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All quite sad. Fat cats getting fatter and destroying the planet at the same time. Best bit is that their latest marketing push (the electric car) makes it sound like they are doing the plant a favour. What a laugh!

Photography started as a hobby for me but turned into a business. That sort of spoilt the enjoyment for me 😢 I shot my last wedding two weeks ago, so hopefully I might get the passion back 😀 I don’t shoot landscapes, but I’ll try to keep with the theme. Here’s a pic of my local town (using my phone). And a quickly pic of the motor -

Blakey Ridge - North Yorkshire. You’d love it 🙂 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is, PAYDAY50. £21 for Pagid or Brembo. Eicher are even cheaper but I've no idea what those are like...

Not sure it’s that simple. I live in the Cotswolds and the roads are poor. Roads are generally bordered by high hedges which hampers visibility. Roads are also very very busy. Good roads outside of Wales and Scotland are few and far between.

I got the dreaded Check Hybrid, Check VSC and Check EBC warning lights. Fault code readings P0A80 Hybrid and P3017 (battery cell block number 7 fault). Having gotten a quote for around €6000 to fix it, I decided to do it myself. I ordered a battery cell on ebay for €45.00 delivered to Ireland. Tools needed: Socket set with 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Flat head screwdriver, long nose pliers and a multi meter to read voltage. (You may also need a slow trickle 12v battery charger, I'll explain later). Time needed: about 4 hours, more if your connections a very dirty. 1: Remove ALL carpeted paneling from the boot (trunk if you're in the US). This is done by inserting the flathead screwdriver into the black plastic rivets and popping them out. Remove the boot flooring too, just leave the tool tray in place. You will need the 10mm socket to remove the rear boot floor luggage anchor points once you've popped open their plastic covers. The upper hanging points need to be squeezed to remove. Disconnect the power supply to the light on the right hand panel. 2: Remove the orange circuit breaker on the HV battery by sliding to the right and then pulling towards you. 3: Remove the black air duct on the bottom of the HV battery by popping the 2 black plastic rivets. 4: Unplug the power supply to the white cooling fan on the upper right of the HV battery and remove the 2 nuts holding on the fan. This should allow the 2 upper black ducting to move sufficiently to be able to remove them. 5: Open the panel covering the 2 Orange Cables (3 x 8mm nuts) and disconnect the 2 orange cables, (you can tape them up with electrical tape if you so wish). Pull back the rubber cover on the Black cable and unbolt that too. You should now look something like this: 6: Disconnect the cable running from the HV battery to the 12v lead battery. Continue to remove the 12v battery by disconnecting the +ive and -ive terminals and the white connector plugs attaching it the the HV battery. Also need to take off the temp sensor and the vent hose on the 12v battery. Remove the 12v battery support bracket and the battery tray itself. 7: Remove the last 2 bits of black ducting that was clamped by the 12v battery tray. 8: Remove the white tubing on the right of the HV battery. 9: Remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the base of the HV battery in place, 2 on each side. 10: You need to unbolt the nuts hidden behind the back seat headrests. 11: Pull the rear seats forward enough to remove the large plastic panel in the center between the rear seats and the boot wall, its hidden behind the fireproofing fabric. Use this panel cover to hold the seats away from the boot wall by wedging it between seats and wall. 12: Pull back the fireproofing to reveal 2 smaller access panels covered by a black sticky rubber square. Now remove the 3 12mm nuts holding the HV battery to the boot wall. 13: Now the tricky bit, lift the HV battery over the bolts in the boot and slide it out. (I recommend putting cardboard on the tool tray to avoid scratching when sliding the HV battery). If you are strong enough you can lift the HV battery out on your own, if not get help, it weighs about 50 kilos. Your boot should now look like this with the access panels behind the seats visible: You should also have this, I placed mine on some cardboard on my kitchen table: 14: Take off the HV battery cover by opening all the 10mm nuts, and a few 8mm. unclip the black cable while taking off the three cover panels. 15: Unclip the black plastic covering on both sides of the HV battery to reveal the 8mm connector nuts in the orange casing. 16: Number the cells 1 to 40 using a permanent marker. Use your multi meter to get a reading across each of the 40 individual cells, i.e. one lead on the +ive terminal of the cell and the other on the -ive, and record your findings, as you can see cell 28 was low for me: 17: Pull back the rubber vent tubing running along the top of the HV battery until to get beyond your bad cell/cells. 18: Remove the white end panel holding the cells in place: 19: Remove the 80 x 8mm nuts in the orange casing and clean if necessary. I used bleach and some sand paper to clean all nuts a copper plates, if you're gonna do it - do it right). 20: Remove the 8mm nuts holding each cell in place underneath until you reach your bad cell (this will probably involve removing the support leg and the converter assembly unit below the HV battery: 21: Good cells look like this Bad ones like this: 22: Start replacing your cells back into the HV battery, it doesn't matter what order and you can't mess up polarity as it only screws in on one side. I put my new cell in last in case it was a dud. (If your new cell is of a lower or higher voltage use a slow trickle 12v battery charger to get it to the same voltage as the other cells. 23: WATCH THE TEMP SENSORS UNDER THE BATTERY CELLS (3 of them), MAKE SURE YOU CLIP THEM ON AS YOU GO. See the black plastic clip peeping out here: 24: That's it you're done, just reverse everything to put in back in. Mind your back and don't bother touching cell 1 and 40 at the same time if you have the orange connector put back on. Good Luck!

