep mine. I have always banged on about how the later cars fitted with AVS do give you the option of a more comfortable ride but I understand that the very excellent Tein EDFC system is available for the RCF now. And I expect it is probably better than the AVS system fitted, a word of caution dealers always seem to state (incorrectly) that their cars has AVS only post 2017 cars have it. Do a quick check under the bonnet there should be a wire coming out of the top of each suspension strut. It's a car that grows on you.

If it is rubbing you may have a fault with the suspension rather than incorrect size tyres.

Do not believe the old reviews of the RZ450e which were conducted on prototype/pre-production vehicles. Am told Lexus updated the software recently. Am getting over 4 m/kWh! https://www.rzforums.com/threads/amazing-efficiency-and-range.235/post-849

Salad 🙄🙄 with salmon 😀

We enjoyed a Hairy bikers Chilli con carne with a bottle of Chilean Shiraz after some Punk IPA to celebrate the purchase of a new motorbike

Saw my first LBX on the road last Saturday. Looks good in white. Actually knew the driver so sent her a message and replied that "she loves the car".

thanks Max, unfortunately my budget is lower, hoping to spend under 12k, thanks tho

Depending on how much you're looking to get out of it, I would seriously consider getting the scrape fixed, even if it's a few hundred quid to repair. And a new armrest is going to be under £100 surely. Check eBay. You're up against the scrape and the fact that private sales over £10k are generally difficult as people would need finance.. Might be worth considering fixing it and checking what Motorway, WBAC and Arnold Clark offer if you were to get rid that way.

Like Ken R, I too got one that was Lexus stock , just about to land in UK. Not being as picky as Ken R 😁😁, I was able to get a new NX that matched my needs (I had to forego a sunroof - not an essential to me - but got everything else I wanted)

Get a 2017 if you can for the cheaper road tax. When you test drive it they can feel a bit sluggish on first impression. Make sure you go into the full Sport S+ (turn mode dial right twice), knock the shifter into manual mode and use the paddles. Check it has a full service history, if it's a Lexus Approved Used it should.

Make sure the fuel pump recall work has been done - unlikely it hasn’t.

Look for leaking shock and check the brake discs/pads for wear as they are expensive to replace. Otherwise just check normal things - accident damage, even tyre wear, drives and brakes straight, gearbox shifts correctly through all gears etc. If it has a Lexus dealer service within the last 12 months you have Relax warranty coverage which will cover the major mechanical components.

Has to be the simplest software fix, but it's ridiculous to be this far out!

Ha ha you are the same as me.... I will never ever let any dealer wash my car following a service and they are always surprised that I refuse. I used to visit a local Aston Martin, Bentley and Lamborghini dealership to collect parts for one of my customers. That is the only place I have ever witnessed a really high standard of car cleaning. I had a chat with the two people who were working on a Bentley that had just been serviced, they had an undercover dedicated area, with a unit attached. They had so much equipment available like air dryers, blowers, paint depth checking tools they even used deionized water; They wore gloves and were clearly meticulous. They told me that before they worked on anyone's car they requested to know what work had been done on it previously and ideally spoke directly with that detailer concerned. They then used product that had no negative effect on the product that was applied on the car. There were two staff working at a time all day, 6 days per week. Obviously the cost was built / hidden in the no doubt exorbitant servicing or repair work bill but at least they were extremely professional.

You're best off looking on eBay for a mirror in your colour Oz. As your car is 2007, you shouldn't have issues finding the right one. It's only the facelift cars with indicators on the mirrors that a bit harder to come by.

Can't agree sorry! If you could bottle the smell of a new car you would make a fortune!😁

I'd suggest putting the old ones back at least temporarily to see if that clears the codes, if so that will then confirm there is an issue with the new headlights.

Same problem: usually filling around 35 l when showing almost 0 km range. I have pushed the odds - 80 km on an "empty" tank and the result was 42,93 liters added. Theoretically, another, at least, 150 km, which brings us to min. 230 km range beyond "zero". Yesterday I asked the dealer about this and the answer was that this is a very known issue, but nothing to be done. This, together with some other evasive answers regarding the high level of the oil in the Carter and the very strange behavior of the multimedia system and the app drove me to the conclusion that the Europeans have no clue about what the Japaneses are doing with these cars. And I say this from the perspective of a guy who had asked German, Belgian and Romanian mechanics about the same things, receiving vague and partially different answers. But I will keep asking, who knows... 🙂🤔

