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Hi and welcome to the Loc The Ls400 is probably the best car I have ever had, I now drive an sc430, but the Ls400 is for me still the best Lexus ever made. Regarding the battery issue, I had the same issue on an Ls400 I had, it was the alternator, went to a company called Foreign Car Spares here in Birmingham, they supplied an fitted one of another ls400 they were breaking for £50, and job done

Yes, welcome Jonny. Your car looks great. As you may have gathered from other threads on here, electrical issues aren't uncommon but often have very simple causes, e.g. weak batteries. In my case it's caused by not using the car much, and is worse at this time of year than in summer. But it sounds like you won't have that problem once the current issue's sorted. Mine is the best long-distance car I've ever had, and I usually get 30+ mpg on a long run.

You need to leave HVAC in Auto. It will then decide what is needed via numerous sensors in cabin. If you manually switch to recirc air, your windows will mist up. Use quick demist function until cleared, then switch back to Auto. It the most efficient way of keeping cabin warm/cool and mist free.

So the last few days the CT has decided to have bad engine starting from cold. A lot of shuddering and misfiring then gradually clears. Drives great after this. It makes a hell of noise and is quite worrying. I got a feeling it's the EGR valve at fault ( quite a common problem apparently also to the Prius). Obviously Lexus aren't helpful and just want your £132 hourly diagnostic charge. He did say they've had a few of them recently with this problem and it "could " be the EGR or other things. A new valve is £260 so I'm going to have a go at cleaning it out at the weekend with some Carb cleaner. I've watched a few videos of this on YouTube and seems straight forward to do. Maybe after 72K it's getting a bit coked up? I did put it in Sport mode last night and gave a good hard drive to clear it a bit and today I didn't get poor starting. It's quite well known on the Prius forum and has good results after. Anything to save a few pounds [emoji4] I'll report back with the result. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't get too excited folks, if your IS250 is anything like mine the mpg is 3 mpg out on the high side, best I've achieved in the last 45,000 miles was a true 40 mpg. The best conditions are in summer (more efficient) and making the most of cruise control and staying off the brakes when safe to do so.

Agreed. This is my first exposure to this type of automatic transmission, coming from the common brake-band/clutch type. The eCVT is so smooooth, then add the artificially created ratios in Sport mode, best of both worlds. Plus must be more reliable, easily maintained considering there's no engaging, disengaging of cogs or friction bands

Depends I suppose on your daily usage, average mileage and if you have a heated Aircraft hanger. The more cars you own, the likelyhood is that they will suffer the consequences of patchy usage. If not garaged then brake parts start to deteriorate, etc. If used by rotation regularly and on long trips then should be OK. How do you decide which one to use? Conundrum!

Loooooooooool sorry the way pic was taken its up now loool

The original spec Dunlop's are dunlop sport 270 in 235/55 r19. I changed to michelin latitude tour hp as they are widely used in the states on the RX and they rave about them. I can see why as they are practically perfect. I think I got them for £123 each and £50 for fitting. I believe they might have gone up in price since then however

Do you know if it worked from day one? When you say its given up....is it not demisting at all ...or are there patches/lines that are clearing? The very top few lines won't as they form the aerial for the radio. The door mirrors and HRW operate at the same time. Door mirror misting can be seen evaporating off pretty quick on mine...its obvious if they are working. If it's patchy on the HRW you could try having a looksee. Any evidence of any stickers being removed prior to your purchase? Could there have been any after market tints removed? On a close look any signs of breaks in the element? These are just best guesses at this point. Don't go digging around too much as I'm guessing you still have an active purchase warranty period in force. So let them sort it after Christmas break.

Hi Jonny and welcome to the LOC, we are a friendly bunch so please dont hold back asking questions big or small should you have any problems with your car. We always welcome ideas on how to overcome problems with our cars but as they are the finest cars in the universe they dont go wrong that often. I am sorry you are having problems with your Lexus at the moment but I am sure the membership will be very helpful. You have bought a great car and one that converts well to LPG. We always love to see pictures of your cars so don't be shy. Happy Lexus Motoring. Mike. Bluesman.