so car now almost back together just waiting for reolacement ML amplifier However suspension now all refitted car test driven no grunts and groans handles well and brakes well . couple of pics attached not the best as i was so engrossed in putting it all together that I totally forgot Re assembly time from start to test drive 3 hours 48 mins and that was with endless coffee breaks all torqued up to right lbs and will recheck all in a few days new set up came from Taiwan ..Paid Wednesday UK time in the evening all arrived at my premises this morning at 11,30 am... Superb Service

Hello all, I have recently purchased a 2001 GS300. This car is very much a project for me - and a venture in to Japanese cars from my principal hobby car brand of choice - BMW. I own a '98 BMW 740i which has been my main hobby to date, but have always hankered after a Lexus, from teenage years and onward. It was purchased using my usual rule of trying to find something interesting for under a grand... enter the car in question: It has pretty high miles - 184k and a complete lack of stamped service history, with the notable exception of a cambelt change at a Lexus main dealer at 160k miles. Engine oil is reasonably clean, transmission functions as intended - but I bought with my eyes well and truly open, which leads me to the discoveries... I have a pathological fear of rust, so first thing was to strip of all the sill covers and asses things down below. Here's a couple of shots of the rear jacking points as I found them: NSR: OSR: Given 17 years on the road and some likely abuse through being jacked improperly, I was happy to find that the corrosion is just surface stuff. I've hammered the pinch welds straight again, scrubbed everything down, and given the length of the affected areas a coating with POR-15 (https://www.por15.com/) and stonechip primer: I don't have pictures of the final product, but basically any grey area was covered with black stonechip - and with the colour coded sill covers on, this area isn't visible - so I'm not fussed about the difference in colour. I've scrubbed and treated all 4 jacking points onthe car, and any area on the length of the sill that looked like it was rusting. Unfortunately, the same couldn’t be said of the inner wheel wells, and I was able to push holes in them in the area where they meet the sill section – thankfully the rot doesn’t affect the sills– so I got the wheel wells inspected by a local underbody welder whom I trust – and repaired wherever rust was found: Looking from the hole down the sill (!): As before, the sill looks good, just the wheel wells not so much! I plan to get some waxoyl and a flexible applicator and thoroughly treat the inside of the sills once I have the car back from the body shop. I’ve also found some curious examples of previous owners/those in their employ attempting to hide faults – rather than fix them. Can you see what’s missing in this shot of the rear of the instrument cluster? Yes – the telltale bulbs for the VSC system have been removed. Putting replacement bulbs in immediately showed up that the system was deactivated and faulty, as was the ABS; I can only assume a PO did this to hide the faults and pass an MOT test. The other frustration was that the MIL light had been painted over with black nail varnish (!) – lightly removing this from the outside of the cluster (no I didn’t spot it on the test drive) of course revealed the MIL was illuminated. I’m thankful I was able to get codes using my OBDII reader – and the damage could have been worse – 2x separate lambda sensor faults. One traced to *really* poor workmanship on a presumed universal sensor installation: Fixed as (self amalgating tape added to the length of the repair afterward): That was fixed by remaking the wire joints with solder/heat shrink insulation. The other sensor needed to be replaced entirely and then the MIL light could be extinguished; an easy fix for the sake of some time with a soldering iron, and £50 for a new DENSO universal sensor. The VSC/ABS system was easily brought back to life with a trick for resetting zero point calibration using a paper clip that I found somewhere on a USA Lexus forum post – bingo, no more warnings on the dash. The plan for this car will be to give it a complete brakes and suspension renewal, and service everything I can, before making some subtle modifications. Broadly, I want to lower it, give it a slightly louder exhaust note (actually there has already been some work done as the silencer tips are not original to the car), and some nice deep dish wheels. I’ll post up my progress on here, mention any useful part numbers; if anything for my own records. I’m a keen DIY’er so largely I’ll be doing this in the garage/ driveway. First service item was to a drain/refill the ATF. I use a suction/syphon drain and got some Type 4 ATF from Toyota: Coming from BMWs it was great to have a dipstick to work with. Fluid removed was dark, but didn’t smell burned; I think I managed to put about 4 litres of fluid in to the box – definitely I put in more than I removed so I think the box was lower on fluid level than it should have been. I’ve also put a new radiator on the car, as the plastic cores on the old part appeared very brown and mottled – like you could touch them and they’d spring a leak. New part from Ad-Rad.co.uk, delivered next day – made by Koyorad; fitted in under an hour: Next up will be to replace the rocker cover gaskets, as there’s a fair old oil leak from the top of the engine. I’ll post on that when I have the car back from the body shop. I'm hoping this car will be some fun to work on - and broadly speaking a valuable learning experience on a vehicle that isn't German/ a Land Rover! Thanks, John

