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Well it's nearly here and I'm looking forward to doing some B road blasting, fortunately where I live if I turn right at the bottom of the road there are miles and miles of Yaris GR roads. Plan to keep it stock for a while then it will be going up to Lichfield for a re-map, the nitro suspension conversion and an Acropovic exhaust. Everything you read about them in the revues is true.

Took delivery of my new Ux yesterday, traded in my 21 plate

Todays figures are 47.5 and 46.5 - continuing the slow but steady increase would like to go back to the old app. When I try to check on charge progress am still getting ERROR try again later, only clears after I get the Charging Complete notification

Hello All, I am writing this thread to help fellow future Lexus owners. There is an IS250 new buyers thread, but can't see one for IS220D. I have had the joys(not) of owning a 220D. I thought of writing this thread for new potential buyers of this car. If there was a thread for IS220D before going to test drive my old IS220D, I wouldn't have never got it, and would have just went for IS250 instead LOL! 🙂 PROS : * Very good spec for the year of the car - I have had the Sport model, which came with auto lights + wipers, memory seats, fully electric seats with lumbar support also. It also had a 9 mode sunroof, but I believe that was an added extra option. Very good sound quality (I believe it's the Mark Levinson head unit). Auto dimming rear view mirror + auto dimming side view mirrors which tilt down when reversing. Keyless entry and start + front and rear parking sensors. * Much better drive comfort than it's competitors - Especially for longer journeys, drive is very comfy and the car is very practical. CONS: * High Tax Costs - The tax band for this car is quite high, as it comes around £330 a year. * High Fuel Costs - The reported figures are 35mpg/City and 52mpg/Motorway for the non sport models and 29mpg/City 45mpg/Motorway. However, from my experience and Fuelly average checks, it will be hard to get above 35/mpg on a motorway run, and more than 25mpg in city. If you give the car a good run, you will be seeing around 20mpg in city, and 27mpg on motorways. * Gearbox Is Awful - On the Non Sport models, you will find yourself not being able to shift into 6th gear on motorways, as the RPM's are too low driving at 70-75mpg. On the Sport model, the gears are too short, and the 1st and 6th gears are useless. The gearbox stick is heavy and chunky, and quite uncomfortable to shift gears. There is a quite loud crunch when changing into 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. * The Engine Generally Feels Underpowered - This is obviously a large car, and made for comfort, not speed. However the engine feels underpowered, when taking off as the turbo starts to kick in at 2k RPM's. In first gear, the acceleration is slow and sluggish. * The Engine Has Lots Of Common Faults - It has the Toyota D4D engine, that is being used in Toyota Avensis. The injectors do go bad quite often, and head gaskets go bad on them very often as well. The EGR valves are also known to get very clogged easily, and need regular cleaning (Easy job, if you don't mind getting your hands dirty). WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR ON THE TEST DRIVE BEFORE TEST DRIVE * Head Gasket Leak - When engine is cold , pop the bonnet and unscrew the oil cap. The oil cap should be nice and clean, with no frothy contents on it and milky like residue. Also, check the coolant level and colour of it, it should be topped to max and it should be nice pink colour. * Fuel Injectors Condition - Take the engine cover off, and start the engine. Inspect the engine near injectors and look out for any leaks. Put your ear close to each injector and listen out for any rattling or knocking sounds. If it has any fuel leaks, or knocking sounds, steer away! It will be