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Yes lovely colour and quite rare as I have only come across a couple. I recently changed my Graphite Black NX450h+ Premium Plus and was intent on a NX450h+ f-sport in Fuji red with a black and white interior plus sunroof. Couldn't get that colour combo from UK stock unfortunately (nearest was Fuji Red with black interior and sunroof or Fuji Red with black and white interior but no sunroof). Actually have now got an RX Premium Plus in Sonic Platinum with Ammonite Sand interior. Difference in finance terms between the two was amazingly close. Miss my NX but delighted with the RX.

Hi Although this topic has been addressed I thought I would share my experience particularly as my local Dealership sent me a copy of the Lexus Bulletin which authorises the repair under warranty. I purchased an approved used RX 450h and within a few days noticed the dreaded " brake squawk " at low speeds particularly when reversing yet the Dealership failed to diagnose the cause of the issue. Convinced there was a problem I phoned several Lexus Dealerships describing the fault and one Service Manager immediateley identified the " brake squawk" arranged for the parts to be ordered and booked the car in for the repair all under warranty which would have cost £3500 So in case this happens to anyone else I have attached a link to the Lexus Bulletin Hope this may be helpful https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203537-9999.pdf

I test-drove an AWD LBX the other day and, although I tried to keep an open mind, I quickly came to the conclusion, fully aware that I was comparing apples and pears, that I wouldn't want to replace my ageing 2019 RC300h with one. The LBX is quiet and comfortable, pretty rather than handsome in appearance, fairly nippy in town traffic, very well appointed with an excellent infotainment system, and feels sturdy and firmly-planted - but it is not a car I would want to use for motorway drives of any great length even though I personally undertake these less frequently than I once did. I was offered a hefty discount off list-price for immediate delivery from stock of a top-spec Original Edition version, which, added to a generous trade-in valuation for my RC, was tempting. But not tempting enough. In short, I reckon the LBX would be an absolutely perfect second car for anybody wanting or able to afford one, but only if its main use is in and around large cities.

I think it's mostly just for fun. In a manual car you might change down to get more power for faster overtaking. You can simulate this for the same reason - higher revs gives more power, perhaps when you're about to overtake. But with this transmission you can get higher revs just by pressing the accelerator in a way that is not possible in a manual. In past years, journalists who didn't understand this described the transmission as being noisy. This is wrong. It's not the transmission that is noisy it's the engine, which like any other engine is noisy if you change down to the lowest available gear when the car is moving at speed. It's just that you can get maximum power in this transmission just by pressing the accelerator, rather than having to manually change down. You can also use the paddles on a long descent of a hill. But I generally use the brakes in order to get maximum power regeneration. If the hill is not too steep you may be able to slow the car enough with a light touch of the brakes which will only use the motor-generators, rather than the brake pads, to feed electricity into the battery. And when the battery is full, the car will increase engine revs automatically to provide engine braking when the battery can take no more electricity. Sometimes you might think the engine is running when in fact no fuel is being used but electricity is being drawn from the battery and the motor-generators are turning the engine without petrol. This is done to reduce the charge in the battery when it's close to the maximum.

You are right as my problem is when I go to supermarket car parks. I had 2 incidents with my previous car and both have been when the car was parked. Some idiots are not bothered about other people’s cars. Driving an old car and are not bothered if they touch your car when parking next to you or exiting the space next to you.

New battery fitted perfectly and fired up a treat. Old battery still duff. UK sticker applied, Franch crit air sticker stuck, auto toll device hung, hi viz jackets stashed, warning triangle stowed, tyres pumped. Not bothering with beam deflectors as this car does not need them apparently officer.

With some help from this thread and EEPROM programming I was able to add DRCC and PCS to my 2014 US spec. IS350 AWD. What finally worked was pulling the Driving Support ECU & Engine Control Module and virginizing them, which caused the car to think it has a new ECM. Process to get the DSU to allow Radar Cruise (disconnect battery before uninstalling DSU/ECU): 1. Backup ECM and DSU EEPROMs before doing anything. See these photos of the modules: https://imgur.com/a/jU8Jtjv 2. Write the semi-virgin data to the DSU EEPROM. (93LC66 16 bit) See this original and semi-virgin example data for writing. Don't delete the Region information or Part number information. Blank out the information like the example. (Different years and models may look nothing like this). (I'm not 100% sure if this whole step needed) 3. Write all 00's to the Engine Control Module EEPROM (93LC86 16bit) 4. Reinstall virginized ECM and DSU 5. Reconnect Battery. Initiate Immobilizer/ECM learn routine. (Jump Pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2/DLC, Ignition on for 30 minute, then off and start the car 6. Write VIN using Techstream to Engine Control Module (It will show a VIN not programmed DTC). Mine still shows the DTC after writing the VIN, but the check engine light is now off. I'm guess it will disappear eventually) 7. Test DRCC. All seemed to be working well matched leading vehicle speed and braking worked well. No DTC's after 30 min of driving. Radar aiming will likely be necessary to ensure it's properly tracking vehicles in front of you. DRCC should look like this one the instrument cluster: https://imgur.com/a/InCNkBt Notes: Be cautious with the ECM modification, there's always a chance of causing the car not to start if something goes wrong. EEPROM Tools and Guides I used: CH341A EEPROM Programmer I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R5LPTYM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details CH431A EEPROM Programmer modifications needed to support 93LCXX EEPROMSs: YouTube Instructions EEPROM editing software I used: AsProgrammer_v2.1.0.13 (Windows driver included in the driver install folder): https://mega.nz/#!VMR0QQhL!wU4fYzCqjtHfXbD_tyOCRVnd3ahGgjprG_8RnVJ7N3o Other good things to watch would be this YouTube video also showing modification of the programmer to work on 93LCXX EEPROMs used in Toyotas. The ECM and DSU both have a protective coating sprayed on the boards, so you may need to gently scrape the pins of the EEPROM for good contact with the programmer. Please keep in mind that I'm not an engineer or an expert, just a hobbyist that enjoys working on cars. These modifications can have expensive/safety repercussions if something goes wrong.

