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I had a visit from the local PCSO a couple of nights ago, who was checking on a nearby car theft. Came inside and gave me an update on car security measures for our on the drive parked CT, of which to be fair I am pretty much up to speed on. The main points being the crook/disc lock being a worthwhile addition, Faraday pouch for the smart locking key fobs etc and the added deterrent of having my Catloc fitted. I said I had mixed feelings about the Faraday pouch, as I had to consider my preference to waking up in the morning after a sound nights sleep to find the car gone. Or waking up in the middle of the night to find someone breaking into the house to get the keys 😆. Even so he gifted me a Faraday pouch before leaving lol! The real bonus though, he also gifted me a Smart Water kit and window stickers and registered the Ct on the Smart Water traceable vehicle site. Apparently the Chop Shops have made it clear that Smart water treated cars will not be accepted from car thieves, as any treated parts found on premises are now resulting in an over 85% prosecution success rate. I already have put the smart water stickers on next to the Catloc stickers, and will start applying the smart water on various parts/places when the weather is a bit nicer. 😉

I ordered the only LC500 Ultimate Edition Coupe a couple of weeks ago which was already in the UK in their depot. Waiting to collect in the next few days. Dealership told me that this is the last coupe that arrived in the UK and production has stopped. I was mostly looking for the panoramic 360 camera and trouchscreen is the bonus.

£432 for an Original Edition

Well I decided to go with stanwithaplan and buy the halfords car cover option as my driveway is tarmac and I don't know what is underneath it so bolting anything down may not be possible anyway. Size XL and 10% discount ended yesterday so I payed £60. When I get the car back from paint I'll make sure it's completely dry if it has rained and regularly air it when we get a dry day to try to avoid condensation. Thanks for all the helpful information guys.

It’s also in The Times. So that’s both newspapers probably most read by Lexus clients or potential clients.

Just one of the many contrasts between Fife and Cheshire. 😉

Had my yearly service this week at Lexus Bolton. Collected car from my home, changed a squeaky boot Strutt they changed this under warranty (apparently a cost of over £1000), then returned the car. Always good service at Bolton. I did pay to have Apple Car play installed, not too sure if was worth it yet but I think navigation is better than Lexus's.

I was poking around getting an idea for what I wanted to swap out my '15 Suzuki Swift Sport for and once again came round to the idea of a CT. Plenty of looked after cars around at reasonable prices and then accidentally came across a very nice dealer car. High end of the prices but well worth it. One 550mile round trip later and I got myself a very tidy 1 owner car. 2020 F-Sport in Deep Blue with black leather and 12k on the clocks Tech, Convenience, and Leather packs Premium Nav and 10 speaker Fresh full service and MOT Catloc fitted by the dealer when they took it in. Full tank of fuel (they accidentally filled it) I hadn't driven one of these since my days valet parking some 7 years ago and the salesman was quite surprised I still knew where every switch and fiddly bit was and more so that I was quite happy just to get in it and go without any sort of test drive. Feels built like an absolute tank and incredibly comfortable for the ride home. I got around 56mpg on the way home with the aircon on and doing 70mph. That used to be diesel territory on a good day. And 10mpg more than my previous car on the trip up. Will be interesting to see how it stacks up with my normal commute driving.

It depends on the test conditions. I won’t have an electric due to range anxiety but if my circumstances were different and I could run one I’d expect far less than published unless I could replicate the exact test parameters.

Yes I found that. Tyres next, fronts are OK sumitomo, but I have mixed brands at the rear. Two new Yokohamas won't hurt.

Thank you! It worked. I cannot imagine how difficult it was for the Toyota engineers to have designed such a ridiculously unintuitive UI. Im still unsure how you navigate between ensembles, having to use the cd player shuffle buttons is a master stroke. I found BBC so that's all good, though I haven't found R6 yet, I daren't look in case I lose the whole lot!

It is black obsidian mate

Todays purchase.

You can download from here: Toyota-Tech.eu

Many thanks for this. After having had the car for so long, it's a surprise to keep discovering new features that I knew nothing about! I'll check this when I'm next in the car. Of course, it might be turned on anway and I've simply never noticed.