very pricey! *Auto Lights/Wipers - Turn the wipers and lights stalk to 'Auto' setting. There is a sensor on the windscreen, in the same position where the rear view mirror sits. Cover it with your hands, and have someone else inspect the lights - they should turn on. Take a bottle of water with you, and throw the water on the windscreen, it should wipe it off. *Seats/Radio/Air Con/Sun Roof - Check that the seat can be moved front/back, back of seat can be moved fron/back, seat height can be adjusted. If the car has memory function, put the car in neutral, start the car, put the hand brake on and hold the 'Set' button and press 1,2 and 3. There should be a beep indicating the position was set. Check that the radio works. Also check that the aircon blows hot/cold air and that the sun roof opens if there is one fitted in the car. *Check MPG - Check the AVG MPG and Tank MPG indicated on the computer. Reset it, by holding the 'Disp' button on the AVG MPG button. Go for an extended test drive, and check the MPG displayed. It usually overstates about 1/2 mpg depending on tyres etc, so bare that in mind. DURING TEST DRIVE/AFTER TEST DRIVE * Brake Callipers - Walk around each side of the car and check for heat coming from brakes. Each pair of wheels should be the same heat, if one is hotter than other, callipers are seized and will require rebuilding/replacing which is quite expensive. Another obvious tell tale sign is the car pulling to a side. * Brakes - Check that the brakes are not spongy, and brake hard enough. * Oil filter cap seized - The cap, where the oil filter screws into may be overtightened and impossible to get out. Make sure to ask, if it has been changed and if you are buying from dealer, ask them to check it before sale. Mine was screwed on solid, and had to get a new oil filter housing, which took a very long time to find second hand, as breakers don't sell them separate, they sell them whole on the engine block. I have scrapped the car before fitting it on, so still got mine if anyone is after one! * Leaking shocks - Check if you can see any leakage coming from shock absorbers, expensive replacements but not a real issue - some owners have reported replacing them and hard to find. * Exhaust Smoke - As any diesel, do a hard acceleration while checking your rear view mirror - there should be no clouds of smoke left behind. If you can, have someone watch you while accelerating past them for any smoke - lots of smoke could mean lots of expensive fixes. * Clutch - Make sure that the clutch is not rattling or vibrating, when depressed. The biting point shouldn't be too low or too high, and there shouldn't be any fishy smells in the cabin. * Exhaust - Check that after test drive, there is no exhaust smell in the cabin or outside the car. This could indicate bad cat, and exhaust replacement is quite expensive for this and the IS250 model. * Rust - Check for general health on wheel arches and underneath the car. It shouldn't be excessively rusty. Hope this helps prospective buyers! My opinion is, that there is a reason on why these are cheaper than the IS250. I have had mine for a while, and there was nothing but issues. Bad MPG, high road tax, rear callipers were seized, front calliper was seized, there was an exhaust issue and more. I have ended up trading mine in for IS250, and the V6 petrol version is better on MPG, than the IS220D sport model :O. No DPF, no EGR systems to be blocked. If you want the Lexus, just go for an IS250, as it is much more better running costs wise to IS220D, and much more reliable. If you really, really want a diesel, switch to an Audi A5, BMW 520D or Mercedes E Class, do not go for IS220D, unless it has had new injectors, head gasket replaced, and DPF is clean. But let's be honest, if someone invested that much money in it, they will not be selling it LOL! 😄 HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE LOOKING TO BUY AN IS220D.