I dunno how they will justify it's existence! Bring back the IS to UK market 😭

Oh aye, when every other car has a number plate made up to spell their name and people interfere with performance chips, I don’t think reducing the volume of the woo woo maker is going to attract the attention of the flying squad. 20,000 new cops on the street my left foot.

After seeing a few examples of folks in the community attempting to retrofit PCS (Pre Crash System) + DRCC (Dynamic Radar Cruise Control), some successful and some not, I thought I give it a go on my 2015 IS 250 base model. After figuring out all the parts required, I started on the adventure of trying to get them. Here are all the parts that are required: Cruise Switch (84632-30020) + Wire (84633-76020) for DRCC Steering Controls (84250-53231-C0) Lexus Emblem for Radar (53141-48050) Radar (88210-53140) + Bolts (3x 90119-06782) Buzzer (86652-50010) Network Gateway ECU (89100-30221) + Bolts (2x 90159-50327) Driving Support ECU (88150-53052) + Wire (82143-24020) + Bolts (94151-80600) PCS Cancel Button (84770-50010) Engine Wire Harness with Radar Connector (82112-53340) Most parts were available in the used market, mostly eBay. Some from within the UK and some from the US. The parts that proved to be more difficult to find were the Driving Support ECU and a matching Radar. The Driving Support ECU part number that is required is 88150-53052, however from a quick Google search, the only place this part number appears are in parts catalog websites. Digging a bit deeper I first found it on sale in Vladivostok, on a Russian site called wiweb(blocked word). Here is the full link: https://www.wiweb(blocked word)/goods/elektronnyiy_blok_lexus_is250_8815053052_gse30_4gr_8815053052-198031S2997547103.html. I reached out to the seller however he wasn’t sure about how I would pay him and also how he would ship it to the UK with the current restrictions in place. After looking at the parts catalog, I found two other part numbers, one for an older part (88150-53051) used in a previous production batch (2013/06 - 2014/07), and one for a newer part (88150-53053) used in a later production batch (2015/08 - 2016/10). My vehicle was produced 2014/11 and the part I am looking for is from the 2014/07 - 2015/08 production batch. I thought I start looking for these parts in the hope of widening my chances, keeping in mind that these might not actually work in the end. I ended up finding these in Japan, on Yahoo auctions, and bought them through ZenMarket since Yahoo auctions is not available outside of Japan. At first, I found the newer part (88150-53053), and ordered it. As I waited for the Driving Support ECU, I managed to get the rest of the parts. I fit the Network Gateway ECU, swapped the steering controls, changed the engine wire harness to the one with the radar connector, the radar itself, swapped the emblem in front of the radar, and finally fit both the PCS cancel button and buzzer. The only thing now remaining was the Driving Support ECU. It’s worth mentioning that the new cruise switch, even though it’s the one for using with radar, works with standard cruise control. Once the Driving Support ECU arrived, I plugged it in and hit my first issue. I got the following DTC: C1A0A - Front Radar Sensor Region Code Mismatch. Using Techstream, I found that the Radar had the country code set to NA (for North America) and the Driving Support ECU had the country code set to JPN (for Japan). This made sense since the Radar came from the US and the ECU from Japan, so then I ordered a Radar from Japan, again through ZenMarket. After I got the Radar from Japan and replaced the US one, through Techstream, I used the initialisation utility on the Network Gateway ECU. After clearing all the previous DTC’s, started up everything and no errors. I can now see a cruise control tab in my instrument cluster and when using the cruise switch and the distance switch on the steering, everything seems to react accordingly. When turning on the cruise switch, I can also see “Radar Ready” in the instrument cluster. I went for a test drive, got the car to around 35 MPH and set the speed. For around 1 second, I see the set cruise speed in the cruise control tab but then get an error: “Check Cruise Control System”. Using Techstream, I get the following DTC: C1A52 - Driving Support ECU Communication Abnormal. I will try to record the exact behaviour and post a video soon. My first conclusion was that maybe since it’s a newer ECU, it’s not fully compatible with the rest of the system. After resetting all the ECU (by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for around 5 minutes) and trying again, I get the same DTC. Currently I have few theories, but no way to test them: Even though there is no region mismatch error being shown in Techstream, since all the other ECU’s, mainly the ECM and the multiplex ECU, in my car would be set to EU (Europe) I suspect that might still be problematic. This is hard to correct, since I can probably never get a Driving Support ECU with the correct part number and region. Since the ECU I tried is newer than the one needed and doesn’t match the exact part number, I thought I give the older ECU a try, this was in the market at the time on ZenMarket, so I went ahead and purchased it. Unfortunately that also leads to the same DTC. Other examples from the community: 2011 GX 460 - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-2nd-gen-2010-2023/921818-retrofit-oem-radar-cruise.html 2015 GS 350 https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-4th-gen-2013-2020/883922-pre-collision-system-retrofit.html 2008 GS 450h https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/131146-lexus-gs-450h-sport-radar-cruise-control-retrofit/ If anyone has any ideas or thoughts about how to go forward, feel free to respond to this thread. DTC C1A52.pdf DTC C1A0A.pdf