How do I close a thread? I thought it would be funny, it wasn’t. Sorry everyone.

Pmsl Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Funnily enough, that's what I was trying to do. The salient points are: Vehicle speedos reading high is not a new thing. I'm amazed that the OP was surprised by this as it's been happening for years, but more importantly, it's by design There's nothing wrong with your Lexus speedo. The fact that your Jazz and your Jag appear to be so accurate is really neither here nor there, just unusual. Manufacturers design speedos to read high because it's illegal for them to read low, so the manufacturers err on the side of caution. Life's too short to do sums, I'm off to the pub and I'll have a pint for all the folks in this thread

There are very odd recruitment procedures today Matthew. Sorry you didn't succeed today, but you will have gained a lot from the experience for future use. I've been in sales the majority of my life and my first role aged 22 was selling Austin/Morris, Land Rover and as we were a posh showroom, Aston Martin too. It can be great fun, keep plugging away. Good luck !!

Don't know about the cover but I do know I've had 5 LS's and none have had a radio code, I think most don't.

So many posts to catch up with after a few days away. Can somebody help me with a simple answer: Should I prefer a RWD with 0-60 of > 7 seconds over a FWD that can do it in < 5 seconds. Or a 4WD electric torque monster?

Done. It worked really well, went on easily and looks good. The aerosol works at all angles to.

This has all been covered before on this forum. The extended warranty is not the same as a new car warranty and does require the vehicle to be serviced by Lexus. It is all in the t & c’s.

It is not possible to invalidate a warranty by getting work done yourself/at an independent garage. The only thing that can happen is that the warranty company refuses to cover any non-genuine parts that you have fitted yourself or they refuse to pay out if any subsequent damage is done. For example, if you were to change the radio head unit for an aftermarket one then the warranty company is well within their rights to not cover it if it were to fail. They could also refuse to pay out for blown speakers if it is suspected to be the new head unit that caused them to blow. They can't however refuse to pay out for a failed fuel pump because you changed the stereo because it's got nothing to do with it. As for getting a refund on the warranty then I think that that would be a good idea since the most likely failures are due to wear and tear which aren't covered by the warranty anyway. I did read an article somewhere which rated the RX400h as the most reliable 10 year old car you can buy so £1k on a warranty does seem unnecessary. Mine doesn't have one and I sleep easy at night.

