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It's probably by design. Indy's will actually try to fix stuff. Lexus will not be fixing anything, they just replace stuff. Perfect example is when i had a health check done and they wanted to charge £400 per caliper because they didn't move as they were supposed to. All it needed was £25 replacement slider pins and a bit of elbow grease. Did it myself in the end.

Just in Normandy atm. On a goat cheese farm. Drive to Bordeaux area on Saturday.

I felt it might hijack this so I started it's own thread finchy40 - Gamble?

If you have always used ACC and then revert to ‘Normal’ CC then have your wits very about you😳

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/ePyMDu7qK8nbx1pq/

The filter doesn’t do anything for the interior. The seats look really grubby but I’m guessing that they’re ok in reality.

You should be OK at £2800. I'm not mechanically minded but the SC430 engine if properly serviced and maintained is good for 700.000 miles - Yes 700K! One tip I have is that before my last MOT I overfilled the oil on mine to just over the Max level. That probably would not harm but the owners manual says not to do this. I dipped and wiped the dipstick about 30 times until the level showed "Max". At the MOT station they guys said that the car would not pass on emissions so they had to run the car for about a hour until some more oil had burnt off then the reading dropped to a Pass.

A steering lock would have prevented that.

I always ask my Indy service guy to check the calipers at each service …… I’m prior reading over the years on here that calipers never feature in the Service Schedules ….. at Lexus and possibly all others too Calipers are really very expensive to replace when simple annual check and servicing of them adds very little to your annual maintenance bill ……. done by someone competent and knows what they’re doing of course 😄 Ive never had calipers actually replaced in decades of motoring and many 00’s of 000s of smiles miles in my Ls400s 🤩 Malc

Just bought one myself.

Cruise mostly set to 130kph.

The video I linked to above is incorrect. I've mixed up the code numbering. Sorry. I have read online though, that there is a conical filter associate with this valve which also clogs. I'll be checking that out in the morning..

Admiral now has all the grades available to select. Direct Line still has nothing!

Finally gave up with the Ghost. Despite 4 visits and refits/mods it was still discharging the battery. Autowatch have apparently had problems fitting them on some Lexus and RAV 4's. Had it taken out and had a Shadow system fitted. No issues since,

Great work Bob - when can I drop mine off to you? It came back from its bi-annual trip to the spray booth last week.

The trip computer gives miles left….but it’s only a guide try not put it to the test 😮

In my Ls400s they’re 85.1 ltrs tanks and when the orange light pops up there’s often 100 miles reserve ……… lasts a day or two 😄 Malc

Or from a dealer that first word might be …… “ concours “ 🤣 Malc

He means a Warning Triangle Malc 😁 At least he had the sense to use his triangle and can vault over the barrier to the footpath. Nice scenic place to break down Also, cameras will have seen him so the Police/Traffic Office should be on-scene fairly quickly. They are always pretty quick on bridges as the potential for structural damage is high.

Well then, with £6k spare in you’re pocket you might just have enough to sort it all out 👍 Malc

Laughing as one guy is obviously much taller judging by the legs. Blind as a bat, deaf as a post and unfortunately dumb is now in the equation.

See if you can trace the wiring back to see what it does 👍🏻 Pop the heated seat switch out and lift out the centre consul wood will help …no screws it just lifts out with a bit of fiddling.

They don’t have a switch in the armrest 👍🏻 battery drain can be an issue with some examples , tracker fitted by dealer will kill a battery in a week ! Possible boot lights staying in etc Try locking it with the key, not the alarm will help.

Well I'm in Saxon Street so right next to Cheveley! Very difficult to price these up.

Can also use Google lens to translate. Then you get used to recognising what the menu is. Also you can unplug your ETC.

Thank you for answer. I dont think that work can be more expensive than the car is worth. I dont know prices in UK, but LS in Poland costs around 70k PLN and workday of mechanic around 800-1000PLN. I was thinking about your idea earlier, just to keep AC only on the front. I will not have cooler box, but it's not necessary to live..

That's strange. Now two red for sale on Autotrader at slightly different prices. Different reg. Different cars looking at the seat belts. However, in both there is one pic of a guys legs in the driving seat wearing exactly the same trousers? Or is it time for me to go to the opticians again?

Bit of T Cut as well, it'll be fine.