Maybe far too basic but get mudflaps i got the ones from aliexpress for £15 and fitted them myself... best thing ever given how much it rains in the UK

Tonight's recharge predicting 56.2/54.5 which is a new high for "non aircon" and slightly down for "without aircon".

Refuelled for the 10th time today since taking delivery in March 22 and covering over 12500 miles. Overall consumption since the last fill is working out at 73.3mpg resulting from fuel purchased and the cost of electrical recharges converted to the current cost of E10 petrol. The overall consumption since taking delivery and using the above method of calculation is 63.94mpg. With credit to Ken R for the wording. My last fill up was more than 2700 miles ago on 29 April.

I'm more than pleased with my SC430 from RW. In fact I have found a bonus while going through the paperwork. I thought the cam belt would need doing in the next 18 months as it was replaced back in 2015 at around 97,000 miles but I found an invoice for a cambelt change at 119,000 miles in 2019 which he has confirmed. Some lots more miles or time to go before I need to worry about it again. Still drives great with no warning lights.

It's a good point, plus will need to accommodate 2-3 times the volumes of cars, which at peak times can be pretty congested already. I would only ever fill up with £10 max at a motorway service station anyway given their extortionate fuel prices.

As someone who worked for Liqui Moly, I can truthfully say that additives make a big difference, BUT only if they are used as a preventative measure. People often turn to additives when it's too late and expect them to do miracles. This applies to all cars, diesel and petrol.

Morning All Sorry I have only just got around to update , have had plenty to do with this nice weather. So I got a Denso Sensor from Autodoc DOX-0238 DENSO Direct Fit Lambda Sensor Right, for pre-catalytic converter, M18x1.5, Regulating Probe, Heated, Finger probe, Lambda Sensor ▷ AUTODOC price and review Cost in total £77.63 I booked into my local garage I have used for the past twenty years , they have always been very good . I removed the under trays and Matt fitted the sensor in less than a half an hour on the lift and charged me £35 which I thought was brilliant . I cleared the code with my scanner and it has been running fine again since . So all in £113. Cleaned up all the undertray and fixings and gave them a coat of gloss black and put it all back together but had four fixings over so will have to look where I have missed when it is up on the ramp again for MOT this next week. Thanks oldjoe 90 , you must be about my age remembering Joe 90, I will have a look at opie oils website . I did see an offer on GSF car parts which was cheaper than Autodoc but no stock , funny how they have marvelous offers on things you can't buy aye. Anyway all well again for now. Have a couple of things to look into on the RX now always something to fix. Neilj

The Alarm is still working properly after replacing the sensor.

As you may have seen in previous posts, I made a jump to a different colour interior this time with the tan and so far love it. With no regrets. It lifts the cabin and changes the whole feel compared to my previous Mesa with black. I really would like the F sport blue (like yours Mincey) with the red trim, the so called Pepsi spec on other brands, but have to think of budgets. Aren’t we ES owners lucky that we even have the options of interior colour available at no extra cost

We are tracking each other very closely on stats! Old app/new app? What am I missing. I’m just using Lexus Link and it seems to work fine with just the odd glitch, but ok. I’m not seeing any errors.

Note to self - "don't use honey scented windscreen wash again"!

For a car thats 6 years and 60k miles, i think the previous owners have kept it in superb shape, it looks new, there is no wear pretty much anywhere on the car , no scratches other than on the rims. Rim scratches were mostly me not being able to park.

I know, I had to check the figures 2 or 3 times! I think it's because the vast majority of my journeys are round trips of less than 30 miles. There are only 2 instances where I've done 500 miles round trips and I don't think any others have been over 100 miles. Maybe I should have gone full electric...................No, I like the flexibility.

Ants in the washer jets!! Well, that’s not something you come across every day. Presumably they somehow came in through the bottle end; or a ruptured pipe or connector. I can’t imagine even one very ambitious ant - let alone a gang - venturing through the hole of a spray jet! All the best with the MOT. 👍

Looks good in red. Hopefully you'll manage to do more miles in it than you do in your RCF!

I've just bought a GR in flame red, as you say sublime, hand made at the LFA part of the factory.

My app is now showing "In transit" Derbyshire

Such memories Len of Barry Cryer, Humph, Willie Rushton not forgetting the News Quiz from those days 😎, on YT you can find the 1993-2007 all of Samantha's contributions 👍

Ed this is EXACTLY what is happening in Ambridge!

They must have added it to the fuel tank.

They're on eBay - £40.

They are pressure tubes only fitted to the latest Fs with the Gasoline Particulate Filter (GPF) (MY18 onwards). They connect to the Differential Pressure Sensor which measures pressure in the exhaust compared to outside air - if high then the GPFs are clogged and will produce an error. If you are fitting these to a vehicle without GPFs you would need to find a way to block them.