That is cultural change I am battling with in workplace. It is mandatory to work 1 day from home in my company, but I am struggle to stretch any more then that. Some people even get upset when I get my one day WFH. Realistically, in my work I can do 4 days from home and maybe 1 day in the office just to socialise - but that is not socially accepted norm. Equally, if I would work 4 days from home, all the auxiliary positions in cafes, bars, restaurants etc. would be created near my home locally instead of being created in the city center - so by me no travelling to work, 4 less people would have to get up every morning and get to work in central London. Next thing is 24/7 economy.. that would make both economic and environmental sense. Currently we have 2 peaks during the day and we have to build road capacity to meet those peak times, if we would have proper 24h economy, even 16h we would need to build much less peak capacity into the infrastructure. Good start would be to force all companies with 100+ employees (or offices with 100+ desks) to differentiate hours say instead of 9-5, they should make +/-1 shifts for 8-4, 9-5-10-6 and all companies with 1000+ .. +/-2 shifts starting 7,8,9,10,11AM.... maybe even further companies with 10000+ which is rare +/-3 shifts. So instead of massive jam between 8-9 and 5-6, we would have consistent lower traffic starting from 7AM and ending 8PM. Combine that with, 50% WFH and commute can be reduced massively.

Here's another thought. Rather than make cars more efficient, how about making it so that cars travel less miles per year. How about making it possible for more people to work from home? Also has the benefit of easing the need to new road infrastructure.

And there explains the Capitalist system!

I guess BHP is relative. To me 400+ bhp sounds overkill - but I'd love to have it 😉

Back to Honda for me, alternatively Volvo or Kia. Numerous bad experiences with German marques mean I'd never consider a BMW or VAG product again.

One thing that amazes me is the UK has 6% of its land mass occupied/developed, air quality is measured in this 6% of habitation, there will always be mass pollution in such a small developed area, IF and only IF phev and equivalent vehicles are to be the future the lost revenue will be recouped via kWh prices being increased across the board, industry is the main pollutant and cars are a fraction of it, its more environmentally damaging to produce and dispose of any electric cell/battery etc than it is in any combustible engine vehicle BUT the government and car industry feels it must show to be cleaning up its act on a daily discharge basis and NOT on the lifetime of the car itself, it’s nothing more than a marketing ploy to get people to think they’re doing their bit which infact they are doing more irreversible damage to the world as a whole. Daresay elect vehicles will be the future albeit a short one once the factual truth is available......pass this onto the kids as well be wormbate or dust by the time it’s common knowledge 🙄

Hi Phil, I don't remember the rear seats being too much of a challenge on the LS but there's someone right on your doorstep who would do it. I'll PM you the number.

Emissions are far better and easily controlled in a centralised generation location, than scattered across the map. The actions/mileage of the driver of a ZEV has no impact on global warming..

I had four Saabs before Lexus, probably wouldn't have changed if Saabs were still available. Can't think what I'd go for now, I'd need to do a lot of research. Based on limited knowledge, Kia would probably be my first port of call. BMW, Audi and Merc are hated........it's their drivers behaviour, I couldn't fit in with that club !

Sounds about right. Try driving an Audi, its 10% or so! Makes you wonder about all those Audi drivers.....

My two pence. The biggest crooks out there don't even wear masks anymore. Whatever happens the government will extract every penny out of it, all in the name of saving our planet etc..... These smart motorways that government are saying is all about safety? Pull the other one, they wouldn't be spending all that money upgrading to smart motorways in the interest of our safety. Pay per mile will soon be here, and a very nice sideline with a great income will be zero tolerance speeding detection. If they phase out petrol they lose a massive income from fuel duty, so it'll have to go back on, and it will. Electric cars won't be the cheap option everyone thinks it will be. So back on topic, sorry for the rant. I don't think they'll phase out petrol, not while they are making 80% in fuel duty. So I say more than 20 years. And I'll be happy if I'm still around to be proved wrong.