This is a wierd end result. The mechanic put my car on the ramp to check the leak and was left confused 😕 . He said there isnt any leak on the rear diff! I couldn't believe that so he called me under and I seen it for myself. He wiped all around the pinion seal and it is dry as a bone. I asked about the oil all over the top of the under chassis and he told me that looks like someone has sprayed grease up there and that it didnt smell like diff oil. Another thing I found odd is that I received a reminder email from Lexus telling me I have outstanding repairs on my car, funny thing is there was no mention on the "urgent repair needed" which was the diff oil leak and instead told me to bring it in as the tpms sensor was missing 🤣 even though I had a aftermarket sensor installed a year ago and there is no warning light lit up. I have now lost all trust in the Lexus garage I have been using for 3 years and wanted to ask if anyone else has experienced imaginary work from Lexus.

Hi Ben, I don’t pretend to know about the different oils but doing a quick search on Snow leopard oils I found the document below on their product along with an explanation of the ND11 oil type from another site. it would seem you need MRL85 from Snow Leopard range if I have read it correctly but I’d check with your intended AC specialist to confirm. What is ND-oil 11? ND-oil 11 is a so called Polyol Ester Oil. (POE oil) ND-oil 11 is used in the DENSO electric driven scroll compressors, because POE oils have a very high isolation resistance. POE oil is less hygroscopic, compared with PAG oils. However, POE- and PAG oil react differently on water ingress. https://primalec.co.uk/resources/Primalec-Air-Conditioning-Solutions-En.pdf hope this is of some help. Kev

Sounds pretty damn good for a V8 ☝️ Malc

340 miles driven today. Staying in Normandy for a few nights now. Still quarter of a tank left. Bit of a leak in the boot just under rear screen.

Video made sense, I would think applying the 0000 wire wool, the real trick is to not over-pressure. I have clayed windscreens before and it is pretty good, so next time might give it the wire wool treatment and leave it at that. As other posts say glass is hydroscopic it is only dirt that makes the water cling, and the reason why you get champagne bubbles. If you had a 100% clean glass with bubbly in it, then you should get no bubbles as there is no dirt to cause nucleation. Does this mean to really check how clean the screen is you should chuck a bottle of Dom Perignon over your Lexus🤑

Hi Malc, was wondering about this too, however it looks like this doesn't apply to all imported cars after all. There's a very clean, imported LS460 currently on Autotrader that's got all the buttons and menus in English, in fact the only thing that gives it away is the speedo in Km/H! 🙂 https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202403137524066

I’m remembering there’s a great deal, ICE just one thing besides SatNav screen, maps, buttons and screen hieroglyphics to be changed to bring such an imported car to “ normal “ UK supplied car features I wasn’t able to track down where I could achieve what seemed impossible at that time, August last year Often superb underused clean and well maintained cars BUT one having to be satisfied with Japanese nuances Malc

Brake/suspension cleaning and painting all finished 😎

Hi David, not entirely sure as the mechanic did it and I wasn't there, but here's someone else who did a similar job (linked from this very forum):

@shapiro @binnocorp Here's one I took today. Still trying to figure out the best angle to take pictures of this beauty.

Getting key #2 on thursday ( got the NX in late oct-23) 😀

8 billion people on the planet, I wonder just how many people there are, probably tens of millions who spend their entire lives trying to scam, steal, defraud, burglarise, kill, assault, traffic, attack, bully, discriminate and generally do not and never will contribute anything positive or good to this world. They will all answer for their actions and need some sun factor 10,000 where they are headed.

I'm intrigued by the " flare tube " ......... for an emergency at sea 🤣 Malc

What a surprise; call from dealer yesterday cancelling appointment to fit protection plate. Reason- they don’t exist unless you have an RX or NX. Add in the fact that the Lexus + app has not worked properly since about October 23 and my conclusion is that Lexus just do not care.

But the 1994 Celsior C-F spec I had did have a screen, OK it was really bad but never the less had one. Other extras include A fender pole, a windscreen washer rinse reservoir, a flare tube, a sat nav that constantly tries to take you to Tokyo and wool seats that bleat when you sit on them

I haven’t worn out my Mk1 nor Mk3 yet …….. I couldn’t possibly graduate to a Mk4 😄 Malc

I have a Mark 4 in 2012 - but never knew this feature

It took me over 5 years of owning a Mk3 and then a few years of Mk4 before I reckon I knew all the hidden secrets, some I found on my own, but quite a few via this forum. The luxury barge that keeps giving