First in Audio Settings / DAB Settings / DAB Alternative Frequency - set this to ON Then when the DAB signal is too low for good reception, the radio automatically switches to the matching FM station (I think it only works for DAB national stations with a matching FM station - it works well for Radio 2 that I listen to mostly). A better explanation from a Toyota radio manual is: «DAB alternative Frequency» also known as "Network following" is a feature that, when available, will automatically switch to the strongest channel for a certain station. It is recommended to have this feature enabled. Enabling «DAB alternative Frequency» will also activate the «FMlink» feature. «FMLink» is a feature that will switch from DAB radio to FM radio (given the tuned DAB station has an exact FM alternative) when the DAB reception deteriorates. When the DAB-signal improves «FMLink» can again switch back from FM to DAB You know it's switched over as in the display in the centre console (when it's showing radio stations) you will see FM-Link pop up - also you will hear a change in the quality - DAB has a better quality than FM - there is no pause, just a change in the quality. When the DAB reception improves again it will seamlessly switch back to DAB and the FM-Link will pop-up will be gone and the quality will improve again. Much better than losing the DAB signal all together when reception is poor. It's very useful when driving around hilly areas as FM will keep working when the DAB signal is intermittent.

A more satisfying headline might be: Lexus driver cleared by Dashcam evidence. If you don’t have one fitted, why not?

I used DAB in my last two cars, and agree it works seamlessly. The sound quality is also very good as you'd expect.

I am waiting for the insurance companies to get to grips. It's only been a week since they had group numbers issued. I am pretty sure by this time next week all will be well and all these issues will be a distant memory.

Indeed as I said - it is GOOD deal, just maybe not as good as I would like 🙂 The sunroof is absolute must for me, I know other people hate them, but for me it is basically most important thing in the car. Especially RC which is kind of crammed and sun roof really gives feeling of extra space. I knows it sounds counter intuitive "car is crammed, so I want sunroof which takes extra 1.5cm of the head space". But headroom in front is not really an issue (I am ~6.1/186), maybe it would be an issue with helmet, but I am not looking to track the car anyway and if helmet does not fit then 1.5 cm probably not going to make that much difference anyway. Radar Cruise is definitely nice to have, I agree in UK it is pain with horrible lane discipline, but I definitely expect to have this in GT car... but yes you can't use it in heavy traffic. As for TVD - a yes I agree, LSD is actually more fun, but worse for lap times, but again outside of the track LSD is both, lighter, better on fuel, more fun and totally sufficient. So TVD is not dealbreaker, sunroof is, RCC... well I guess I probably would buy car without one and then I would hate myself for doing it.

Owner said he was going to speak with his insurance, I would have fixing it and keep away from insurance. Insurance wise, it could have been bought back but would be classified as a Cat C and worth less on resale . Fixing it might cost 2k but with a retail of upto 8k…. Decisions decisions !

One less car on the road. Our cars have just increased in rarity!

Most owners seem to struggle to get the DAB to work. I imagine most just give up and stick to FM. But in case you feel like persisting, I'll add a link to a discussion from three or four years ago. This may or not be helpful as your car may have a newer system. But just in case it helps, here's an explanation of how I got DAB working on my 2014 car.

Now's your time 🤣 https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202310132944563 The prices aren't dropping as much as the mileage is rising unfortunately.

Back to the OP; I have been chatting with some business contacts in the accident repair market for around 3 years or so now, and they have been increasingly concerned about the challenges of safely and effectively repairing EV's or anything with a battery pack. Same goes for the autonomous features, eg lane departure, ACC etc etc. These technologies are simply too complex for the majority of workshops to handle properly, let alone back street independants. The upshot is that entire battery modules are being replaced rather than being repaired and individual cells being replaced. Sure, over time designs will evolve to make these repairs easier and lower cost, but that's not always the case right now. Personally, I was somewhat surprised that my annual premium doubled when I jumped from my 2.0TSI Skoda into a much more sedate hybrid. My wife runs an Auris hybrid, and the premium isn't especially high, so it can't just be the hybrid / battery repair / replacement cost consideration. I've started reading about the spate of thefts of lexus generally, and subsequent stories that LV will no longer provide cover to RX owners