There have been a number of occasions over the years, that the LS400 has surprised me with a feature I was unaware of, today was another. Forgive me if this is already common knowledge and I'm a dumbass. If you put the climate control onto recirculate, then press and hold auto for a few seconds a menu pops up on the main screen, giving you the ability to change the sensitivity of the air quality detection used to activate the switch from fresh air to recirculate. Well I never knew!

I’ve always had BlackVue cameras. In the event of an impact, the camera automatically saves a few seconds prior to the impact. The total length of the recoding can be set by the user. There is no limit to the number of recordings that can be made in such circumstances. So in a busy car park you do get quite a few videos of shoppers parking! Still, if one decided to take exception to your nice Lexus you’d know who to look for! In standby mode the activation can be by impact or by movement detected by infrared sensors eg someone walking in front or behind the car. In some cars I’ve returned to find that an impact has been recorded only to find, on examination, that it was me shutting the door on leaving the car!

Yes, there are others that do that, but not from NextBase. The issue is that the camera does require a bit of power to run, so runs (very very slowly) your 12V battery down. Some cameras even have a heater to warm the windscreen, to stop ice forming. It's fine, but there is that current drain. Your fitters should be able to advise you what's best though, and you can make the decision. : o )

Hey Lexus family, I was recently loaned the current NX 350h in F sport trim by Lexus Glasgow. Firstly, I am loving the Fuji Red paint. I can't say I see too many NX's in a bold colour. The red interior was a treat too. + less cvt noise compared to Mk 1 NX + handled well and smooth enough ride + real world 44mpg (vs 35mpg I got in the mk 1) - price (over £52k for this one) - not 100% convinced on a lot of features through the touchscreen Enjoy some pics below.

Fantastic! The RX is a stunning car too! I am yet to drive the latest RX

New OE radiator if you want to prevent anything but people will have reported any ‘LS430 type issues’ with the LS400 I would think. It’s a good idea to replace the radiator anyway and flush out the cooling system with an older car. The radiator on my car had been replaced otherwise I would have replaced it.

Until you get bored of BMWs - which I did after quite a few that all seemed to start blending to be the same car even after new models were launched and wanted something left field and so chose the IS 300h which was different enough to be interesting and kept me interested such that I have no idea what to change to - so will keep it soldiering in for a while longer yet.

I've found sport mode plus full throttle works as good as you'll get for overtaking. It's a massive improvement over my wife's Auris in that respect, thank goodness.

Unfortunately this looks like scratches rather than the coating lifting off. Not sure if you can get a new plastic cover? (Issue is it may only be sold with the screen as one part). Paul

No room for that !

Yes Intelligent Parking Mode: Yes As on the manual I am not tech savvy and hope never to have to use it.

The one I have uses Gforce which starts recording when an object movement is detected around your vehicle, including incident.

Yes, love the red. I can't remember if it was available when I ordered. I remember thinking that there was not a great selection and I was going to go for black. I'm not normally a fan of red interior but this all matches well 😀

It seems the Nextbase model Lexus which dealers are using has only simple parking mode and not buffered parking mode. In simple mode the camera wakes up when something happens and records. So you will miss the incidents. In buffered mode, the cam will record 30 seconds before and after the incidents.

I will check and screen shot the app in a minute

Wise decision! Your car is just as likely to be attacked or damaged when it’s parked - if not more so! As a general rule, I think this is the kind of equipment best installed by a busy auto electrician - who may be doing it on a regular basis - than a dealer’s mechanic who does it occasionally. And if this Dealer keeps offering outdated cameras, then they won’t be selling many of them.