But it helps if you live in Scotland 😜

There was another thread about this in January but for anyone who didn't follow that discussion, it might be worth just recapping what the issue is. Which? says in its review of the "IS hybrid" (ie 300h): "It's a very good car, but we found the Lexus IS emits so much CO (carbon monoxide) in our tests, that it would fail to meet any EU emissions limits set this century." So what does that mean? The carbon monoxide limits for Euro 4 (2005), Euro 5 (2009) and Euro 6 (2014) are all the same at 1 gram per kilometre (g/km). By saying the IS300h would not meet any of these standards it's saying that the IS300h emits more carbon monoxide than 1g/km. It's not clear to me how they reached this conclusion as I haven't been able to find details of how their testing is conducted. However, I did find a website for a specialist emissions testing company called Emissions Analytics. According to their website, their testing uses on-road emissions monitoring equipment in a three and a half hour run. By contrast, Which? until recently seems to have done a 20 minute lab test, though I haven't found any details to absolutely confirm this. So what results did Emissions Analytics find? It classifies its results with a letter of the alphabet. The Lexus IS300h gets the top rating of A++, which corresponds to carbon monoxide emissions of between zero and 0.125 g/km. This compares with the Which? result of at least eight times as much carbon monoxide emitted, or possibly much more. Emissions Analytics publishes its results in a table called EQUA Index. Click here for the webpage of results. Type Lexus into the search box to find the Lexus results. So who can we believe has the more realistic test approach? A company which seems only to specialise in emissions testing, and claims: "We are the leading independent global testing and data specialist for real world emissions."? Or Britain's biggest consumer products testing organisation that assesses everything from washing machines to cars and computers? I think there's a lot to be said for measuring actual emissions from the exhaust pipe in a real-world road test. If I remember rightly, this is how the Volkswagen scandal came about - they did well in the lab, but quite poorly when actual emissions were measured on the road. The IS300h seems to be the other way round - it didn't do well in the short Which? lab test but on a longer real-world test, measuring actual on-road emissions, it got a top rating.

In the Blue corner with his plastic bonnet, we have @tomRCFcarbon in the red corner we have smokey diesel @Linas.P with his ubiquitous IS220d DING DING round ONE @NemesisUK get your popcorn🍿 ready!!!

And what did you except? This was controversial question and it was clear it would explode at some point - "0-60 never bothered me in my life, but I drive IS-F.... cause I liked the looks".. and the all "safe snailing warriors" .

Well researched. Not true. HV system has capacity. City grids also have capacity. Car charging won't present a large load and with a smart grid charging the needs of vehicles along with other demands can be sequenced to balance the load. The issue of 1.5KW kettles all being switched on at the half time whistle of the FA cup presented a far bigger peak voltage grid issue than car chargers. Also not true. We have a generating surplus at present, with electricity producers being paid to switch off generation. An increase in demand is inevitable from a national fleet of electric cars but projections for generation capacity easily meet anticipated demand. Along with more renewable and more efficient renewable generation we will also likely see community battery storage and more efficient houses that require less electricity to run - over two decades the amount of energy it takes to light a household has fallen by over 90%, the amount of energy to cool a building has fallen by 80% demand for electricity even with a national fleet of electric vehicles doesn't increase as much as you think. Of no relevance here. All this tells us is that your building management company (along with most building management companies I am sure), couldn't be bothered to install a bigger circuit breaker into their outdoor fuse box. Building reg's demand that there be enough capacity in your buildings for the demand put upon that building. There will be easily enough capacity in the copper running into your building, what you have currently come up against is not the capacity of those cables, but rather the capacity of your building management company to give a sh*t about your car charging needs...give it 5 years and demand will mean that the market dictates to your building management company that they have to install this stuff for the building to have a continuing institutional investment value...and believe me once the institutional investors demand it - those holding the debt will jump to it! You are massively underestimating the auto industries appetite for change. They may seem late to the party, but they have been quietly pivoting their businesses to change completely and swiftly. Volvo - all electric or hybrid range by next year. VW and Audi all electric/hybrid car range by early 20's. BMW the same. Alongside this the 2% BIK tax rate for zero emissions vehicles comes back in the next 18 months which will see fleet and company drivers move to electric, which equates to about 60% of all cars registered. Once that happens its only a matter of time. My guess is that ICE cars will be specialist purchases by people like us by 2030, let alone 2040.

I picked it up this morning, had to head pretty much straight home due to meetings but I am absolutely loving it! Can't wait to get out in it later. I never normally buy the first example I see but the low owners, good history, condition etc. all checked out so hopefully its a goodun 😎 Wonder how long my first tank of V Power will last 😁

There are several circumstances when the engine will keep running, where to the driver thinks it seems correct for the engine to stop. Typically the system is going through some maintenance/calibration cycle. I've seen reports of it keeping the engine running after descending a hill with a full battery for a few seconds - one theory is the system is removing a small amount of charge from the battery so regen braking works as expected when the brakes are next applied but I've not seen any official documentation to confirm this. It isn't something to worry about, unless the petrol engine fails to shut down for several minutes just let the system do its thing.