I always have rev counter permanently set to on. Can't be doing with that ECO meter.

Well guys I have finally given up my ct 200h and traded it in for a 'Mercedes Eclass cdi' and have to admit I'm not disappointed. I know it's a totally different car by comparison but obviously the smaller car was not for me. I've had my gripes on this forum and have received loads of good an positive advise from other members to help with some of the problems I encountered. I will keep checking the forum from time to time as a matter of interest and thanks to you all and wish you a merry Christmas. Michael

I couldn't imagine myself in anything other than a Lexus. Best rated cars in the world - Official. Good luck with the Merc & Merry Christmas.

... and run your A/C regularly regardless, to keep it lubricated and happy.

I've done over 100,000 miles on Bridgestone Potenza tyres. Now they're discontinued I went for Michelin Latitude Tour HP as they'd been well spoken of on here. I can't believe the difference ! Wish I'd have changed tears ago. Feels like a different car. Alan

Hello Jonny and welcome to the LOC. With the new battery discharging so quickly overnight it sounds like a heavy current draw from somewhere, even leaving an interior light on all night is unlikely to completely flatten the battery. The best way to determine parasitic current draw is by using a clamp type ammeter on the main battery lead, from what I remember this should be around 18 - 25mA You can also use a conventional digital multimeter set to measure current but be aware these generally only measure a maximum of 10 Amps, there are plenty of tutorials for the safe procedure on YouTube. If your parasitic current draw is well in excess of the normal figure then begin diagnosis by removing individual fuses and rechecking the current draw each time, if it drops to the normal level when a particular fuse is pulled then the circuit the fuse supplies is the one to investigate further. If removing non of the fuses makes any difference then the alternator could be suspect with a faulty regulator or diode pack or you may have a damaged cable going to earth although the latter is usually obvious by the smoke it produces! Although unlikely check your boot light is going off when it is closed, at one time this meant someone being shut in there but simply place your camera phone in there on video record mode and then check the playback. Just out of curiosity were you aware of this problem when you bought the car?

Hi Stephen your car looks really great ,same colour as my is 250 so I,m biased I think you will get a much easier ride ,especially over the potholes !! .Just as a matter of interest what have you done about the TPMS system ?

The videos I've seen on YouTube only show removal and cleaning of the intake EGR pipe, not the valve or cooler. In order to remove the valve and cooler, you would need to remove the 2 m8 nuts from the exhaust manifold pipe and the 2 m8 studs and the gasket. Then to remove the egr, it is held on by 2 m8 nuts (on studs - 1 in the cylinder head and 1 in the cam carrier) and 1 m8 bolt going into the head cover. Un clip the harness from the valve and job done.

I've no real issue with EVs in principle but at the minute, improving or not, they are no more sustainable than any other form of propulsion and batteries end up as highly toxic waste. The cars are heavier, don't handle as well due to the weight. The answer has to be in a sustainable fuel source and people have yet to develop the mindset that electricity is not the primary fuel source, but the final power source for the transmission. Efficiency has to be called into question as there remain losses between primary fuel source and final drive, so no, I don't see it as "green" at all, quite the reverse in fact. Trouble is, we (and other countries) have had successive governments backing the wrong horse, diesel, for several decades, and putting no real research into less polluting and more sustainable methods. Honda, I believe, did a lot of research into hydrogen fuel cells a few years back and even developed a car that ran purely on hydrogen fuel cells powering the motors. I believe that Clarkson even tested such a vehicle. Little has been heard since, as the rush for diesels took the wind out of many car makers' sails. I never bought the diesel argument and we're now full circle back to petrol engines being the lesser of two evils. We'll see what the future holds, but Lexus, I do believe, have developed one of the only really honest hybrid systems, even if the compromises of significant mass, poorer handling and increased manufacturing costs are ever present. They have to be admired for trying.