@TomLC500h Part number you are after is: 87931-53770

I mixed up black and blue until it looked similar 👍🏻

42MPG sounds like the norm your never going to consistently acheive diesel territory MPG figures. Only obvious call outs are dont carry unnecessary weight, check tyre pressures, go easy on the throttle but that soon becomes boring. I stopped chasing MPG figures a few months after ownership, I genuinely don't know how people acheive 60+mpg figures over a full tank. To keep pace with traffic or driving it normal without holding traffic does hurt the figures (at least from my experience), the 2.5 engine is not great on economy but neither is it bad, if your coming from a diesel you will feel the MPG drop like I did.

Good choice Bob they look very smart but won't you lose a half mark for the non-original metallic blue? 😁

Lexus cars, as a percentage of those on the road in the UK, were the most stolen cars in 2023. They have taken that “accolade” from Land Rover… and their insurance and theft problems are well known! lots of Lexus models are at risk of a vulnerability that allows thieves to plug in a device, open your car doors, and drive off in less than 60 seconds. A bbc watchdog report finally promoted a response from Lexus earlier this month: https://mag.lexus.co.uk/lexus-uk-statement-on-vehicle-theft/?fbclid=IwAR2u1DC_0mAo4_kSpK_1FLViLNyHJq0nAKctwfXCMxQi1CwuNiGBA10yY0w_aem_ATXzc0mSafM1xX72JZyfSo-7KpoTKXtkPQjmf6ToRhjQ_4GsDaGMH6Nf5ACoFWEW2pE given Lexus themselves have only recently shared that list, it’s unsurprising insurers have taken a blanket “no Lexus” approach to underwriting.

Yes, originally NX and NX with premium pack were just under…but I’m not sure (m)any were actually delivered before the list price increased? The VED is based on the list price the day before new car registration rather than point of order. first deliveries were due January, and by April 2022, all were listed over £40k. The NX FWD also then appeared, but, quickly also moved above 40k and so unclear if any were delivered before that.

Hi J Hendesrson, Wow your F sport looks stunning on the original pics, only started reading up on your story just now and intend to read up with what youve done with it since youve had it, looking forward to it. 🙂 I heard the noise in mine again this morning reversing out of the drive, it was more of a grinding noise that lasted a few seconds till I straightended up. I have a strong feeling that it might slightly be catching somewhere under the front driver rim somewhere when on full turn and due to the angle of the drive, as i can see a slight difference to the rim protector (Im not sure of the name but will take some close up pics). It might just be my paranoi again though. Im also more convinced that is more prominent when the tyres are cold so its possibly just what you said or maybe a combination of both. For example just did some tight turns on a hilly drive and no noise at all., tyres not completely cold. I did a 200+ mile trip in it today. She drove like a dream. 38+mpg with a fair amount of luggage which Im very happy with and the ride felt fine on 40psi all round.

Not sure if it still applies today but in Japan if you break down on a busy road you are required to ignite it and place it behind the car to warn other drivers. Both mine had them removed before export but the holder is still there.

I'm very happy with my fuji red NX too, not seen another on the road - yet. Mine isn't an F Sport but I do have the red interior (different pattern to the F Sport) and am really pleased with it. Interesting to know that there is a similar colour combination out there.

Hopefully all will be well now but do keep an eye on the communication icon. I found that I had to reconnect every trip until I did the reset. I didn't find it necessary to press the power button as you describe. If you do need to go down the reset route, your journey data may not appear straight away. It did for me but it took a few days before it reliably appeared for a friend.

Exterior colour and internal trim colour is less of a consideration to some if other aspects tick the box. I missed out on a 3rd Gen Premier that had the silver exterior I wanted with beige interior, heated part wood steering wheel and more advanced cruise control and waited several months to find another the same. In the end I found a very nice example without the aforementioned extras but with interior lifted somewhat by light grey seats, side arm rests and top of central arm rest. It's a long way from being the most attractive SUV but I have come to like it and find it neater than the larger footprint of the 4th Gen RX models. More importantly, It will serve me until an all electric model is a better proposition with as good comfort and I don't see this happening for some time. I did do a small adjustment to enable a slightly larger AGM battery to be fitted, (Take care not to let yours go near flat as this shortens the life/kills it). Additionally, I installed a detachable six inch TomTom on a secure platform I made. This provides free map and camera updates and i have found it to be more reliable than the Lexus sat nav. I did detail these on the forum quite a while ago now. I see you don't have the roof rails which some like. They are difficult to find used and available from Lexus Dealers but very expensive to buy. Enjoy your very nice motor car!

LV don’t seem to want to distinguish between Lexus models that are vulnerable to theft and those that aren’t. Best not to worry about it and just go to another insurer.

Very true with this “Where’s there’s blame, there’s a claim” Not much point having a Lexus V8 noise though, pedestrians don’t hear my 4.3 litres creeping up behind them either 😀

HI all, Just a quick update. Got the car back yesterday after having the pan roof replaced (the non opening bit) and very satisfied with the car and a good job done by Lexus Hull as usual. (I have no affiliatiation with Lexus Hull apart from being a satisfied customer). Bri

Looks very nice, just me personally I would get the beige/cream interior.

My wife has the same; years and model. Great car! Enjoy!