This question really belongs in detailing section as there is not RC specific advice. Sonic Titanium is one of the easiest colours to clean, generally grey cars don't show dirt and scratches as much and metallic paints hide them even better (In this case almost pearlescent), so it should not be difficult to keep the car looking great. That said - I much appreciate your desire to take good care of your car, that is definitely good attitude to have, but I just want to warn you here. You can easily damage your car more than needed when detailing/cleaning if you do it wrong, it is very easy to cause so called "love marks". So the answer - unless you really want to dive deep into detailing, just regularly washing your car will be 90% as good as it gets. So to start with, you need to ask yourself a question - how much you really want to take care of it? You can certainly wash car yourself, but I can assure you that 80% of the owners would make more damage washing their car themselves than they would by just taking it to regular automatic or hand wash. In other words - for 80% of owners just taking the car to car wash every 2-4 weeks will be sufficient and the car will look good after 5 years of ownership. Will it have scratches - yes, washing = scratching, but that is just inevitable. If you really want to beat say handwash in terms of minimising scratches to the paint, then you need quite a lot of knowledge and experience. I would even say RC is probably wrong car to practice on... because it has a lot of small and trickly details, shapes and Lexus paint in general is very soft (so easy to scratch). Next question - do you own anything for washing at the moment e.g. pressure washer? How much you looking to invest int into the tools? and what you looking to achieve? Because my basic set-up would look something like this: Pressure washer, snow foam lance would be nice 2 buckets with grit guard 50 general purpose MF cloths 5 thick drying MF cloths 5 Window MF cloths 5 car wash mitts ideally MF or soft wool 3 wheel woollies 1 tyre brush Set of detailing brushes (usually like 6 in the set) 2 pressure sprayers Shampoo concentrate (Bilt Hamber has great concentrate, but others are aslo good Gyeon, Gtechniq, Koch Chemie etc.) 5L of APC, that is chemical that you can use basically for everything just adjust the concentration so just buy bulk and keep it (again Bilt Hamber Surfex HD or Koch Chemie GS are two of my favourites) Some protection - I would advise ceramic spray nowadays, unless you want to go into full ceramic, but that is next level-up (even something like Autoglym Rapid Ceramic would be fine for this, generally I avoid Autoglym and TrutleWax, but current generation ceramic sprays are really good) Glass cleaner (I use Koch Chemie spray, but Sonax is also good) Specialty items which you may need from time to time: bug remover (explanation in the name) glue and tar remover (explanation in the name) "bleeding" fall out spray (maybe useful twice a year to move have brake dust that APC can't remove) rust inhibitor (good product to prevent rusting, especially on brake callipers, but also suspension, requires application once every 3 years, but can be done annually) I get my detailing supplies mostly from https://www.in2detailing.co.uk (you can also use discount code DW10), but sometimes I find better price in Amazon, eBay, sometimes directly from Gyeon, Gtechniq or Dodo Juice (i2D does not sell their products). My cleaning routine would look something like this - pressure wash wheels and lose dirt from body if needed > spray wheels with APC using pressure sprayer > scrub wheels with woollies and tyre with brush > spray car with foam > spray with APC and agitate around badges and grilles with detailing brush of appropriate size > pressure wash the car again > then onto contact wash with 2 buckets (1 for shampoo and 1 for rinsing), dunk mitt into rinsing bucket, rinse well, dunk it into shampoo bucket and wash the car from the roof down. I like to use at least 3 mitts for this (1 for upper half, 1 for lower half, 1 around arches, bottom of the sills, bumpers etc) > pressure wash for third time > wait for few minutes for majority of water to run down spray panel with ceramic spray (most of them are formulated as drying aids and water spot removers), wipe with thick drying MF cloth then buff with MF cloth, go top to bottom and around the car doing panel by panel > clean the wheels same way with dedicated MF cloth for wheels Autoglym ceramic spray can be used on tyres, but you can also buy dedicated tyre dressing (something like Gtechniq Trim & Tyres, or Gyeon)> finally clean windows and mirrors inside and out. I would probably start with interior, but you have not asked about it and it requires separate explanation. As you can see - quite a few steps involved, but I would argue if you not doing at least that, then it is not worth even starting to wash car yourself. I guess the it is possible to buy just the ceramic spray (detailing spray) and after taking your car to hand wash finish some spots that they miss yourself, but then again you basically not washing your car, just finishing the details. Could it be done without pressure washer - yes, technically you can do it all with just 2 buckets, but then I reckon you will scratch car more than hand wash. When else... if anything that touches paint falls on ground, it goes to the bin, be it 80p MF cloth or £10 drying cloth or wash mitt, if you try to use it again you will scratch the paint all over. I tend to use MF cloths few times and the rotate them down (top half of the car first, then bottom of the car, then wheels and then maybe I keep it around just as a rag). Never wash car in direct sunlight (water spotting, dried chemicals etc. are not good).

Adding in another photo… Starbucks this time

I've received that recommendation many, many times over the years, for having the system constantly active maintains and lubricates the system seals most effectively.