My own outlook on this, although the hybrid aspect does pose an additional 'quirk': We bought our RX300 back at the end of May. It's an '05 plate so it's 11 years old, had 79.5k on the clock and we paid £5,500 for it from an independent trader (rather than main dealer) who gave us 6 months warranty on it. Main dealers charge such extortionate amounts of money for servicing/repairs and warranties that there comes a point where the owner, quite rightly, thinks that it's just not worth it and moves away from the main stealers. Our particular car has 7 years Lexus history and then regular paperwork from a couple of indy garages, so it has a full history, just not a full Lexus history. This didn't put us off in any way, shape or form because we intend to keep it until it dies and gets carted off to that great car park in the sky, nor would it have put us off if the intention was to keep it for a year or two and then resell. For what we paid, and probably up to the amount you're looking to spend, I wouldn't be bothered about a full Lexus history and I certainly wouldn't bother with a Lexus warranty and all the cost involved in having to have it serviced at Lexus main dealers and what have you - the only fly in the ointment would be the hybrid system. If you could get the Lexus hybrid check/warranty without the other stuff, I'd do that. If not, I'd be looking for an indy garage who could handle hybrids and go there instead. What you have to remember is that Lexus are just cars. Luxury cars, admittedly, but just cars. To use a few examples from above: - A mirror replacement can cost as much as £450 from a main dealer And if the car is two or three years old you'll probably pay it, but if it's over seven years old, why would you? Just get one from a breakers yard or Ebay - A reconditioned audio unit (they are sealed units and include the 6xCD changer) costs around £1500 to replace Same answer - breakers yard/Ebay or put a Pioneer or whatever unit in instead. My Nissan Maxima QX 3.0 V6 developed a fault with the Mass Airflow Sensor and Nissan wanted over £300 for a new one, whereas I got a brand new aftermarket pattern part for £25 from Ebay and it worked a treat. @Britprius has posted this over in the GS forum in the last hour: I have just picked up a pair of GS450H rear discs made by Quinton Hazel for the sum of £20 the pair from Ebay. Strangely I bought a pair of rear discs for my Prius 6 years ago for the same price from the same seller. And while I'm on about brakes, Lexus (I believe) will charge more than £350 for a brand new caliper even if it's just the slide pins seized, whereas somewhere like Car Parts Direct will sell you a refurbished one for less than half that if that's what you need. You can even send them your own caliper and they'll completely refurbish it for you. The point is (cos I've waffled on long enough), owning a Lexus or any other prestige car doesn't necessarily need to be very expensive. For the last 35 years I've always had top-of-the-range cars (Mk 1 Granada 3.0 Coupe and Mk 2 2.8i Ghia X; Rover 827 SLi and 800 series Sterling amongst others) but only when they got to about 8 or 9 years old, none of which have ever been serviced or worked on in any way at main stealers because it simply wasn't worth spending that sort of money on that age of car. Plus, I prefer to give my business to local, independent garages and mechanics in my own local community.

No my point is that you need to drive Lexus hybrid more gently than diesel, to achieve good MPG. That is manly because Lexus are very heavy cars and start stop fashion hurt economy much more than on say Volvo S40, equally you should never do 65+ MPH if you want good fuel economy, at 90MPH Fuel economy on any Lexus hybrid drops like a rock... And yes you can say one should not drive at 90 anyway, but that is not my point.. Diesel woudl be at it's best at that speeds 70-90MPH, while hybrid has ceiling. That is why my IS250 returns better MPG, than IS/RC300h on the motorway.