If you need the sunroof open to hear he QS exhaust, I’d get down to Specsavers. They do hearing aids these days. 😜

Rubbish. The instance of this type of failure is extremely rare. All surveys show owners very happy with Lexus reliability. People are very quick to complain and the absence of such complaining on the various Lexus forums is testimony to Lexus reliability.

If I recall correctly, the DVD player beneath the seats is just wired up with composite video and audio (yellow and red phono leads). I'd check mine but it's raining. If I'm correct, you should be able to connect anything down there that's standard definition PAL.

All interiors bulbs, and how to replace them, are listed in the owner's manual

Yesterday was good weather wise for car washing (i.e. above freezing) so I thought I'd share my cleaning routine that I follow every 2 or 3 weeks depending on weather. I do about 250 miles a week so this is a clean every 500-750 miles across mixed roads in southern Scotland. The aim of this isn't a super detail but something to keep the worst of the grim and road salt at bay and that can be completed in under an hour when the outside temperature isn't conducive to spending too long on the job! I prefer to do it with my own equipment as the stuff at the supermarket jet wash is rather harsh and can strip wax. A couple of pictures first to show the built up of winter grime. First up a good layer of snow foam to drag off the worst without risking scratching. After giving it 5 minutes to dwell and a light rinse with the pressure washer (nothing too fierce at this stage) about 90% of the dirt has been removed. Next up are the wheels. I give each a spray of cleaner, give it a couple of minutes and then wash off at about 80% pressure. Next up with the main wash. Speed is of the essence so I go with spraying on the wash/wax solution. I then wipe this over using 2 buckets and 2 wash mitts (one for the top and the other the lower parts). Finally the suds are rinsed off at 80% pressure and the windows cleaned. Results: Products used: Pressure washer - Karcher K4 Bog standard buckets, one with a Grit Guard Wash Mitts - Meguiar's Lambs Wool Foam lance - Elite Car Care Foam - Bilt Hamber Auto Foam Wheels - Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel Cleaner Wash - Autoglym Pressure Wash Windscreen - Autoglym Fast Glass Other windows and mirrors - Rain X 2 in 1 I do a good clean in autumn including wax with Armour All Shield that lasts well into winter so the dirt doesn't stick too bad. Inside I apply Gtechniq I1 to rain/snow coming in doesn't soak the seats or carpet. Come late spring the clay bar will come out to remove the ingrained stuff like tar sports that have accumulated over winter and I'll spend a full day pouring over it.

I use BH double speed and it tends to last up to 6 months no problems. Autoglym SRP is a product with polymer based fillers. BH DSW will have no issues adhering to it but is best used on bare paint. As you can imagine the SRP will reduce its durability somewhat to 4 months give or take. There is no real benefit to layering waxes. Slap on 1 coat and it'll see you through 4 months let's say. Slap on another and you'll probably get 6. Classic case of diminishing returns...

Spending hours waxing my Dad's car with Simoniz , hardly able to lift my arms afterwards Talk about "wax on, wax off" .

Yes.

There's an IMO near me. Lovely job

No agitation, just sprayed off with the pressure washer. Occasionally I’ll get the wheel brush out to get into all the corners, perhaps every 4th wash over winter.

Looks great! Good job there. This car cleaning thing becomes a slippery slope of wanting to buy more stuff. My own Karcher K4 arrives tomorrow! Do you agitate the product on the wheels or is that level of cleanliness you’ve achieved just as a result of the BH auto wheel and foam? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Bilt Hamber Double speed wax is good value as you get the applicator and the buffing cloth with it. Plus it's UK made, so helps the economy. Wouldn't say it's far behind the Soft99 stuff in terms of longevity, if at all.

Just to add I use Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller or Bilt Hamber korrosol for the wheels to great effect. Am also trying at present Dodo's 'basics of bling' quick detailer which seems good so far. Have also used Meguiars Shampoo and Gold Class Quick Detailer products (good but expensive) and autoglym Super Resin Polish (so-so). I think I'll be happy once I find a shampoo that doesn't leave spots when you finish and have on the shopping list a Dodo product to try when I run out of Meguiars... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hi ok many thanks for all this will see if I can get out again before I go cutting and joining would like to get off complete will let you know not sure if air pressure stops it pushing in as well

I think it would be amazing to discover that air shocks can be rebuilt. I hope you manage to do this and that you source one OK. Unfortunately the ebay ones tend to be around £130. Maybe if you don't have any success from a member you could try a breakers, pointing out that it doesn't need to be a working unti?