I probably cleaned my first car - properly I mean, not as a young child helping out - in the late 1970s. The difference in products and speed of application is astonishing - even in the last decade since I last showed my MINI(s) things have progressed at pace. AutoGlym SRP used to be the ‘go to’ product for most people, but in recent years with ceramic coatings and ‘quick detailing’ products I can’t see the point of a wax, at least not on a modern paint finish. Bear in mind that’s coming from somebody who used to spend a small fortune* on Swissvax products, and then spent hours applying them! * as an aside, if anybody is interested in how to obtain a small fortune, I can help. Start with a big fortune and invest poorly. I digress… Accepting that my current car has a professionally applied GTechniq ceramic coating, as did my last one, I can’t see why anybody would need anything other than a good ‘QD’ such as c2v3 (I’ve got a few similar in my arsenal, including Angelwax Enigma, CarPro Reload, Alien Magic Boss etc.). All have a degree of protection these days and, having used them on cars with little or no protection or care (my family aren’t all as careful with their vehicles as I am!) the results are excellent. Clearly there is a degree of decontamination required - CarPro TRIX does the job for me - and the results aren’t perfect, but good enough to draw amazed and appreciative responses from most bystanders. All cars will have some swirls. Washing as carefully as possible to minimise these, and being as gentle as possible with the paintwork is the way to go imho. Prevention is better than cure. Finally; - no, I’m Spartacus - wine. Don’t forget the wine… - no, no, no, no…no women here… - JEHOVAH!

I’ve heard it called that as well. Also white with a red interior I’m pretty sure I read somewhere was known as the ‘Moby D i c k’ spec.

Thought they were changed at 60k miles ?

👍...and it's a very good colour for hiding the dirt as well 😎

Diluted APC with a cloth followed by a leather / vinyl sealant you honestly do not need to do it excessively. I would aim for once every 6 months or once a year if the car gets light use. Ive had instances using leather cleaners where they remove some dye from the surface on lexus leather / vinyl so I stick to APC now which seems to be much more friendly.

Introducing my low tech solution. 39kgs of muscle, teeth and claws that does not tolerate strangers, unless of course I tell him to. KIng.mp4

I’ve finished the job…applied paint. I had another look at Lanogard and see that it has to be applied annually. So I’m happy with my choice. Kurust is very good and a good brush into and onto areas difficult to brush that do have heavy rust scale works very well. The suspension bars have the most rust with everything else in good shape.

I could not agree more Ron. The poor reliabilty and finish would put me off. I do not need to race about, and to be frank it is very difficult on our busy roads. Wafting along at legal speeds in a 4 litre V8 is an experience you should have before they become extinct! I have nothing against electric cars - just any car that is poorly made and unreliable. hence my choice of Lexus/Toyota/Mitsubishi (in the past)

I had a Model S P100D. 0-60 in 2.3 to 2.5 seconds depending on who tested it. Nippy. It literally is organ-rearranging doing a launch from standstill. I never tried Ludicrous mode where it preheats the battery for better acceleration - there was no point. Any slip road access into any traffic, any overtake, it'd do it. Stop reading here if you enjoy Lexus's Relax concept. Had it two years from two years old, covered 20,000 miles and it had (from memory) new front CV joints (grinding noises on power), new headlight (sidelight failed - £1200 part!), air con/battery cooling pump (mine was always the noisiest car at the superchargers - new one was the same), drivers door handle, another set of front CV joints plus driveshafts plus bearings (still didn't fix the noise on full power), UV treatment for yellowing screen edges (party fixed), clips for the undertrays kept breaking, and many many software updates which are very clever and done over the air... but when you jump into your car and find they've moved the heating controls overnight it can be a little disconcerting. Every time it was in at Tesla I asked how much it'd be if it was out of warranty for the work they did - it was north of £11,000-worth of repairs when I sold it a few months before the 4 year warranty ran out. I like my Lexus. And my Kia.

Wish I hadn’t mentioned Romans now. Marvellous response from the “forum” Slave Lexius sends his regards to all.

Have not heard it go off when parked for the last 2 days and no phone calls from the neighbours (asked them to ring me) so looks like it's a fix? I don't know if you can get these sensors new from Toyota/Lexus but got mine tested and used from eBay. Try and get one from the lowest mileage car that you can. Mine has done over 80,000 miles less than the original one in my car so in theory it's had less use. Also in location the sensor just sits loose on a metal cradle with some foam padding so I have added some extra foam to prevent movement when going over bumps.