Hey Folks, Thought I'd would write up a quick guide on how to remove the front bumper and headlight on IS300h, but the principle will apply to the IS200t/IS250 MK3. Tools required: 1 x small flat head screwdriver 1 x Philips screwdriver 1 x 10mm socket and ratchet 1 x pliers (optional) Step 1: 8 x Red circle = push down then pull the whole clip out 1 x Orange circle = use a flat head screwdriver to pull the tab then pull clip out Now lift the plastic trim and place to one side. Step 2: 6 x 10mm bolt/screw at the front of the car - remove them Step 3: 1 x Red circle = 10mm bolt/screw 1 x Orange circle = use a flat head screwdriver to pull the tab then pull clip out Step 4: 1 x Green circle = turn horizontal and pull out. Only this one needs to be removed. 1 x Orange circle = use a flat head screwdriver to pull the tab then pull clip out Step 5: 1 x Red circle = Pull the liner to expose the 10mm bolt/screw ####################################### Now repeat step 4 & 5 on the other side of the car ####################################### Step 6: 3 x Red circle = Philips screws + 10mm bolt in the middle 4 x Orange circle = use a flat head screwdriver to pull the tab then pull clip out 4 x Blue circle = these were already missing on my car, but I'm sure you can figure this out. Step 7: Apply blue tape ideally but since i ran out of it i used plain masking time just long enough to protect the paint. Pull the bumper with a tug Step 8: It should look like this Step 9: Now continue to pull the bumper forward, it will help to place a box underneath to support the bumper as i did not fully remove the bumper. Step 10 - If removing headlight: 1 x Red circle = 10mm bolt front right (if working on O/S headlight) 1 x Red circle = 10mm bolt top You will now need to lift the headlight tab 1 x Red circle = 10mm bolt on side of bumper retainer Step 11: Disconnect the 2 headlight connectors And carefully pull the headlight forward and lift out Step 12: Headlight is now removed 😃 Step 13: ############################################### Insert new headlight and repeat the whole process in reverse ############################################### Here are some comparison photos of the old vs new headlight. I had to transfer the indicator cable to the new headlight and the main bulb power unit. The new headlight (bottom) is transparent on the bottom half unlike the sold black on the old one. OLD: NEW: Hope this helps everyone 🙂

Respray rings alarm bells with me, sounds like a rattle can job from Halfords. Bear in mind most dealerships don't have a bodyshop facility. I would be asking for a professional refurbishment of the wheel, also needs to be properly checked for any structural damage.

After days of frustration since doing the OTA update to Navigation Services and Voice Services and having to give my agreement before every journey, I am now finally up and running. I complicated things for myself by deciding that now would also be a good time to change from the original Lexus Link app (which I was very happy with) to the Lexus Link Plus app (see the "App Version Please" thread if you're interested in the details) but I got there in the end. In summary: I deleted the phone apps and their cache. I forced Lexus Link Plus v2.5.2 onto my phone. I reset the settings in the Infotainment screen. I had to do this 3 times! On the third time, a different QR code was displayed and there was a third option to agree to (previously only 2 agreement options were showing). After completing all the options, I now have a car that doesn't need my agreement every time I get into it (ie the connectivity arrows are staying blue and not greyed out) and the app is showing the trip data and the car's location for the last two journeys. Unfortunately, I no longer seem able to download my Trips history; either from the app or from the portal. Anybody know if this is possible?

Ok, so an update on this. I managed to change the cooling fan with the second hand unit. I tested the second hand unit first before starting the work by plugging 12v power directly to each motor. The drivers side one was spinning at first but I could see it tries to move. So then I went to move it by hand to see if it spins freely, but it seems a little stiff so I sprayed electrical cleaning spray and rotated it and spun it by hand until it started moving freely then tried again. And it was working well. With the fan replacement, I drained just under 1L of coolant from the bottom drain of the radiator while keeping the pressure cap open. After that I was able to disconnect the upper radiator hose which only had a tiny bit of coolant in it that I was able to catch with a cloth. After that the fan is relatively easy to take out but the PITA part of it is how tight around the corners it is. So sliding it up becomes an issue. So what I did was removed the entire airbox which gave me too to angle the radiator as I was lifting it out and it's just a matter of fishing it out. When it comes to putting the new fan in, the trick is to put it in an angle starting by putting the airbox side in first otherwise it just won't go down. So all done. One thing is that in the beginning when I was trying to take the fan out and figure out how to, a few times the fan housing scored and bent some fins on the inside of the radiator. Not that many but enough to look like an eyesore but luckily it's inside. I'm assuming bent fins don't cause leaks right? Considering my original OEM radiator had most of the fins bent and it never leaked there. But I think I'm just being a little paranoid