The fold back ones (clamshell?) are OK, but again you need to make certain they are well secured to the ground, or the wind will bounce it off the side of your car. I had one for a motorcycle (Bike Barn) and it lasted about 6 years before the nylon degraded and started to split. Whatever you get, you will need size Large or Extra-Large as the LS is a big old beast

higher octanes are for engines with a compression ratio above 12 to 1, and this Lexus has 13 to 1, so I have always given her the slightly more expensive E5 for peace of mind.

i had heard of this before (hasn't happened to my car yet though) and found a video that explains it in 5 min...

These microdot marking systems are very effective and impossible to remove without obviously damaging the surface on which they have been applied. I have them on clocks and expensive electronic equipment - and even if a car was being stolen for parts, the fact that just one microdot detected would identify the source vehicle is yet another worry for both thief and receiver. A good additional deterrent for very little effort!

I figured it out. So I had previously opened my door panels to install new door speakers. When I reinstalled the door panels back on, I didn’t properly reinstall the door locking cable mechanism to one of the doors. So when I went to lock my car, it senses that one door isn't locking itself and therefore doesn’t engage the folding mirrors. Thank god it wasn’t an electrical issue. To verify that was the issue before I uninstalled the door panel, I manually locked the door from the inside then closed all the doors and used my key fob to lock the car and sure enough it worked. Mirrors folded closed!

The crazy thing is that the LBX is in insurance group 24, which is mid of where many premium small SUV’s are - Mini Countryman, Audi , some VW T-Roc’s etc - and insurance quotes for those are much lower than the current quotes for the LBX. I think we are all hoping quotes soon come down as more insurance companies add the LBX to the websites. if not as “dog3665” says Lexus are not going to succeed in selling it to their younger hipper target audience! Mind you I always thought that might be a bit of a stretch and far more likely to sell to more mature drivers downsizing or not needing a large car but still wanting a hint of luxury. I remember Honda trying to realign the Jazz to younger folk but it still sells predominantly to older buyers. I have arranged a test drive but certainly won’t be confirming my order until I see more realistic insurance quotes.

It's a problem with all modern cars, especially hybrids and EVs. Some EVs (Tesla and some Kia/Hyundai for example) will auto wake and charge the battery itself if it detects it going flat.

Found this on a local FB page 😀 “So my car needs to pass an MOT to make sure it’s safe to drive on roads that aren’t safe to drive on ?”

Potholes, you have no idea.

It was a short chime and a message on the dash appeared saying "key battery low".

I remember that style of cover from maybe 60 years ago 🤔 Malc

Is this one of those self drive cars? 😉 Looking very nice indeed.

Got out for a little drive, not been washed this year but still looking precentable 😎

I think you might find that the enhanced plates are not at all enhanced. People without all the facts say some total bs. What probably happened is the original plates were prototype and the final plate design differed a bit. Lexus were experimenting at the beginning. We all knew the plates were a stop gap. I think I might look into adding some additional protection for the wiring loom. A firmware update will never happen. It's far too difficult and expensive to roll out because for every 100 successful flashes, one car will fail and the boxes will be dead. That will cost £££ to put right. A preliminary firmware fix as previously discussed by a security researcher would only be a stop gap also, because the thieves will eventually obtain a work around. Only fully encrypted units will work and our cars hardware do not have the processing chips to handle encryption. Therefore a permanent solution cannot exist ever. Get a scorpion or similar chip. Have a steering wheel lock. And hope for the best. The 4RX is a dead car. Trade in for a 5RX or another brand not affected by this exploit. No point demanding the impossible.

My LBX is already for collecting but i'am having it delivered to my home on Wednesday. I will post a photo when it arrives.

Many years ago I read of a similar problem. The solution was to cover all panel gaps and window closings with duct tape. Drive the car, and then remove parts of the tape until the noise appears. This should then point to the problem area. A bit of a faff of you can't slide over to the passenger side to get out!