I thought it was a Liberace Limited Edition and you were given a Mink Coat so you could drive it with suitable camouflage

With that dazzle camouflage, you will be safe from a torpedo attack!

I know I said I like to stand out from the crowd a little bit , but I do have limits LEXUS SC sc 430 automatic Used - the parking (theparking-cars.co.uk)

That's correct, it might need the reset procedure after the battery has been disconnected but it relates to the one-touch auto feature. Operate the windows up and down a couple of times and hold the switch up for an extra second on each window and that should restore it. Similar thing with resetting the memory seat function. All the way back and fore with the seat and back rest switches and that should restore the memory function.

I know in my Mk3 Ls400 the solution was to a) keep metallic bits and bobs out of the centre armrest console and b) to turn the alarm button to zero/ right down when you get to it underneath the centre console as mentioned with access afore There was no need for me to buy a new sensor ...... just to wind it down ! Malc

I normally purchase Denso aftermarket/OEM sensors rather than a Lexus boxed one. Depending on the vehicle they have either direct replacements with the correct lead length and connector or generic ones. The benefit to a generic one where you have to cut the wiring and solder means you can do it under the car and therefore don't need to remove carpets - you just need to make sure you make everything watertight. Anyway, as stated by Bob, if you have a problem with bank x sensor 1 then it is pre-cat and in the engine bay on the manifold/downpipe so no need for seats and carpets to be removed.

Thanks Bob Have re read your reply and the sensor bank 2 sensor one is pre cat so the connector is accessible although the sensor is a .....to get to above rack. The videos I have watched were not clear about which sensor they were changing and must have been talking about the post cat sensors. Whilst the weather is good I might have a crawl under the car to locate the sensor. The illustration is always very helpful, I should know as I used to draw them up myself for other companies. Oh and so the Denso one it is then Bob I have looked them up and they are a good price compared to the £221 Lexus quote. Thanks again Neilj

I would expect the SC to be similar to the GS430 series II, with the rear sensor connectors under the carpets in the footwells. You can move the seats back which gives enough room. However if the SC is more like the RX300 then, yes the seat has to come out and whether you choose to cut the carpet or remove lots of trim to fold the carpet back is a decision to make - people cut the carpet for speed and unnoticeable under the seat.

IMPORTANT UPDATE! Another related problem: So last night the folding roof was down - but would not close. So I looked in the handbook and read the emergency manual roof closing pages. I got to stage 4 but the remaining looked like heavy going so went inside for a cup of tea and to look online. I found an American forum thread suggesting a faulty above windscreen (passenger or driver side) pin locate sensor/switch. So I looked into the passenger side roof pin location point and immediately saw the black plastic pin cover stuck inside! This was holding the switch below in the "closed position" so the open roof would not close - I removed it and the roof then worked properly. What had happened was the glue from the worn away Gorilla tape was so sticky that it wedged in place and when the roof was opened pulled the plastic cover off the actual metal pin keeping the switch on. So the roof is now working but it's back to being noisy when closed. It looks like the tape is not such a good idea? Any thoughts from members?

It's worth having the aerial working in my view. I would fix it. It even adjusts its length when switching between frequency bands. Others who don't rely on it for decent radio reception would disagree because it is not required, is old fashioned and spoils the look of the car when extended. FM reception is probably still okay as the SC has 2 antennas. Replacing the mast is a bit of a fiddly job from what I've seen and read but shouldn't take too long to do.

I believe this to be correct. Here I see a lot of 220D driving around and the license plates tell they are all more than 10 years old. I have not seen one of them pushing out black exhaust even uphill (where we live it is either up or down more than 50% of the time), most of the diesels look well maintained and when looking at used cars I have so far not seen one Lexus diesel. A lot of RX, NX and of course an abundance of IS, SE and CT.

The YouTube vid I followed is http://www.howtoautomotive.com/videos-2/2018/5/24/how-to-replace-the-spark-plugs-on-a-2010-2015-lexus-rx450h-hybrid?rq=rx450 Take a look and then tell me if I took too long to do the job........ I think I did ok!