My normal Lexus is currently with a Lexus dealer and I have a 300 Executive as my loan car. I've had it for about 3 days and I'm very impressed. The interior quality is superb and many of the silly Japanese traits that annoy the hell out of me in my Lexus are no longer present in the 300 Execute. I even managed to get the sat nav working!! ;) This morning I managed to work out how to reset the trip computer. I found the reset button whilst looking for the now non-existent fuel flap release button :) Anyway, a 1 hour trip saw 49.8 mpg (mainly motorway, 70mph+). Impressed.

i have never understood the whole purpose of keyless tech. what was soo wrong with having physical keys to unlock and start your car? keyless technology just doesnt make sense as one still needs to carry the key fob with them in order to access the vehicle or in this case use radio waves amplifier. walk up to the vehicle touch the door handle wait a second or two before door unlocks. old school remote keys, can unlock a car about 5-10 feet away from the car and walk straight to open the door without having to wait few seconds whilst holding the door handle for radio signals to link together. someone might argue but what happens when you have a handful of stuffs and cant trigger the remote to open the doors? well the solution is to put the shopping bags down and trigger the remote its that simple and takes next to no effort. Again how much effort does it take to insert a key into the barrel and turn it?? next to no effort.. just like pressing a push start button so again what benefit is the keyless tech bringing to the table? with my old school keys i lock the car and check its locked by pulling the handle with key less tech there is no way of confirming your car is locked as door will always open once you walk up to it and pull the handle so how does one confirm their car is indeed secure? so after spending ££'s on a car manufactures now expect key less car owners to spend ££ again on steering locks and pouches to store the fobs. last time i used a sterring lock was when i had my 1995 Renault Clio 15 years ago. steering locks on a car costing £40-50k is ridiculous in my opinion. Even the Lexus LFA which is the expensive Lexus ever comes with an 'old school' physical key. LFA engineers knew keyless tech served no purpose.

My 2004 is200 se auto - 68000 miles just passed mot today. Still drives like new.

Maybe I'll use mine as a coffin (hopefully a few years off), and enough space in the boot for my vinyl record collection, and then in 300 years time someone will wonder what kind of weird cult did this car owner belong to. On the other hand might leave it as part of my 'estate', should raise enough money to pay for 2 house bricks as down payment towards my kids 150 year mortgage (or whatever it may be in the future)!!!!

Teenagers are programmed to disagree with everything.

Teenagers would disagree.... Great for poster car.

The sides are terrific as is the back, the interior is awesome and I would love to spend some time in that but I still cannot get my head around that front, it just makes you look as though your screaming and shouting.

The pictures above are the real deal, the concept is slightly different in size etc

Are you planning on waiting until you are dead first?

below is a quote off one of the ct forums,is this anything similar to your issue "on start up really noisy then goes back to normal as if nothing has happened and it only happens when its cold , got a call from lexus today and they said they are going to replace the intake manifold per lexus service bulletin tsb-0004-13 "

Not so sure on petrol cars but symptoms on diesels with blocked/jammed EGR valves are loss of power and lots of exhaust smoke. For the cost of DIY labour (zero) and a can of carb cleaner I would do the same as you. Mine will never fail........it doesn't have EGR.

Diesel cars reek, the sooner they are off the planet the better. Driving behind a smoking diesel is not good for anyone and walking the footpaths of our cities and towns is obvious from a few of your senses what cars are passing by. As for your 220D, should sell it while it is still drivable is my opinion and look for something else.

Had my CT for over a year and I've only just noticed the footwell lights thanks to this post! I noticed the blue overhead lights but never knew they changed colour.

My current "From Refuel" readout is showing 49.2mpg with a quarter of the tank gone. That's with a mixture of city (up to 30mph) and m-way miles (up to 80mph) in normal mode. Anyway, I've chosen my car which I love the drive, handling, comfort and looks so whatever I get to the gallon it doesn't matter as I have it for the next 3 years. The day I drive a car to maximise the fuel efficiency rather than enjoy the experience is the day I hand in my keys and get a bus pass. Drive it how you want to (within reason) and enjoy but above all, be safe out there (Hill Street Blues reference for those old enough to remember)

I'm easy on all my cars. It's just with the IS, when I use it, it barely gets chance to warm up before it's switched off. Now the Mrs's IS does see a better mpg (at least on the dash readout) but I don't track the real time fuel expenses on that so can't give a real time comparison. I'll take mine for a good run and feedback but I'm positive it'll do well.

Gen 2 GS430 Sport here

20% was to dark for me... See mine at 35%