I’ve been waiting to see what threads and responses there have been about CAN bus theft on the forums and digging on the web before making a second post. It’s a grim picture and I’m now regretting buying another Lexus, but am stuck with the consequences and keeping my fingers crossed. The car is great even if Toyota GB / Lexus isn’t. A not inconsiderable sum has been spent on the fitment of after market security and purchase of the hugely inconvenient Stop Lock Pro Elite, - (a Lexus recommendation akin to suggesting a sticking plaster to fix a severed leg) an unattractive and deeply un-aesthetic decal to stick on the passenger wheel arch trim warning the car is theft protected without going into detail so I might have some hope of finding the vehicle where I left it without the wing and arch lining ripped off. The Stop Lock Pro Elite as recommended on the Lexus PR page to beleaguered owners does not even fit a Lexus steering wheel properly! After only ten days use there is a permanent indent in the steering wheel where the body of the lock rests on the soft texture steering wheel covering. The blade presses down on the lights/indicator stalk potentially causing damage, so the stalk needs to be pressed down to the left indicator position every time the Stop Lock is used. Even in its bag, the Stop Lock slides around the rear seat footwell during driving banging into the base of the seats and the bottom of the rear door interiors. Is this what owners of ‘premium’ vehicles should expect to put up with? Of course whether insurance will be affordable next renewal, maybe shooting up 2-300% or possibly even un-insurable is another matter. After market security products should be an option for the owner wanting additional peace of mind that the vehicle is as secure as it can be made, NOT and I repeat NOT an absolute necessity if they want a reasonable chance of their vehicle remaining where they left it because the manufacturer’s design means they might as well leave the keys in the cup holder and doors unlocked for anybody to take. Worst of all Toyota GB / Lexus division are actively avoiding doing anything about a serious problem to owners entirely of the manufacturer’s making. There were 44,564 Lexus registrations between July 2016 and November 19 in the UK, (source: Statista Research). All highly vulnerable to CAN bus attack, because of the manufacturer’s design. Plus obviously more units registered post Nov 2019 subject to CAN bus theft, but I do not have these figures. Many of these will still be under warranty; many will have been resold as used approved through the Lexus dealer network. How many owners is that with a problem vehicle? 60-70,000 in the UK. Separate, isolate and exterminate seems to be the Toyota GB/Lexus plan of action to ignore owners. As distressing, financially damaging and inconvenient this has been and could well become for so many Lexus owners, individually and even as contributors to these forums we might as well go into our gardens and scream at the back wall until red in the face for all the notice Toyota GB/Lexus division management will take. And for those who have made comments along the line of ‘’ I’ll wait until the next gen before buying, that’s meant to be secure’’ I ask after you have spent £50-70,000 on a brand new vehicle, what happens if a serious problem in its design or electronics occurs down the line and the Toyota GB/Lexus response is, ‘’not our problem’’ are you going to just take it on the chin and say ‘’oh well it’s only money, no matter the manufacturer attitude has cost me £5-10-15-30,000, what’s the next shiny, but flawed offering you have so I can waste another ton of money?’’ Restitution for existing Lexus owners via legal routes such as class action is impractical and costly. The only way Lexus owners will get the aftercare and remedial action to significantly reduce CAN bus vulnerability, rising theft numbers and unaffordable insurance premiums on their vehicles is to make this issue so embarrassing and widely known about for Toyota GB/Lexus that they have no option, but to fix the issue and the manufacturer’s expense or suffer such reputational damage that it costs them new car sales and market share in the UK. As a cohort of owners it’s not easy to achieve, but it is possible, as individual owners shouting into a closed box restitution is impossible. I am willing to be a speck of dust around which a thunderstorm develops as it were. I’ll set up an email address and platform around which owners can coalesce, (with appropriate security so it is not a database of cars to steal) so we are not individuals, nothing more harmful and easily swatted than single midges, but an angry swarming cloud that cannot be ignored. Anyone who has been to Scotland in peak midge season will know what I mean. Out there will be owners with mass media and other useful contacts, PR skills, promotion skills, etc., etc. Many won’t be bothered and wait for someone else to fix the problem- human nature, but out of the few thousand on this website and the 70,000 odd UK Lexus owners there may be enough coming forward to make a difference. Get in touch. This site purports to be for the benefit of owners and not affiliated to any manufacturer, therefore I ask the site owners to put the CANbus theft scandal topic link on the front page in a prominent position and allow a link to contact details until Toyota GB/Lexus division takes this matter seriously and provides a manufacturer’s fix to all affected owners. I ask other site users to request this of the site owner. If they will not, then why not? Maybe this sites owner would like to work with me for the benefit of Lexus owners on this issue. I have no interest in creating a rival Lexus site or taking forum member details for commercial gain. Below are a few other web links to articles about CAN bus and Lexus theft of interest: The CANIS Automotive Labs CTO blog from Dr Ken Tindall has an interesting article on CAN bus theft https://kentindell.github.io/2023/04/03/can-injection/ I’ve extracted the sections of the article I find most telling, but I would recommend reading the whole thing. The dark web site selling the CAN injector theft unit states all the following Toyota Group/Lexus models are vulnerable ‘’ Lexus models including the ES, LC, LS, NX, RX and Toyota models including the GR Supra, Prius, Highlander, Land Cruiser - and RAV4.’’ ‘’Defeating the CAN Injector First, the good news. A CAN Injector can be defeated, and it can be defeated with a pure software fix, so existing cars can be updated and once again we can avoid fitting a mechanical steering wheel lock at the end of each journey.’’ ‘’ Ian (the person who’s RAV 4 was stolen) has tried to get in touch with Toyota to discuss the CAN Injection attack, and to offer help, but hasn’t had much success. Part of the problem is that any large corporation finds it difficult to respond to security issues.’’ Are we heading for this level of theft levels of our vehicles? – ‘’Nearly 20% of Lexus SUVs stolen in Aichi Prefecture.’’ https://www.asahi.com/ajw/articles/14378293 Is this the way Lexus is going to be treating owners from now on? ‘’He wanted to keep his Lexus from being stolen. Now he faces a $20K bill and voided warranty.’’ https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/toronto/lexus-anti-theft-bill-1.6976240 Maybe we need a few more articles like this in UK mass media? ‘’Here's Why Canadians Might Want To Skip Buying A Lexus RX. Lexus RX Series has the highest chance of being stolen in Canada with a theft percentage of 6.4 percent.’’ https://www.hotcars.com/heres-why-canadians-might-want-to-skip-buying-a-lexus-rx/ Is this what is in store for Lexus owners starting in 2024? ‘’ How Range Rovers became virtually uninsurable. Thefts of the car have risen so much that affordable insurance is just not possible.’’ https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/land-rover/land-rovers-thefts-expensive-insurance/ No doubt the PR department of Toyota GB monitors this website for grass roots owner feedback and as an early alert to brand reputation issues and feeds this back through the corporate structure by a reporting mechanism. So this comment is directly to: Mr Scott Michael Thompson, Managing Director Toyota (GB) PLC, Director Lexus (GB) Ltd Mr Matthew Peter Harrison, Chairman Toyota (GB) PLC, Both at Great Burgh, Burgh Heath, Epsom, KT18 5XS, i.e. the Toyota / Lexus UK HQ. Dear Mr Thompson, Mr Harrison, I appreciate as a manufacturer/distributor Toyota GB/Lexus has no interest in the owners of Lexus vehicles after a brand new unit is registered other than trying to get them to spend another £50-70,000 on a brand product three years down the line and to try to entice customers from other manufacturers to purchase your brand instead of Porsche, Audi etc. Your model relies on maintaining and enhancing brand reputation. Right now Lexus brand reputation and owner experience among existing owners is severely damaged and getting worse. As owners of within warranty, very often purchased as used approved vehicles from authorised dealerships we expect Toyota (GB) / Lexus to correct a severe deficiency in the design of your vehicles that renders them highly insecure. Such PR page nonsense as use a visible deterrent such as Stop Lock is woefully inadequate and inappropriate to remedy a issue solely due to the manufacturer’s design. These vehicles are targeted because a: they are desirable, b: they are very easy to steal. Both factors are required; both are as a result of manufacturer design. We want a DVLA manufacturer’s recall during 2024 for all affected Lexus models, i.e. ES, LC, LS, NX, RX and possibly UX for main dealers to fit physical CAN bus security to the particularly vulnerable CAN bus connection located near the passenger front wheel arch as has been done for RX and any software updates that would prevent the CAN bus being a set of unauthorised keys to steal and drive away Lexus vehicles at will. This will be at no cost to owners, many of whom have to put up with the ugly, inconvenient Stop Lock and have spent considerable sums on after market security as a critical, absolute necessity to have, not just an aftermarket nice to have extra. At present Lexus as a brand is purchased by consumers for comfort, materials quality and because of reliability reputation. Something built up after the last twenty years. You have been successful in keeping the CAN bus theft issue of Lexus models largely out of the public sphere so far. For how much longer with 70,000 odd potentially very disgruntled owners in the UK that may find their vehicles at the top of the UK 2024 and 2025 most stolen lists and whose insurance as a result will increase by 200-300%, if insurable at all. I hope you take a lesson from Lancia, as you will be aware an otherwise excellent, driver orientated marque, driven out of the UK by its reputation for corrosion and if mentioned now only remembered for being a rust bucket. Is that to be Lexus’s fate when vehicle security is discussed? What do people know about the SC430 now? Most people know it’s the worst car ever made, even though in reality it was one of the best of its time. Audi’s tagline is Vorsprung durch Technik, BMW’s the ultimate driving machine. What is Lexus’s going to be for 2024 and beyond? - Was it stolen? The choice of thieves Uninsurable, Unsellable, stolen, never again! Or are you going to address the CAN bus issue affecting all 2014-2023 models and is it going to be? Lexus - joy for life I will also write personally to these two gentlemen and publish the response- or not as the case may be. I urge all Lexus owners with NX, RX, ES, UX, LC and LS models to take 30 minutes or an hour to write directly to these individuals to complain about Toyota GB / Lexus ignoring the growing CAN injection theft issue. I will also write to the named board members of all the authorised Lexus main dealerships in the UK. I will start including their details on this thread. Toyota GB/ Lexus may not care about owners after a brand new unit is registered, but the organisations that have invested substantially in the infrastructure to sell new, used approved and maintain Lexus vehicles might start getting upset with Toyota GB/Lexus if the brand reputation gets so poor due to this mis-handled CAN bus issue consumers start steering clear of Lexus products. Anyone for a JLR now? They can barely be given away, they certainly can’t be insured for a reasonable amount, if at all, even through JLR’s own insurance scheme!! Is that going to be the fate of Lexus? The more of a public fuss is made, the harder it gets for Toyota GB / Lexus to fail existing owners in its duty of care for its vehicles and the more its reputation degrades.