Over the years I'm always intrigued why certain posts offend/displease/upset or generally get right up someone's nose and not just my own posts or threads. Forums are a place for people who love cars and anything to do with them. I take no offence to posts that question what I do as most members see it for what it is. Accessorising a car unnecessarily can sometimes be an affront to good taste but if my pedal swap makes you sad then I guess you will feel even sadder when you look at this photo, the pedals in my first LS460 I owned. I'll guess I am significantly older (70) than the average member but welcome all opinions. My working life was entirely related to motor vehicles so maybe that influences my contributions to Forums. Our country and the world is going to hell in a hand cart so silly things like a pedal swap is just a bit of nonsense. I respect all purists who have no time for frivolous changes for changes sake. Good luck to you all in everything that is important to you.

Yes all normal tools and sockets will do, ideally you should have mirror or even better camera (borescope). Loads of lights as well. Yes you can remove belt-release tensioner with normal socket or spanner. The trick for me was having multiple thickens of sockets, so deep sockets, short sockets and then set of extensions. Basically the trick is to match socket and extension length so that you can reach the bolts for the brackets, but they are not too long so that they back-up into rail. and then basically you undo the bolt, maybe half way, then change to shorter socket, then in the end use fingers or small spanner. Flex joints are also good idea. As I said - should be easier to do from underneath the car, but just marginally, space there just sucks. First time it took me good 2 hours an a lot of cursing just to remove alternator. So for replacement I would say 4 hours. Obviously could be done quicker when you get used to it.

You can check the battery, you can also charge the battery and it will get you ... I don't know - 10-15 miles just on the battery. Changing spark plugs is easy, I can do it in 15 minutes. There is literally a single bolt behind the throttle body which is tricky, the rest is very straight forward. Changing alternator is ABSOLUTE PAIN, basically all the bolts are blind and there is no space. if you get socket inside then socket backs-up into the chassis rail. I tend to believe it is easier from underneath of the car, but still in terms of pain factor it is easy 8/10, spark plugs on IS250 would be 3/10 in my opinion. Have I done worse - yeah sure - replacing Engine Harness No1 on the car without removing engine and gearbox is way worse (it also requires removing alternator just to get to crank position sensor). That would be easy 11/10, but alternator on IS250 is up there in less then nice jobs. Alternator could also be easily tested. So I would start from charging the battery and then testing voltages. Charged battery should be anywhere between 12.4-12.8v. Above 12.8v is "surface charge" which will disappear after few minutes with headlights on. Anything below 12v is either battery not charged or faulty. Then if you can start the car (you should be able to after charging it), then voltage should read something ~13.8v-14.4v. 14.4v is absolutelly perfect new alternator without anything running on the car, so on heathy alternator you will see something ~ 14v. IS250 with engine running should be something like 14.2v on new alternator, I have checked mine few times and it jumps around a little bit 13.96v maybe to 14.21v, but give or take averages above 14v. That is good. Anything below 13.8v is considered bad, but you can easily run the car just fine, but it just takes longer to charge the battery and eventually when you have few things on, heated seats, music playing, high beam, phone charging etc... you could get to the point where alternator does not generate enough power to even run the car. I forgotten what is the trigger point for fault (assume something like below 13.4v), but basically what battery light means is that your input voltage from alternator dropped below that level. Hence when you turn ignition on it shows battery light (because battery is 12.8v at most), but when you start the engine battery light goes away.

Enjoy, dealer keeps trying to get me to upgrade mine, but most of them are similar or higher mileage and don't look any cleaner. Plus the 2014 stays rego free. Mines a keeper and owes me nowt,

Well done on your new purchase Pete and welcome to the LOC! You'll love the CT and soon will get obsessed by lovingly looking after it! It's a great all rounder and the Lexus dealership network is a winner too!👍🏾

UK government “You must buy an electric car!” UK Insurers “We don’t provide cover for electric cars” What time is the number 15 bus due?

Lexus use CCS on the RZ. It is a mystery to me why they stuck with Chademo when they made all the useful upgrades to the 300e. If the 300e used CCS I would have probably bought one instead of the RZ

Figured out why the wing mirrors won’t fold in....It because they’re door mirrors ...

Revealed: The electric cars with the most disappointing battery charges compared to what is adverti… https://mol.im/a/13186995