Thanx Ollie! I followed your instructions and I've also now adaptive cruise control! Awesome! Couple of details from my installation: 1. I did not have the connector for the radar, so I had to buy it. The part number for the housing is 90980-12292 and the terminals 82998-24250. 2. Part number for the terminals in the other end of the wire: 82998-12690 3. I used 0.75mm2 wire which was too thick for the terminals. Maybe 0.5mm2 wire would be better... 4. to set the L/C Flag to Yes, I had to first execute the Initialization for the Laser Cruise using TechStream and then follow the sequence mentioned above. 5. I made a radar reflector from a thin (1mm) aluminium sheet (and tested the beam adjustment using TechStream): BR. Sami

PART 4: Software and test run I turned on the car, switched cruise control on and once again was greeted by ‘RADAR READY’ message. This appears to be the limit of functionality before enabling the ‘L/C Option Flag’. Therefore, I fired up Techstream and loaded the live data section of the radar cruise control module. L/C flag was still set to NO. I now attempted to follow the procedure detailed above to set the laser cruise flag. Basically, ignition on, cruise master on, foot on brake and then flick the cruise stick up to ‘res’ and release 3 times within 3 seconds. Alas, nothing happened. Disheartened, I tried again, and again, and again, restarting the car a few times in the process. I was about to give up, but after a bout of ‘button bashing’ I was surprised to hear several rapid buzzer tones from the dash and the below appearing on the screen: Referring to the laptop screen, Techstream now showed the L/C option flag had changed to YES! I’m not entirely sure what I did differently to make it work, but I would suggest persevering, it should work eventually! After this, I was able to run the ‘initialise’ utility in Techstream, which completed successfully. Then I selected the beam axis adjustment utility: Low and behold, the sensor appears to be detecting something (it’s roughly 6m from my garage). I held a piece of tin foil against the Lexus badge to check if this was just some coincidence and electrical noise, but low and behold, the range went to zero with tin foil applied. Obviously the point of this program is to calibrate the aiming of the sensor, using a Special Service Tool from Toyota which is essentially a small pyramid shaped radar reflector on a stand, and following a procedure involving using plumb lines and measuring tapes to establish the centreline of the vehicle. Once the reflector is positioned correctly the aim is to use 3 adjustment screws on the sensor bracket to aim the sensor as described, using Techstream as a sort of aiming scope. I do intend to come up with some DIY reflector, but for now I can see it is pointing in roughly the correct direction and see no reason why it can’t be tested. An additional point is the front Lexus emblem. The ‘radar compatible’ one seems to be pretty hard to find and new it is a ridiculous price. After comparing part numbers across many sites however, I think my car may already be compatible. So, I intend to leave the badge for now and see if it works regardless. Test Drive After restarting the car, I switched CC master switch on and tested all the buttons. When I pull the distance control flap on the RH side of the steering wheel a little icon of a car appears with 1,2 or 3 lines ahead of it, signifying the set following distance. This flap simply cycles through these short, medium and long distances. When the cruise stalk is pushed away from the driver and held for a couple of second the radar cruise is disabled and ‘NORM’ displayed instead of ‘RADAR READY’. Now the system simply acts like a normal cruise control, with one small difference from before, the set speed is displayed in top right of the display. Handy. I set off on the test drive on a quiet road, enabled the system and accelerated past 25mph.. No alarms unlike last time! I set the speed and it worked as expected. I was a little concerned that the radar might be so far out of alignment that it might pick up on parked cars or other objects and apply the brakes, but I had no such problems. Feeling more confident, I ventured onto a busier road and found a slower car to approach. Setting the cruise behind the other car, I increased the set speed up to a greater speed, but my car simply stayed following the car in front! IT WORKS!!! Driving around for a good while the system performed flawlessly, accelerating and decelerating as required to maintain the set gap to vehicle in front. Changing distance setpoint worked as expected, and this is not a set distance, but instead proportional to speed. The system even applies the brakes automatically if necessary (although, as stated in the manual, not full power breaking, maybe 25% or so) If deceleration required is greater than what the system can provide a warning buzzer sounds. Also, if you decelerate below approx. 25mph the system disengages, so you can’t use this in stop/start traffic like more modern systems. I thought I might experience some warnings due to not fitting components of the pre-crash system, but so far nothing has popped up, even when the car warns of collision due to higher approach speed. I think this may be due to me choosing radar sensor and Distance Control ECU described as "PRECRASH SYSTEM-WITHOUT(DRIVER ASSIST BRAKE)". But then again, perhaps the newer part numbers would also work? So, in conclusion, this mod is working great right now. I’m not sure I even need to bother building a calibration rig as I’ve not experienced any loss of tracking etc yet. We shall see. I'm happy to have unlocked this functionality which has effectively been lying dormant since the car was built in 2008. Now I'm sure it's a pretty rare beast, being a Sport with the Active Stabiliser System and the Dynamic Cruise! Thanks for reading.

I read that AUTO LOCKING was discontinued after Gen 3. You have Gen 4 I believe?

West field motors also sorted out the annoying Faulty tire pressure sensor Drivers rear tire that was stuck on the dashboard. my next goal is to do a £520 full service with Lexus. Bought my car without a car jack so need a car jack. I need to find out what the jack points look like under the car and where’s the correct place to jack up for future reference. Lexus have quoted me a three year service plan of £189 deposit and £39 per month payments after that which seems reasonable.

Hi. I'm sorry we were unable to offer you a competitive insurance quotation. Regards, Dan.