It's only going to be a potential investment if you don't drive and put it directly into storage for 5-10 years. Even then, unless you own the storage space you will be unlikely to see a profit vs storage cost.

Answering one of my own questions above - just saw this on page 550 of the manual: And while I'm here - Page 99 states how to disable the intrusion and tilt sensor:

Hi all With pointers from various members (farqui, capese21), lots of reading, looking at service manuals, and mustering the confidence to rip apart the interior of my new Lexus Is300h, I have managed to install a front and rear dash cam (the Thinkware F770, £248 when I purchased, quite expensive, if Thinkware want to give me a rebate, I'd be delighted). It's been fuse tapped to the interior fuse box (no auxiliary / 12v cigarette lighter socket), all wiring hidden, none running in the interior, and I believe, safely (no cables running in front of SRS airbag deployment zones, ready to whip me in the head at 500 miles an hour). Having Previously taken my other cars apart, I usually end up with at least a snapped clip or something broken. This time, absolutely nothing. No broken parts, and all assembled as if it had never been taken apart in the first place. Stopping and starting throughout, and solving problems / making decisions as I went (I had no idea where I'd run it at first), meant it took around 3 hours to lay cables / re-assemble the car, and then another couple of hours or so to discreetly fit / mount the two cameras. I used some Fablon / Sticky Back Plastic to make it look like a factory install / to hide it. I've also got full DAB signal still which some had reported they had lost, due to electrical interference. I was considering a ferrite core (if that's what they're called), but have had no need for it. Pictures are not that good, and I didn't take loads, but the process ought to be quite clear with description. For any folk across the pond reading this, it is a right hand drive car! :-) I believe instructions on the web show the fuse box is in the driver footwell, but that is only the case on Left Hand Drive! Very happy with the outcome! =========== PART 1 - LAYING REAR CAMERA CABLING We need to lay the cables. The long cable that runs to the back of the car, to power the rear camera, and then the power cable to the fuse box. I thought at first, that I'd run it above the head of the driver (interior roof trim), but found that running it along the floor was the best way I ran the rear camera cable by starting from the rear view mirror. First, I disconnected to the 12V negative battery terminal in the boot. Just in case air bags wanted to deploy on me! It lost a bunch of settings, but not all of them. It was disconnected for hours. Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed, I assume the electric opener won't work without the battery connected! Next, I removed the A Pillar. Pull at it (not too hard), and it'll begin to come lose. There are three fixing points. There is a safety clip (should the airbag deploy), that prevents the trim from breaking lose and flying into the cabin. This black clip needs rotating 90 degrees, so it can unclip from the white part attached to the trim. The middle clip (half way down) ought to have unclipped itself when you losened the trim. The final clip at the bottom, is held by the plastic adjacent to the air vent / the plastic that sits parallel to the door. Just pull that plastic panel apart slightly, and the third clip holding down the A Pillar should come off. Start running the cable from the middle of the windscreen (poke it into the gap at the top of the windscreen). Use tape to hold the cable to the trim, so it doesn't sit in front of the air bag. Poke the cable between the rubber seal and the plastic to run it down to the footwell. Then, remove the long plastic sill trim that runs parallel to the scuff plate. Underneath, you'll see a bunch of the harness wiring running inside white plastic clips. You can run your rear view cable in here, alongside that, there is plenty of space. I even cable tied mine in, to make it neat. You'll want to keep running it to the back of the car. Unclip the bottom of the large piece of plastic which houses the various driver seatbelt mechanism. Also, remove the rear passenger driver side sill trim, and also the plastic that runs parallel to the driver side rear passenger seat (this last piece is a bit hard to remove - it's the one with the holes in it, where the air flow runs for the rear passenger). With all these pieces removed, you can run the cable all the way to the back, up the side of the driver side rear passenger seat, and up to top of the seat. I then poked the cable in between the trim (use a plastic edge, I used my ice scraper), all the way to the back of the glass, and then ran it up the edge of the rear window. As I did at the front, ran it around the edge, and ended up with the rear cable at the top of the rear window, right in the middle! Any excess lengths of cabling, I looped up and cable tied together. There was plenty of space for me to leave this behind that ventilated plastic trim (by the rear driver side passenger). Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures at this point (started in the afternoon, racing against time, before it went dark). That's the cable running from front to back, to support the dual cams! Great check point! Start re-assembling all the trims. They all should clip back on fairly easily. As mentioned above, the ventiled trim for the rear passenger is a bit difficult, but bear with it. The A Pillar is also a bit funny. You need to remove the black plastic clip that you had to rotate 90 degrees (little notches to push in to release it from the body work). I spent ages trying to push it together at all sorts of angles, before realising it unclipped, and it would absolutely not go back together unless removed. It'll push nice and easily back into the body work after. PART 2 - LAYING POWER CABLE / CONNECTING TO FUSE BOX I removed the A Pillar on the front passenger side, the plastic trim that has the airbag on / off key switch mounted in it, the bottom of the glove compartment (prises apart, use the ice scraper again), and the plastic sill trim, to allow unclipping of the one piece of plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect the cable running to the passenger footwell light too. I ran the cable at funny angles (can't remember all the detail, I sepnt a while debating the best route, but I wanted it perfectly discreet) behind the airbag switch and inside the dash board chassis / frame. I had to loosen a few of the door seals to get accces or to make things fit too, don't be afraid to do that. Again, I used cable ties to hold wiring neatly in place. You need two fuse taps (they are micro, low profile fuses in this car), and used 2A fuses for the tapped circuit. One for Battery (always on / parking mode), and one for ACC On (for driving mode). I really like this cam due to time lapse mode (30 mins video, in two min chunks), good night vision, the built in battery saver (to stop it flattening your battery - no need to spend £50 on something like the Blackvue Power Magic), and the fact it is front and rear. Using a multimeter, I checked which side of the fuse was providing the power, so I didn't put the fuse in the wrong way (See https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/). Wrong way, and a surge could mean the fuse doesn't blow to protect the camera. If I remember, the way my fuse tap was, it means the cable was pointing toward the driver side of the car (away from the front passenger door). That'd mean, left pin / side of the fuse slot providing power. I used the 15A "HAZ" (Hazard) for the always on / battery power (for parking mode), and then the 10A "IG I no.2" for the ACC On (for driving mode) as power sources. Worked perfectly. No interference / issues a week on. The plastic sleeves hosuing the DAB / Rain sensors, and the rear mirror mount, slides up and down. I used this to hold the dash cam cable up to the edge of the windscreen. I had to remove the white fuse box lid, and leave it off. It sits so flush / tightly against the fuses, that there is no room to re-install the it after. I am thinking of buying an additional cover, and cutting bits out, to fit around the fuse taps. I'd not like water in the fuse area from passenger feet. Neither having it kicked. Either that cap being cut up, or a metal frame screwed to the interior plastic, to prevent a foot smashing my fuse box and damaging my fuse taps. Or both. Yet to do this however. Earthed it on the bolt attached to the fuse box (black frame, silver bolt) - visible in the below pictures (image 08) PART 3 - MOUNTING CAMERAS As mentioned previously, I used sticky back plastic / fablon (rip off, £6 a roll in Hobby Craft for loads, I need about 30cm squared max). I cut it to the size of the front and rear cam, and stuck it to the windscreen (a bit of alcohol to clean the window first). What I didn't do, and wish I did, was hair dryer it, so it would melt a bit, and really bond itself to the windscreen. Can see small air bubbles from the outside if you really look, but most people won't. I wanted to do this, so the cam wouldn't get stolen. If it looks factory fit, it's usually less tempting. Great idea from capese21, I saw on his thread from a couple of years ago! Thanks! Also ran a thick strip parallel to the rear view mirror mount, to which I ran the cables up against, to the edge of the winscreen. I mounted the cameras onto this using the provided VHB tape in the camera kit (so difficult to remove the plastic bit to expose the sticky bit - cut it with a knife to get it started). Solidly mounted in place. Cables all connected up, I re-connected the 12V battery, and powered on. Be careful to check which way the rear camera is orientated before sticking it down (I've read people sticking it on upside down, and having a hard time removing it to correct it - the VHB is so strong). Before mounting the camera, I used the Android App, to view the camera in Live View mode (so I could ensure positioned correctly). Front camera is mounted off centre, on the driver side. It's out of view behind the mirror. Not ideal, but there are other things in the way. Smack bang in the middle would have been perfect. I configured my camera to shut off at 12.1V. Whilst car is on, the camera shows it is receiving about 14.4V. I set it to shut off after 6 hours, but as I've had no flat battery, tempted to set it to 24 hours. If the voltage gets too low, it'll shut off anyway. My advice: Take it slowly, leave plenty of time, don't rush the install. Flawlessly working. Any questions, let me know, I'll do my best to help. Pictures below, roughly in order. They should help a bit! Matt

Yes unfortunately on next power cycle it has disconnected again, redid the steps but next power cycle back to the grey icon, so the reset it is going to have to be ...